Groundsmaster® 3500-G Rotary Mower

The front and rear cutting decks require different mounting positions. The front cutting deck has 2 mounting positions depending on what height of cut and degree of deck rotation you desire.

1. For heights of cut in the 2 to 7.6 cm (3/4 to 3 inches) range, mount the front carrier frames in the lower, front mounting holes (Figure 11).

   Note: This permits more up travel of the cutting decks relative to the machine when approaching sudden changes in uphill terrain. It does, however, limit the clearance of the chamber to the carrier when cresting sharp, small hills.

   

   Figure 11

   1. Upper, front deck mounting hole
   2. Lower, front deck mounting hole
   3. Rear deck mounting hole

2. For heights of cut in the 6.3 to 10 cm (2-1/2 to 4 inches) range, mount the front carrier frames in the upper, front mounting holes (Figure 11).

   Note: This increases the chamber to carrier clearance due to the higher position of the cutting chamber, but causes the cutting deck to reach its maximum up travel more quickly.

The front and rear cutting decks require different mounting positions. The rear cutting deck has 1 mounting position for proper alignment with the sidewinder under frame.

For all heights of cut, mount the rear cutting deck in the rear mounting holes (Figure 11).

• Fuel tank capacity: 38 L (10 US gallons)

• Recommended Fuel:

  • For best results, use only clean, fresh (less than 30 days old), unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 87 or higher ((R+M)/2 rating method).

  • Ethanol: Gasoline with up to 10% ethanol (gasohol) or 15% MTBE (methyl tertiary butyl ether) by volume is acceptable. Ethanol and MTBE are not the same. Gasoline with 15% ethanol (E15) by volume is not approved for use. Never use gasoline that contains more than 10% ethanol by volume, such as E15 (contains 15% ethanol), E20 (contains 20% ethanol), or E85 (contains up to 85% ethanol). Using unapproved gasoline may cause performance problems and/or engine damage which may not be covered under warranty.

  • Do not use gasoline containing methanol.

  • Do not store fuel either in the fuel tank or fuel containers over the winter unless a fuel stabilizer is used.

  • Do not add oil to gasoline.

Important: Do not use fuel additives other than a fuel stabilizer/conditioner. Do not use fuel stabilizers with an alcohol base such as ethanol, methanol, or isopropanol.

1. Clean the area around the fuel-tank cap (Figure 21).

2. Remove the fuel-tank cap.

3. Fill the tank to the bottom of the filler neck. Do not overfill. Install the cap.

4. To prevent a fire hazard, wipe up any spilled fuel.

   

   Figure 21

   1. Fuel-tank cap

   Danger

   In certain conditions, fuel is extremely flammable and highly explosive. A fire or explosion from fuel can burn you and others and can damage property.

   • Before removing the fuel-tank cap, make sure that the vehicle is positioned on a level surface. Open the fuel-tank cap slowly.

   • Fill the fuel tank outdoors, in an open area, when the engine is cold. Wipe up any fuel that spills.

   • Never fill the fuel tank inside an enclosed trailer.

   • Do not fill the fuel tank completely full. Add fuel to the fuel tank until the level is 6 to 13 mm (1/4 to 1/2 inch) below the bottom of the filler neck. This empty space in the tank allows fuel to expand.

   • Never smoke when handling fuel, and stay away from an open flame or where fuel fumes may be ignited by a spark.

   • Store fuel in an approved container and keep it out of the reach of children. Never buy more than a 30-day supply of fuel.

   • Do not operate without entire exhaust system in place and in proper working condition.

   Danger

   In certain conditions during fueling, static electricity can be released causing a spark which can ignite the fuel vapors. A fire or explosion from fuel can burn you and others and can damage property.

   • Always place the fuel containers on the ground away from your vehicle before filling.

   • Do not fill the fuel containers inside a vehicle or on a truck or trailer bed because interior carpets or plastic truck bed liners may insulate the container and slow the loss of any static charge.

   • When practical, remove gas-powered equipment from the truck or trailer and refuel the equipment with the wheels on the ground.

   • If this is not possible, refuel such equipment on a truck or trailer from a portable container rather than from a fuel dispenser nozzle.

   • If a fuel dispenser nozzle must be used, keep the nozzle in contact with the rim of the fuel tank or container opening at all times until fueling is complete.

Before you start the engine and use the machine, check the oil level in the engine crankcase; refer to Checking the Engine-Oil Level.

Before you start the engine and use the machine, check the cooling system; refer to Checking the Cooling System.

Before you start the engine and use the machine, check the hydraulic system; refer to Checking the Hydraulic System.

1. Drive the machine slowly to a large, open area.

2. Lower the cutting unit(s), shut off the engine, and engage the parking brake.

3. While sitting on the seat, the engine must not start with either the cutting-unit switch engaged or the traction pedal engaged.

   Note: Correct the problem if it is not operating properly.

4. While sitting on the seat, put the traction pedal in NEUTRAL, the parking brake is DISENGAGED, and the cutting unit switch in the OFF position.

   Note: The engine should start. Rise from the seat and slowly press the traction pedal, and the engine should shut off in 1 to 3 seconds. If it does not shut off, there is a malfunction in the interlock system that you should correct before resuming operation.

Note: The machine is equipped with an interlock switch on the parking brake. The engine shuts off when you press the traction pedal with the parking brake engaged.

1. Ensure that the parking brake is engaged and the cutting-unit-drive switch is in the DISENGAGE position.

2. Remove your foot from the traction pedal and ensure that the pedal is in the NEUTRAL position.

3. Move the throttle lever to the 1/2-throttle position.

4. Insert the key into the switch and rotate it to the START position to engage the starter motor.

   Important: To prevent overheating of the starter motor, do not engage the starter for longer than 15 seconds. After 10 seconds of continuous cranking, wait 60 seconds before engaging the starter motor again.

5. Release the key when the engine starts.

   Note: The key automatically moves to the ON/RUN position.

6. When you start the engine for the first time or after overhauling the engine, operate the machine in forward and reverse for 1 to 2 minutes.

   Note: Also, operate the lift lever and cutting-unit-drive switch to ensure that all parts operate properly.

7. Turn the steering wheel to the left and to the right to check the steering response, then shut off the engine to check for oil leaks, loose parts, and any other malfunctions.

Move the throttle control to the IDLE position, move the cutting-unit-drive switch to the DISENGAGE position, and rotate the starter key to the OFF position. Remove the key to prevent accidental starting.

The Standard-Control Module (SCM) is a potted electronic device produced in a 1-size-fits-all configuration. The module uses solid state and mechanical components to monitor and control standard, electrical features required for safe product operation.

The module-monitor input includes neutral, parking brake, PTO, start, backlap, and high temperature. The module energizes outputs including PTO, Starter, and ETR (energize to run) solenoid.

The module is divided into inputs and outputs. Inputs and outputs are identified by green LED indicators mounted on the printed circuit board.

The start-circuit input is energized by 12 VDC. All other inputs are energized when the circuit is closed to ground. Each input has an LED that illuminates when the specific circuit is energized. Use the input LEDs for switch and input-circuit troubleshooting.

Output circuits are energized by an appropriate set of input conditions. The 3 outputs include PTO, ETR, and START. Output LEDs monitor the relay condition, indicating the presence of voltage at 1 of 3 specific output terminals.

Output circuits do not determine output-device integrity, so electrical troubleshooting includes output-LED inspection, conventional device, and wire-harness-integrity testing. Measure the disconnected-component impedance, impedance through the wire harness (disconnect at SCM), or by temporarily ”test energizing” the specific component.

The SCM does not connect to an external computer or handheld device, cannot be programmed again, and does not record intermittent fault troubleshooting data.

The decal on the SCM includes only symbols. The 3 LED output symbols are shown in the output box, while all other LEDs are inputs as shown in Figure 22.

Figure 22

1. Backlap (input)
2. High temperature (input)
3. In seat (input)
4. PTO switch (input)
5. Parking brake—off (input)
6. Neutral position (input)
7. PTO (output)
8. Start (output)
9. ETR (output)
10. Start (input)
11. Power (input)

Here are the logical troubleshooting steps for the SCM device.

1. Determine the output fault that you are trying to resolve (PTO, START, or ETR).

2. Move key switch to the ON position and ensure that the red, power LED illuminates.

3. Move all of the input switches to ensure that all LEDs change state.

4. Position the input devices at the appropriate position to achieve the appropriate output.

   Note: Use the following logic chart to determine the appropriate input condition.

5. Review the following repair options if a specific output LED illuminates.

   • If a specific output LED illuminates without the appropriate output function, check the output harness, connections, and component.

     Note: Repair as required.

   • If a specific output LED does not illuminate, check both fuses.

   • If a specific output LED does not illuminate and the inputs are in the appropriate condition, install a new SCM and determine if the fault disappears.

Each row (across) in the logic chart below identifies input and output requirements for each specific product function. Product functions are listed in the left column. Symbols identify specific circuit condition, including energized to voltage, closed to ground, and open to ground.

• (–) Indicates a circuit closed to ground—LED On

• (O) Indicates a circuit open to ground or de-energized—LED Off

• (+) Indicates an energized circuit (clutch coil, solenoid, or start input)—LED On

• A blank indicates a circuit that is not involved with the logic chart.

To troubleshoot, turn on the key without starting the engine. Identify the specific function that does not work and work across the logic chart. Inspect the condition of each input LED to ensure that it matches the logic chart.

If the input LEDs are correct, check the output LED. If the output LED illuminates but the device is not energized, measure the available voltage at the output device, the continuity of the disconnected device, and the potential voltage on the ground circuit (floating ground).

• Use care when loading or unloading the machine into a trailer or a truck.

• Use a full-width ramp for loading the machine into a trailer or a truck.

• Tie the machine down securely to the trailer.

There are tie downs located at the front and rear sides of the machine (Figure 23).

Note: Use properly-rated DOT-approved straps in 4 corners to tie down the machine.

• 2 on the front of the operator's platform

• Rear tire

Figure 23

1. Tie-down point

Important: In an emergency, you can tow the machine for a short distance. Do not tow the machine at faster than 3 to 4 km/h (2 to 3 mph); otherwise, you may damage the drive system. If you must move the machine a considerable distance, transport it on a truck or trailer.

1. Locate the bypass valve on the pump and rotate it 90° (Figure 24).

   

   Figure 24

   1. Bypass valve

2. Before starting the engine, close the bypass valve by rotating it 90° (1/4 turn).

   Important: Do not start the engine when the valve is open, as this may cause damage.

1. Ensure that the PTO is disengaged.

2. Park the machine on a level surface.

3. Engage the parking brake.

4. Lower the cutting unit(s) if necessary.

5. Shut off the engine and wait for all moving parts to stop.

6. Turn the ignition key to the STOP position and remove it.

7. Allow machine components to cool before performing maintenance.

1. Unlatch and raise the hood.

2. Remove the hairpin cotter securing the hood pivot to the mounting brackets (Figure 26).

   

   Figure 26

   1. Hairpin cotter

3. Slide the hood to the right side, lift the other side, and pull it out of the brackets.

Note: Reverse this procedure to install the hood.

When servicing the cutting decks, use the service latch to prevent injury.

1. Center the cutting deck sidewinder with the traction unit.

2. Raise the cutting decks to the transport position.

3. Engage the parking brake and turn off the machine.

4. Release the latch rod from the front carrier-frame retainer (Figure 27).

   

   Figure 27

   1. Service-latch hook

5. Lift the outside of the front cutting decks and place the latch over the frame pin mounted on the front of the operator's platform (Figure 27).

6. Sit on the operator’s seat and start the machine.

7. Lower the cutting decks to the mow position.

8. Turn off the machine and remove the key.

9. Reverse this procedure to unlatch the cutting decks.

The machine has grease fittings that you must lubricate regularly with No. 2 lithium grease. Also, lubricate the machine immediately after every washing.

The grease fitting locations and quantities are as follows:

• Rear cutting-unit pivot (Figure 28)

  

  Figure 28

• Front cutting-unit pivot (Figure 29)

  

  Figure 29

• 2 sidewinder-cylinder ends (Figure 30)

  

  Figure 30

• Steering pivot (Figure 31)

  

  Figure 31

• 2 rear lift-arm pivots and lift cylinder (Figure 32)

  

  Figure 32

• 2 left, front lift-arm pivots and lift cylinder (Figure 33)

  

  Figure 33

• 2 right, front lift-arm pivots and lift cylinder (Figure 34)

  

  Figure 34

• Neutral-adjustment mechanism (Figure 35)

  

  Figure 35

• Mow/transport slide (Figure 36)

  

  Figure 36

• Belt-tension pivot (Figure 37)

  

  Figure 37

• Steering cylinder (Figure 38).

  

  Figure 38

• 2 (per cutting unit) cutting unit spindle-shaft bearings (Figure 39)

  Note: You can use either fitting, whichever is more accessible. Pump grease into the fitting until a small amount appears at the bottom of the spindle housing (under the deck).

  

  Figure 39

• 2 (per cutting unit) rear roller bearings (Figure 40)

  

  Figure 40

  Note: Ensure that the grease groove in each roller mount aligns with the grease hole in each end of the roller shaft. To help align the groove and hole, there is also an alignment mark on an end of the roller shaft.

  Important: Do not lubricate the Sidewinder cross tube. The bearing blocks are self-lubricated.

Inspect the air cleaner and hoses periodically to maintain maximum engine protection and to ensure maximum service life. Check the air-cleaner body for damage, which could cause an air leak. Replace a damaged air-cleaner body.

Inspect and change the air-cleaner filter as described in the following procedure:

1. Pull the latch outward and rotate the air-cleaner cover counterclockwise.

   

   Figure 41

   1. Air-cleaner cover
   2. Filter

2. Before removing the filter, use low-pressure air (40 psi, clean and dry) to help remove large accumulations of debris packed between the outside of the primary filter and the canister.

   Important: Avoid using high-pressure air which could force dirt through the filter into the intake tract. This cleaning process prevents debris from migrating into the intake when you remove the primary filter.

3. Remove and replace the primary filter.

   Note: Cleaning of the used element is not recommended due to the possibility of damage to the filter media.

4. Inspect the new filter for shipping damage, checking the sealing end of the filter and the body.

   Important: Do not use a damaged filter.

5. Insert the new filter by applying pressure to the outer rim of the element to seat it in the canister.

6. Clean the dirt ejection port located in the removable cover. Remove the rubber outlet valve from the cover, clean the cavity, and replace the outlet valve.

7. Install the cover orienting the rubber, outlet valve in a downward position, between approximately 5 o'clock to 7 o'clock when viewed from the end (Figure 41).

8. Secure the cover latches.

The engine is shipped with oil in the crankcase; however, the oil level must be checked before and after the engine is first started.

Crankcase capacity is approximately 3.3 L (3.5 US qt) with the filter.

Note: Toro Premium Engine oil is available from your distributor in either 15W-40 or 10W-30 viscosity. See the parts catalog for part numbers.

Note: The best time to check the engine oil is when the engine is cool before it has been started for the day. If it has already been run, allow the oil to drain back down to the sump for at least 10 minutes before checking. If the oil level is at or below the Add mark on the dipstick, add oil to bring the oil level to the Full mark. Do not overfill. If the oil level is between the Full and Add marks, additional oil is not required.The engine uses any high-quality 10W-30 detergent oil having the American Petroleum Institute (API) service classification SJ, SK, SL, SM, or higher. Choose a viscosity according to the table in Figure 42.

Figure 42

1. Position the machine on a level surface and open the hood.

2. Remove the dipstick (Figure 43) and wipe it with a clean rag. Insert the dipstick into the tube and make sure that it is seated fully. Remove the dipstick and check the level-of-the-oil.

   

   Figure 43

   1. Dipstick
   2. Filler cap

3. If the oil level is low, remove the filler cap (Figure 44) and add enough oil to raise the level-of-the-oil to the Full mark on the dipstick.

   Note: When adding oil, remove the dipstick to allow proper venting. Pour oil slowly and check the level-of-the-oil often during this process. Do not overfill.

   Important: When adding engine oil or filling oil, there must be clearance between the oil fill device and the oil fill hole in the valve cover as shown in Figure 44. This clearance is necessary to permit venting when filling, which prevents oil from overrunning into the breather.

   

   Figure 44

   1. Note clearance

4. Install the dipstick firmly in place.

5. Install the oil-fill cap and close the hood.

1. Remove the drain plug (Figure 45) and let oil flow into a drain pan. When the oil stops flowing, install the drain plug.

   

   Figure 45

   1. Engine oil drain plug

2. Remove the oil filter (Figure 46). Apply a light coat of clean oil to the new filter seal before installing the filter. Do not overtighten.

   

   Figure 46

   1. Engine oil filter

3. Add oil to the crankcase; refer to Changing the Engine Oil and Filter.

The spark plugs usually last a long time; however, remove and check the plugs whenever the engine malfunctions or every 400 hours. Replace the spark plugs to ensure proper engine performance and reduce exhaust emission level.

The correct spark plug to use is a Champion RC 14YC or NGK BPR 4ES.

1. Clean the area around the spark plugs so foreign matter cannot fall into the cylinder when you remove the spark plug.

2. Pull the wires off the spark plugs and remove the plugs from the cylinder head.

3. Check the condition of the side electrode, center electrode, and center-electrode insulator to ensure that there is no damage.

   Important: A cracked, fouled, dirty, or otherwise malfunctioning spark plug must be replaced. Do not sand blast, scrape, or clean electrodes by using a wire brush because grit may eventually release from the plug and fall into the cylinder. The result is usually a damaged engine.

   

   Figure 47

   1. Air gap at 0.81 mm (0.032 inch)

4. Set the air gap on each plug between the center and side electrodes to 0.81 mm (0.032 inch).

5. Install the correctly-gapped spark plugs and tighten them to 24.5 to 29 N-m (18 to 22 ft-lb). If you cannot use a torque wrench, tighten the plugs firmly.

6. Install the spark-plug wires.

1. Remove the seat from the traction unit to access the fuel pump (Figure 48).

   

   Figure 48

   1. Fuel pump

2. Unplug the wiring-harness connectors from the fuel pump (Figure 49).

3. Remove the fuel pump assembly and the fuel filter from the tank (Figure 49).

4. Remove the clamp that secures the fuel-filter hose to the fuel-pump fitting. Remove the hose from the fitting (Figure 49).

   

   Figure 49

   1. Fuel pump
   2. Hose clamp
   3. Fuel line/fuel filter

5. Insert the new hose clamp onto the new fuel-filter hose.

6. Insert the hose onto the fuel pump and secure the clamp.

7. Insert the assembly into the fuel tank and tighten the cap to 20 to 22 N-m (175 to 200 in-lb).

8. Connect the wires and secure the hose with the hose clamp.

9. Install the seat.

Drain and clean the tank if the fuel system becomes contaminated or if the machine will be stored for an extended period of time. Use clean fuel to flush out the tank.

Inspect the fuel lines and connections for deterioration, damage, or loose connections.

Maintain the battery-electrolyte level properly and keep the top of the battery. If you store the machine in a hot location, the battery will discharge more rapidly than if you store the machine in a cool location.

Maintain the cell level with distilled or demineralized water. Do not fill the cells above the bottom of the split ring inside each cell. Install the filler caps with the vents pointing to the rear (toward the fuel tank).

Keep the top of the battery clean by washing it periodically with a brush dipped in ammonia or a solution of bicarbonate of soda. Flush the top surface with water after cleaning. Do not remove the filler caps while cleaning the battery.

The battery cables must be tight on the terminals to provide good electrical contact.

If the terminals have corrosion, disconnect the cables (the negative (–) cable first) and scrape the clamps and terminals separately. Connect the cables (positive (+) cable first) and coat the terminals with petroleum jelly.

The fuses in machines electrical system are located under console cover.

If the machine stops or has other electrical system issues, check the fuses. Grasp each fuse in turn and remove them 1 at a time, checking if any are blown.

Important: If you need to replace a fuse, always use the same type and amperage-rated fuse as the one you are replacing, otherwise you could damage the electrical system. Refer to the decal next to the fuses for a diagram of each fuse and its amperage.

Note: If a fuse blows frequently, you probably have a short in the electrical system and should have it serviced by a qualified service technician.

The correct air pressure in the tires is 97 to 124 kPa (14 to 18 psi) as shown in Figure 50.

Important: Maintain pressure in all tires to ensure a good quality of cut and proper machine performance.Check the air pressure in all the tires before operating the machine.

Figure 50

Torque the wheel-lug nuts to 61 to 88 N∙m (45 to 65 ft-lb).

If the machine moves when the traction pedal is in the NEUTRAL position, adjust the traction cam.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the cutting units, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key from the ignition switch.

2. Raise a front wheel and a rear wheel off the floor and place support blocks under the frame.

   Warning

   If the machine is not supported adequately, it may accidentally fall, injuring anyone under the machine.

   A front wheel and a rear wheel must be raised off the ground; otherwise, the machine will move during adjustment.

3. Loosen the locknut on the traction adjustment cam (Figure 51).

   

   Figure 51

   1. Traction adjustment cam
   2. Locknut

   Warning

   The engine must be running so that you can make a final adjustment of the traction adjustment cam. Contact with hot or moving parts can result in personal injury.

   Keep your hands, feet, face, and other body parts away from the muffler, other hot parts of the engine, and rotating parts.

4. Start the engine and rotate the cam hex in both directions to determine the mid position of the neutral span.

5. Tighten the locknut securing the adjustment.

6. Shut off the engine.

7. Remove the support blocks and lower the machine to the shop floor. Test drive the machine to ensure that it does not move when the traction pedal is in neutral.

The machine conforms to ANSI standard B71.4-2012 standard when 22.6 kg (50 lb) of calcium-chloride ballast is added to the rear wheel.

Important: If a puncture occurs in a tire containing calcium chloride, remove the machine from the turf as quickly as possible. Immediately soak the affected area with water to prevent possible damage to the turf.

Clean any debris off of the radiator (Figure 52).

Figure 52

1. Radiator

Clean the radiator hourly if conditions are extremely dusty and dirty; refer to Cleaning the Cooling System.

The cooling system is filled with a 50/50 solution of water and permanent ethylene glycol anti-freeze. Check the coolant level at the beginning of each day before starting the engine.

The capacity of the cooling system is approximately 5.7 L (6 US qt).

1. Check the coolant level in the expansion tank (Figure 53).

   Note: With a cold engine, the coolant level should be approximately midway between the marks on the side of the tank.

   

   Figure 53

   1. Expansion tank

2. If the coolant level is low, remove the expansion-tank cap and replenish the system.

   Note: Do not overfill.

3. Install the expansion-tank cap.

1. Turn the engine off and raise the hood.

2. Clean the engine area thoroughly of all debris.

3. With compressed air, start from the front of the radiator and blow the debris out toward the back.

4. Clean the radiator from the back side and blow toward the front.

   Note: Repeat the procedure several times until you remove all chaff and debris.

   Important: Cleaning the radiator with water promotes premature corrosion damage to components and compacts debris.

   

   Figure 54

   1. Radiator

5. Close and latch the hood.

1. Loosen the set screw securing the knob to the parking-brake lever (Figure 55).

   

   Figure 55

   1. Knob
   2. Set screw
   3. Parking-brake lever

2. Torque the knob to 41 to 68 N∙m (30 to 40 in-lb) to actuate the lever.

3. Tighten the set screw.

1. Position the throttle lever rearward so that it stops against the control-panel slot.

2. Loosen the throttle-cable connector on the injection-pump-lever arm (Figure 58).

   

   Figure 58

   1. Injection-pump-lever arm

3. Hold the injection-pump-lever arm against the low-idle stop and tighten the cable connector.

4. Loosen the screws securing the throttle control to the control panel.

5. Push the throttle-control lever completely forward.

6. Slide the stop plate until it contacts the throttle lever and tighten the screws securing the throttle control to the control panel.

7. If the throttle does not stay in position during operation, torque the locknut, used to set the friction device on the throttle lever, to 5 to 6 N∙m (40 to 55 in-lb).

   Note: The maximum force required to operate the throttle lever should be 27 N∙m (20 in-lb).

1. Perform the pre-maintenance procedure; refer to Preparing the Machine for Maintenance.

2. Clean the area around the filler neck and hydraulic-tank cap (Figure 59).

   

   Figure 59

   1. Hydraulic-tank cap

3. Remove the hydraulic-tank cap (Figure 59).

4. Remove the dipstick from the filler neck and wipe it with a clean rag.

5. Insert the dipstick into the filler neck, then remove it and check the fluid level.

   Note: The fluid level should be within 6 mm (1/4 inch) of the mark on the dipstick.

6. If the level is low, add the appropriate fluid to raise the level to the FULL mark.

7. Install the dipstick and cap onto the filler neck.

Use a genuine Toro replacement filter, Part No. 86-3010.

Important: Using any other filter may void the warranty on some components.

1. Perform the pre-maintenance procedure; refer to Preparing the Machine for Maintenance.

2. Pinch off the hose to the filter-mounting plate.

3. Clean around the filter-mounting area, place a drain pan under the filter, and remove the filter (Figure 60).

   

   Figure 60

   1. Hydraulic filter

4. Lubricate the new filter gasket and fill the filter with hydraulic fluid.

5. Ensure that the filter mounting area is clean and screw the filter on until the gasket contacts the mounting plate; then tighten the filter 1/2 turn.

6. Release the hose to the filter-mounting plate.

7. Start the engine and let it run for approximately 2 minutes to purge air from the system.

8. Shut off the engine and check for leaks.

If the fluid becomes contaminated, contact your local Toro distributor to flush the system. Contaminated fluid looks milky or black.

1. Turn the engine off and raise the hood.

2. Disconnect the hydraulic line or remove the hydraulic filter and let the hydraulic fluid flow into a drain pan (Figure 60 and Figure 61).

   

   Figure 61

   1. Hydraulic line

3. Install the hydraulic line when the hydraulic fluid stops draining (Figure 61).

4. Fill the reservoir (Figure 62) with approximately 13.2 L (3.5 US gallons) of hydraulic fluid; refer to Checking the Hydraulic System.

   Important: Use only the hydraulic fluids specified. Other fluids could damage the system.

   

   Figure 62

   1. Hydraulic-tank cap

5. Install the reservoir cap.

6. Start the engine.

7. Use all the hydraulic controls to distribute the hydraulic fluid throughout the system, check for leaks, then shut off the engine.

8. Check the fluid level and add enough to raise the level to the FULL mark on the dipstick.

   Note: Do not overfill.

Check the hydraulic lines and hoses for leaks, kinked lines, loose mounting supports, wear, loose fittings, weather deterioration, and chemical deterioration. Make all necessary repairs before operating the machine.

1. Perform the pre-maintenance procedure; refer to Preparing the Machine for Maintenance.

2. Remove the hydraulic-motor-mounting screws and disconnect and remove the hydraulic motor from the deck (Figure 63).

   Important: Cover the top of the spindle to prevent contamination.

   

   Figure 63

   1. Motor-mounting screws

3. Remove the lynch pin or retaining nut securing the deck carrier frame to the lift-arm-pivot pin (Figure 64).

   

   Figure 64

   1. Lynch pin
   2. Lift-arm-pivot pin

4. Roll the cutting deck away from the traction unit.

1. Perform the pre-maintenance procedure; refer to Preparing the Machine for Maintenance.

2. Move the cutting deck into position in front of the traction unit.

3. Slide the deck-carrier frame onto the lift-arm-pivot pin and secure it with the lynch pin or retaining nut (Figure 64).

4. Using the hydraulic-motor-mounting screws, install the hydraulic motor to the deck (Figure 63).

   Note: Ensure that the O-ring is properly positioned and not damaged.

5. Grease the spindle.

The rotary deck comes from the factory preset at 5 cm (2 inches) height-of-cut and blade rake of 7.9 mm (0.31 inch). The left and right heights of cut are also preset to within ± 0.7 mm (0.03 inch) of the other.

The cutting deck is designed to withstand blade impacts without deforming the chamber. If the blade strikes a solid object, inspect the blade for damage and the blade plane for accuracy.

Inspect the front roller for wear, excess wobble, or binding. Service or replace the roller or components if any of these conditions exist.