Reelmaster® 5010-H Traction Unit

The engine is shipped with oil in the crankcase; however, the oil level must be checked before and after the engine is first started.

Crankcase capacity is approximately 3.3 L (3.5 US qt) with the filter.

Use high-quality engine oil that meets the following specifications:

• API Classification Level Required: CH-4, CI-4 or higher

• Preferred oil: SAE 15W-40 (above 0°F)

• Alternate oil: SAE 10W-30 or 5W-30 (all temperatures)

Toro Premium Engine oil is available from your distributor in either 15W-40 or 10W-30 viscosity.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the cutting units, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. Open the hood.

3. Remove the dipstick, wipe it clean, and install it (Figure 29).

   

   Figure 29

   1. Dipstick

4. Remove the dipstick and check the oil level on the dipstick.

   Note: The oil level should be up to the FULL mark.

5. If the oil level is below the FULL mark, remove the fill cap (Figure 30), and add oil until level reaches the FULL mark on the dipstick.

   

   Figure 30

   1. Oil-fill cap

   Do not overfill.

   Important: Make sure that you keep the engine-oil level between the upper and lower limits on the oil gauge. Engine failure may occur as a result of over filling or under filling the engine oil.

6. Install the oil-fill cap and close the hood.

Clean debris off the screen, oil cooler, and front of the radiator daily and more often if conditions are extremely dusty and dirty. Refer to Removing Debris from the Cooling System.

The cooling system is filled with a 50/50 solution of water and permanent ethylene glycol antifreeze. Check the level of coolant in the expansion tank at the beginning of each day before starting the engine. The capacity of the cooling system is 5.2 L (5.5 US qt).

1. Check the level of coolant in the expansion tank (Figure 32).

   The coolant level should be between the marks on the side of the tank.

   

   Figure 32

   1. Expansion tank

2. If the coolant level is low, remove the expansion tank cap and replenish the system. Do not overfill.

3. Install the expansion-tank cap.

The machines reservoir is filled at the factory with approximately 41.6 L (11 US gallons) of high-quality hydraulic fluid. Check the level of the hydraulic fluid before the engine is first started and daily thereafter. The recommended replacement fluid is as follows:

Alternate fluids: If the Toro fluid is not available, other fluids may be used provided they meet all the following material properties and industry specifications. We do not recommend the use of synthetic fluid. Consult with your lubricant distributor to identify a satisfactory product.

Note: Toro does not assume responsibility for damage caused by improper substitutions, so use only products from reputable manufacturers who will stand behind their recommendation.

Important: The ISO VG 46 Multigrade fluid has been found to offer optimal performance in a wide-range of temperature conditions. For operation in consistently high ambient temperatures, 18°C (65°F) to 49°C (120°F), ISO VG 68 hydraulic fluid may offer improved performance.

Premium Biodegradable Hydraulic Fluid-Mobil EAL EnviroSyn 46H

Important: Mobil EAL EnviroSyn 46H is the only synthetic biodegradable fluid approved by Toro. This fluid is compatible with the elastomers used in Toro hydraulic systems and is suitable for a wide-range of temperature conditions. This fluid is compatible with conventional mineral oils, but for maximum biodegradability and performance the hydraulic system should be thoroughly flushed of conventional fluid. The oil is available in 19 L (5 US gallon) containers or 208 L (55 US gallon) drums from your Mobil Distributor.

Important: Many hydraulic fluids are almost colorless, making it difficult to spot leaks. A red dye additive for the hydraulic system oil is available in 20 ml (2/3 oz) bottles. 1 bottle is sufficient for 15 to 22 L (4 to 6 US gallons) of hydraulic oil. Order Part Number 44-2500 from your Toro Distributor.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the cutting units, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. Clean the area around the filler neck and cap of the hydraulic tank (Figure 33).

   

   Figure 33

   1. Hydraulic-tank cap

3. Remove the cap/dipstick from the filler neck and wipe it with a clean rag.

4. Insert the dipstick into the filler neck; then remove it and check the level of fluid.

   Note: The fluid level should be within the operating range on the dipstick.

   Important: Do not overfill.

5. If level is low, add appropriate fluid to raise the level to the FULL mark.

6. Install the cap/dipstick onto the filler neck.

Each day before operating, check the reel-to-bedknife contact, regardless if the quality of cut had previously been acceptable. There must be light contact across the full length of the reel and the bedknife (refer to Adjusting the Reel to Bedknife in the cutting unit Operator's Manual).

Torque the wheel nuts to 94 to 122 N⋅m (70 to 90 ft-lb).

To ensure optimum performance of the parking brake system, burnish (break in) the brakes before use. Set the forward traction speed to 6.4 km/h (4 mph) to match the reverse traction speed (all 8 spacers moved to the top of the mow-speed control). With the engine at high idle, proceed forward with the mow-speed-control stop engaged and ride the brake for 15 seconds. Proceed backward at full reverse speed and ride the brake for 15 seconds. Repeat this 5 times waiting 1 minute between each forward and reverse cycle to avoid overheating the brakes. An adjustment to the brakes may be required after break-in; refer to Adjusting the Parking Brakes.

You must bleed the fuel system before starting the engine if any of the following situations have occurred:

• Initial start-up of a new machine.

• Engine has ceased running due to lack of fuel.

• Maintenance has been performed upon fuel system components; i.e., filter replaced, separator serviced, etc.

1. Park the machine on a level surface and ensure that the fuel tank is at least half full.

2. Open the hood.

3. Open the air-bleed screw on the fuel-injection pump (Figure 34) with a 12 mm wrench.

   

   Figure 34

   1. Bleed screw

4. Turn the key in the ignition switch to the ON position. The electric fuel pump begins operation, thereby forcing air out around the air bleed screw. Leave the key in the ON position until a solid stream of fuel flows out around the screw.

5. Tighten the screw and turn the key to the OFF position.

Note: Normally, the engine should start after the above bleeding procedures are followed. However, if engine does not start, air may be trapped between injection pump and injectors; refer to Bleeding Air from the Fuel Injectors.

Important: You must bleed the fuel system before starting the engine if you are starting the engine for the first time, the engine has shut off due to lack of fuel, or you have performed maintenance on the fuel system; refer to Bleeding the Fuel System.

1. Sit on the seat, keep your foot off the traction pedal so that it is in NEUTRAL, engage the parking brake, set the engine-speed switch to the FAST position, and ensure that the Enable/Disable switch is in the DISABLE position.

2. Turn the key in the ignition switch to the ON/PREHEAT position.

   An automatic timer controls the glow plug preheat for 6 seconds.

3. After preheating the glow plugs, turn the key to the START position.

   Crank the engine for no longer than 15 seconds. Release the key when the engine starts. If additional preheating is required, turn the key to the OFF position and then to the ON/PREHEAT position. Repeat this process as required.

4. Run the engine at low idle speed until it warms up.

1. Move all controls to NEUTRAL, engage the parking brake, move the throttle to the LOW IDLE position and allow the engine to reach low idle speed.

   Important: Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes before shutting it off after a full load operation. Failure to do so may lead to trouble on a turbo-charged engine.

2. Turn the key to the OFF position and remove it from the switch.

To achieve a consistent, high quality-of-cut and a uniform after cut appearance, it is important that you set the reel speed to the proper setting. Adjust the reel speed as follows:

1. In the InfoCenter, under the settings menu, enter the blade count, mow speed, and HOC to calculate the proper reel speed.

2. If further adjustments are required, in the settings menu, scroll down to the F Reel RPM, R Reel RPM, or both.

3. Press the right button to change the reel speed value. As the speed setting is changed, the display continues to show the calculated reel speed based on blade count, mow speed, and HOC, but the new value is also displayed.

   Note: The reel speed may need to be increased or decreased to compensate for varying turf conditions.

Figure 35

5 inch (127 mm) Reel Speed Chart

Figure 36

7 inch (178 mm) Reel Speed Chart

You can adjust the counterbalance on the rear cutting-unit lift arms to compensate for different turf conditions and to maintain a uniform height of cut in the rough conditions or in areas of thatch buildup.

You can adjust each counterbalance spring to 1 of 4 settings. Each increment increases or decreases counterbalance on the cutting unit by 2.3 kg (5 lb). You can position the springs on the back side of the first spring actuator to remove all counter balance (fourth position).

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the cutting units, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. Insert a tube or similar object onto the long spring end and pivot it around the spring actuator to the desired position (Figure 37).

   Caution

   The springs are under tension and could cause personal injury.

   Use caution when adjusting the springs.

   

   Figure 37

   1. Spring
   2. Spring actuator

3. Repeat the procedure on the other spring.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the cutting units, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. The lift-arm switch is located underneath the hydraulic tank behind the front, right lift arm (Figure 38).

3. Loosen the switch-mounting screws and move the switch down to increase the lift-arm turnaround height or move the switch up to decrease the lift-arm turnaround height (Figure 38).

   

   Figure 38

   1. Switch
   2. Lift-arm sensing device

4. Tighten the mounting screws.

The machine is equipped with a diagnostic light, which indicates if the machine detects a malfunction. The diagnostic light is located on the InfoCenter, above the display screen (Figure 39). When the machine is functioning properly and the key switch is moved to the ON/RUN position, the diagnostic light turns on briefly to indicate that the light is working properly. When a machine advisory message appears, the light illuminates when the message is present. When a fault message appears, the light blinks until the fault is resolved.

Figure 39

1. Diagnostic light

The purpose of the interlock switches is to prevent the engine from cranking or starting unless the traction pedal is in the NEUTRAL position, the Enable/Disable switch is in the DISABLE position, and the Lower Mow/Raise control is in the NEUTRAL position. In addition, the engine should stop when you press the traction pedal while you are off the seat or if the parking brake is engaged.

In an emergency, you can move the machine by actuating the bypass valve in the variable displacement hydraulic pump and pushing or towing the machine.

Important: Do not push or tow the machine faster than 3 to 4.8 km/h (2 to 3 mph) because internal transmission damage may occur. The bypass valve must be open whenever you push or tow the machine.

1. Rotate the bypass-valve bolt 1-1/2 turns to open and allow oil to bypass internally (Figure 40).

   Note: The bypass valve is located on the left side of the hydrostat. By bypassing the fluid, you can move the machine slowly without damaging the transmission.

   

   Figure 40

   1. Bypass-valve bolt

2. Close the bypass valve before starting the engine. However, do not exceed 7 to 11 N∙m (5 to 8 ft-lb) torque to close the valve.

   Important: Running the engine with the bypass valve open causes the transmission to overheat.

• Front—the hole in the rectangular pad, under the axle tube, inside each front tire (Figure 41)

  

  Figure 41

  1. Front tie-down

• Rear—each side of the machine on the rear frame (Figure 42)

  

  Figure 42

  1. Rear tie-down

Note: Use jack stands to support the machine when required.

• Front—rectangular pad, under the axle tube, inside each front tire (Figure 43).

  

  Figure 43

  1. Front jacking point

• Rear—rectangular axle tube on the rear axle.

• Use full-width ramps for loading the machine onto a trailer or truck.

• Tie the machine down securely.

Use the list below to identify and describe the different functions of the solenoids in the hydraulic manifold. Each solenoid must be energized to allow the function to occur.

Lubricate all grease fittings for the bearings and bushings with No. 2 lithium grease.

The grease fitting locations and quantities are as follows:

• Pump driveshaft U-joint (3) (Figure 44)

  

  Figure 44

  (Shown with the motor/generator cover removed)

• Cutting-unit lift-arm cylinders (2 each) (Figure 45)

  

  Figure 45

• Lift-arm pivots (1 each) (Figure 45)

• Cutting-unit carrier-frame and pivot (2 each) (Figure 46)

  

  Figure 46

• Lift-arm-pivot shaft (1 each) (Figure 47)

  

  Figure 47

• Rear axle tie rod (2) (Figure 48)

  

  Figure 48

• Axle-steering pivot (1) (Figure 49)

  

  Figure 49

• Steering-cylinder ball joints (2) (Figure 50)

  

  Figure 50

• Brake pedal (1) (Figure 51)

  

  Figure 51

Check the air-cleaner body for damage which could cause an air leak. Replace if damaged. Check the whole intake system for leaks, damage, or loose hose clamps.

Service the air-cleaner filter only when the service indicator requires it (Figure 52). Changing the air filter before it is necessary only increases the chance of dirt entering the engine when you remove the filter.

Important: Make sure that the cover is seated correctly and seals with the air-cleaner body.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the cutting units, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. Release the latches securing the air-cleaner cover to the air-cleaner body (Figure 52).

   

   Figure 52

   1. Air-cleaner cover
   2. Air-cleaner-cover latch
   3. Air-cleaner service indicator

3. Remove the cover from the air-cleaner body.

4. Before removing the filter, use low-pressure air—275 kPa (40 psi), clean and dry—to help remove large accumulations of debris packed between outside of the filter and the canister.

   Important: Avoid using high-pressure air, which could force dirt through the filter into the intake tract.

   Note: This cleaning process prevents debris from migrating into the intake when you remove the filter.

5. Remove and replace the filter (Figure 53).

   Note: Do not clean the used element due to the possibility of damaging the filter media.

   

   Figure 53

   1. Air-cleaner cover
   2. Air-cleaner filter
   3. Air-cleaner indicator

6. Inspect the new filter for shipping damage, checking the sealing end of the filter and the body.

   Important: Do not use a damaged element.

7. Insert the new filter by applying pressure to the outer rim of the element to seat it in the canister.

   Important: Do not apply pressure to the flexible center of the filter.

8. Clean the dirt-ejection port located in the removable cover. Remove the rubber outlet valve from the cover, clean the cavity, and replace the outlet valve.

9. Install the cover orienting the rubber outlet valve in a downward position—between approximately 5 o’clock to 7 o’clock when viewed from the end.

10. Secure the latches.

1. Remove the drain plug (Figure 54) and let the oil flow into a drain pan.

   

   Figure 54

   1. Oil-drain plug

2. When all the oil is drained, install the drain plug.

3. Remove the oil filter (Figure 55).

   

   Figure 55

   1. Oil filter

4. Apply a light coat of clean oil to the new filter seal.

5. Install the replacement oil filter to the filter adapter. Turn the oil filter clockwise until the rubber gasket contacts the filter adapter, then tighten the filter an additional 1/2 turn.

   Important: Do not over-tighten the filter.

6. Add oil to the crankcase; refer to Checking the Engine-Oil Level.

Drain and clean the fuel tank if the fuel system becomes contaminated or if the machine is to be stored for an extended period. Use clean fuel to flush out the tank.

Inspect the fuel lines for deterioration, damage, or loose connections.

1. Place a clean container under the fuel filter.

2. Loosen the drain plug on the bottom of the filter canister.

   

   Figure 56

   1. Water-separator-filter canister

3. Clean the area where the filter canister mounts.

4. Remove the filter canister and clean the mounting surface.

5. Lubricate the gasket on the filter canister with clean oil.

6. Install the filter canister by hand until the gasket contacts the mounting surface, then rotate it an additional 1/2 turn.

7. Tighten the drain plug on the bottom of the filter canister.

The fuel-pickup tube, located inside the fuel tank, comes with a screen to help prevent debris from entering the fuel system. Remove the fuel-pickup tube and clean the screen as required.

Note: Perform this procedure only if the fuel system has been purged of air through normal priming procedures and the engine does not start; refer to Bleeding the Fuel System.

1. Loosen the pipe connection to the No. 1 nozzle and holder assembly (Figure 57).

   

   Figure 57

   1. Fuel injectors

2. Turn the key in the ignition switch to the ON position and watch the fuel flow around the connector. When you observe a solid flow of fuel, turn the key to the OFF position.

3. Tighten the pipe connector securely.

4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 on the remaining nozzles.

Keep the terminals and the entire battery case clean because a dirty battery discharges slowly. To clean the battery, wash the entire case with a solution of baking soda and water. Rinse it with clear water.

There are 8 fuses in the 12 V electrical system. The fuse block (Figure 58) is located behind the control-arm-access panel.

Figure 58

1. Fuse block

Figure 59

There are 6 fuses in the 48 V electrical system. 5 fuses are located in the fuse block (Figure 60) which is under the hood and behind the seat. The sixth fuse (Figure 61) is located under the black cover which is under the seat.

Figure 60

1. Fuse-block cover
2. Fuse block

Figure 61

1. Fuse

Figure 62

The machine must not creep when you release the traction pedal. If it does creep, adjust it as follows:

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the cutting units to the ground, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. Jack up the front of the machine until the front tires are off the ground. Support the machine with jack stands to prevent it from falling accidentally.

   Note: On 4-wheel-drive models, the rear tires must also be off the ground.

3. On the right side of the hydrostat, loosen the locknut on the traction-adjustment cam (Figure 63).

   

   Figure 63

   1. Locknut
   2. Traction-adjustment cam

   Warning

   The engine must be running while you perform the final adjustment on the traction adjustment cam. This could cause personal injury.

   Keep your hands, feet, face, and other body parts away from the muffler, other hot parts of the engine, and any rotating parts.

4. Start the engine and rotate the cam hex in either direction until the wheels stop rotating.

5. Tighten the locknut to secure the adjustment.

6. Shut off the engine, remove the jack stands, and lower the machine to the ground.

7. Test drive the machine to make sure that it does not creep.

1. Rotate the steering wheel to position the rear wheels straight ahead.

2. Loosen the jam nut on each end of the tie rod (Figure 64).

   Note: The end of the tie rod with the external groove is a left-hand thread.

   

   Figure 64

   1. Jam nut
   2. Tie rod
   3. Wrench slot

3. Using the wrench slot, rotate the tie rod.

4. Measure the distance at the front and rear of the rear wheels at axle height.

   Note: The distance at the front of the rear wheels should be less than 6 mm (1/4 inch) of the distance measured at the rear of the wheels.

5. Repeat this procedure as required.

1. Shut off the engine and remove the key from the ignition switch.

2. Thoroughly clean all debris out of the engine area.

3. Unlatch the clamp and pivot open the rear screen (Figure 65).

   

   Figure 65

   1. Rear-screen latch
   2. Rear screen

4. Clean the screen thoroughly with compressed air.

5. Pivot the latches inward to release the oil cooler (Figure 66).

   

   Figure 66

   1. Oil cooler
   2. Oil-cooler latches

6. Thoroughly clean both sides of the oil cooler and the radiator (Figure 67) with compressed air.

   

   Figure 67

   1. Radiator

7. Pivot the oil cooler back into position and secure the latches.

8. Close the screen and secure the latch.

Adjust the brakes when there is more than 25 cm (1 inch) of free travel (Figure 68) of the brake pedal, or when more holding force is required. Free travel is the distance that the brake pedal moves before you feel braking resistance.

Figure 68

1. Free travel

Note: Use the wheel motor backlash to rock the drums back and forth to ensure that the drums are free prior to and after adjustment.

1. To reduce free travel of the brake pedals, tighten the brakes by loosening the front nut on the threaded end of the brake cable (Figure 69).

   

   Figure 69

   1. Brake cables
   2. Front nuts

2. Tighten the rear nut to move the cable backward until brake pedals have 6.3 to 12.7 mm (1/4 to 1/2 inch) of free travel (Figure 68), before the wheel locks up.

3. Tighten the front nuts, ensuring that both cables actuate the brakes simultaneously.

   Note: Ensure that the cable conduit does not rotate while you are tightening the nuts.

If the parking brake fails to engage and latch, an adjustment to the brake pawl is required.

1. Loosen the 2 screws securing the parking-brake pawl to the frame (Figure 70).

   

   Figure 70

   1. Brake cables
   2. Screws (2)
   3. Parking-brake pawl
   4. Brake detent

2. Press the parking-brake pedal forward until the brake detent completely engages on the brake pawl (Figure 70).

3. Tighten the 2 screws to lock the adjustment.

4. Press the brake pedal to release the parking brake.

5. Check the adjustment and adjust as required.

1. Open the hood.

2. Check the tension of the alternator belt by depressing it (Figure 71) midway between the alternator and the crankshaft pulleys with 10 kg (22 lb) of force.

   

   Figure 71

   1. Brace
   2. Alternator belt
   3. Pivot bolt

   The belt should deflect 11 mm (7/16 inch). If the deflection is incorrect, proceed to step 3. If correct, continue operation.

3. Loosen the bolt securing the brace to the engine (Figure 71), the bolt securing the alternator to the brace and the pivot bolt.

4. Insert a pry bar between the alternator and the engine and pry out on the alternator.

5. When you achieve the proper tension, tighten the alternator, brace, and pivot bolts to secure the adjustment.

If fluid becomes contaminated, contact your Toro Distributor because the system must be flushed. Contaminated fluid looks milky or black when compared to clean oil.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the cutting units, shut off the engine, engage the parking brake, and remove the key.

2. Raise the hood.

3. Place a large drain pan under the fitting secured to the bottom of the hydraulic-fluid reservoir (Figure 72).

   

   Figure 72

   1. Hose

4. Disconnect the hose from the bottom of the fitting and let the hydraulic fluid flow into the drain pan.

5. Install the hose when hydraulic fluid stops draining.

6. Fill the reservoir with approximately 41.6 L (11 US gallons) of hydraulic fluid; refer to Checking the Hydraulic Fluid.

   Important: Use only hydraulic fluids specified. Other fluids could damage the system.

7. Install the reservoir cap.

8. Start the engine and use all of the hydraulic controls to distribute hydraulic fluid throughout the system. Also, check for leaks.

9. Shut off the engine.

10. Check the level of the hydraulic fluid and add enough to raise level to the FULL mark on the dipstick.

    Important: Do not overfill.

Important: Use of any other filters may void the warranty on some components.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the cutting units, shut off the engine, engage the parking brake, and remove the key.

2. Clean the area around the filter-mounting area and place a drain pan under the filter (Figure 73).

   

   Figure 73

   1. Hydraulic filter

3. Remove the filter.

4. Lubricate the gasket on the new filter with hydraulic oil.

5. Ensure that the filter-mounting area is clean.

6. Install the filter by hand until the gasket contacts the mounting surface, then rotate it an additional 1/2 turn.

7. Start the engine and let it run for about 2 minutes to purge air from the system.

8. Shut off the engine and check for leaks.

Check the hydraulic lines and hoses for leaks, kinked lines, loose mounting supports, wear, loose fittings, weather deterioration, and chemical deterioration. Make all necessary repairs before operating.

Use the hydraulic system test ports to test the pressure in the hydraulic circuits. Contact your Toro Distributor for assistance.

Use the test ports on the front hydraulic tubes (Figure 74) to assist in troubleshooting the traction circuit.

Figure 74

1. Traction-circuit test port

Use the test port on the gear pump (Figure 75) to assist in troubleshooting the lift circuit.

Figure 75

1. Lift-circuit test port
2. Charge-pressure circuit

Use the test port on the hydraulic tube (Figure 75) to assist in troubleshooting the charge-pressure circuit.

Note: When backlapping, the front units all operate together, and the rear units operate together.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the cutting units, shut off the engine, engage the parking brake, and move the Enable/Disable switch to DISABLE position.

2. To activate the backlap function on the InfoCenter service menu, proceed as follows:

   1. With the engine off, but the key in the run position, access the Main Menu of the InfoCenter.

   2. From the Main Menu, scroll down to Service Menu using the center button and select it using the right button.

   3. In the Service Menu, scroll down to Front Backlap, Rear Backlap, and activate front, rear or both by using the right button to turn the desired set of cutting units from OFF to ON.

   4. Press the left button to save the settings and exit the Settings menu.

3. Make initial reel-to-bedknife adjustments appropriate for backlapping on all cutting units which are to be backlapped; refer to the cutting unit Operator's Manual.

4. Start the engine and run at low idle speed.

   Danger

   Changing the engine speed while backlapping may cause the reels to stall.

   • Never change the engine speed while backlapping.

   • Only backlap at idle engine speed.

5. With the Mow/Transport lever in the MOW position, move the Enable/Disable switch to the ENABLE position. Move the Lower Mow/Lift control forward to start the backlapping operation on the designated reels.

6. Apply lapping compound with a long-handled brush.

   Important: Never use a short-handled brush.

7. If the reels stall or become erratic while backlapping, select a higher reel speed setting until the speed stabilizes, then return the reel speed to your desired speed. This can be done using the buttons on the InfoCenter.

8. To make an adjustment to the cutting units while backlapping, turn the reels off by moving the Lower Mow/Raise lever rearward; the Enable/Disable switch to the DISABLE position, and shut off the engine. After completing adjustments, repeat steps through .

9. Repeat the procedure for all cutting units you want to backlap.

10. When finished, turn off the backlap functions, using the buttons in the InfoCenter, and wash all lapping compound off the cutting units. Adjust cutting unit reel to bedknife as needed. Adjust the cutting unit reel speed to the desired mowing setting.

    Important: If you do not return the backlap function to the OFF setting after backlapping, the cutting units do not raise or function properly.

    Note: For a better cutting edge, run a file across the front face of the bedknife after lapping. This removes any burrs or rough edges that may have built up on the cutting edge.