Maintenance
Note: Determine the left and right sides of the machine from the normal operating position.
Recommended Maintenance Schedule(s)
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
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After the first 8 hours |
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After the first 50 hours |
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Before each use or daily |
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Every 25 hours |
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Every 40 hours |
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Every 100 hours |
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Every 200 hours |
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Every 250 hours |
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Every 400 hours |
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Every 500 hours |
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Every 1,500 hours |
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Yearly or before storage |
|
Important: Refer to your Engine Operator's Manual for additional maintenance procedures.
Caution
If you leave the key in the key switch, someone could accidently start the engine and seriously injure you or other bystanders.
Remove the key from the key switch and disconnect the wires from the spark plugs before you do any maintenance. Set the wires aside so that they do not accidentally contact the spark plugs.
Pre-Maintenance Procedures
Important: The fasteners on the covers of this machine are designed to remain on the cover after removal. Loosen all fasteners on each cover a few turns so that the cover is loose but still attached, then go back and loosen them until the cover comes free. This prevents you from accidentally stripping the bolts free of the retainers.
Removing the Cover Plate
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake (if applicable), and lower the hydraulic lift.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
Warning
There is a belt under the cover that is moving when the machine is running and can catch fingers, hands, loose hair, and clothing, causing serious injury, amputation, or death.
Always shut off the engine and wait for all moving parts to stop before removing the cover.
-
Loosen the bolt at the rear of the cover plate.
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Loosen the 3 bolts securing the cover plate to the frame sequentially until the cover is loose (Figure 21).
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Pull up the rear of the cover plate until it clears the engine and then pull it off over the bolt heads and off the machine.
-
To install the cover plate before operating the machine, slide the plate into place and secure it with the 3 bolts you loosened previously (Figure 21).
Removing the Bottom Shield
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake (if applicable), and lower the hydraulic lift.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Loosen the 2 bolts securing the bottom shield sequentially until the shield is free (Figure 22).
-
Pull the shield back and out of the machine.
-
To install the shield before operating the machine, slide the bottom shield into the machine so that it rests on all 4 tabs and secure it with the 2 bolts you loosened previously (Figure 22).
Note: You may need to lift up on the bottom shield to ensure that it rests on the front tabs.
Lubrication
Greasing the Machine
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Before each use or daily |
|
Grease Type: General-purpose grease.
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the hydraulic lift.
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Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Clean the grease fittings with a rag.
-
Connect a grease gun to each fitting (Figure 23 through Figure 26).
-
Pump grease into the fittings until grease begins to ooze out of the bearings (approximately 3 pumps).
-
Wipe up any excess grease.
Greasing the Trencher Housing
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Every 40 hours |
|
Grease Type: General-purpose grease.
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the hydraulic lift.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Clean the trencher housing grease fitting with a rag and connect a grease gun to it (Figure 27).
-
Pump grease into the fitting until grease comes out of the grease valve located next to the fitting.
-
Wipe up any excess grease.
Engine Maintenance
Servicing the Air Cleaner
Models 22972 and 22973
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Every 25 hours |
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Every 100 hours |
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Every 200 hours |
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Inspect the foam and paper elements and replace them if they are damaged or excessively dirty.
Important: Do not oil the foam or paper element.
Removing the Foam and Paper Elements
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the hydraulic lift.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Clean around the air cleaner to prevent dirt from getting into the engine and causing damage (Figure 28).
-
Loosen the cover knobs and remove the air-cleaner cover (Figure 28).
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Loosen the hose clamp and remove the air-cleaner assembly (Figure 28).
-
Carefully pull the foam element off the paper element (Figure 28).
Cleaning the Foam Air-Cleaner Element
-
Wash the foam element in liquid soap and warm water. When the element is clean, rinse it thoroughly.
-
Dry the element by squeezing it in a clean cloth.
Important: Replace the foam element if it is torn or worn.
Servicing the Paper Air-Cleaner Element
-
Clean the paper element by tapping it gently to remove dust. If it is very dirty, replace the paper element (Figure 28).
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Inspect the element for tears, an oily film, or damage to the rubber seal.
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Replace the paper element if it is damaged.
Important: Do not clean the paper filter.
Installing the Foam and Paper Air-Cleaner Elements
Important: To prevent engine damage, always operate the engine with the complete foam and paper air-cleaner assembly installed.
Model 22974
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Every 250 hours |
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Every 500 hours |
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Removing the Filters
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake (if applicable), and lower the hydraulic lift.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Release the latches on the air cleaner and pull the air-cleaner cover off the air-cleaner body (Figure 29).
-
Clean the inside of the air-cleaner cover with compressed air.
-
Gently slide the primary filter out of the air-cleaner body (Figure 29).
Note: Avoid knocking the filter into the side of the body.
-
Remove the safety filter only if you intend to replace it.
Important: Do not attempt to clean the safety filter. If the safety filter is dirty, then the primary filter is damaged. Replace both filters.
Servicing the Primary Filter
Inspect the primary filter for damage by looking into the filter while shining a bright light on the outside of the filter.
Note: Holes in the filter appear as bright spots. If the filter is dirty, bent, or damaged, replace it. Do not clean the primary filter.
Servicing the Safety Filter
Replace the safety filter, never clean it.
Important: Do not attempt to clean the safety filter. If the safety filter is dirty, then the primary filter is damaged. Replace both filters.
Installing the Filters
Important: To prevent engine damage, always operate the engine with both air filters and the cover installed.
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If you are installing new filters, check each filter for shipping damage.
Note: Do not use a damaged filter.
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If you are replacing the safety filter, carefully slide it into the filter body (Figure 29).
-
Carefully slide the primary filter over the safety filter (Figure 29).
Note: Ensure that the primary filter is fully seated by pushing on its outer rim while installing it.
Important: Do not press on the soft inside area of the filter.
-
Install the air-cleaner cover with the side indicated as up facing upward and secure the latches (Figure 29).
Servicing the Engine Oil
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
After the first 8 hours |
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Before each use or daily |
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Every 100 hours |
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Every 200 hours |
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Note: Change the oil more frequently when the operating conditions are extremely dusty or sandy.
Note: Your engine may look different than the one shown in the graphics.
Engine-Oil Specifications
Oil Type: Detergent oil (API service SF, SG, SH, or SJ)
Crankcase Capacity:
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Models 22972 and 22973: 1.7 L (57 fl oz) with the filter removed; 1.5 L (51 fl oz) without the filter removed
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Models 22974: 2.1 L (71 fl oz) with the filter removed; 1.8 L (61 fl oz) without the filter removed
Viscosity: Refer to the table below.
Checking the Engine-Oil Level
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Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake (if applicable), and lower the hydraulic lift.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
Changing the Engine Oil
-
Start the engine and let it run 5 minutes. This warms the oil so it drains better.
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Park the machine so that the drain side is slightly lower than the opposite side to ensure that the oil drains completely.
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Lower the boom and engage the parking brake.
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Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.
-
Place a pan below the drain hose.
Note: Rotate the oil-drain valve to allow oil to drain (Figure 32).
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When oil has drained completely, close the drain valve.
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Dispose of the used oil at a recycling center
-
Slowly pour approximately 80% of the specified oil into the filler tube and slowly add the additional oil to bring it to the Full mark (Figure 33).
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Start the engine and drive to a flat area.
-
Check the oil level again.
Changing the Engine-Oil Filter
-
Drain the oil from the engine; refer to Changing the Engine Oil.
-
Change the engine-oil filter (Figure 34).
Note: Ensure that the oil-filter gasket touches the engine, and then turn the oil filter an extra 3/4 turn.
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Fill the crankcase with the proper type of new oil; refer to Engine-Oil Specifications.
Servicing the Spark Plug
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Every 100 hours |
|
Make sure that the air gap between the center and side electrodes is correct before installing the spark plug. Use a spark plug wrench for removing and installing the spark plug(s) and a gapping tool/feeler gauge to check and adjust the air gap. Install a new spark plug(s) if necessary.
Type of Spark Plug: NGK® BPR4ES or equivalent
Air Gap: 0.75 mm (0.03 inch)
Removing the Spark Plug
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake (if applicable), and lower the hydraulic lift.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Locate and remove the spark plugs (Figure 35).
Checking the Spark Plug
Important: Do not clean the spark plug(s). Always replace the spark plug(s) when it has: a black coating, worn electrodes, an oily film, or cracks.
If you see light brown or gray on the insulator, the engine is operating properly. A black coating on the insulator usually means the air cleaner is dirty.
Set the gap to 0.75 mm (0.03 inch).
Installing the Spark Plug
Fuel System Maintenance
Draining the Fuel Tank
Danger
In certain conditions, fuel is extremely flammable and highly explosive. A fire or explosion from fuel can burn you and others and can damage property.
Refer to Fuel Safety for a complete list of fuel related precautions.
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Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the hydraulic lift.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Turn the fuel-shutoff valve to the closed position (Figure 38).
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Squeeze the ends of the hose clamp on the engine side of the valve together and slide it up the fuel line away from the valve (Figure 38).
-
Pull the fuel line off the valve (Figure 38).
-
Open the fuel-shutoff valve and allow the fuel to drain into a fuel can or drain pan.
Note: If desired, you can replace the fuel filter at this time; refer to Replacing the Fuel Filter.
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Install the fuel line onto the fuel-shutoff valve. Slide the hose clamp close to the valve to secure the fuel line.
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Wipe up any spilled fuel.
Replacing the Fuel Filter
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Every 200 hours |
|
Never install a dirty filter if it is removed from the fuel line.
Note: Note how the fuel filter is installed in order to install the new filter correctly.
Note: Wipe up any spilled fuel.
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the hydraulic lift.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Turn the fuel shutoff valve to the closed position (Figure 38).
-
Squeeze the ends of the hose clamps together and slide them away from the filter (Figure 39).
-
Remove the filter from the fuel lines.
-
Install a new filter and move the hose clamps close to the filter.
-
Turn the fuel shutoff valve to the open position (Figure 38).
-
Check for fuel leaks and repair if needed.
-
Wipe up any spilled fuel.
Electrical System Maintenance
Servicing the Battery
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Every 25 hours |
|
Always keep the battery clean and fully charged. Use a paper towel to clean the battery case. If the battery terminals are corroded, clean them with a solution of 4 parts water and 1 part baking soda. Apply a light coating of grease to the battery terminals to reduce corrosion.
Voltage: 12 V with 300 A (cold cranking) at -18°C (0°F).
Warning
CALIFORNIA
Proposition 65 Warning
Use of this product may cause exposure to chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, or other reproductive harm.
Warning
Incorrect battery cable routing could damage the machine and cables, causing sparks. Sparks can cause the battery gasses to explode, resulting in personal injury.
-
Always disconnect the negative (black) cable before disconnecting the positive (red) cable.
-
Always connect the positive (red) cable before connecting the negative (black) cable.
Warning
Battery terminals or metal tools could short against metal components, causing sparks. Sparks can cause the battery gasses to explode, resulting in personal injury.
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When removing or installing the battery, do not allow the battery terminals to touch any metal parts of the traction unit.
-
Do not allow metal tools to short between the battery terminals and metal parts of the traction unit.
Removing the Battery
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the hydraulic lift.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Lift the black rubber cover on the negative cable. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the negative (-) battery terminal (Figure 40).
-
Slide the red terminal boot off the positive (red) battery terminal. Then remove the positive (red) battery cable (Figure 40).
-
Remove the hold down plate, j-bolts, and locknuts securing the battery (Figure 40) and remove the battery.
Charging the Battery
Warning
Charging the battery produces gasses that can explode.
Never smoke near the battery and keep sparks and flames away from battery.
Important: Always keep the battery fully charged (1.265 specific gravity). This is especially important to prevent battery damage when the temperature is below 0°C (32°F).
-
Remove the battery from the machine; refer to Removing the Battery.
-
Charge the battery at a rate of 3 to 4 A for 4 to 8 hours (Figure 41). Do not overcharge the battery.
-
When the battery is fully charged, unplug the charger from the electrical outlet, then disconnect the charger leads from the battery posts (Figure 41).
Checking the Battery Electrolyte Level
Danger
Battery electrolyte contains sulfuric acid which is fatal if consumed and causes severe burns.
-
Do not drink electrolyte and avoid contact with skin, eyes or clothing. Wear safety glasses to shield your eyes and rubber gloves to protect your hands.
-
Fill the battery where clean water is always available for flushing the skin.
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the hydraulic lift.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Look at the side of the battery. The electrolyte must be up to the upper line (Figure 42). Do not allow the electrolyte to fall below the Lower line (Figure 42).
-
If the electrolyte is low, add the required amount of distilled water; refer to Adding Water to the Battery.
Adding Water to the Battery
The best time to add distilled water to the battery is just before you operate the machine. This lets the water mix thoroughly with the electrolyte solution.
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the hydraulic lift.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Remove the battery from the machine; refer to Removing the Battery.
Important: Never fill the battery with distilled water while the battery is installed in the machine. Electrolyte could spill on other parts and cause corrosion.
-
Clean the top of the battery with a paper towel.
-
Remove the vent caps from the battery (Figure 42).
-
Slowly pour distilled water into each battery cell until the electrolyte level is up to the Upper line (Figure 42) on the battery case.
Important: Do not overfill the battery; electrolyte (sulfuric acid) can cause severe corrosion and damage to the chassis.
-
Wait 5 to 10 minutes after filling the battery cells. Add distilled water, if necessary, until the electrolyte level is up to the Upper line (Figure 42) on the battery case.
-
Install the battery vent caps.
Cleaning the Battery
Note: Keep the terminals and the entire battery case clean, because a dirty battery discharges slowly.
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the hydraulic lift.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Remove the battery from the machine; Removing the Battery.
-
Wash the entire case with a solution of baking soda and water.
-
Rinse the battery with clear water.
-
Coat the battery posts and cable connectors with Grafo 112X (skin-over) grease (Toro Part No. 505-47) or petroleum jelly to prevent corrosion.
-
Install the battery; refer to Installing the Battery.
Installing the Battery
-
Using the fasteners previously removed, install the positive (red) battery cable to the positive (+) battery terminal (Figure 41).
-
Slide the red terminal boot onto the positive battery post.
-
Using the fasteners previously removed, install the negative (black) battery cable to the negative (-) battery terminal (Figure 41).
-
Secure the battery using the bar and wing nuts (Figure 41).
Important: Ensure that the battery cables do not contact any sharp edges or each other.
Replacing the Fuses (Models 22973 and 22974)
There are 4 fuses in the electrical system. They are under the control panel on the left side (Figure 43).
Start Circuit | 30 amp |
Charge Circuit | 25 amp |
Cooler fan Circuit | 15 amp |
Headlight (optional) | 15 amp |
Drive System Maintenance
Servicing the Tracks
Cleaning the Tracks
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Before each use or daily |
|
Check the tracks for excessive wear and clean them periodically. If the tracks are worn, replace them.
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the hydraulic lift.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Using a water hose or pressure washer, remove dirt from each track system.
Important: Ensure that you use high-pressure water to wash only the track area. Do not use a high-pressure washer to clean the rest of the machine. High-pressure washing can damage the electrical system and hydraulic valves or deplete grease.
Important: Ensure that you fully clean the road wheels and the drive sprocket (Figure 44). The road wheels should rotate freely when clean.
Checking and Adjusting the Track Tension
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
After the first 50 hours |
|
Every 100 hours |
|
To check the tension of each track, place 20.4 kg (45 lb) on the track midway between the front road wheel and the drive sprocket. The track should flex no more than 0.6 to 1 cm (1/4 to 3/8 inch). If it does, adjust the track tension using the following procedure:
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the hydraulic lift.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Loosen the jam nut on the track tensioning bolt and the clamp bolts on the tension arm (Figure 46).
-
Torque the tensioning bolt to 32.5 to 40 N∙m (24 to 30 ft-lb) to tighten the track (Figure 46).
-
Ensure that the track deflects less than 0.6 to 1 cm (1/4 to 3/8 inch) when 20.6 kg (45 lb) of force is applied to the track span. Adjust the torque on the tensioning bolt as needed.
-
Tighten the jam nut.
-
Tighten the clamp bolts and torque to 102 N∙m (75 ft-lb).
Replacing the Tracks
When the tracks are badly worn, replace them.
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the hydraulic lift.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Lift and support the side of the unit to be worked on so that the track is 7.6 to 10 cm (3 to 4 inches) off the ground.
-
Back out the tensioning bolt and jam nut (Figure 46).
-
Loosen the clamp bolts (Figure 46).
-
Push the front road wheel rearward as far as it can goes (Figure 47).
-
Begin removing the track at the top of the front road wheel, peeling it off the wheel while rotating the track forward.
Note: You may need to remove the front, outside road wheel. To remove it, remove the snap ring and cap from the center of the road wheel (Figure 48). Next remove the bolt and gasket from the center of the wheel and pull the wheel off the machine.
-
When the track is off the road wheel, remove it from the machine (Figure 47).
-
Beginning at the drive sprocket, coil the new track around the sprocket, ensuring that the lugs on the track fit between the spacers on the sprocket (Figure 47).
-
Push the track under and between the rear and center road wheels (Figure 47).
-
Starting at the bottom of the front road wheel, install the track around the wheel by rotating the track rearward while pushing the lugs into the wheel.
-
If you removed the front, outside road wheel, install it at this time using the bolt and gasket removed previously. Torque the bolt to 102 N∙m (75 ft-lb) and then clean, grease, and install the cap and snap ring as instructed in the Checking and Greasing the Road Wheels.
-
Install the tensioning bolt and jam nut.
-
Torque the tensioning bolt to 32.5 to 40 N∙m (24 to 30 ft-lb) to tighten the track.
-
Ensure that the track deflects less than 0.6 to 1 cm (1/4 to 3/8 inch) when 20.6 kg (45 lb) of force is applied to the track span. Adjust the torque on the tensioning bolt as needed.
-
Tighten the jam nut.
-
Tighten the clamp bolts and torque to 102 N∙m (75 ft-lb).
-
Lower the machine to the ground.
-
Repeat the procedure to replace the other track.
Checking and Greasing the Road Wheels
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Every 250 hours |
|
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the hydraulic lift.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Remove the tracks; refer to Replacing the Tracks.
-
Remove the snap ring and cap from a road wheel (Figure 49).
-
Check the grease under the cap and around the gasket (Figure 49). If it is dirty, gritty, or depleted, clean out all of the grease, replace the gasket, and add new grease.
-
Ensure that the road wheel turns smoothly on the bearing. If it is frozen, contact your Authorized Service Dealer to replace the road wheel.
-
Place the greased road wheel cap over the bolt head (Figure 49).
-
Secure the road wheel cap with the snap ring (Figure 49).
-
Repeat steps 4 through 8 for all 12 road wheels.
-
Install the tracks; refer to Replacing the Tracks.
Belt Maintenance
Replacing the Pump-Drive Belt
If the pump drive belt begins to squeal or is cracked, worn, or frayed, replace it. Contact your Authorized Service Dealer for a replacement belt.
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the hydraulic lift.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Raise the back of the machine and support it on jack stands.
-
Remove the bottom shield; refer to Removing the Bottom Shield.
-
Loosen the 2 pump bolts (Figure 50).
-
Twist the pump counterclockwise and allow it to drop down away from the pulley (Figure 50).
Note: Ensure that the spider coupler drops down with the pump.
-
Using a spring puller (contact your Authorized Service Dealer) or stiff metal hook, pull the end of the idler pulley spring off the spring bolt to release tension on the belt (Figure 50).
-
Remove the belt.
-
Route a new belt around the pulleys.
-
Install the idler-pulley spring on the bolt.
-
Ensure that the spider coupler is in place on the pump and then insert it into the pulley, twisting it clockwise to seat it on the pump bolts.
-
Torque the pump bolts to 68 N∙m (50 ft-lb).
-
Install the bottom shield.
Controls System Maintenance
Adjusting the Traction-Control Alignment
The factory adjusts the traction controls before shipping the machine. However, after many hours of use, you may need to adjust the traction-control alignment, the neutral position of the traction control, and the tracking of the traction control in the full forward position.
Important: To adjust the controls properly, complete each procedure in the order listed.
Adjusting the Traction-Control Reverse Position
If the traction control bar does not rest flush and square with the reference bar when in the full reverse position, immediately complete the following procedure:
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake (if applicable), and lower the hydraulic lift.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Pull back the traction control so that the front of the control contacts the reference bar (Figure 51).
-
If the front of the traction control does not rest square and flush with the reference bar, loosen the nut and bolt in the stem of the traction control (Figure 52).
-
Adjust the traction control so that it rests flush against the reference bar when it is pulled straight back (Figure 52 and Figure 53).
-
Tighten the flange nut and bolt in the traction control stem.
-
Start the engine.
-
Drive the machine in reverse with the traction control tight to the reference bar. If the machine does not back up straight, complete the following procedure:
-
Shut off the engine
-
Lift and support the machine so that both tracks are off the ground and are free to run.
-
Loosen the flange nut and bolt in the stem of the traction control (Figure 52).
-
Loosen the jam nuts on the traction rods, under the control panel (Figure 54).
-
Start the machine and set the throttle to about the 1/3 open position.
Warning
When the machine is running, you could be caught and injured in moving parts or burned on hot surfaces.
Stay away from pinch points, moving parts, and hot surfaces when adjusting the running machine.
-
Have a helper hold the traction control tight to the reference bar in reverse.
-
Adjust the length of the traction rods until both tracks are running at the same speed.
Note: You can also adjust the maximum reverse speed of the tracks at this time.
-
Tighten the jam nuts.
-
Adjust the traction control so that it rests flush against the reference bar when it is pulled straight back (Figure 52 and Figure 53).
-
Tighten the flange nut and bolt in the traction control stem.
-
Shut off the engine and lower the machine to the ground.
-
Drive the machine in full reverse, checking to see if the machine tracks straight. If it does not, note the direction the machine veers. Repeat the adjustment so that the machine tracks straight in reverse.
-
Adjusting the Traction-Control Neutral Position
If the machine creeps forward or backward when the traction control is in neutral and the machine is warm, you may need to adjust the return-to-neutral mechanism on the pumps; contact your Authorized Service Dealer.
Adjusting the Traction-Control Forward Position
If the machine does not drive straight when you hold the traction control forward against the reference bar, complete the following procedure:
-
Drive the machine with the traction control against the reference bar, noting which direction the machine veers.
-
Release the traction control.
-
If the machine veers to the left, loosen the right jam nut and adjust the tracking set screw on the front of the traction control (Figure 55).
-
If the machine veers to the right, loosen the left jam nut and adjust the tracking set screw on the front of the traction control (Figure 55).
-
Repeat the procedure until the machine drives straight in the full forward position.
Important: Ensure that the set screws touch the stops in the full forward position to avoid overstroking the hydraulic pumps.
Hydraulic System Maintenance
Warning
Hydraulic fluid escaping under pressure can penetrate skin and cause injury. Fluid injected into the skin must be surgically removed within a few hours by a doctor familiar with this form of injury or gangrene may result.
-
Keep your body and hands away from pin hole leaks or nozzles that eject high pressure hydraulic fluid.
-
Use cardboard or paper to find hydraulic leaks, never use your hands.
Hydraulic Fluid Specifications
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Every 100 hours |
|
Every 1,500 hours |
|
Hydraulic Tank Capacity: 23 L (6 US gallons)
Use only 1 of the following fluids in the hydraulic system:
-
Toro Premium Transmission/Hydraulic Tractor Fluid (refer to your Authorized Toro Dealer for more information)
-
Toro Premium All Season Hydraulic Fluid (refer to your Authorized Toro Dealer for more information)
-
If either of the above Toro fluids are not available, you may use another Universal Tractor Hydraulic Fluid (UTHF), but they must be only conventional, petroleum-based products. The specifications must fall within the listed range for all the following material properties and the fluid should meet the listed industry standards. Check with your hydraulic fluid supplier to determine if the fluid meets these specifications.
Note: Toro will not assume responsibility for damage caused by improper substitutions, so use only products from reputable manufacturers who will stand behind their recommendations.
Material Properties Viscosity, ASTM D445 cSt at 40°C: 55 to 62 cSt at 100°C: 9.1 to 9.8 Viscosity index, ASTM D2270 140 to 152 Pour Point, ASTM D97 -37 to -43°C (-35 to -46°F) Industry Standards API GL-4, AGCO Powerfluid 821 XL, Ford New Holland FNHA-2-C-201.00, Kubota UDT, John Deere J20C, Vickers 35VQ25 and Volvo WB-101/BM Note: Many hydraulic fluids are almost colorless, making it difficult to spot leaks. A red dye additive for the hydraulic system fluid is available in 20 ml (0.67 fl oz) bottles. One bottle is sufficient for 15 to 22 L (4 to 6 US gallons) of hydraulic fluid. Order Part No. 44-2500 from your Authorized Toro Dealer.
Checking the Hydraulic-Fluid Level
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Every 25 hours |
|
Refer to Hydraulic Fluid Specifications.
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake (if applicable), and lower the hydraulic lift.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
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Look into the glass bubble on the right side of the machine. If you cannot see hydraulic fluid in the bubble, continue this procedure to add fluid.
-
Remove the cover plate; refer to Removing the Cover Plate.
-
Clean the area around the filler neck of the hydraulic tank and remove the cap and filter from the filler neck using a socket (Figure 57).
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If the level is low, add fluid until it is visible in the glass bubble.
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Install the cap and filter on the filler neck and torque bolt on top to 13 to 15.5 N∙m (110 to 140 in-lb).
-
Install the cover plate; refer to Removing the Cover Plate.
Replacing the Hydraulic Filter
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Every 200 hours |
|
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake (if applicable), and lower the hydraulic lift.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Remove the top cover.
-
Remove and discard the old filter (Figure 58).
-
Install the replacement hydraulic filter and filler cap (Figure 58) and torque the bolt on top to 13 to 15.5 N∙m (110 to 140 in-lb).
-
Clean up any spilled fluid.
-
Install the top cover.
Changing the Hydraulic Fluid
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Every 400 hours |
|
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake (if applicable), and lower the hydraulic lift.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Allow the machine to cool completely.
-
Remove the top cover.
-
Remove the hydraulic-tank filler cap and filter (Figure 58).
-
Place a drain pan capable of holding 37.8 L (10 US Gallons) under the hydraulic tank.
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Pinch the hose clamp and slide the clamp and hose off the fitting on the hydraulic tank, allowing the hydraulic fluid to drain from the hose and tank into the pan.
-
When finished, install the hose onto the fitting and secure it with the hose clamp.
Note: Dispose of the used oil at a certified recycling center.
-
Fill the hydraulic tank with hydraulic fluid; refer to Hydraulic Fluid Specifications.
-
Install the hydraulic filter and filler cap (Figure 58) and torque the bolt on top to 13 to 15.5 N∙m (110 to 140 in-lb).
-
Start the engine and let it run for a few minutes.
-
Shut off the engine.
-
Check the hydraulic-fluid level and top it off if necessary; refer to Checking the Hydraulic-Fluid Level.
-
Clean up any spilled fluid.
-
Install the top cover.
Trencher Maintenance
Replacing the Digging Teeth
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Before each use or daily |
|
Due to the high amount of wear placed on the digging teeth, you will need to replace them periodically.
To replace a single tooth, remove the bolts securing the tooth to remove it, then install a new tooth in the same position. Torque the bolts securing the teeth to 37 to 45 N∙m (27 to 33 ft-lb).
Checking and Adjusting the Digging Chain and Boom
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Every 25 hours |
|
-
Check each link in the chain for excessive wear, such as links that can no longer hold teeth.
-
Inspect the bottom of the boom for wear.
-
With the trencher parallel to the ground, ensure that there are 3.8 to 6.3 cm (1-1/2 to 2-1/2 inches) between the bottom of the boom and the top of the bottom chain span. If not, adjust the chain tension.
Important: Do not overtighten the chain. Excessive chain tension may damage drive components.
To replace a worn chain, flip or replace a worn boom, or adjust the chain tension, use the following procedure:
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the hydraulic lift.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
If you are replacing the chain or flipping or replacing the boom, complete the following:
-
Remove the 2 bolts and nuts securing the boom to the trencher arm.
-
Loosen the jam nut on the adjusting bolt in the boom.
-
Loosen the adjusting bolt until you can remove the chain from the boom.
-
Remove the chain from the drive sprocket.
-
If the chain needs replacing, remove the bolt and nut securing the spoils auger and remove the auger and chain.
-
Remove the boom, flip it over so the bottom becomes the top (or if you have already flipped it once, replace it), and install the boom again.
-
Replace the nuts, bolts, and washers to secure the boom.
-
If you are installing a new chain, connect the links by pressing or hammering the clevis pin supplied with the chain through the links, then secure the clevis pin with the cotter pin supplied with the chain.
Important: To avoid bending the chain links, place blocks under and between the links when hammering the clevis pin through.
-
Install the chain over the drive sprocket and front roller.
-
If you removed the spoils auger, install it using the bolt and nut you removed previously. Torque the bolt and nut to 102 N∙m (75 ft-lb).
-
Skip to step 6 to complete the adjustment.
-
-
Loosen the 2 bolts and nuts securing the boom to the trencher arm
-
Loosen the jam nut securing the adjustment bolt.
-
Turn the adjustment bolt in or out as needed to achieve the desired tension.
-
Tighten the jam nut.
-
Torque the 2 bolts and nuts securing the boom to 183 to 223 N∙m (135 to 165 ft-lb).
Replacing the Drive Sprocket
Over time, the drive sprocket wears, especially when it is used in sandy or clay soils. When this happens, the digging chain begins to slip. If the chain slips, replace the drive sprocket as follows:
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake
-
Raise the trencher a few inches above the ground.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Remove the spoils auger (Figure 61).
-
Loosen the 2 bolts and nuts securing the boom to the trencher arm.
-
Loosen the jam nut on the adjusting bolt in the boom.
-
Loosen the adjusting bolt until you can remove the chain from the boom.
-
Remove the chain from the drive sprocket.
-
Remove the 6 bolts securing the drive sprocket (Figure 61).
-
Remove and discard the drive sprocket (Figure 61).
-
Clean the sprocket mounting surface on the trencher (Figure 61).
-
Slide the new sprocket onto the shaft (Figure 61).
Important: The arrow on the sprocket face should be visible from the right side of the trench and should point in a clockwise direction; if not, turn the sprocket around.
-
Thread the 6 bolts into the sprocket finger tight (Figure 61).
-
Slowly begin tightening the bolts progressing around the sprocket until all bolts are torqued to 129 to 155 N∙m (95 to 115 ft-lb).
Important: Tighten each bolt only halfway first, working your way around the 6 bolts, then return to each bolt in turn and torque them
-
Loop the chain over the auger drive shaft and onto the drive sprocket, ensuring that the teeth point forward on the upper span.
-
Set the upper span of the chain into place on the trencher boom, then wrap the chain around the roller at the end of the boom.
-
Thread the adjustment bolt into the boom and turn it in until there is 3.8 to 6.3 cm (1-1/2 to 2-1/2 inches) of slack in the chain on the bottom span.
-
Thread the jam nut down the adjusting bolt and tighten it securely against the boom.
-
Torque the 2 bolts and nuts securing the boom to 183 to 223 N∙m (135 to 165 ft-lb).
-
Install the spoils auger using the bolt and nut you removed previously.
Note: Torque the bolt and nut to 102 N∙m (75 ft-lb).
Cleaning
Removing Debris from the Machine
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Before each use or daily |
|
Important: Operating the engine with blocked screens, dirty or plugged cooling fins, and/or cooling shrouds removed will result in engine damage from overheating.
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake (if applicable), and lower the hydraulic lift.
-
Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for the engine to cool.
-
Wipe away debris from the air cleaner.
-
Clean any debris buildup on the engine with a brush or blower.
Important: It is preferable to blow dirt out, rather than washing it out. If you use water, keep it away from electrical items and hydraulic valves. Do not use a high-pressure washer. High-pressure washing can damage the electrical system and hydraulic valves or deplete grease.
-
Clean debris from the oil cooler.