Z Master® Commercial 2000 Series Riding Mower

• Evaluate the terrain to determine what accessories and attachments are needed to properly and safely perform the job. Only use accessories and attachments approved by the manufacturer.

• Wear appropriate clothing including: a hard hat, safety glasses, and hearing protection. Long hair, loose clothing or jewelry may get tangled in moving parts.

• Inspect the area where the equipment is used, and remove all objects that can be thrown by the machine.

• Check that operator's presence controls, safety switches, and shields are attached and functioning properly. Do not operate unless they are functioning properly.

• Lightning can cause severe injury or death. If lightning is seen, or thunder is heard in the area, do not operate the machine; seek shelter.

• Do not run an engine in an enclosed area.

• Operate only in well-lit areas, keeping away from holes and hidden hazards.

• Ensure that all drives are in neutral and that the parking brake is engaged before starting engine. Start the engine only from the operator’s position.

• Make sure that you have good footing while using this machine, especially when backing up. Reduced footing could cause slipping.

• Slow down and use extra care on hillsides. Be sure to travel side to side on hillsides. Turf conditions can affect the stability of the machine. Use caution while operating near drop-offs.

• Slow down and use caution when making turns and when changing directions on slopes.

• Do not raise the mower deck with the blades running.

• Do not operate the machine without the PTO shield or other guards securely in place. Be sure that all interlocks are attached, adjusted properly, and functioning properly.

• Do not operate with the discharge deflector raised, removed or altered, unless you are using a grass catcher.

• Do not change the engine governor setting or overspeed the engine.

• Stop on level ground, disengage drives, engage the parking brake (if provided), shut off the engine before leaving the operator's position for any reason, including emptying the catchers or unclogging the chute.

• Stop equipment and inspect the blades after striking objects or if an abnormal vibration occurs. Make the necessary repairs before resuming operations.

• Keep your hands and feet away from the cutting unit.

• Look behind and down before backing up to ensure a clear path.

• Keep pets and bystanders away from an operating machine.

• Slow down and use caution when making turns and crossing roads and sidewalks. Stop the blades if you are not mowing.

• Be aware of the mower-discharge direction and do not point it at anyone.

• Do not operate the mower under the influence of alcohol or drugs.

• Use care when loading or unloading the machine into or from a trailer or truck.

• Use care when approaching blind corners, shrubs, trees, or other objects that may obscure vision.

• To avoid personal injury or property damage, use extreme care in handling gasoline. Gasoline is extremely flammable and the vapors are explosive.

• Extinguish all cigarettes, cigars, pipes, and other sources of ignition.

• Use only an approved fuel container.

• Do not remove the fuel cap or add fuel with the engine running.

• Allow the engine to cool before fueling.

• Do not fuel the machine indoors.

• Do not store the machine or fuel container where there is an open flame, spark, or pilot light, such as on a water heater or on other appliances.

• Do not fill containers inside a vehicle, on a truck, or on a trailer bed with a plastic liner. Always place containers on the ground away from your vehicle before filling.

• Remove equipment from the truck or trailer and fuel it on the ground. If this is not possible, then add fuel with such equipment as a portable container rather than from a fuel-dispenser nozzle.

• Keep the nozzle in contact with the rim of the fuel tank or container opening at all times until fueling is complete.

• Do not use a nozzle lock-open device.

• If you spill fuel on clothing, change your clothing immediately.

• Do not overfill the fuel tank. Replace the fuel cap and tighten securely.

• Disengage drives, set the parking brake, stop the engine, and remove the key or disconnect spark-plug wire. Wait for all movement to stop before adjusting, cleaning, or repairing.

• Park the machine on a level surface.

• Clean grass and debris from the cutting unit, drives, mufflers, and engine to help prevent fires.

• Clean up oil or fuel spills.

• Let the engine cool before storing the machine.

• Do not store fuel near flames or drain fuel indoors.

• Do not allow untrained personnel to service the machine.

• Use jack stands to support components when required.

• Carefully release pressure from components with stored energy.

• Disconnect the battery or remove the spark-plug wire before making any repairs. Disconnect the negative terminal first and the positive terminal last. Connect the positive terminal first and negative last.

• Use care when checking the blades. Wrap the blade(s) or wear thickly padded gloves, and use caution when servicing them. Only replace blades; do not straighten or weld them.

• Keep hands and feet away from moving parts. If possible, do not make adjustments with the engine running.

• Keep all parts in good working condition and all hardware tightened. Replace all worn or damaged decals.

• Use care when loading or unloading the machine into a trailer or a truck.

• Use full-width ramps for loading machine into a trailer or a truck.

• Tie the machine down securely using straps, chains, cable, or ropes. Both front and rear straps should be directed down and outward from the machine.

Use a fuel stabilizer/conditioner in the machine to provide the following benefits:

• Keeps gasoline fresh during storage of 90 days or less. For longer storage it is recommended that the fuel tank be drained.

• Cleans the engine while it runs

• Eliminates gum-like varnish buildup in the fuel system, which causes hard starting

  Important: Do not use fuel additives containing methanol or ethanol.

  Add the correct amount of gasoline stabilizer/conditioner to the gasoline.

  Note: A fuel stabilizer/conditioner is most effective when mixed with fresh gasoline. To minimize the chance of varnish deposits in the fuel system, use fuel stabilizer at all times.

Note: Do not fill the fuel tank completely full. Fill the fuel tank to the bottom of the filler neck. The empty space in the tank allows the gasoline to expand.

1. Park the machine on level ground.

2. Shut the engine off and set the parking brake.

3. Clean around the fuel-tank cap.

4. Fill the fuel tank to the bottom of the filler neck.

5. Ensure that there is empty space in the tank to allow the gasoline to expand (Figure 6).

   

   Figure 6

Note: Engaging the blade-control switch (PTO) with the throttle position at half or less causes excessive wear to the drive belts.

Figure 12

1. Raise the ROPS up, lock it into place, sit on the seat, and fasten the seat belt.

2. Move the motion controls to NEUTRAL-LOCK position.

3. Set the parking brake; refer to Setting the Parking Brake.

4. Move the blade-control switch (PTO) to the OFF position (Figure 13).

5. Move the throttle lever midway between the SLOW and FAST positions.

   

   Figure 18

6. Turn the ignition key to the START position (Figure 19).

   Note: When the engines starts, release the key.

   Important: Do not engage starter for more than 5 seconds at a time. If the engine fails to start allow a 15 second cool-down period between attempts. Failure to follow these instructions can burn out the starter motor.

   Note: You may need to attempt to start the engine multiple times when you start it for the first time after the fuel system has been without fuel completely.

   

   Figure 19

   1. Off
   2. Run
   3. Start

Let the engine idle at slow throttle (turtle) for 60 seconds before turning the ignition switch off.

Figure 20

Important: Make sure that the fuel-shutoff valve is closed before transporting or storing the machine, as fuel leakage may occur. Set the parking brake before transporting. Make sure to remove the key as the fuel pump may run and cause the battery to lose charge.

The safety-interlock system is designed to prevent the engine from starting unless:

• The parking brake is engaged.

• The blade-control switch (PTO) is disengaged.

• The motion-control levers are in the NEUTRAL-LOCK position.

The safety-interlock system also is designed to stop the engine when you move the traction controls from the locked position with the parking brake engaged or if you rise from the seat when the PTO is engaged.

Test the safety-interlock system before you use the machine each time. If the safety system does not operate as described below, have an Authorized Service Dealer repair the safety system immediately.

1. Sit on the seat, engage the parking brake and move the blade-control switch (PTO) to the ON position. Try starting the engine; the engine should not crank.

2. Sit on the seat, engage the parking brake and move the blade-control switch (PTO) to the OFF position. Move either motion-control lever (out of the NEUTRAL-LOCK position). Try starting the engine; the engine should not crank. Repeat for other control lever.

3. Sit on the seat, engage the parking brake, move the blade-control switch (PTO) to the OFF position, and move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position. Start the engine. While the engine is running, release the parking brake, engage the blade-control switch (PTO), and rise slightly from the seat; the engine should stop.

4. Sit on the seat, engage the parking brake, move the blade-control switch (PTO) to the OFF position, and move the motion-control levers to NEUTRAL-LOCK position. Start the engine. While the engine is running, center either motion-control lever and move it forward or reverse; the engine should stop. Repeat for other motion-control lever.

5. Sit on the seat, disengage the parking brake, move the blade-control switch (PTO) to the OFF position, and move the motion-control levers to NEUTRAL-LOCK position. Try starting the engine; the engine should not crank.

Note: The engine shuts off if you move the traction-control levers with the parking brake engaged.

To stop, pull the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL position.

1. Release the parking brake; refer to Releasing the Parking Brake.

2. Move the levers to the center, unlocked position.

3. To go forward, slowly push the motion-control levers forward (Figure 22).

   

   Figure 22

1. Move the levers to the center, unlocked position.

2. To go backward, slowly pull the motion-control levers rearward (Figure 23).

   

   Figure 23

The transport lock has 2 positions, and is used with the deck-lift pedal. There is a LOCK position and an UNLOCK position for the transport position of the mower deck (Figure 24).

Figure 24

Transport-Lock Positions

1. Transport lock
2. LOCK position—The mower deck locks into the transport position.
3. UNLOCK position—The mower deck does not lock into the transport position.

Adjust the height-of-cut from 25 to 140 mm (1 to 5-1/2 inches) in 6 mm (1/4 inch) increments by moving the clevis pin into different hole locations.

1. Move the transport lock to the LOCK position.

2. Push on the deck-lift pedal with your foot and raise the mower deck to the Transport position (also the 140 mm or 5-1/2 inch cutting-height position) as shown in Figure 25.

3. To adjust, rotate the pin 90 degrees and remove the pin from the height-of-cut bracket (Figure 25).

4. Select a hole in the height-of-cut bracket corresponding to the height-of-cut desired, and insert the pin (Figure 25).

5. Push on the deck lift, pull back on the transport lock, and slowly lower the mower deck.

   

   Figure 25

   1. Deck-lift pedal
   2. Height-of-cut pin
   3. Transport lock

For best mowing and maximum air circulation, operate the engine at the FAST throttle position. Air is required to thoroughly cut grass clippings, so do not set the height-of-cut so low as to totally surround the mower by uncut grass. Always try to have 1 side of the mower free from uncut grass, which allows air to be drawn into the mower.

Cut grass slightly longer than normal to ensure that the cutting height of the mower does not scalp any uneven ground. However, the cutting height you have used in the past is generally the best 1 to use. When cutting grass longer than 15.24 cm (6 inches) tall, you may want to cut the lawn twice to ensure an acceptable quality of cut.

It is best to cut only about 1/3 of the grass blade. Cutting more than that is not recommended unless grass is sparse, or it is late fall when grass grows more slowly.

Alternate the mowing direction to keep the grass standing straight. This also helps disperse clippings, which enhances decomposition and fertilization.

Normally, mow every 4 days. However, grass grows at different rates at different times. To maintain the same cutting height, which is a good practice, mow more often in early spring. As the grass growth rate slows in mid-summer, mow less frequently. If you cannot mow for an extended period, first mow at a high cutting height; then mow again 2 days later at a lower height setting.

To improve cut quality, use a slower ground speed in certain conditions.

If the cutting width of the mower is wider than the mower that you previously used, raise the cutting height to ensure that uneven turf is not cut too short.

If the grass is ever allowed to grow slightly longer than normal, or if it contains a high degree of moisture, raise the cutting height higher than usual and cut the grass at this setting. Then cut the grass again using the lower, normal setting.

If you must stop the forward motion of the machine while mowing, a clump of grass clippings may drop onto your lawn. To avoid this, move onto a previously cut area with the blades engaged.

Clean clippings and dirt from the underside of the mower after each use. If grass and dirt build up inside the mower, the cutting quality eventually becomes unsatisfactory.

Maintain a sharp blade throughout the cutting season, because a sharp blade cuts cleanly without tearing or shredding the grass blades. Tearing and shredding turns grass brown at the edges, which slows growth and increases the chance of disease. Check the cutter blades daily for sharpness and for any wear or damage. File down any nicks and sharpen the blades as necessary. If a blade is damaged or worn, replace it immediately with a genuine Toro replacement blade.

1. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position, and set the parking brake.

2. Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Grease the mower deck idler-pulley pivot until grease comes out of the bottom (Figure 34).

   

   Figure 34

4. Remove the dust cap and adjust the caster pivots.

   Note: Keep the dust cap off until greasing is done; refer to Adjusting the Caster-Pivot Bearing.

5. Remove the hex plug.

6. Thread a grease fitting into the hole.

7. Pump grease into the fitting until it oozes out around the top bearing.

8. Remove the grease fitting in the hole.

9. Install the hex plug and dust cap (Figure 35).

   

   Figure 35

1. Stop the engine, wait for all moving parts to stop, remove the key, and engage the parking brake.

   

   Figure 36

   1. Seal guard
   2. Spacer nut with wrench flats

2. Remove the caster wheel from the caster forks.

3. Remove the seal guards from the wheel hub.

4. Remove a spacer nut from the axle assembly in the caster wheel.

   Note: Thread-locking compound has been applied to lock the spacer nuts to the axle.

5. Remove the axle (with the other spacer nut still assembled to it) from the wheel assembly.

6. Pry out seals and inspect bearings for wear or damage and replace if necessary.

7. Pack the bearings with a general-purpose grease.

8. Insert 1 bearing and 1 new seal into the wheel.

   Note: Replace the seals.

9. If both spacer nuts have been removed (or broken loose) from the axle assembly, apply a thread-locking compound to 1 spacer nut and thread it onto the axle with the wrench flats facing outward.

   Note: Do not thread the spacer nut all of the way onto the end of the axle. Leave approximately 3 mm (1/8 inch) from the outer surface of the spacer nut to the end of the axle inside the nut.

10. Insert the assembled nut and axle into the wheel on the side with the new seal and bearing.

11. With the open end of the wheel facing up, fill the area inside the wheel around the axle full of general-purpose grease.

12. Insert the second bearing and new seal into the wheel.

13. Apply a thread-locking compound to the second spacer nut and thread it onto the axle with the wrench flats facing outward.

14. Torque the nut to 8 to 9 N∙m (75 to 80 in-lb), loosen the nut, then torque it to 2 to 3 N∙m (20 to 25 in-lb).

    Note: Make sure that the axle does not extend beyond either nut.

15. Install the seal guards over the wheel hub and insert wheel into the caster fork.

16. Install the caster bolt and tighten the nut fully.

Important: To prevent seal and bearing damage, check the bearing adjustment often. Spin the caster tire. The tire should not spin freely (more than 1 or 2 revolutions) or have any side play. If the wheel spins freely, adjust the torque on the spacer nut until there is a slight amount of drag. Apply another layer of thread-locking compound.

Note: Check the filters more frequently if the operating conditions are extremely dusty or sandy.

Oil Type: Detergent oil (API service SF, SG, SH, SJ, or SL)

Crankcase Capacity: with a filter change, 2.1 L (71 oz); without a filter change, 1.8 L (61 oz)

Viscosity: See the table below.

Figure 38

Note: Use of multi-grade oils (5W-20, 10W-30, or 10W-40) will increase oil consumption. Check the oil level more frequently when using them.

Make sure that the air gap between the center and side electrodes is correct before installing the spark plug. Use a spark plug wrench for removing and installing the spark plug(s) and a gapping tool/feeler gauge to check and adjust the air gap. Install a new spark plug(s) if necessary.

Type of Spark Plug: NGK^® BPR4ES or equivalent

Air Gap: 0.75 mm (0.03 inch)

Checking the Spark Plug

Important: Do not clean the spark plug(s). Always replace the spark plug(s) when it has: a black coating, worn electrodes, an oily film, or cracks.

If you see light brown or gray on the insulator, the engine is operating properly. A black coating on the insulator usually means the air cleaner is dirty.

Set the gap to 0.76 mm (0.03 inch).

Figure 44

Installing the Spark Plug

Tighten the spark plug(s) to 22 N∙m (16 ft-lb).

Figure 45

1. Stop engine, wait for all moving parts to stop, and remove key. Engage parking brake.

2. Wait for muffler to cool.

3. If there are any breaks in the screen or welds, replace the arrester.

4. If the screen is plugged, remove the arrester and shake the loose particles out of the arrester and clean the screen with a wire brush (soak it in solvent if necessary). Install the arrester on the exhaust outlet.

The fuel filter is located near the engine on the front or rear side of the engine.

1. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position, and set the parking brake.

2. Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Allow the machine to cool down.

4. Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

5. Close the fuel-shutoff valve under the seat (Figure 46).

   

   Figure 46

   1. Fuel filter
   2. Hose clamp
   3. Fuel-shutoff valve

6. Squeeze the ends of the hose clamps together and slide them away from the filter (Figure 46).

7. Remove the filter from the fuel lines.

8. Install a new filter and move the hose clamps close to the filter (Figure 46).

9. Open the fuel-shutoff valve.

Important: Install the fuel line hoses and secure with plastic ties the same as they were originally installed at the factory to keep the fuel line away from components that can cause fuel line damage.

Do not attempt to drain the fuel tank. Ensure that an Authorized Service Dealer drains the fuel tank and services any components of the fuel system.

The electrical system is protected by fuses. It requires no maintenance, however, if a fuse blows check the component and circuit for a malfunction or short.

The fuses are located on the right console next to the seat (Figure 49).

1. To replace the fuses, pull out the fuse to remove it.

2. Install a new fuse (Figure 49).

   

   Figure 49

   1. Optional accesory—15 A
   2. Charge—25 A
   3. PTO—10 A
   4. Main—25 A
   5. Console

Inspect the seat belt for wear, cuts, and proper operation of the retractor and buckle. Replace the seat belt if it is damaged.

Check that both the mounting hardware and the knobs are in good working condition. Make sure that the knobs are fully engaged with the ROPS in the raised position. The upper hoop of the roll bar may need to be pushed forward or pulled rearward to fully engage both knobs (Figure 50).

Figure 50

1. ROPS knob (locked position)
2. Pull the ROPS knob out, and rotate it 90 degrees to change the roll bar position.
3. Roll bar in the upright position
4. Roll bar in the folded position

1. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO).

2. Drive to an open, flat area and move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position.

3. Move the throttle midway between the FAST and SLOW positions.

4. Move both motion-control levers forward until they both hit the stops in the T-slot.

5. Check which way the machine tracks.

6. If the machine tracks to the right, loosen the bolts and adjust the left stop plate rearward on the left T-slot until the machine tracks straight (Figure 51).

7. If the machine tracks to the left, loosen the bolts and adjust the right stop plate rearward on the right T-slot until the machine tracks straight (Figure 51).

8. Tighten the stop plate (Figure 51).

   

   Figure 51

   Left control lever shown

   1. Control lever
   2. Bolt
   3. Stop plate

Maintain the air pressure in the front and rear tires at 90 kPa (13 psi). Uneven tire pressure can cause uneven cut. Check the tires when they are cold to get the most accurate pressure reading.

Figure 52

Check and torque the wheel lug nuts to 122 to 136 N∙m (90 to 100 ft-lb).

1. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position, and set the parking brake.

2. Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Remove the dust cap from caster and tighten the locknut (Figure 53).

4. Tighten the locknut until the spring washers are flat, and then back off a 1/4 turn to properly set the preload on the bearings (Figure 53).

   Important: Make sure that the spring washers are installed correctly as shown in Figure 53.

5. Install the dust cap (Figure 53).

   

   Figure 53

   1. Spring washers
   2. Locknut
   3. Dust cap

The clutch is adjustable to ensure proper engagement and proper braking.

1. Insert a 0.38 to 0.53 mm (0.015 to 0.02 inch) feeler gauge through an inspection slot in the side of the assembly.

   Note: Make sure that it is between the armature and the rotor-friction surfaces.

   Note: The gap needs to be at least 0.38 mm (0.015 inch), and not more than 0.53 mm (0.02 inch).

2. If adjustment is needed, then set at 0.38 mm (0.015 inch) for each of the 3 adjustment slot positions.

3. Tighten the locknuts until there is a slight binding on the feeler gauge, but it can be moved easily within the air gap (Figure 54).

4. Repeat this for the remaining slots.

5. Check each slot again and make slight adjustments until the feeler gauge between the rotor and armature with very slight contact between them.

   

   Figure 54

   1. Adjusting nut
   2. Slot
   3. Feeler gauge

Before each use remove any buildup of grass, dirt, or other debris from the engine screen. This helps ensure adequate cooling and correct engine speed and reduces the possibility of overheating and mechanical damage to the engine (Figure 55).

1. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO) and set the parking brake.

2. Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Remove the air intake screen, recoil starter and fan housing (Figure 55).

4. Clean the debris and grass from the engine parts.

5. Install the air-intake screen, recoil starter, and fan housing (Figure 55).

   

   Figure 55

   1. Engine guard
   2. Engine air-intake screen
   3. Bolt
   4. Fan housing
   5. Screw

Replace the belt if it is worn. The signs of a worn belt include squealing while the belt is rotating; the blades slipping while cutting grass; and frayed edges, burn marks, and cracks on the belt.

1. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position, and set the parking brake.

2. Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Lower the mower to the 76 mm (3 inch) height-of-cut.

4. Remove the belt covers (Figure 56).

   

   Figure 56

5. Use a ratchet in the square hole in the idler arm to remove tension on the idler spring (Figure 57).

6. Remove the belt from the mower-deck pulleys.

7. Remove the belt guide on the spring-loaded idler arm (Figure 57).

8. Remove the existing belt.

9. Install the new belt around the mower pulleys and the clutch pulley under the engine (Figure 57).

   

   Figure 57

   1. Clutch pulley
   2. Mower belt
   3. Spring-loaded idler pulley
   4. Ratchet
   5. Square hole in the idler arm for the ratchet
   6. Idler-grease fitting
   7. Belt guide

10. Install the belt guide on the idler arm (Figure 57).

11. Using the ratchet in the square hole, install the idler spring (Figure 57).

    Note: Make sure to seat the spring ends in the anchor grooves.

12. Install the belt covers (Figure 58).

    

    Figure 58

1. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO) and set the parking brake.

2. Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Remove the mower belt; refer to Replacing the Mower Belt.

4. Raise the machine and support it with jack stands (Figure 60).

5. Remove the clutch stop (Figure 59).

   

   Figure 59

   1. Clutch stop

6. Remove the idler spring from the post (Figure 60).

7. Remove the existing belt from the hydraulic-unit-drive pulleys and the engine pulley.

8. Install the new belt around the engine pulley and the 2 drive pulleys.

   

   Figure 60

   1. Idler pulley
   2. Idler-spring post
   3. Engine pulley
   4. Pump-drive belt
   5. Right hydraulic-pump pulley
   6. Left hydraulic-pump pulley

9. Install the clutch stop (Figure 59).

10. Install the mower belt; refer to Replacing the Mower Belt.

There are 2 height positions for the control levers—high and low. Remove the bolts to adjust the height.

1. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position, and set the parking brake.

2. Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Loosen the bolts and flange nuts installed in the levers (Figure 61).

4. Align the levers in the front-to-rear position by bringing the levers together to the NEUTRAL position, slide them until they are aligned, and tighten the bolts (Figure 61).

   

   Figure 61

   1. Bolt
   2. Handle
   3. Control lever
   4. Nut
   

   Figure 62

5. If the ends of the levers hit against each other, refer to Adjusting the Motion-Control Neutral-Lock Pivot.

Located on either side of the fuel tank, below the seat are the pump-control linkages. Rotating the pump linkage with a 1/2 inch wrench allows fine-tuning adjustments, so that the machine does not move in neutral. Any adjustments should be made for neutral positioning only.

1. Prior to starting the engine, push the deck-lift pedal, remove the height-of-cut pin, and lower the deck to the ground.

2. Raise the rear of machine up and support with jack stands (or equivalent support) just high enough to allow the drive wheels to turn freely.

3. Move the seat to the furthest rear position to expose the front nuts.

4. Loosen the front nuts.

   Note: You do not need to remove the nuts.

5. Move the seat to the furthest forward position to expose the rear nuts.

6. Loosen the rear nuts.

   Note: The nuts do not need to be removed.

7. Slide the seat and seat plate forward to allow the front nuts to go through the key hole (Figure 63).

   

   Figure 63

   1. Seat
   2. Front nuts with key hole

8. Loosen the bolts holding the seat to the machine, and slide the seat forward in the slots to remove the seat.

9. Unplug the harness connector from the seat switch located under the seat (Figure 64).

   

   Figure 64

   1. Harness connector

10. Temporarily install a jumper wire across the terminals in the connector of the main wiring harness.

11. Start the engine, run the engine at full throttle, and release the brake.

    Important: Engage the parking brake and move the motion-control levers out before starting the engine. You do not need to be in the seat because of the jumper wire being used.

12. Run the machine at least 5 minutes with the drive levers at full forward speed to bring the hydraulic oil up to operating temperature.

    Note: The motion-control lever needs to be in neutral while making any necessary adjustments.

13. Bring the motion-control levers into the NEUTRAL position.

14. Adjust the pump-control rods by loosening the 2 jam nuts and rotating the adjustment nut in the appropriate direction until the wheels slightly creep in reverse (Figure 65).

15. Move the motion-control levers to the REVERSE position, and while applying slight pressure to the lever, allow the reverse-indicator springs to bring the levers back to neutral.

    Note: The wheels must stop turning or slightly creep in reverse.

16. Tighten the 2 jam nuts against the adjustment nut (Figure 65).

    

    Figure 65

    1. Jam nut
    2. Adjustment nut

17. Shut off the machine.

18. Remove the jumper wire from the wire harness, and plug the connector into the seat switch.

19. Install the seat.

20. Remove the jack stands.

21. Raise the deck and install the height-of-cut pin.

22. Ensure that the machine does not creep in neutral with the parking brakes disengaged.

You can adjust the top damper mounting bolt to obtain a more desired motion-control lever resistance. See Figure 66 for mounting options.

Figure 66

Right Motion Control Shown

1. Torque the locknut to 22.6 N∙M (200 in-lb). The bolt must protrude past end of locknut after torque.
2. Most resistance (firmest feel)
3. Damper
4. Medium resistance (medium feel)
5. Least resistance (softest feel)

You can adjust the flanged nut to obtain the desired motion-control lever resistance when you move them to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position. See Figure 67 for adjustment options.

1. Loosen the jam nut.

2. Tighten or loosen the flanged nut to the desired feel.

   Note: For more resistance, tighten the flanged nut.

   Note: For less resistance, loosen the flanged nut

3. Tighten the jam nut.

   

   Figure 67

   1. Flanged nut
   2. Jam nut

Hydraulic Oil Type: Toro^® HYPR-OIL^™ 500 hydraulic oil or 20W-50 engine oil.

Important: Use oil specified. Other fluids could cause system damage.

Hydraulic System Capacity (with filters removed): 4.45 L (150 oz)

Change the filter and oil at the same time. Do not use the oil again. Purge any air in the system after you install the new filter and add oil.

Repeat the bleeding process until the oil remains at the FULL COLD line in the reservoir after purging. Failure to properly perform this procedure can result in irreparable damage to the transaxle drive system.

Installing the Hydraulic-System Filters

Maintenance Service Interval	Maintenance Procedure
After the first 50 hours	Change the hydraulic-system filter and oil.
Every 400 hours	Change the hydraulic-system filter and oil.

1. Apply a thin coat of oil on the surface of the rubber seal of each filter.

2. Turn the filter clockwise until the rubber seal contacts the filter adapter, then tighten the filter an additional 3/4 to 1 full turn.

3. Repeat for the other filter.

4. Install the filter guards over each filter that you previously removed.

5. Use the 3 screws to secure the filter guards.

6. Verify that the vent plugs are removed before adding the oil.

7. Slowly pour the specified oil through the expansion reservoir until oil comes out of 1 of the vent-plug holes.

8. Stop and install that vent plug.

9. Torque the plug to 20 N∙m (15 ft-lb).

10. Continue to add oil through the expansion reservoir until oil comes out of the remaining vent-plug hole on the second transmission.

11. Stop and install that vent plug.

12. Torque the plug to 20 N∙m (15 ft-lb).

13. Continue to add oil through the expansion reservoir until it reaches the FULL COLD line on the expansion reservoir.

14. Proceed to Bleeding the Hydraulic System.

    Important: Failure to perform the Bleeding the Hydraulic System procedure after changing hydraulic filters and oil can result in irreparable damage to the transaxle drive system.

Figure 70

To ensure a superior quality of cut, keep the blades sharp. For convenient sharpening and replacement, keep extra blades on hand.

Before servicing or removing the mower deck, lock out the spring-loaded deck arms.

1. Stop the engine, wait for all moving parts to stop, and remove key. Engage the parking brake.

2. Remove the height adjustment pin and lower the deck to the ground.

3. Place the height-adjustment pin in the 7.6 cm (3 inch) cutting-height location.

4. Remove the belt covers.

5. Lift up the floor pan and insert a ratchet into the square hole in the deck idler (Figure 83).

6. Rotate the deck idler clockwise and remove the mower belt (Figure 83).

   

   Figure 83

   1. Clutch pulley
   2. Mower belt
   3. Spring-loaded idler pulley
   4. Ratchet
   5. Square hole in the idler arm for the ratchet
   6. Idler grease zerk
   7. Belt guide

7. Remove and retain the shoulder bolt and nut of the rear and front deck-lift attachments on both sides of the machine(Figure 84).

   

   Figure 84

   1. Remove the shoulder bolt and nut here.
   2. Remove the shoulder bolt and nut here.

8. Slide the deck out to the right side of the machine.

1. Remove the locknut, bolt, spring, and spacer holding the deflector to the pivot brackets (Figure 85).

2. Remove the damaged or worn grass deflector (Figure 85).

   

   Figure 85

   1. Bolt
   2. Spacer
   3. Locknut
   4. Spring
   5. Spring installed
   6. Grass deflector
   7. J-hook end of spring

3. Place the spacer and the spring onto grass deflector.

4. Place 1 J-hook end of the spring behind the deck edge.

   Note: Make sure that 1 J-hook end of the spring is installed behind the deck edge before installing the bolt as shown in Figure 85.

5. Install the bolt and the nut.

6. Place 1 J-hook end of the spring around the grass deflector (Figure 85).

   Important: The grass deflector must be able to rotate. Lift the deflector up to the full open position and ensure that it rotates into the full down position.

1. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position, and set the parking brake.

2. Stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Raise the mower to the TRANSPORT position.

Engine oil, batteries, hydraulic oil, and engine coolant are pollutants to the environment. Dispose of these according to your state and local regulations.