Commercial Walk-Behind Traction Unit

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the PTO, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Clean around the air cleaner to prevent dirt from getting into the engine and causing damage (Figure 21).

4. Unscrew the cover knobs and remove the air-cleaner cover (Figure 21).

5. Unscrew the hose clamp and remove the air-cleaner assembly (Figure 21).

6. Carefully pull the foam element off the paper element (Figure 21).

   

   Figure 21

   1. Cover
   2. Hose clamp
   3. Paper element
   4. Foam element

1. Wash the foam element in liquid soap and warm water. When the element is clean, rinse it thoroughly.

2. Dry the element by squeezing it in a clean cloth.

   Important: Replace the foam element if it is torn or worn.

1. Do not clean the paper filter. Replace it (Figure 21).

2. Inspect the element for tears, an oily film, or damage to the rubber seal.

3. Replace the paper element if it is damaged.

Important: To prevent engine damage, always operate the engine with the complete foam and paper air-cleaner assembly installed.

1. Carefully slide the foam element onto the paper air-cleaner element (Figure 21).

2. Place the air-cleaner assembly onto the air-cleaner base and secure it with the 2 wing nuts (Figure 21).

3. Place the air-cleaner cover into position and tighten the cover knob (Figure 21).

Oil Capacity: with a filter change—1.7 L (57 fl oz); without a filter change—1.5 L (51 fl oz)

Viscosity: See the table below.

Figure 22

Note: Check the oil when the engine is cold.

Important: If you overfill or underfill the engine crankcase with oil and run the engine, you may damage the engine.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the PTO, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

   Note: Ensure that the engine is cool so that the oil has had time to drain into the sump.

3. To keep dirt, grass clippings, etc., out of the engine, clean the area around the oil-fill cap and dipstick before removing it (Figure 23).

Figure 23

1. Park the machine so that the drain side is slightly lower than the opposite side to ensure that the oil drains completely.

2. Disengage the PTO and engage the parking brake.

3. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

4. Drain the oil from the engine (Figure 24).

   

   Figure 24

5. Slowly pour approximately 80% of the specified oil into the filler tube and slowly add the additional oil to bring it to the Full mark (Figure 25).

   

   Figure 25

6. Dispose of the used oil at a recycling center.

1. Drain the oil from the engine; refer to Changing the Engine Oil.

2. Change the engine-oil filter (Figure 26).

   

   Figure 26

   Note: Ensure that the oil-filter gasket touches the engine, and then turn the oil filter an extra 3/4 turn.

3. Fill the crankcase with the proper type of new oil (Figure 25).

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the PTO, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Clean the area around the base of the plug to keep dirt and debris out of the engine.

4. Remove the spark plug (Figure 27).

   

   Figure 27

Important: Do not clean the spark plug(s). Always replace the spark plug(s) when it has a black coating, worn electrodes, an oily film, or cracks.

If you see light brown or gray on the insulator, the engine is operating properly. A black coating on the insulator usually means the air cleaner is dirty.

Set the gap to 0.75 mm (0.03 inch).

Figure 28

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the PTO, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Close the fuel-shutoff valve at the fuel tank (Figure 30).

4. Squeeze the ends of the hose clamp together and slide it up the fuel line away from fuel filter (Figure 30).

5. Pull the fuel line off the fuel filter (Figure 30). Open the fuel-shutoff valve and allow the fuel to drain into a fuel can or drain pan.

   Note: Now is the best time to install a new fuel filter because the fuel tank is empty. Refer to Replacing the Fuel Filter.

6. Install the fuel line onto the fuel filter. Slide the hose clamp close to the valve to secure the fuel line.

   

   Figure 30

   1. Fuel-shutoff valve
   2. Fuel filter

Never install a dirty filter after removing it from the fuel line.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the PTO, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Close fuel-shutoff valve at the fuel tank (Figure 30).

4. Squeeze the ends of the hose clamps together and slide them away from the filter (Figure 31).

   Note: Note how the fuel filter is installed in order to install the new filter correctly.

   

   Figure 31

   1. Hose clamp
   2. Fuel line
   3. Filter

5. Remove the filter from the fuel lines.

6. Install a new filter and move the hose clamps close to the filter.

7. Open fuel-shutoff valve at fuel tank (Figure 30).

8. Check for fuel leaks and repair if needed.

9. Wipe up any spilled fuel.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the PTO, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Raise the rear of the machine onto jack stands high enough to raise the drive wheels of the ground.

4. Disengage the parking brake.

5. Start the engine and move the throttle to the full throttle position.

6. Place the left drive lever in the full forward position.

7. Place the speed-control lever in the NEUTRAL position.

   Warning

   The electrical system does not perform proper safety shut off with the operator-presence control (OPC) levers held down in place.

   • Make sure that the operator-presence control (OPC) levers are working when adjustment is completed.

   • Never operate this unit with the operator-presence control (OPC) levers held down in place.

8. Loosen the front adjusting nut on left hydraulic control linkage as shown in Figure 36.

9. Turn the left rear adjusting nut counter-clockwise until wheel rotates forward (Figure 36).

10. Turn the rear adjusting nut clockwise 1/4 turn at a time. Then move the speed-control lever forward and back to the NEUTRAL position. Repeat this until left wheel stops rotating forward (Figure 36).

11. Turn the rear nut an additional 1/2 turn and tighten the front adjusting nut.

    Note: Make sure that the flat part of linkage is perpendicular to pin part of swivel (Figure 35).

    

    Figure 35

    1. Hydraulic control linkage
    2. Swivel with pin
    3. Incorrect position for hydraulic control linkage
    4. Correct position for Hydraulic control linkage, 90 degrees

12. After adjusting the left hydraulic control linkage, move the speed-control lever forward and then back to the NEUTRAL position.

13. Hold the OPC levers down.

    Note: Hold the OPC levers down whenever the speed-control lever is out of the NEUTRAL position or the engine will shut off.

14. Make sure that the speed-control lever is in the NEUTRAL position and the tire does not rotate.

15. Repeat the adjustment if needed.

    

    Figure 36

    1. Hydraulic control linkage
    2. Front adjustingnut
    3. Rear adjusting nut
    4. Control arm

    Note: If inconsistent neutral occurs, ensure that both springs are properly tightened on the speed-control lever under the console, especially the rear pivot spring. Repeat the adjustments above if necessary (Figure 37).

    

    Figure 37

    1. Speed-control lever
    2. Rear pivot spring
    3. spring

1. Place the speed-control lever in the NEUTRAL position.

2. Place the right drive lever in the full forward position.

3. Adjust the right side linkage by turning the quick track knob counterclockwise until the tire begins to rotate forward (Figure 38).

4. Turn the knob clockwise 1/4 turn at a time. Then move the speed control forward and back to the NEUTRAL position. Repeat this until right wheel stops rotating forward (Figure 38).

5. Hold the OPC levers down.

   Note: Hold the OPC levers down whenever the speed-control lever is out of the NEUTRAL position or the engine will shut off.

6. The spring that keeps tension on the knob should normally not need adjustment. However if an adjustment is needed, adjust the length of spring to 26 mm (1 inch) between the washers (Figure 38).

7. Adjust spring length by turning nut at front of spring (Figure 38).

   

   Figure 38

   1. Hydraulic control linkage
   2. Spring
   3. Quick track knob
   4. 26 mm (1 inch)

1. With rear of machine still on jack stands and engine running at full throttle, move the speed-control lever to the medium speed position.

   Note: Hold the OPC levers down whenever the speed-control lever is out of the NEUTRAL position or the engine will shut off.

2. Move the respective drive lever upward until it reaches the NEUTRAL position and engage neutral locks.

3. If the tire rotates either direction, adjust the length of the control rod; refer to Adjusting the Control Rod ..

1. Adjust the rod length by releasing the drive lever and removing the hairpin cotter and clevis pin. Rotate the rod in the rod fitting (Figure 39).

2. Lengthen the control rod if the tire is turning in reverse and shorten the rod if the tire is turning forward.

3. Rotate the rod several turns if the tire is rotating fast. Then, adjust the rod in 1/2 turn increments.

4. Place the clevis pin into the drive lever (Figure 39).

   

   Figure 39

   1. Control rod
   2. Clevis pin
   3. Drive lever
   4. Operator-presence control (OPC) lever
   5. Left handle shown
   6. Neutral lock
   7. Hairpin cotter

5. Release and engage the neutral lock, checking that the tire does not rotate (Figure 40). Continue this process until the tire does not rotate.

6. Install the hairpin cotter between the drive levers and the neutral locks and into the clevis pins (Figure 39).

7. Repeat this adjustment for the opposite side.

   

   Figure 40

   1. Handle
   2. Neutral lock
   3. Handle
   4. Neutral lock slot
   5. Neutral position
   6. Drive lever
   7. Full speed forward
   8. Control rod

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the PTO, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Set the parking brake.

   Note: Setting the parking brake should take a reasonable amount of force. If it engages too hard or too easily, an adjustment is required. Refer to Adjusting the Parking Brake.

The parking-brake lever is on the right side of the machine. If the parking brake does not hold securely, adjust it.

1. Check the parking brake before you adjust it; refer to Checking the Parking Brake.

2. Disengage the parking brake; refer to Disengaging the Parking Brake.

3. Remove the spring hairpin from the lower brake link (Figure 44).

   

   Figure 44

   1. Brake linkage yoke
   2. Lower brake lever
   3. Spring clevis pin
   4. Lower brake link
   5. 6 mm (1/4 inch)
   6. Hairpin

4. Rotate the lower brake link yoke clockwise into the yoke to tighten the parking brake; rotate the brake link yoke counterclockwise out of the yoke out to loosen the parking brake (Figure 44).

   Note: With the parking brake in the released position, the clearance between the tire and the flat bar is approximately 6 mm (1/4 inch) (Figure 44).

5. Secure the lower link to the lower brake lever with the hairpin cotter and the clevis pin (Figure 44).

6. Check the brake operation again; refer to Checking the Parking Brake.

Important: When the belt tension or the brake linkage is adjusted, the brake needs adjustment.

Important: The belt must be tight enough to not slip during heavy loads while cutting grass. Overtensioning the belt reduces the spindle bearing life, the belt life and the idler pulley life.

The belt must be tight enough so it does not slip during heavy loads while cutting grass; overtensioning reduces belt and spindle bearing life.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the PTO, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Loosen the locknut on the turnbuckle (Figure 46).

4. Rotate the turnbuckle toward the rear of the mower deck to increase the tension on the belt. Rotate the turnbuckle toward the front of the mower deck to decrease the tension on the belt (Figure 46).

   Note: Ensure that the eyebolt threads on both ends of the turnbuckle are engaged a minimum of 8 mm (5/16 inch).

   

   Figure 46

   1. Locknut
   2. Turnbuckle
   3. Front stop
   4. Assist arm
   5. 13 mm (1/2 inch) deflection here

5. Engage the PTO and check the belt tension.

6. If there is no adjustment left in the turnbuckle and the belt is still loose, position the rear idler pulley in the middle or front hole (Figure 47). Use the hole that gives the correct adjustment.

7. When the idler pulley is moved the belt guide must be moved. Move the belt guide to the front position (Figure 47).

   

   Figure 47

   1. Rear idler pulley
   2. Middle hole
   3. Front hole
   4. Belt guide in back position
   5. Front idler pulley (122 cm (48 inch) mower deck only)

8. Check the belt guide under the engine frame for proper adjustment (Figure 48).

   Note: When the mower belt is engaged, ensure that the distance between the belt guide and the mower belt is 19 mm (3/4 inch) (Figure 48). Adjust the mower belt guide as necessary. The disengaged belt should not drag or fall off the pulley when the guides are properly adjusted.

   

   Figure 48

   1. Belt guide

9. Check the blade brake adjustment; refer to Adjusting the Blade Brake.

The PTO engagement linkage adjustment is located beneath the front left hand corner of the engine deck.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the PTO, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Engage the PTO.

4. Adjust the linkage length to where the lower end of the bellcrank just clears the axle support gusset (Figure 49).

   

   Figure 49

   1. Bellcrank
   2. Safety switch located under engine deck
   3. Bellcrank just clears the gusset with the PTO engageded
   4. Yoke
   5. Nut
   6. Assist arm link

5. Make sure that the assist arm is against the rear assist arm stop on the deck (Figure 50).

6. Push the blade control knob (PTO) down to the DISENGAGED position.

7. The assist arm should contact the front assist arm stop on the deck. If it does not contact, adjust the bellcrank so it is closer to the gusset (Figure 50).

   

   Figure 50

   1. Assist arm
   2. Front assist arm stop
   3. Rear assist arm stop
   4. Turnbuckle
   5. Assist arm link
   6. Yoke
   7. Hairpin cotter

8. To adjust the assist arm link, remove the hairpin cotter from the assist arm (Figure 50).

9. Loosen the nut against the yoke (Figure 49).

10. Remove the assist arm link from the assist arm and rotate the link to adjust the length.

11. Install the assist arm link into the assist arm and secure it with the hairpin cotter (Figure 50).

12. Check if the assist arm hits against the stops correctly.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the PTO, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Disengage the PTO. Make sure that the assist arm is against the front assist stop arm.

4. If needed, adjust the blade safety switch by loosening the bolts holding the switch bracket (Figure 51).

5. Move the mounting bracket until the bellcrank presses the plunger by 6 mm (1/4 inch).

   Make sure that the bellcrank does not touch the switch body or damage to the switch could occur (Figure 51).

6. Tighten the switch mounting bracket.

   

   Figure 51

   1. Bellcrank
   2. Bolts and nuts
   3. Switch mounting bracket
   4. Switch body

Fluid Type: Mobil 1 15W-50 synthetic motor oil or equivalent synthetic oil.

Important: Use the fluid specified or equivalent. Other fluids could cause system damage.

Hydraulic System Capacity: 2.3 L (77 fl oz)

Note: There are 2 ways of checking the hydraulic fluid: checking the fluid when it is warm and checking the fluid when it is cold. The baffle inside the tank has 2 levels, depending if the fluid is warm or cold.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the PTO, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position and then engage the parking brake.

4. Clean area around cap and filler neck of hydraulic tank (Figure 52).

   

   Figure 52

   1. Cap
   2. Baffle
   3. Cold fluid level—full
   4. Hot fluid level—full

5. Remove cap from filler neck. Look inside to check if there is fluid in the reservoir (Figure 52).

6. If there is no fluid, add fluid to the reservoir until it reaches the cold level of the baffle.

7. Run the machine at low idle for 15 minutes to allow any air to purge out of the system and warm fluid. Refer to Starting and Stopping the Engine.

8. Check the fluid level while the fluid is warm. If required, add fluid to the reservoir until it reaches the hot level of the baffle.

   Note: When the fluid is warm, the fluid level is at the top of the hot level of the baffle (Figure 52).

9. Install cap on filler neck.

Important: Do not substitute an automotive oil filter, otherwise severe hydraulic system damage may result.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the PTO, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Remove hydraulic reservoir cap and temporarily cover the opening with a plastic bag and rubber band to prevent all hydraulic fluid from draining out.

4. Locate filter under engine base and place drain pan under filter (Figure 53).

5. Remove the old filter and wipe the filter adapter gasket surface clean (Figure 53).

   

   Figure 53

   1. Hydraulic filter
   2. Gasket
   3. Adapter

6. Apply a thin coat hydraulic fluid to the rubber gasket on the replacement filter.

7. Install replacement hydraulic filter onto the filter adapter. Do not tighten.

8. Remove plastic bag from reservoir opening and allow filter to fill with hydraulic fluid.

9. When the hydraulic filter is full, turn the oil filter clockwise until the rubber gasket contacts the filter adapter, then tighten the filter an additional 1/2 turn (Figure 53).

10. Clean up any spilled fluid.

11. If there is no fluid, hydraulic fluid to approximately 6 mm (1/4 inch) below the top of reservoir baffle.

    Important: Use the oil specified in Hydraulic Fluid Specifications or equivalent. Other fluids could cause system damage.

12. Start engine and let run for about 2 minutes to purge air from the system. Shut off the engine and check for leaks. If 1 or both wheels do not drive, refer to Bleeding the Hydraulic System.

13. Check level and add fluid, if required. Do not overfill.

The traction system is self bleeding, however, it may be necessary to bleed the system if fluid is changed or after work is performed on the system.

Purge the air from the hydraulic system when any hydraulic components, including oil filter, are removed or any of the hydraulic lines are disconnected. The critical area for purging air from the hydraulic system is between the oil reservoir and each charge pump located on the top of each variable displacement pump. Air in other parts of the hydraulic system will be purged through normal operation once the charge pump is primed.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the PTO, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Raise the rear of the machine up onto jack stands high enough to raise the drive wheels off the ground.

4. Check the hydraulic-fluid level.

5. Start the engine and move the throttle control to the full throttle position. Move the speed-control lever to the middle speed position and place the drive levers into the drive position.

   If either drive wheel does not rotate, it is possible to assist the purging of the charge pump by carefully rotating the tire in the forward direction.

   Note: It is necessary to lightly touch the charge pump cap with your hand to check the pump temperature. If the cap is too hot to touch, turn off engine. The pumps may be damaged if the pump becomes too hot. If either drive wheel still does not rotate, continue to the next step.

   

   Figure 54

   1. Socket head screw
   2. Charge pump cap

6. Thoroughly clean the area around each of the charge pump housings.

7. To prime the charge pump, continue as follows:

   1. Shut off the engine and remove the key.

   2. Loosen the 2 hex-socket head capscrews (Figure 54) 1-1/2 turns only.

   3. Lift the charge pump housing upward and wait for a steady flow of fluid to flow out from under the housing. Tighten the capscrews.

   4. Repeat this for both pumps.

   Note: The hydraulic reservoir can be pressurized to up to 5 psi (0.35 bar) to speed up this process.

8. If either drive wheel still does not rotate, stop and repeat steps 4 and 5 on the respective pump. If wheels rotate slowly, the system may prime after additional running. Check the hydraulic-fluid level.

9. Allow unit to run several minutes after the charge pumps are primed with drive system in the full speed position.

10. Check the hydraulic control linkage adjustment. Refer to Adjusting the Hydraulic Control Linkages.

Check the hydraulic lines and hoses for leaks, loose fittings, kinked lines, loose mounting supports, wear, weather and chemical deterioration. Make necessary repairs before operating.

Note: Keep areas around hydraulic system clean from grass and debris buildup.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the PTO, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and disconnect the spark-plug wires from the spark plugs.

1. Inspect the cutting edges (Figure 55).

2. If the edges are not sharp or have nicks, remove and sharpen the blade; refer to Sharpening the Blades.

3. Inspect the blades, especially in the curved area.

4. If you notice any cracks, wear, or a slot forming in this area, immediately install a new blade (Figure 55).

   

   Figure 55

   1. Cutting edge
   2. Curved area
   3. Wear/slot forming
   4. Crack

1. Rotate the blades until the ends face forward and backward.

2. Measure from a level surface to the cutting edge, position A, of the blades (Figure 56).

   

   Figure 56

   1. Measure here from blade to hard surface
   2. Position A

3. Rotate the opposite ends of the blades forward.

4. Measure from a level surface to the cutting edge of the blades at the same position as in step 2 above.

   Note: The difference between the dimensions obtained in steps 2 and 4 must not exceed 3 mm (1/8 inch).

   Note: If this dimension exceeds 3 mm (1/8 inch), the blade is bent and must be replaced.

Replace the blades if you hit a solid object or if the blades are out of balance or bent. To ensure optimum performance and continued safety conformance of the machine, use genuine Toro replacement blades. Replacement blades made by other manufacturers may result in non-conformance with safety standards.

1. Hold the blade bolt with a wrench.

2. Remove the nut, blade bolt, curved washer, blade, spacers, and thin washer from the spindle (Figure 57).

   

   Figure 57

   1. Blade
   2. Blade bolt
   3. Curved washer
   4. Spacer
   5. Thin washer
   6. Nut

1. Use a file to sharpen the cutting edge at both ends of the blade (Figure 58).

   Note: Maintain the original angle.

   Note: The blade retains its balance if the same amount of material is removed from both cutting edges.

   

   Figure 58

   1. Sharpen at original angle.

2. Check the balance of the blade by putting it on a blade balancer (Figure 59).

   Note: If the blade stays in a horizontal position, the blade is balanced and can be used.

   Note: If the blade is not balanced, file some metal off the end of the sail area only (Figure 58).

   

   Figure 59

   1. Blade
   2. Balancer

3. Repeat this procedure until the blade is balanced.

1. Install the bolt, curved washer, and blade. Select the proper number of spacer(s) for the height of cut, and slide the bolt into the spindle (Figure 57).

   Important: The curved part of the blade must point upward toward the inside of the mower deck to ensure proper cutting.

2. Install the remaining spacer(s) and secure them with a thin washer and a nut (Figure 57).

3. Torque the blade bolt to 75 to 80 N∙m (101 to 108 ft-lb).