Maintenance
Recommended Maintenance Schedule(s)
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
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After the first 8 operating hours |
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After the first 100 operating hours |
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After the first 250 operating hours |
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Before each use or daily |
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Every 50 hours |
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Every 100 hours |
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Every 150 hours |
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Every 200 hours |
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Every 250 hours |
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Every 300 hours |
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Every 500 hours |
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Every 600 hours |
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Monthly |
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Yearly |
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Yearly or before storage |
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Important: Refer to your engine operator's manual for additional maintenance procedures.
Caution
If you leave the key in the ignition switch, someone could accidently start the engine and seriously injure you or other bystanders.
Remove the key from the ignition before you do any maintenance.
Lubrication
Grease more frequently when operating conditions are extremely dusty or sandy.
Grease Type: No. 2 general-purpose, lithium-based or molybdenum-based grease
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Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the neutral locked position and set the parking brake.
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Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.
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Clean the grease fittings with a rag. Make sure to scrape any paint off the front of the fitting(s).
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Connect a grease gun to the fitting. Pump grease into the fittings until grease begins to ooze out of the bearings.
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Wipe up any excess grease.
Adding Light Oil or Spray Lubrication
Lubricate the deck-lift pivots.
Greasing the Mower
Important: Make sure that the cutting unit spindles are full of grease weekly.
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Disengage the blade control switch (PTO), move the motion control levers to the neutral locked position, and set the parking brake.
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Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.
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Grease the mower deck idler pulley pivot until grease come out the bottom (Figure 39).
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Grease the 3 spindle bearings until grease comes out the lower seals (Figure 39).
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Grease the drive belt idler arm (Figure 39).
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Remove the dust cap and adjust the caster pivots.
Note: Keep the dust cap off until greasing is complete. Refer to Adjusting the Caster-Pivot Bearing.
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Remove the hex plug and thread a grease fitting into the hole.
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Pump grease into the fitting until it oozes out around the top bearing.
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Remove the grease fitting from the hole.
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Install the hex plug and dust cap (Figure 41).
Lubricate the Caster-Wheel Hubs
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Stop the engine, wait for all moving parts to stop, and remove the key. Engage the parking brake.
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Raise the front of the machine up and support it with jack stands.
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Remove the caster wheel from the caster forks.
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Remove the seal guards from the wheel hub.
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Remove 1 of the spacer nuts from the axle assembly in the caster wheel.
Note: Note that thread locking adhesive has been applied to lock the spacer nuts to the axle. Remove the axle (with the other spacer nut still assembled to it) from the wheel assembly.
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Pry out the seals, and inspect the bearings for wear or damage and replace if necessary.
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Pack the bearings with a general-purpose grease.
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Insert 1 bearing and 1 new seal into the wheel.
Note: The seals must be replaced.
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If the axle assembly has had both spacer nuts removed (or broken loose), apply a thread locking adhesive to 1 spacer nut and thread it onto the axle with the wrench flats facing outward.
Note: Do not thread the spacer nut all of the way onto the end of the axle. Leave approximately 3 mm (1/8 inch) from the outer surface of the spacer nut to the end of the axle inside the nut.
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Insert the assembled nut and axle into the wheel on the side of the wheel with the new seal and bearing.
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With the open end of the wheel facing up, fill the area inside the wheel around the axle full of general-purpose grease.
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Insert the second bearing and new seal into the wheel.
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Apply a thread locking adhesive to the second spacer nut and thread it onto the axle with the wrench flats facing outward.
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Torque the nut to 8-9 N-m (75-80 in-lb), loosen, then re-torque to 2-3 N-m (20-25 in-lb).
Note: Make sure that the axle does not extend beyond either nut.
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Install the seal guards over the wheel hub and insert the wheel into the caster fork. Install the caster bolt and tighten the nut fully.
Important: To prevent seal and bearing damage, check the bearing adjustment often. Spin the caster tire. The tire should not spin freely (more than 1 or 2 revolutions) or have any side play. If the wheel spins freely, adjust the torque on the spacer nut until there is a slight amount of drag. Apply thread locking adhesive.
Engine Maintenance
Servicing the Air Cleaner
Note: Check the filters more frequently if the operating conditions are extremely dusty or sandy.
Removing the Filters
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Disengage the PTO, move the motion-control levers to the neutral-locked position, and set the parking brake.
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Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.
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Release the latches on the air cleaner, and pull the air-inlet cover off the air-cleaner body (Figure 43).
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Clean the air-inlet screen and cover.
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Install the air-inlet cover and secure it with the latches (Figure 43).
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Release the latches on the air cleaner and pull the air-cleaner cover off the air-cleaner body (Figure 44).
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Clean the inside of the air-cleaner cover with compressed air.
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Gently slide the primary filter out of the air-cleaner body (Figure 44).
Note: Avoid knocking the filter into the side of the body.
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Remove the inner filter only if you intend to replace it.
Important: Never attempt to clean the inner filter. If the safety filter is dirty, then the primary filter is damaged. Replace both filters.
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Inspect the primary filter for damage by looking into the filter, while shining a bright light on the outside of the filter.
Note: Holes in the filter will appear as bright spots. If the filter is damaged, discard it.
Servicing the Primary Filter
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If the primary filter is dirty, bent, or damaged, replace it.
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Do not clean the primary filter.
Servicing the Safety Filter
Replace the safety filter, never clean it.
Important: Do not attempt to clean the safety filter. If the safety filter is dirty, then the primary filter is damaged. Replace both filters.
Installing the Filters
Important: To prevent engine damage, always operate the engine with both air filters and the cover installed.
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If installing new filters, check each filter for shipping damage.
Note: Do not use a damaged filter.
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If the inner filter is being replaced, carefully slide it into the filter body (Figure 44).
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Carefully slide the primary filter over the inner filter (Figure 44).
Note: Ensure that the primary filter is fully seated by pushing on the outer rim while installing it.
Important: Do not press on the soft, inside area of the filter.
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Install the air-cleaner cover and secure the latches (Figure 44).
Servicing the Engine Oil
Oil Type: Detergent oil (API service SJ or higher)
Oil Capacity for 74959 engine: with a filter change, 1.65L (56 oz); with no filter change, 1.5L (51 oz)
Viscosity: See the table below.
Note: Use of synthetic oil having 5W-20 or 5W-30 rating is acceptable, up to 4 degrees C (40 degrees F).
Note: Synthetic oils will provide better starting in extreme cold below -23 degrees C (-10 degrees F).
Checking the Engine-Oil Level
Note: Check the oil when the engine is cold.
Warning
Contact with hot surfaces may cause personal injury.
Keep hands, feet, face, clothing, and other body parts away from the muffler and other hot surfaces.
Important: Do not overfill the crankcase with oil because damage to the engine may result. Do not run engine with oil below the Low mark because the engine may be damaged.
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Disengage the PTO, move the motion-control levers to the neutral-locked position, and set the parking brake.
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Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position (Figure 46).
Changing the Engine Oil
Note: Dispose of the used oil at a recycling center.
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Start the engine and let it run for 5 minutes.
Note: This warms the oil so it drains better.
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Park the machine so that the rear is slightly lower than the front to ensure that the oil drains completely.
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Disengage the PTO, move the motion-control levers to the neutral-locked position, and set the parking brake.
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Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position (Figure 47).
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Slowly pour approximately 80% of the specified oil into the filler tube and slowly add the additional oil to bring it to the Full mark (Figure 48).
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Start the engine and drive to a flat area.
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Check the oil level again.
Changing the Engine-Oil Filter
Note: Change the engine-oil filter more frequently when operating conditions are extremely dusty or sandy.
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Drain the oil from the engine; refer to Changing the Engine Oil.
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Change the engine-oil filter (Figure 49).
Note: Ensure the oil-filter gasket touches the engine, and then an extra 3/4 turn is completed.
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Fill the crankcase with the proper type of new oil; refer to Changing the Engine Oil.
Servicing the Spark Plug
Make sure the air gap between the center and side electrodes is correct before installing the spark plug. Use a spark plug wrench for removing and installing the spark plug(s) and a gapping tool/feeler gauge to check and adjust the air gap. Install a new spark plug(s) if necessary.
Type : Champion® XC12YC, or equivalent
Air Gap: 0.76 mm (0.030 inch)
Removing the Spark Plug
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Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.
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Disengage the PTO, move the motion-control levers to the neutral locked position and set the parking brake.
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Remove the left hydraulic unit shroud in the order listed with Figure 50. This gives you access to the front spark plug.
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Remove the spark plug.
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Install the left hydraulic unit shroud (Figure 50).
Checking the Spark Plug
Important: Replace the spark plug(s) when it has: a black coating, worn electrodes, an oily film, cracks or reuse is questionable.
If you see light brown or gray on the insulator, the engine is operating properly. A black coating on the insulator usually means the air cleaner is dirty.
Set the gap to 0.76 mm (0.030 inches).
Installing the Spark Plug
Tighten the spark plug(s) to 24.4–29.8 N-m (18-22 ft.-lb).
Check the Spark Arrester (if equipped)
Warning
Hot exhaust system components may ignite gasoline vapors even after the engine is stopped. Hot particles exhausted during engine operation may ignite flammable materials. Fire may result in personal injury or property damage.
Do not refuel or run engine unless spark arrester is installed.
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Stop the engine, wait for all moving parts to stop, and remove the key. Engage the parking brake.
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Wait for the machine to cool.
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If there are any breaks in the screen or welds are observed, replace the arrester.
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If the screen is plugged, remove the arrester and shake loose any particles out of the arrester and clean the screen with a wire brush (soak in solvent if necessary). Install the arrester on an exhaust outlet.
Fuel System Maintenance
Replacing the Fuel Filter
The fuel filter is located near the engine on the front or rear side of the engine.
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Disengage the PTO, move the motion-control levers to the neutral locked position, and set the parking brake.
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Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.
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Allow the machine to cool down.
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Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.
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Close the fuel shutoff valve under the seat (Figure 54).
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Squeeze the ends of the hose clamps together and slide them away from the filter (Figure 54).
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Remove the filter from the fuel lines.
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Install a new filter and move the hose clamps close to the filter (Figure 54).
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Open the fuel shutoff valve.
Note: It is important to reinstall the fuel line hoses and secure with plastic ties the same as they were originally installed at the factory to keep the fuel line away from components that can cause fuel line damage.
Servicing the Fuel Tank
Do not attempt to drain the fuel tank. Ensure that an Authorized Service Dealer drains the fuel tank and services any components of the fuel system.
Electrical System Maintenance
Servicing the Battery
Danger
Battery electrolyte contains sulfuric acid which is a deadly poison and causes severe burns.
Do not drink electrolyte and avoid contact with skin, eyes or clothing. Wear safety glasses to shield your eyes and rubber gloves to protect your hands.
Removing the Battery
Warning
Battery terminals or metal tools could short against metal machine components causing sparks. Sparks can cause the battery gasses to explode, resulting in personal injury.
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When removing or installing the battery, do not allow the battery terminals to touch any metal parts of the machine.
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Do not allow metal tools to short between the battery terminals and metal parts of the machine.
Warning
Incorrect battery cable routing could damage the machine and cables causing sparks. Sparks can cause the battery gasses to explode, resulting in personal injury.
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Always Disconnect the negative (black) battery cable before disconnecting the positive (red) cable.
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Always Reconnect the positive (red) battery cable before reconnecting the negative (black) cable.
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Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the neutral locked position and set the parking brake.
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Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.
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First disconnect the negative battery cable (black) from the negative (-)(black) battery terminal (Figure 55).
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Slide the red terminal boot off the positive (red) battery terminal and remove the positive (+)(red) battery cable (Figure 55).
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Remove the wing nut securing the battery clamp (Figure 55).
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Remove the clamp (Figure 55).
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Remove the battery.
Installing the Battery
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Position battery in the tray with the terminal posts opposite from the hydraulic tank (Figure 55).
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First, install the positive (red) battery cable to positive (+) battery terminal.
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Then install the negative (black) battery cable and ground wire to the negative (-) battery terminal.
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Secure the cables with 2bolts, 2washers, and 2locknuts (Figure 55).
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Slide the red terminal boot onto the positive (red) battery post.
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Install the clamp and secure it with the wing nut (Figure 55).
Charging the Battery
Warning
Charging the battery produces gasses that can explode.
Never smoke near the battery and keep sparks and flames away from battery.
Important: Always keep the battery fully charged (1.265specific gravity). This is especially important to prevent battery damage when the temperature is below 32°F (0°C).
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Charge battery for 10 to 15minutes at 25 to 30 amps or 30 minutes at 10amps.
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When the battery is fully charged, unplug the charger from the electrical outlet, then disconnect the charger leads from the battery posts (Figure 56).
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Install the battery in the machine and connect the battery cables, refer to Installing the Battery.
Note: Do not run the machine with the battery disconnected, electrical damage may occur.
Servicing the Fuses
The electrical system is protected by fuses. It requires no maintenance, however, if a fuse blows check the component/circuit for a malfunction or short.
Drive System Maintenance
Checking the Seat Belt
Visually inspect seat belt for wear, cuts, and proper operation of retractor and buckle. Replace before operating if damaged.
Checking the Rollover Protection System (ROPS) Knobs
Warning
To avoid injury or death from rollover: keep the roll bar in the fully raised locked position and use the seat belt.
Ensure the seat is secured to the machine.
Check that both the mounting hardware and the knobs are in good working condition. Make sure the knobs are fully engaged with the ROPS in the raised position. The upper hoop of the roll bar may need to be pushed forward or pulled rearward to get both knobs fully engaged.
Adjusting the Tracking
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Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO).
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Drive to an open flat area, move the motion-control levers to the neutral locked position.
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Move the throttle midway between fast and slow.
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Move both motion-control levers all the way forward until they both hit the stops in the T-slot.
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Check which way the machine tracks.
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If it tracks to the right, loosen the bolts and adjust the left stop plate rearward on the left T-slot until the machine tracks straight (Figure 59).
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If it tracks to the left, loosen the bolts and adjust the right stop plate rearward on the right T-slot until the machine tracks straight (Figure 59).
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Tighten the stop plate (Figure 59).
Checking the Tire Pressure
Maintain the air pressure in the front and rear tires at 90 kPa (13 psi). Uneven tire pressure can cause uneven cut. Check the tires when they are cold to get the most accurate pressure reading.
Checking the Wheel Lug Nuts
Check and torque the wheel lug nuts to 122-129 N-m (90-95 ft-lb).
Checking the Wheel Hub Slotted Nut
Check and ensure that the torque of the slotted nut is 286 to 352 N-m (211 to 260 ft-lb).
Note: Do not use anti-seize on wheel hub.
Adjusting the Caster-Pivot Bearing
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Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the neutral locked position and set the parking brake.
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Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.
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Remove the dust cap from caster and tighten locknut (Figure 62).
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Tighten the locknut until the spring washers are flat and then back off a 1/4turn to properly set the pre-load on the bearings (Figure 62).
Important: Make sure the spring washers are installed correctly as shown in Figure 62.
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Install the dust cap (Figure 62).
Using the Clutch Shim
Some later model year units have been built with clutches that contain a brake shim. When the clutch brake has worn to the point where the clutch no longer engages consistently, the shim can be removed to extend the clutch life.
Removing the Clutch Shim
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Stop the engine, wait for all moving parts to stop, and remove the key.
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Engage the parking brake and allow the machine to cool completely before starting these instructions.
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Using an air compressor, blow out any debris from under the brake pole and around the brake spacers.
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Check the condition of the wire harness leads, connectors, and terminals. Clean or repair as necessary.
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Verify that 12V is present at the clutch connector when the PTO switch is engaged.
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Measure the gap between the rotor and armature. If the gap is greater than 1 mm (0.04 inch), proceed with the following steps:
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Loosen both brake mounting bolts one-half to one full turn as shown below.
Note: Do not remove the brake pole from the field shell/armature. The brake pole has worn to match the armature and needs to continue to match after the shim is removed to ensure proper brake torque.
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Using needle nose pliers, or by hand, take hold of the tab, and remove the shim (Do not discard the shim until proper clutch function has been confirmed).
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Using a pneumatic line, blow out any debris from under the brake pole and around the brake spacers.
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Re-torque each bolt (M6 x 1) to 13 N-m (10 ft-lb +/-0.7 N-m (0.5 ft-lb).
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Using a 0.010 inch thick feeler gauge, verify that a gap is present between the rotor and armature face on both sides of the brake pole as shown.
Note: Due to the way the rotor and armature faces wear (peaks and valleys) it is sometimes difficult to measure the true gap.
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If the gap is less than 0.010 inch, then reinstall the shim and reference the section.
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If the gap is sufficient, proceed to the safety check in step 6.
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Perform the following safety check:
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Sit on the seat and start the engine.
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Make sure the blades Do not engage with the PTO switch “off” and the clutch disengaged.
If the clutch does not disengage, install the shim, and reference the section.
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Engage and disengage the PTO switch 10 consecutive times to ensure the clutch is functioning properly. If the clutch does not engage properly, reference the section.
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Cooling System Maintenance
Cleaning the Engine Screen and Engine-Oil Cooler
Remove any build-up of grass, dirt, or other debris from the oil cooler (Figure 69).
Before each use remove any build-up of grass, dirt, or other debris from the engine screen. This will help ensure adequate cooling and correct engine speed and will reduce the possibility of overheating and mechanical damage to the engine (Figure 70).
Cleaning the Engine-Cooling Fins and Shrouds
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Disengage the PTO and set the parking brake.
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Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.
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Remove the air intake screen, recoil starter, and fan housing (Figure 70).
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Clean the debris and grass from the engine parts.
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Install air intake screen, recoil starter, and fan housing (Figure 70).
Check and Clean the Hydraulic Units
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Disengage the PTO and set the parking brake.
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Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.
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Move the seat forward.
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Clean the debris and grass from the hydraulic units (Figure 71).
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Position the seat.
Brake Maintenance
Adjusting the Parking Brake
Check to make sure the brake is adjusted properly before adjusting.
Note: This procedure must be followed after the first 100 hours or when a brake component has been removed or replaced.
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Drive the machine onto a level surface.
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Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the neutral locked position and engage the parking brake.
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Stop the engine, wait for all moving parts to stop, and remove the key.
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Raise the back of the machine up and support the machine with jack stands.
Danger
Mechanical or hydraulic jacks may fail to support machine and cause a serious injury.
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Use jack stand when supporting machine.
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Do not use hydraulic jacks.
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Remove the rear tires from the machine.
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Remove any debris from the brake area.
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Rotate the drive wheel release handle to the released position. Refer to Using the Drive-Wheel-Release Valves.
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Check to see if there is a visible gap between the L-bracket and the linkage stop (Figure 72).
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Disengage the parking brake, the lever should be in the down position.
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Turn the wheel hub by hand in both directions relative to the caliper; the wheel hub should move freely between the caliper.
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If a gap is needed or the wheel hub does not move freely:
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Disengage the parking brake.
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Disconnect and fine-tune the rear linkage assembly:
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Shorten the link to create a gap.
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Lengthen the link to allow wheel hub movement.
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Reconnect the rear linkage assembly.
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Engage the parking brake and check the gap.
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Repeat steps 9 through 13 until a visible gap is achieved and the wheel hub rotates freely.
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Repeat this procedure for the brake on the opposite side.
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Rotate the drive-wheel release handle to the operating position. Refer toUsing the Drive-Wheel-Release Valves.
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Install the rear tires and torque the lug nuts. Refer to Checking the Wheel Lug Nuts.
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Remove the jack stands.
Belt Maintenance
Inspecting the Belts
Check the belts for squealing when the belt is rotating, blades slipping when cutting grass, frayed belt edges, burn marks, and cracks are signs of a worn mower belt. Replace the mower belt if any of these conditions are evident.
Replacing the Mower Belt
Squealing when the belt is rotating, blades slipping when cutting grass, frayed belt edges, burn marks and cracks are signs of a worn mower belt. Replace the mower belt if any of these conditions are evident.
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Disengage the PTO, move the motion-control levers to the neutral locked position, and set the parking brake.
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Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.
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Lower the mower to the 76 mm (3 inch) height of cut.
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Remove the belt covers (Figure 73).
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Use a ratchet in the square hole in the idler arm to remove tension on the idler spring (Figure 74).
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Remove the belt from the mower deck pulleys.
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Remove the belt guide on the spring loaded idler arm shown in Figure 74.
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Remove the existing belt.
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Install the new belt around the mower pulleys and the clutch pulley under the engine (Figure 74).
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Install the belt guide on the idler arm shown in Figure 74.
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Using the ratchet in the square hole, install the idler spring (Figure 74).
Make sure that the spring ends are seated in the anchor grooves.
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Install the belt covers (Figure 75).
Replacing the Hydraulic Pump-Drive Belt
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Disengage the PTO and set the parking brake.
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Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.
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Remove mower belt. Refer to Replacing the Mower Belt.
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Raise the machine and support it with jack stands (Figure 76).
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Use a ratchet in the square hole in the idler arm to remove the idler spring (Figure 76).
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Unhook the idler spring from the frame (Figure 76).
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Remove the belt from the hydraulic unit drive pulleys and the engine pulley
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Install the new belt around engine pulley and the 2 drive pulleys.
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Using a ratchet in the square hole in the idler arm, install the idler spring to the frame (Figure 76).
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Install the mower belt. Refer to Replacing the Mower Belt.
Controls System Maintenance
Adjusting the Control-Handle Position
There are 2 height positions for the control levers; high and low. Remove the bolts to adjust the height for the operator.
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Disengage the PTO, move the motion-control levers to the neutral locked position, and set the parking brake.
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Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.
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Loosen the bolts and flange nuts installed in the levers (Figure 77).
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Align the levers front to rear position by bring the levers together to the neutral position and slide them until they are aligned, then tighten the bolts (Figure 78).
Adjusting the Motion-Control Linkage
Located on either side of the fuel tank, below the seat are the pump-control linkages. Rotating the pump linkage with a 1/2 inch wrench allows fine-tuning adjustments so that the machine does not move in neutral. Any adjustments should be made for neutral positioning only.
Warning
The engine must be running and the drive wheels must be turning so that the motion-control adjustment can be performed. Contact with moving parts or hot surfaces may cause personal injury.
Keep fingers, hands, and clothing clear of rotating components and hot surfaces.
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Prior to starting the engine, push the deck-lift pedal and remove the height-of-cut pin. Lower the deck to the ground.
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Raise the rear of machine up and support it with jack stands (or equivalent support) just high enough to allow the drive wheels to turn freely.
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Remove the electrical connection from the seat safety switch, located under the bottom cushion of the seat.
Note: The switch is a part of the seat assembly.
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Temporarily install a jumper wire across the terminals in the connector of the main wiring harness.
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Start the engine.
Note: The brake must be engaged and the motion-control levers must be out to start the engine. The operator does not have to be in the seat because of the jumper wire being used. Run the engine at full throttle and release the brake.
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Run the machine at least 5 minutes with the motion-control levers at full forward speed to bring the hydraulic oil up to operating temperature.
Note: The motion-control lever needs to be in neutral while making any necessary adjustments.
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Bring the motion-control levers into the neutral position.
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Adjust the pump-control rod lengths by rotating the double nuts on the rod in the appropriate direction until the wheels slightly creep in reverse (Figure 79).
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Move the motion-control levers to the reverse position, and while applying slight pressure to the lever, allow the reverse indicator springs to bring the levers back to neutral.
Note: The wheels must stop turning or slightly creep in reverse.
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Shut off the machine. Remove the jumper wire from wire harness and plug the connector into the seat switch.
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Remove the jack stands.
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Raise the deck and install the height-of-cut pin.
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Check that the machine does not creep in neutral with the park brakes disengaged.
Adjusting the Motion-Control Damper
The top damper-mounting bolt can be adjusted to obtain a more desired motion-control lever resistance. See Figure 80 for mounting options.
Adjusting the Motion-Control Neutral-Lock Pivot
The flanged nut can be adjusted to obtain a more desired motion-control lever resistance when moving it to the neutral lock position. See Figure 81 for adjustment options.
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Loosen the jam nut.
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Tighten or loosen the flanged nut to the desired feel.
For more resistance, tighten the flanged nut.
For less resistance, loosen the flanged nut
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Tighten the jam nut.
Hydraulic System Maintenance
Servicing the Hydraulic System
Hydraulic Oil Type: Toro® HYPR-OIL ™ 500 hydraulic oil or Mobil® 1 15W-50.
Important: Use oil specified. Other fluids could cause system damage.
Each Hydraulic System Oil Capacity: 52 ounces (1.5 l) per side with filter change
Checking the Hydraulic Oil
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Position the machine on a level surface.
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Disengage the PTO, move the motion-control levers to the neutral-locked position, and set the parking brake.
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Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.
-
Allow the engine and hydraulic system to cool for 10 minutes.
Note: The oil level on the dipstick will be incorrect if the oil is checked when the machine is hot.
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Move the seat forward.
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Clean the area around the dipsticks of the hydraulic system reservoirs (Figure 82).
-
Remove one dipstick from the hydraulic reservoir (Figure 82).
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Wipe the dipstick off and thread the dipstick into the reservoir.
-
Remove the dipstick and look at the end (Figure 82).
Note: If the oil level is at the add mark, slowly pour only enough oil into the hydraulic reservoir to raise the level to the full or H line.
Important: Do not overfill the hydraulic units with oil as damage may occur. Do not run the machine with the oil below the add mark.
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Install the dipstick.
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Repeat procedure for the opposite dipstick.
Warning
Hydraulic oil escaping under pressure can penetrate skin and cause injury.
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If hydraulic oil is injected into the skin it must be surgically removed within a few hours by a doctor familiar with this type of injury. Gangrene may result if this is not done.
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Keep body and hands away from pin hole leaks or nozzles that eject high pressure hydraulic oil.
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Use cardboard or paper to find hydraulic leaks.
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Safely relieve all pressure in the hydraulic system before performing any work on the hydraulic system.
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Make sure that all hydraulic oil hoses and lines are in good condition and that all hydraulic connections and fittings are tight before applying pressure to the hydraulic system.
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Replacing the Hydraulic Filters and Hydraulic Oil
To replace the hydraulic oil, the filters need to be removed. Replace both at the same time; refer to Servicing the Hydraulic System for the oil specifications.
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Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the neutral-locked position, and set the parking brake.
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Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.
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Raise the machine and support it with jack stands (Figure 83).
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Remove both the mower belt and the pump-drive belt; refer to Replacing the Mower Belt and Replacing the Hydraulic Pump-Drive Belt.
Note: This prevents oil from getting on the belts.
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Place a drain pan under the filter, remove the old filter, and wipe the surface clean (Figure 84).
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Apply a thin coat of hydraulic oil to the rubber gasket on the replacement filter (Figure 84).
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Install the replacement hydraulic filter.
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Install the pump-drive belt and the mower belt.
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Remove the jack stands and lower the machine (Figure 83).
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Add oil to the hydraulic reservoir and check for any leaks.
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Clean up any spilled oil.
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Start the engine and let it run for about 2 minutes to purge air from the system.
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Stop the engine and check for leaks.
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Check the oil level while the oil is cold.
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If required, add oil to the hydraulic reservoir.
Note: Do not overfill.
Leveling the Mower Deck
Setting Up the Machine
Note: Ensure the mower deck is leveled before matching the height-of-cut (HOC).
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Position mower on a flat surface.
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Disengage the blade control switch (PTO), move the motion control levers to the neutral locked position and set the parking brake.
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Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.
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Check tire pressure of the tires. If needed, adjust to 90 kPa (13psi).
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Position the mower to the 76mm (3inch) height-of-cut position.
Leveling the Deck
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Position the mower on a flat surface.
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Stop engine, wait for all moving parts to stop, and remove key. Engage parking brake.
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Check the tire pressure in the drive tires. Proper inflation pressure for tires is 90 kPa (13 psi). Adjust if necessary.
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Position the transport lock in the latching position.
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Push the deck-lift pedal all the way forward and the deck will latch at the 14 cm (5 1/2 inch) transport position (Figure 85).
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Insert the height adjustment pin into the 7.6 cm (3 inch) cutting height location.
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Release the transport lock and allow the deck to lower to the cutting height.
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Raise the discharge chute.
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On both sides of the deck, measure from the level surface to the front tip of the blade (Postion A). The measurement should read 7.6 mm (3 inches) (Figure 86).
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If needed, loosen the whizlock nut on the side of the yoke and the jam nut on top. Fine tune the screw adjuster by turning it to get 7.6 mm (3 inch) height (see Figure 87).
To increase the height, turn the adjuster screw clockwise; to decrease, turn counterclockwise.
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If the front deck links do not have enough adjustment to achieve accurate cut height , the single point adjustment can be utilized to gain more adjustment.
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To adjust the single point system, loosen the two bolts at the bottom of the height of cut plate. Refer to Figure 88.
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If the deck is too low, tighten the single point adjustment bolt by rotating it clockwise. If the deck is too high, loosen the single point adjustment bolt by rotating it counterclockwise (Figure 89).
Note: Loosen or tighten the single point adjustment bolt enough to move the height-of-cut plate mounting bolts at least 1/3 the length of the available travel in their slots. This will regain some up and down adjustment on each of the four deck links.
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Tighten the two bolts at the bottom of the height of cut plate (Figure 88). Torque to 37-45 N-m (27-33 ft-lb).
Note: In most conditions, the back blade tip should be adjusted 6.4 mm (1/4 inch) higher than the front.
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On both sides of the deck, measure from the level surface to the back tip of the blade (Postion B). The measurement should read 8.3 cm (3 1/4 inches) (Figure 86).
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Fine tune the screw adjuster by turning it to get 8.3 mm (3–1/4 inches) height (Figure 87).
To increase the height, turn the adjustment nut clockwise; to decrease, turn counterclockwise.
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Measure until all four sides are the correct height. Tighten all the nuts on the deck-lift arm assemblies.
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Lower discharge chute.
Servicing the Cutting Blades
Maintain sharp blades throughout the cutting season because sharp blades cut cleanly without tearing or shredding the grass blades. Tearing and shredding turns grass brown at the edges, which slows growth and increases the chance of disease.
Check the cutter blades daily for sharpness, and for any wear or damage. File down any nicks and sharpen the blades as necessary. If a blade is damaged or worn, replace it immediately with a genuine Toro replacement blade. For convenient sharpening and replacement, you may want to keep extra blades on hand.
Danger
A worn or damaged blade can break, and a piece of the blade could be thrown into the operator's or bystander's area, resulting in serious personal injury or death.
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Inspect the blade periodically for wear or damage.
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Replace a worn or damaged blade.
Before Inspecting or Servicing the Blades
Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade control switch (PTO), and set the parking brake. Turn the ignition key to off. Remove the key.
Inspecting the Blades
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Inspect the cutting edges (Figure 90). If the edges are not sharp or have nicks, remove and sharpen the blades. Refer to Servicing the Cutting Blades.
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Inspect the blades, especially the curved area (Figure 90). If you notice any damage, wear, or a slot forming in this area (Figure 90), immediately install a new blade.
Checking for Bent Blades
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Disengage the blade control switch (PTO), move the motion control levers to the neutral locked position and set the parking brake.
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Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.
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Rotate the blades until the ends face forward and backward (Figure 91). Measure from a level surface to the cutting edge, position A, of the blades (Figure 91). Note this dimension.
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Rotate the opposite ends of the blades forward.
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Measure from a level surface to the cutting edge of the blades at the same position as in step3 above. The difference between the dimensions obtained in steps3 and4 must not exceed 1/8inch (3mm). If this dimension exceeds 1/8inch (3mm), the blade is bent and must be replaced; refer to Removing the Blades and Sharpening the Blades.
Warning
A blade that is bent or damaged could break apart and could seriously injure or kill you or bystanders.
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Always replace bent or damaged blade with a new blade.
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Never file or create sharp notches in the edges or surfaces of blade.
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Removing the Blades
Blades must be replaced if a solid object is hit, if the blade is out of balance or is bent. To ensure optimum performance and continued safety conformance of the machine, use genuine Toro replacement blades. Replacement blades made by other manufacturers may result in non-conformance with safety standards.
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Hold the blade end using a rag or thickly-padded glove.
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Remove the blade bolt, curved washer, and blade from the spindle shaft (Figure 92).
Sharpening the Blades
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Use a file to sharpen the cutting edge at both ends of the blade (Figure 93).
Note: Maintain the original angle.
Note: The blade retains balance if the same amount of material is removed from both cutting edges.
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Check the balance of the blade by putting it on a blade balancer (Figure 94).
Note: If the blade stays in a horizontal position, the blade is balanced and can be used.
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If the blade is not balanced, file some metal off the end of the sail area only (Figure 94).
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Repeat this procedure until the blade is balanced.
Installing the Blades
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Install the blade onto the spindle shaft (Figure 95).
Important: The curved part of the blade must be pointing upward toward the inside of the mower to ensure proper cutting.
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Install the spring disk and blade bolt (Figure 95).
Note: The spring-disk cone must be installed toward the bolt head (Figure 95).
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Torque the blade bolt to 115 to 150N-m (85 to 110ft-lb).
Removing the Mower Deck
Lock out the spring loaded deck arms before servicing or removing the mower deck.
Warning
Deck-lift arm assemblies have stored energy. Removing the deck with out releasing the stored energy can cause serious injury or death.
Do not attempt to disassemble the deck from the front frame without locking out the stored energy.
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Stop the engine, wait for all of the moving parts to stop, remove the key, and engage parking brake.
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Remove the height adjustment pin and lower the deck to the ground.
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Place the height adjustment pin in the 7.6 cm (3 inch) cutting height location.
Note: This locks the deck-lift arms in the lowest position when the deck is removed and the stored energy in the deck spring is released.
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Remove the belt covers.
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Lift up the floor pan and insert a ratchet into the square hole in the deck idler (Figure 96).
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Rotate the deck idler clockwise and remove the mower belt (Figure 96).
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Remove and retain the hardware on both sides of the deck as shown in Figure 97.
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Raise the deck struts and secure them in the up position.
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Slide the deck out to the right side of the machine.
Replacing the Grass Deflector
Warning
An uncovered discharge opening could allow the lawn mower to throw objects in the operator's or bystander's direction and result in serious injury. Also, contact with the blade could occur.
Never operate the lawn mower unless you install a cover plate, a mulch plate, grass deflector, or bagger.
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Remove the locknut, bolt, spring, and spacer holding the deflector to the pivot brackets (Figure 98).
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Remove damaged or worn grass deflector.
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Place spacer and spring onto the grass deflector. Place one J-end of spring behind deck edge.
Note: Make sure that one J-end of spring is installed behind deck edge before installing the bolt as shown in Figure 98.
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Install the bolt and nut.
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Place one J-hook end of spring around grass deflector (Figure 98).
Important: The grass deflector must be able to rotate. Lift the deflector up to the full open position and ensure that it rotates into the full down position.
Cleaning
Cleaning Under the Mower
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Disengage the blade control switch (PTO), move the motion control levers to the neutral locked position, and set the parking brake.
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Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.
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Raise the mower to the transport position.
Disposing of Waste
Engine oil, batteries, hydraulic oil, and engine coolant are pollutants to the environment. Dispose of these according to your state and local regulations.