TimeCutter® SS 4225 or MX 5025 Riding Mower

• For best results, use only clean, fresh (less than 30 days old), unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 87 or higher ((R+M)/2 rating method).

• Ethanol: Gasoline with up to 10% ethanol (gasohol) or 15% MTBE (methyl tertiary butyl ether) by volume is acceptable. Ethanol and MTBE are not the same. Gasoline with 15% ethanol (E15) by volume is not approved for use. Never use gasoline that contains more than 10% ethanol by volume, such as E15 (contains 15% ethanol), E20 (contains 20% ethanol), or E85 (contains up to 85% ethanol). Using unapproved gasoline may cause performance problems and/or engine damage which may not be covered under warranty.

• Do not use gasoline containing methanol.

• Do not store fuel either in the fuel tank or fuel containers over the winter unless you use a fuel stabilizer.

• Do not add oil to gasoline.

Use a fuel stabilizer/conditioner in the machine to provide the following benefits:

• Keeps fuel fresh during storage of 90 days or less (drain the fuel tank when storing the machine for more than 90 days)

• Cleans the engine while it runs

• Eliminates gum-like varnish buildup in the fuel system, which causes hard starting

  Important: Do not use fuel additives containing methanol or ethanol.

  Add the correct amount of fuel stabilizer/conditioner to the fuel.

  Note: A fuel stabilizer/conditioner is most effective when mixed with fresh fuel. To minimize the chance of varnish deposits in the fuel system, use fuel stabilizer at all times.

1. Park the machine on a level surface.

2. Engage the parking brake.

3. Shut off the engine and remove the key.

4. Clean around the fuel-tank cap.

5. Fill the fuel tank to the bottom of the filler neck (Figure 7).

   Note: Do not fill the fuel tank completely full. The empty space in the tank allows the fuel to expand.

   

   Figure 7

The safety-interlock system is designed to prevent the engine from starting unless:

• The blade-control switch (PTO) is disengaged.

• The motion-control levers are in the PARK position.

The safety-interlock system also is designed to shut off the engine whenever the control levers are out of the PARK position and you rise from the seat.

Test the safety-interlock system before you use the machine each time. If the safety system does not operate as described below, have an Authorized Service Dealer repair the safety system immediately.

1. Sit on the seat, move the motion-control levers in the PARK position, and move the blade-control switch to the ON position. Try starting the engine; the engine should not crank.

2. Sit on the seat and move the blade-control switch to the OFF position. Move either motion-control lever to the center, unlocked position. Try starting the engine; the engine should not crank. Repeat with the other motion-control lever.

3. Sit on the seat, move the blade-control switch to the OFF position, and lock the motion-control levers in the PARK position. Start the engine. While the engine is running, engage the blade-control switch, and rise slightly from the seat; the engine should shut off.

4. Sit on the seat, move the blade-control switch to the OFF position, and lock the motion-control levers in the PARK position. Start the engine. While the engine is running, move the motion-control levers to the center, unlocked position, engage the blade-control switch, and rise slightly from the seat; the engine should shut off.

You can adjust the motion-control levers higher or lower for maximum comfort (Figure 9).

Figure 9

You can adjust the motion-control levers forward or rearward for your comfort.

1. Loosen the upper bolt holding the control lever to the control-arm shaft.

2. Loosen the lower bolt just enough to pivot the control lever forward or rearward (Figure 9).

3. Tighten both bolts to secure the control lever in the new position.

4. Repeat the adjustment for the other control lever.

Figure 12

Note: Always engage the blades with the throttle in the FAST position (Figure 13).

Figure 13

Note: Always use caution when backing up and turning.

1. Move the levers to the center, unlocked position.

2. To go forward, slowly push the motion-control levers forward (Figure 19).

   

   Figure 19

1. Move the levers to the center, unlocked position.

2. To go backward, slowly pull the motion-control levers rearward (Figure 20).

   

   Figure 20

The Smart Speed ^TM Control-System lever, located below the operating position (Figure 21), gives the operator a choice to drive the machine at 3 ground speed ranges—trim, tow, and mow.

Figure 21

1. Smart-speed lever

To change speeds, do the following:

1. Move the motion-control levers to neutral and outward to the PARK position.

2. Disengage the blade-control switch.

3. Adjust the lever to the desired position.

The following are only recommendations for use. Adjustments vary by grass type, moisture content, and the height of the grass.

Trim

This is the lowest speed. The suggested uses for this speed are as follows:

• Parking

• Heavy, wet grass mowing conditions

• Training

• Trimming grass

Tow

This is the medium speed. The suggested uses for this speed are as follows:

• Bagging

• Mulching

• Towing attachments

Mow

This is the fastest speed. The suggested uses for this speed are as follows:

• Normal mowing

• Moving the machine

For best mowing and maximum air circulation, operate the engine at the FAST position. Air is required to thoroughly cut grass clippings, so do not set the height-of-cut so low as to totally surround the mower deck in uncut grass. Always try to have 1 side of the mower deck free from uncut grass, which allows air to be drawn into the mower deck.

Cut grass slightly longer than normal to ensure that the cutting height of the mower deck does not scalp any uneven ground. However, the cutting height used in the past is generally the best one to use. When cutting grass longer than 15 cm (6 inches) tall, you may want to cut the lawn twice to ensure an acceptable quality of cut.

It is best to cut only about a third of the grass blade. Cutting more than that is not recommended unless grass is sparse, or it is late fall when grass grows more slowly.

Alternate the mowing direction to keep the grass standing straight. This also helps disperse clippings, which enhances decomposition and fertilization.

Grass grows at different rates at different times of the year. To maintain the same cutting height, mow more often in early spring. As the grass growth rate slows in mid summer, mow less frequently. If you cannot mow for an extended period, first mow at a high cutting height, then mow again 2 days later at a lower height setting.

To improve cut quality, use a slower ground speed in certain conditions.

When mowing uneven turf, raise the cutting height to avoid scalping the turf.

If you must stop the forward motion of the machine while mowing, a clump of grass clippings may drop onto your lawn. To avoid this, move onto a previously cut area with the blades engaged or you can disengage the mower deck while moving forward.

Clean clippings and dirt from the underside of the mower deck after each use. If grass and dirt build up inside the mower deck, cutting quality will eventually become unsatisfactory.

Maintain a sharp blade throughout the cutting season because a sharp blade cuts cleanly without tearing or shredding the grass blades. Tearing and shredding turns grass brown at the edges, which slows growth and increases the chance of disease. Check the mower blades after each use for sharpness, and for any wear or damage. File down any nicks and sharpen the blades as necessary. If a blade is damaged or worn, replace it immediately with a genuine Toro replacement blade.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Locate the bypass levers on the frame on both sides of the engine.

4. Move the bypass levers forward through the key hole and down to lock them in place (Figure 25).

   Note: Do this for each lever.

5. Turn the ignition key on and disengage the parking brake.

   Note: Do not start the machine.

   

   Figure 25

   1. Bypass-lever locations
   2. Lever position for operating the machine
   3. Lever position for pushing the machine

6. When finished, ensure that the key has been returned to the STOP position to avoid draining the battery charge.

Note: If the machine fails to move, the electric brake may still be engaged. You can release the electric brake manually if necessary; refer to Releasing the Electric Brake.

Move the bypass levers rearward through the keyhole and down to lock them in place as shown in Figure 25.

Note: Do this for each lever.

1. If using a trailer, connect it to the towing vehicle and connect the safety chains.

2. If applicable, connect the trailer brakes and lights.

3. Lower the ramp, ensuring that the angle between the ramp and the ground does not exceed 15 degrees (Figure 26).

4. Back the machine up the ramp (Figure 27).

   

   Figure 27

   1. Back the machine up the ramp.
   2. Drive the machine forward down the ramp.

5. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and engage the parking brake.

6. Tie down the machine near the front caster wheels and the rear bumper with straps, chains, cable, or ropes (Figure 28). Refer to local regulations for tie-down requirements.

   

   Figure 28

   1. Tie-down loops

1. Lower the ramp, ensuring that the angle between the ramp and the ground does not exceed 15 degrees (Figure 26).

2. Drive the machine forward down the ramp (Figure 27).

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Clean around the air-cleaner cover to prevent dirt from getting into the engine and causing damage.

4. Loosen the hose clamp and remove the paper element (Figure 31).

   

   Figure 31

   1. Cover
   2. Paper element
   3. Hose clamp

1. Clean the paper element by tapping it gently to remove dust.

   Note: If it is very dirty, replace the paper element with a new one.

2. Inspect the element for tears, an oily film, or damage to the rubber seal.

3. Replace the paper element if it is damaged.

   Important: Do not clean the paper filter.

Oil Type: Detergent oil (API service SF, SG, SH, SJ, or SL)

Crankcase Capacity: 1.8 L (61 fl oz); without filter; 2.1 L (70 fl oz) with filter

Viscosity: See the table below.

Figure 32

Note: Check the oil when the engine is cold.

Important: If you overfill or underfill the engine crankcase with oil and run the engine, you may damage the engine.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

   Note: Ensure that the engine is cool so that the oil has had time to drain into the sump.

3. To keep dirt, grass clippings, etc., out of the engine, clean the area around the oil-fill cap and dipstick before removing it (Figure 33).

Figure 33

1. Park the machine so that the drain side is slightly lower than the opposite side to ensure that the oil drains completely.

2. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO) and engage the parking brake.

3. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

4. Drain the oil from the engine (Figure 34).

   

   Figure 34

5. Slowly pour approximately 80% of the specified oil into the filler tube and slowly add the additional oil to bring it to the Full mark (Figure 35).

   

   Figure 35

6. Dispose of the used oil at a recycling center.

1. Drain the oil from the engine; refer to Changing the Engine Oil.

2. Change the engine-oil filter (Figure 36).

   

   Figure 36

   Note: Ensure that the oil-filter gasket touches the engine, and then turn the oil filter an extra 3/4 turn.

3. Fill the crankcase with the proper type of new oil (Figure 35).

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Clean the area around the base of the plug to keep dirt and debris out of the engine.

4. Remove the spark plug (Figure 37).

   

   Figure 37

Important: Do not clean the spark plug(s). Always replace the spark plug(s) when it has a black coating, worn electrodes, an oily film, or cracks.

If you see light brown or gray on the insulator, the engine is operating properly. A black coating on the insulator usually means the air cleaner is dirty.

Set the gap to 0.75 mm (0.03 inch).

Figure 38

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Raise the seat to access the battery.

4. Disconnect the negative (black) ground cable from the battery post (Figure 41).

   Note: Retain all fasteners.

   Warning

   Incorrectly removing the cables from battery could damage the machine and cables, causing sparks. Sparks can cause the battery gasses to explode, resulting in personal injury.

   • Always disconnect the negative (black) battery cable before disconnecting the positive (red) cable.

   • Always connect the positive (red) battery cable before connecting the negative (black) cable.

5. Slide the rubber cover off the positive (red) cable.

6. Disconnect the positive (red) cable from the battery post (Figure 41).

   Note: Retain all fasteners.

7. Remove the battery hold-down (Figure 41), and lift the battery from the battery tray.

   

   Figure 41

   1. Battery
   2. Positive (+) battery post
   3. Bolt, washer, and nut
   4. Terminal boot
   5. Negative (–) battery post
   6. Wing nut, washer, and bolt
   7. Battery hold-down

1. Remove the battery from the chassis; refer to Removing the Battery.

2. Charge the battery for a minimum of 1 hour at 6 to 10 A.

   Note: Do not overcharge the battery.

3. When the battery is fully charged, unplug the charger from the electrical outlet, then disconnect the charger leads from the battery posts (Figure 42).

   

   Figure 42

   1. Positive (+) battery post
   2. Negative (–) battery post
   3. Red (+) charger lead
   4. Black (–) charger lead

1. Position the battery in the tray (Figure 41).

2. Using the fasteners previously removed, install the positive (red) battery cable to the positive (+) battery terminal.

3. Using the fasteners previously removed, install the negative battery cable to the negative (-) battery terminal.

4. Slide the red terminal boot onto the positive (red) battery post.

5. Secure the battery with the hold-down (Figure 41).

6. Lower the seat.

The signs of a worn belt include squealing while the belt is rotating, blades slipping while cutting grass, and frayed edges, burn marks, and cracks on the belt. Replace the mower belt if any of these conditions are evident.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Set the height-of-cut at the lowest cutting position of 38 mm (1-1/2 inches).

4. Remove the pulley covers (Figure 46).

   

   Figure 46

   1. Cover
   2. Screw

5. Using a spring-removal tool, (Toro Part No. 92-5771), remove the idler spring from the deck hook to remove tension on the idler pulley, and roll the belt off the pulleys (Figure 47 or Figure 48).

   

   Figure 47

   Mower Decks with 2 Blades

   1. Idler pulley
   2. Mower belt
   3. Outside pulley
   4. Spring
   5. Engine pulley
   6. Spring-removal tool
   

   Figure 48

   Mower Decks with 3 Blades

   1. Idler pulley
   2. Mower belt
   3. Outside pulley
   4. Spring
   5. Engine pulley
   6. Spring-removal tool

6. Route the new belt around the engine pulley and mower pulleys (Figure 47 or Figure 48).

7. Using a spring-removal tool, install the idler spring over the deck hook, and place tension on the idler pulley and mower belt (Figure 47 or Figure 48).

8. Install the pulley covers.

The signs of a worn belt include squealing while the belt is rotating, blades slipping while cutting grass, and frayed edges, burn marks, and cracks on the belt. Replace the mower belt if any of these conditions are evident.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Set the height-of-cut at the lowest cutting position of 38 mm (1-1/2 inches).

4. Remove the pulley covers (Figure 49).

   

   Figure 49

   1. Cover
   2. Screw

5. Using a spring-removal tool, (Toro Part No. 92-5771), remove the idler spring from the deck hook to remove tension on the idler pulley, and roll the belt off the pulleys (Figure 50 and Figure 51).

   

   Figure 50

   Mower Decks with 2 Blades

   1. Idler pulley
   2. Mower belt
   3. Outside pulley
   4. Spring
   5. Engine pulley
   6. Spring-removal tool
   

   Figure 51

   Mower Decks with 3 Blades

   1. Idler pulley
   2. Mower belt
   3. Outside pulley
   4. Spring
   5. Engine pulley
   6. Spring-removal tool

6. Route the new belt around the engine pulley and mower pulleys (Figure 50 or Figure 51).

7. Using a spring-removal tool, install the idler spring over the deck hook, and place tension on the idler pulley and mower belt (Figure 50 or Figure 51).

8. Install the pulley covers.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and disconnect the spark-plug wires from the spark plugs.

1. Inspect the cutting edges (Figure 52).

2. If the edges are not sharp or have nicks, remove and sharpen the blade; refer to Sharpening the Blades.

3. Inspect the blades, especially in the curved area.

4. If you notice any cracks, wear, or a slot forming in this area, immediately install a new blade (Figure 52).

   

   Figure 52

   1. Cutting edge
   2. Curved area
   3. Wear/slot forming
   4. Crack

Note: The machine must be on a level surface for the following procedure.

1. Raise the mower deck to the highest height-of-cut position.

2. While wearing thickly padded gloves, or other adequate hand protection, slowly rotate the blade into a position that allows you to measure the distance between the cutting edge and the level surface the machine is on (Figure 53).

   

   Figure 53

   1. Deck
   2. Spindle housing
   3. Blade

3. Measure from the tip of the blade to the flat surface (Figure 54).

   

   Figure 54

   1. Blade (in position for measuring)
   2. Level surface
   3. Measured distance between blade and the surface (A)

4. Rotate the same blade 180 degrees so that the opposing cutting edge is now in the same position (Figure 55).

   

   Figure 55

   1. Blade (side previously measured)
   2. Measurement (position used previously)
   3. Opposing side of blade being moved into measurement position

5. Measure from the tip of the blade to the flat surface (Figure 56).

   Note: The variance should be no more than 3 mm (1/8 inch).

   

   Figure 56

   1. Opposite blade edge (in position for measuring)
   2. Level surface
   3. Second measured distance between blade and surface (B)

   1. If the difference between A and B is greater than 3 mm (1/8 inch), replace the blade with a new blade; refer to Removing the Blades and Installing the Blades.

      Note: If a bent blade is replaced with a new blade, and the dimension obtained continues to exceed 3 mm (1/8 inch), the blade spindle could be bent. Contact an Authorized Service Dealer for service.

   2. If the variance is within constraints, move to the next blade.

6. Repeat this procedure on each blade.

Replace the blades if they hit a solid object, or if the blade is out of balance or bent.

1. Hold the blade end using a rag or thickly padded glove.

2. Remove the blade bolt, curved washer, and blade from the spindle shaft (Figure 57).

   

   Figure 57

   1. Sail area of the blade
   2. Blade
   3. Curved washer
   4. Blade bolt

1. Use a file to sharpen the cutting edge at both ends of the blade (Figure 58).

   Note: Maintain the original angle.

   Note: The blade retains its balance if the same amount of material is removed from both cutting edges.

   

   Figure 58

   1. Sharpen at original angle.

2. Check the balance of the blade by putting it on a blade balancer (Figure 59).

   Note: If the blade stays in a horizontal position, the blade is balanced and can be used.

   Note: If the blade is not balanced, file some metal off the end of the sail area only (Figure 58).

   

   Figure 59

   1. Blade
   2. Balancer

3. Repeat this procedure until the blade is balanced.

1. Install the blade onto the spindle shaft (Figure 57).

   Important: The curved part of the blade must be pointing upward toward the inside of the mower to ensure proper cutting.

2. Install the curved washer (cupped side toward the blade) and the blade bolt (Figure 57).

3. Torque the blade bolt to 47 to 88 N∙m (35 to 65 ft-lb).

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Set the height-of-cut lever to the middle position.

4. Carefully rotate the blades so that they are all side to side (Figure 60 and Figure 61).

   

   Figure 60

   Mower Decks with 2 Blades

   1. Blades side to side
   2. Sail area of the blade
   3. Outside cutting edges
   4. Measure from the tip of the blade to the flat surface here.
   

   Figure 61

   Mower Decks with 3 Blades

   1. Blades side to side
   2. Sail area of the blade
   3. Outside cutting edges
   4. Measure from the tip of the blade to the flat surface here.

5. Measure between the outside cutting edges and the flat surface (Figure 60 and Figure 61).

   Note: If both measurements are not within 5 mm (3/16 inch), an adjustment is required; continue with this procedure.

6. Move to the left side of the machine.

7. Loosen the side locking nut.

8. Raise or lower the left side of the mower deck by rotating the rear nut (Figure 62).

   Note: Rotate the rear nut clockwise to raise the mower deck; rotate the rear nut counter-clockwise to lower the mower deck (Figure 62).

   

   Figure 62

   1. Hanger bracket
   2. Side locking nut
   3. Rear nut

9. Check the side-to-side adjustments again. Repeat this procedure until the measurements are correct.

10. Continue leveling the mower deck by checking the front-to-rear blade slope; refer to Adjusting the Front-to-Rear Blade Slope.

Check the front-to-rear blade level any time you install the mower. If the front of the mower is more than 7.9 mm (5/16 inch) lower than the rear of the mower, adjust the blade level using the following instructions:

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Set the height-of-cut lever to the middle position.

   Note: Check and adjust the side-to-side blade level if you have not checked the setting; refer to Leveling from Side to Side.

4. Carefully rotate the blades so they are facing front to rear (Figure 63 and Figure 64).

   

   Figure 63

   Mower Decks with 2 Blades

   1. Blades front to rear
   2. Measure from the tip of the blade to the flat surface here.
   

   Figure 64

   Mower Decks with 3 Blades

   1. Blades front to rear
   2. Outside cutting edges
   3. Measure from the tip of the blade to the flat surface here.

5. Measure from the tip of the front blade to the flat surface, and the tip of the rear blade to the flat surface (Figure 63 and Figure 64).

   Note: If the front blade tip is not 1.6 to 7.9 mm (1/16 to 5/16 inch) lower than the rear blade tip, adjust the front locknut.

6. To adjust the front-to-rear blade slope, rotate the adjustment nut in the front of the mower (Figure 65).

   

   Figure 65

   1. Adjusting rod
   2. Adjusting block
   3. Locknut

7. To raise the front of the mower, tighten the adjustment nut.

8. To lower the front of the mower, loosen the adjustment nut.

9. After adjustment, check the front-to-rear slope again, continue adjusting the nut until the front blade tip is 1.6 to 7.9 mm (1/16 to 5/16 inch) lower than the rear blade tip (Figure 63 and Figure 64).

10. When the front-to-rear blade slope is correct check the side-to-side level of the mower again, refer to Leveling from Side to Side.

1. Remove the nut (3/8 inch) from the rod under the mower (Figure 68).

   

   Figure 68

   1. Mower deck
   2. Grass deflector
   3. Grass-deflector bracket
   4. Rod
   5. Spring
   6. Nut (3/8 inch)
   7. Short standoff

2. Slide the rod out of the short stand-off, spring, and grass deflector (Figure 68).

3. Remove the damaged or worn grass deflector.

4. Replace the grass deflector (Figure 68).

5. Slide the rod, straight end, through the rear grass deflector bracket.

6. Place the spring on the rod, with end wires down, and between the grass deflector brackets.

7. Slide the rod through the second grass-deflector bracket (Figure 68).

8. Insert the rod at the front of the grass deflector into the short standoff on the deck.

9. Secure the rear end of the rod into the mower with a nut (3/8 inch) as shown in Figure 68.

   Important: The grass deflector must be spring-loaded in the down position. Lift the deflector up to test that it snaps into the full-down position.

1. Disengage the spring from the notch in the deflector bracket and slide the rod out of the welded deck brackets, spring, and discharge deflector (Figure 69).

   

   Figure 69

   1. Rod
   2. Spring
   3. Deflector
   4. Deck brackets
   5. Spring installed over the rod

2. Remove the damaged or worn discharge deflector.

3. Position the new discharge deflector with the bracket ends between the welded brackets on the deck as shown in Figure 70.

4. Install the spring onto the straight end of the rod.

5. Position the spring on the rod as shown in Figure 67 so that the shorter spring end comes from under the rod before the bend and going over the rod as it returns from the bend.

6. Lift the loop end of the spring and place it into the notch on the deflector bracket (Figure 70).

   

   Figure 70

   1. Rod and spring assembly installed
   2. Loop end of the spring installed into the notch in the deflector bracket
   3. Rod, short end, moved behind the mower bracket
   4. Short end, retained by mower bracket.

7. Secure the rod and spring assembly by twisting it so that the short end of the rod is behind the front bracket welded to the deck (Figure 70).

   Important: The grass deflector must be spring loaded in the down position. Lift the deflector up to test that it snaps to the full down position.