Z Master® Professional 7000 Series Riding Mower

The safety-interlock system is designed to prevent the engine from starting unless:

• The parking brake is engaged.

• The blade-control switch (PTO) is disengaged.

• The motion-control levers are in the NEUTRAL-LOCK position.

The safety-interlock system also is designed to shut off the engine when the traction controls are moved from the locked position with the parking brake engaged or if you rise from the seat when the PTO is engaged.

The hour meter has symbols to notify the user when the interlock component is in the correct position. When the component is in the correct position, a triangle lights up in the corresponding square.

Figure 13

1. Triangles light up when the interlock components are in the correct position

Test the safety-interlock system before you use the machine each time. If the safety system does not operate as described below, have an Authorized Service Dealer repair the safety system immediately.

1. Sitting on the seat, engage the parking brake and move the blade-control switch (PTO) to the ON position. Try starting the engine; the engine should not start.

2. Sitting on the seat, engage the parking brake and move the blade-control switch (PTO) to the OFF position. Move either motion-control lever (out of the NEUTRAL-LOCK position). Try starting the engine; the engine should not start. Repeat for the other control lever.

3. Sitting on the seat, engage the parking brake, move the blade-control switch (PTO) to the OFF position, and move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position. Now start the engine. While the engine is running, disengage the parking brake, engage the blade-control switch (PTO), and rise slightly from the seat; the engine should shut off.

4. Sitting on the seat, engage the parking brake, move the blade-control switch (PTO) to the OFF position, and move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position. Now start the engine. While the engine is running, center either motion control and move (forward or reverse); the engine should shut off. Repeat for other motion control.

5. Sitting on the seat, disengage the parking brake, move the blade-control switch (PTO) to the OFF position, and move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position. Try starting the engine; the engine should not start.

Note: Engaging the blade-control switch (PTO) with the throttle position at half or less causes excessive wear to the drive belts.

Figure 19

Important: Use starting cycles of no more than 30 seconds per minute to avoid overheating the starter motor.

Note: Additional starting cycles may be required when starting the engine for the first time after the fuel system has been completely without fuel.

Figure 23

Use the correct engine oil for the starting temperature; refer to Servicing the Engine Oil.

Important: Use starting cycles of no more than 30 seconds per minute to avoid overheating the starter motor.

Note: Do not use fuel left over from the summer. Use only fresh winter-grade diesel fuel.

Figure 24

Figure 25

Important: Make sure that you close the fuel-shutoff valve before transporting or storing the machine, as fuel leakage may occur. Engage the parking brake before transporting the machine. Make sure that you remove the key as the fuel pump may run and cause the battery to lose charge.

Note: The engine stops when you move the traction-control with the parking brake engaged.

To stop, pull the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL position.

1. Disengage the parking brake; refer to Disengaging the Parking Brake.

2. Move the levers to the center, unlocked position.

3. To go forward, slowly push the motion-control levers forward (Figure 27).

   

   Figure 27

1. Move the levers to the center, unlocked position.

2. To go backward, slowly pull the motion-control levers rearward (Figure 28).

   

   Figure 28

This is the full rear position. The suggested use for this position is as follows:

• Short, light grass mowing conditions

• Dry conditions

• Smaller grass clippings

• Propels grass clippings farther away from the mower

  

  Figure 35

Use this position when bagging. Always align it with the blower opening.

Figure 36

This is the full open position. The suggested use for this position is as follows:

• Tall, dense grass mowing conditions

• Wet conditions

• Lowers the engine-power consumption

• Allows increased ground speed in heavy conditions

  

  Figure 37

For best mowing and maximum air circulation, operate the engine at the FAST position. Air is required to thoroughly cut grass clippings, so do not set the height-of-cut so low as to totally surround the mower in uncut grass. Always try to have 1 side of the mower free from uncut grass, which allows air to be drawn into the mower.

Cut grass slightly longer than normal to ensure that the cutting height of the mower does not scalp any uneven ground. However, the cutting height used in the past is generally the best one to use. When cutting grass longer than 15 cm (6 inches) tall, you may want to cut the lawn twice to ensure an acceptable quality of cut.

It is best to cut only about a third of the grass blade. Cutting more than that is not recommended unless grass is sparse, or it is late fall when grass grows more slowly.

Alternate the mowing direction to keep the grass standing straight. This also helps disperse clippings which enhances decomposition and fertilization.

Grass grows at different rates at different times of the year. To maintain the same cutting height, mow more often in early spring. As the grass growth rate slows in mid summer, mow less frequently. If you cannot mow for an extended period, first mow at a high cutting height, then mow again 2 days later at a lower height setting.

To improve cut quality, use a slower ground speed in certain conditions.

When mowing uneven turf, raise the cutting height to avoid scalping the turf.

If you must stop the forward motion of the machine while mowing, a clump of grass clippings may drop onto your lawn. To avoid this, move onto a previously cut area with the blades engaged or you can disengage the mower deck while moving forward.

Clean clippings and dirt from the underside of the mower after each use. If grass and dirt build up inside the mower, cutting quality will eventually become unsatisfactory.

Maintain a sharp blade throughout the cutting season because a sharp blade cuts cleanly without tearing or shredding the grass blades. Tearing and shredding turns grass brown at the edges, which slows growth and increases the chance of disease. Check the mower blades after each use for sharpness, and for any wear or damage. File down any nicks and sharpen the blades as necessary. If a blade is damaged or worn, replace it immediately with a genuine Toro replacement blade.

1. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), turn the ignition key to the OFF position, move the levers to NEUTRAL-LOCK position, engage the parking brake, and remove the key.

2. Rotate the bypass valves counterclockwise 1 turn to push (Figure 39).

   Note: This allows hydraulic fluid to bypass the pump enabling the wheels to turn.

   Important: Do not rotate bypass valves more than 1 turn. This prevents valves from coming out of the body and causing fluid to run out.

3. Disengage the parking brake before pushing.

Rotate the bypass valves clockwise 1 turn to operate machine (Figure 39).

Note: Do not over-tighten the bypass valves.

Important: The machine does not drive unless bypass valves are turned in.

Figure 39

1. Side console controls
2. Bypass valve
3. Hydraulic pumps

Important: Use the Z Stand™ on a level surface.

1. Raise the mower to the TRANSPORT position.

2. Remove the bracket pin (Figure 42).

   

   Figure 42

   1. Z Stand™
   2. Latch
   3. Bracket
   4. Bracket pin
   5. Bottom of slot

3. Raise the latch. Swing the stand foot out front and slide stand toward machine, into the bottom of slot (Figure 42 and Figure 43).

4. Lengthen the Z Stand™ by removing the clevis pin and hairpin cotter from the outer tube and sliding the foot out.

5. Align the holes and install the clevis pin and hairpin cotter pin.

   

   Figure 43

   1. Z Stand™ (Positioned in slot)
   2. Crack in side walk or turf
   3. Latch resting on pivot tab

6. Set the foot of stand on the ground and rest the latch on the pivot tab (Figure 43).

7. Start the engine and put it at half throttle.

   Note: For best results, place the foot of stand into seams in sidewalks or into the turf (Figure 43).

8. Drive onto the stand. Stop when the latch drops over the tab into the LOCKED position (Figure 43). Once onto the stand, engage the parking brake and shut off the engine.

9. Chock or block the drive wheels.

   Warning

   The parking brake may not hold the machine that is parked on the Z Stand™ and could cause personal injury or property damage.

   Do not park on the Z Stand™ unless wheels are chocked or blocked.

10. Perform the maintenance on the machine.

1. Remove the chocks or blocks.

2. Raise the latch to the UNLOCKED position (Figure 44).

   

   Figure 44

   1. Z Stand™
   2. Latch
   3. LOCKED position
   4. UNLOCKED position

3. Start the engine and place it at half throttle. Disengage the parking brake.

4. Slowly drive backward off the stand.

5. Shorten the Z Stand™ by removing the clevis pin and hairpin cotter pin from the outer tube and sliding the foot in.

6. Align the holes and install the clevis pin and hairpin cotter pin.

7. Return the stand to its REST position (Figure 42).

1. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Release the latches on the air cleaner and pull the air-cleaner cover off the air-cleaner body (Figure 52).

4. Clean the inside of the air-cleaner cover with compressed air.

5. Gently slide the filter out of the air-cleaner body (Figure 52).

   Note: Avoid knocking the filter into the side of the body.

6. Inspect the filter for damage by looking into the filter while shining a bright light on the outside of the filter.

   Note: Holes in the filter appear as bright spots. If the filter is damaged, discard it.

   

   Figure 52

   1. Air-filter body
   2. Air filter
   3. Air-cleaner cover
   4. Latches

1. If installing a new filter, check the filter for shipping damage. Do not use a damaged filter.

2. Carefully slide the filter into the filter body (Figure 53).

   Note: Ensure that it is fully seated by pushing on the outer rim of the filter while installing it.

   Important: Do not press on the soft inside area of the filter.

3. Install the air-cleaner cover and secure the latches (Figure 53).

   

   Figure 53

   1. Air-filter body
   2. Air filter
   3. Air-cleaner cover
   4. Latches

Important: The fasteners for the front engine panel are designed to remain on the machine after cover removal. Loosen all of the fasteners a few turns so that the panel is loose but still attached, then go back and loosen them until the panel comes free. This prevents you from accidentally stripping the bolts free of the retainers.

Tilt the seat forward, loosen the bolts holding the front engine panel and remove it (Figure 55).

Figure 55

1. Bolt
2. Front engine panel

Note: After servicing the engine oil, install the engine panel and tilt the seat into its upright position.

Note: Check the oil when the engine is cold.

1. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Check the engine-oil level (Figure 56).

   

   Figure 56

4. Start the engine, run it at idle for 5 minutes, shut off the engine, wait for 3 minutes, and then check the engine-oil level. If needed, add oil up to the FULL mark on the dipstick.

   Important: Be sure to keep the engine-oil level between the upper and lower limits on the oil gauge. Engine failure may occur as a result.

   Important: Add the oil very slowly and do not block the opening of the filler hole (Figure 40). If you add oil too fast or block the hole, the oil could back up and foul the air intakes, causing engine damage.

   

   Figure 57

   1. Note the clearance left in the filler opening.

1. Start the engine and let it run for 5 minutes.

   Note: This warms the oil so it drains better.

2. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position, and engage the parking brake.

3. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

   

   Figure 58

   Note: Dispose of the used oil at a recycling center.

1. Drain the oil from the engine; refer to Draining the Engine Oil.

2. Change the engine-oil filter (Figure 59).

   

   Figure 59

3. Add oil; refer to Checking the Engine-Oil Level.

1. Start the engine and let it run for 5 minutes.

   Note: This warms the oil so it drains better.

2. Park the machine on a level surface.

3. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position, and engage the parking brake.

4. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

5. Place a pan below the oil drain. Remove the drain plug and let the oil drain completely (Figure 60).

6. Remove the oil filler cap from the top of the engine (Figure 62).

   Note: This helps the oil to drain.

7. Install the drain plug and tighten it to 35 N∙m (25-1/2 ft-lb).

   Note: Dispose of the used oil at a recycling center.

   

   Figure 60

   1. Back of the machine
   2. Drain plug

1. Tilt the seat forward and remove the front engine panel (Figure 61).

   

   Figure 61

   1. Knob
   2. Front engine panel

2. Remove the oil-fill cap and dipstick (Figure 62).

   

   Figure 62

   1. Engine
   2. Oil-fill cap

3. Use a hose and funnel to add oil to the engine (Figure 63).

4. Add oil slowly, checking the level frequently with the dipstick until the level reaches the upper hole on the dipstick. For the correct oil type and viscosity to use in different temperature conditions, refer to Servicing the Engine Oil.

   

   Figure 63

   1. Engine oil
   2. Funnel and hose

   Important: Add the oil very slowly and do not block the opening of the filler hole (Figure 64). If you add oil too fast or block the hole, the oil could back up and foul the air intakes, causing engine damage.

   

   Figure 64

   1. Note the clearance left in the filler opening.

5. Replace the dipstick and install the front engine panel.

6. Start the engine and run it at idle for 5 minutes.

7. Shut off the engine.

8. Wait 3 minutes and check the oil level.

9. Add oil, if required, to bring the level to the upper hole on the dipstick.

10. Replace the dipstick, filler cap, and the front engine panel.

11. Check for leaks.

    Important: Do not overfill the crankcase with oil because this may cause engine damage.

1. Position the machine on a level surface.

2. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position, and engage the parking brake.

3. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

4. Locate the water separator at the back left of the machine.

5. Place a drain pan below the water separator.

6. Open the drain valve on the water separator approximately 1 turn to allow water and other contaminates to drain (Figure 65).

7. Close the drain valve when only diesel fuel comes out (Figure 65).

   

   Figure 65

   1. Drain valve
   2. Water separator
   3. Back of machine

Never install a dirty fuel filter if it is removed from the fuel line.

1. Allow the machine to cool down.

2. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position, and engage the parking brake.

3. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

4. Close the fuel shut-off valve (Figure 66).

5. Loosen the 2 hose clamps and disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel filter (Figure 66).

6. Install a new filter. Connect the fuel lines to the fuel filter and install the 2 hose clamps (Figure 66).

7. Open the fuel shut-off valve.

8. Start the engine and check for leaks.

   

   Figure 66

   1. Fuel filter
   2. Hose clamp
   3. Fuel pump
   4. Left side of machine
   5. Fuel-shutoff valve

1. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Unlatch the seat and tilt the seat up.

4. Remove the battery as shown in Figure 67.

   

   Figure 67

Note: Position the battery in the tray with the terminal posts opposite from the hydraulic tank.

Figure 68

Important: Always keep the battery fully charged (1.265 specific gravity). This is especially important to prevent battery damage when the temperature is below 0°C (32°F).

1. Make sure that the filler caps are installed in battery. Charge battery for 10 to 15 minutes at 25 to 30 A or 30 minutes at 10 A.

2. When the battery is fully charged, unplug the charger from the electrical outlet, then disconnect the charger leads from the battery posts (Figure 69).

3. Install the battery in the machine and connect the battery cables, refer to Installing the Battery.

   Note: Do not run the machine with the battery disconnected, electrical damage may occur.

   

   Figure 69

   1. Positive battery post
   2. Negative battery post
   3. Red (+) charger lead
   4. Black (-) charger lead

Use SAE 75W-90 synthetic gear lube.

1. Park the machine on a level surface.

2. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position, and engage the parking brake.

3. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

4. Remove the side or rear plug on the gearbox (Figure 74).

5. The oil should be up to the opening of the gearbox.

6. Add oil if needed to bring it to the correct level.

   

   Figure 74

   1. Gearbox
   2. Side plug
   3. Pulley
   4. Rear plug

Contact an Authorized Service Dealer to change the gearbox oil.

Fluid Type: 50/50 mix of extended life antifreeze/Dex-Cool® and water

Cooling System Capacity: 4.6 L (156 fl oz)

Note: Do not open the radiator cap. Doing this may induce air into the cooling system.

1. Position the machine on a level surface, shut off the engine, and engage the parking brake.

2. Unlatch the seat and tilt the seat up.

3. With the engine cool, check the overflow bottle level. The fluid needs to be up to the bump on the outside of the overflow bottle (Figure 78).

4. If the coolant level is low, add a 50/50 mix of extended life antifreeze/Dex-Cool® and water to the overflow bottle (Figure 78).

5. Add the 50/50 coolant mix to the overflow bottle and fill it to the indicator line on the bottle (Figure 78).

   

   Figure 78

   1. Antifreeze overflow bottle
   2. Indicator line on side of overflow bottle

Before each use, check and clean the radiator screen and oil cooler. Remove any buildup of grass, dirt or other debris from the oil cooler and radiator screen with compressed air (Figure 79).

Figure 79

1. Hydraulic-fluid cooler
2. Left rear tire
3. Radiator screen

Contact an Authorized Service Dealer for changing the coolant.

If the alternator belt needs to be replace, take your machine to an Authorized Service Dealer.

1. Place a handle between the alternator and cylinder block.

2. Adjust the alternator to the outside until there is 7 to 9 mm (1/4 to 11/32 inch) deflection in the belt between the engine and the alternator pulleys with 10 kgf (22.1 lb of force) (Figure 88).

3. Tighten the alternator bolts.

4. Check the deflection in the belt again and adjust the belt if needed.

5. If the deflection is correct, tighten the bottom and upper bolt (Figure 88).

   

   Figure 88

   1. Alternator
   2. Alternator belt
   3. Deflection, 7 to 9 mm (1/4 to 11/32 inch) with 10 kgf (22.1 lb of force)
   4. Top bolt
   5. Bottom bolt

Note: There are 2 ways of checking the hydraulic fluid. One is when the fluid is warm and one is when the fluid is cold. The baffle inside the tank has 2 levels depending if the fluid is warm or cold.

1. Position the machine on a level surface and engage the parking brake.

2. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position, and engage the parking brake.

3. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

4. Clean the area around the filler neck of the hydraulic tank (Figure 91).

5. Remove the cap from the filler neck and look inside to check if there is fluid in the reservoir (Figure 91).

6. If there is no fluid, add fluid to the reservoir until it reaches the cold level of the baffle.

7. Run the machine at low idle for 15 minutes to allow any air to purge out of the system and warm the fluid; refer to Starting and Shutting Off the Engine.

   Note: Check the fluid level while the fluid is warm. The fluid should be between cold and hot.

8. If required, add fluid to the hydraulic tank.

   Note: The fluid level should be to the top of the hot level of the baffle, when the fluid is hot (Figure 91).

9. Install cap on filler neck.

   

   Figure 91

   1. Hot fluid level-full
   2. Cold fluid level-full

   Warning

   Hydraulic fluid escaping under pressure can penetrate skin and cause injury.

   • If hydraulic fluid is injected into the skin it must be surgically removed within a few hours by a doctor familiar with this type of injury. Gangrene may result if this is not done.

   • Keep body and hands away from pin hole leaks or nozzles that eject high-pressure hydraulic fluid.

   • Use cardboard or paper to find hydraulic leaks.

   • Safely relieve all pressure in the hydraulic system before performing any work on the hydraulic system.

   • Make sure that all hydraulic-fluid hoses and lines are in good condition and all hydraulic connections and fittings are tight before applying pressure to hydraulic system.

Use summer filter above 0°C (32°F)

Use winter filter below 0°C (32°F)

1. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

   Important: Do not substitute automotive oil filter or severe hydraulic system damage may result.

3. Place drain pan under filter, remove the old filter and wipe the filter adapter gasket surface clean (Figure 92).

   

   Figure 92

   1. Hydraulic filter

4. Remove the right hydraulic line that comes into the adapter (Figure 93).

5. Allow the fluid to drain out of the system into the drain pan.

6. Install the right hydraulic line to the adapter (Figure 93).

   

   Figure 93

   1. Right hydraulic line
   2. Hydraulic filter
   3. Hydraulic tank

7. Apply a thin coat to the rubber gasket on the replacement filter (Figure 94).

8. Install the replacement hydraulic filter onto the filter adapter.

   Note: Do not tighten.

9. Fill the hydraulic tank with hydraulic fluid until the fluid overflows the filter and then turn the fluid filter clockwise until the rubber gasket contacts the filter adapter, then tighten the filter an additional 1/2 turn (Figure 94).

10. Clean up any spilled fluid.

11. Add fluid to the cold level of the baffle in the hydraulic tank.

12. Start the engine and let it run for about 2 minutes to purge air from the system.

13. Shut off the engine and check for leaks.

    Note: If 1 or both wheels do not drive, refer to Bleeding the Hydraulic System.

14. Check the fluid level while the fluid is warm.

    Note: The fluid should be between cold and hot.

15. If required, add fluid to the hydraulic tank.

    Note: Do not overfill.

    

    Figure 94

    1. Hydraulic filter
    2. Gasket
    3. Adapter

The traction system is self bleeding, however, it may be necessary to bleed the system if fluid is changed or after work is performed on the system.

1. Raise the rear of the machine so that the wheels are off the ground and support with jack stands.

2. Start the engine and run at low idle speed and engage the lever and traction on 1 side and spin the wheel by hand.

3. When the wheel begins to spin on its own, keep it engaged until the wheel drives smoothly (minimum 2 minutes).

4. Check the hydraulic-fluid level and add as required to maintain proper level.

5. Repeat this procedure on the opposite wheel.

Check the hydraulic hoses for leaks, loose fittings, kinked lines, loose mounting supports, wear, weather and chemical deterioration. Make necessary repairs before operating the machine.

Note: Keep areas around the hydraulic system clean from grass and debris buildup.

1. Start the engine, open the throttle 1/2 way and disengage parking brake; refer to Starting and Shutting Off the Engine.

   Note: The motion-control lever must be in neutral while making any adjustments.

2. Adjust the pump rod length by rotating the knob, in the appropriate direction, until the wheel is still or slightly creeping in reverse (Figure 95).

3. Move the motion-control lever forward and reverse, then back to neutral.

   Note: The wheel must stop turning or slightly creep in reverse.

4. Open the throttle to FAST.

   Note: Make sure that the wheel remains stopped or slightly creeps in reverse; adjust if necessary.

   

   Figure 95

   1. Tracking knob
   2. Hydraulic tank
   3. Hydraulic pumps
   4. Turn this way to track right
   5. Turn this way to track left

1. Loosen the locknuts at the ball joints on the pump control rod (Figure 96).

2. Start the engine, open the throttle 1/2 way and disengage parking brake; refer to Starting and Shutting Off the Engine.

   Note: The motion-control lever must be in neutral while making any adjustments.

   Note: The front nut on the pump rod has left-hand threads.

3. Adjust the pump rod length by rotating double nuts on rod, in the appropriate direction, until wheel is still or slightly creeps in reverse (Figure 96).

4. Move the motion-control lever forward and reverse, then back to neutral. The wheel must stop turning or slightly creep in reverse.

5. Open the throttle to fast. Make sure that the wheel remains stopped or slightly creeps in reverse, adjust if necessary.

6. Tighten the locknuts at the ball joints (Figure 96).

   

   Figure 96

   1. Double nuts
   2. Pump rod
   3. Adjustment bolt
   4. Locknut
   5. Ball joint
   6. Pumps

   Warning

   The electrical system does not perform proper safety shut off with the jumper wire installed.

   • Remove the jumper wire from the wire harness connector and plug the connector into the seat switch when you complete the adjustment.

   • Never operate the machine with the jumper installed and the seat switch bypassed.

7. After both pump neutrals are set, shut off the machine.

8. Remove the jumper wire from the wire harness connector and plug the connector into the seat switch.

9. Install the seat rod and lower the seat into position.

10. Remove the jack stands.

1. Position mower on a flat surface.

2. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position, and engage the parking brake.

3. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

4. Check tire pressure of the tires; if needed, adjust to 90 kPa (13 psi).

5. Lower the mower to the 76 mm (3 inches) height-of-cut position.

6. Inspect the 4 chains.

   Note: The chains need to have tension.

   Note: Adjust the rear chains to the top of the slot, where they are attached to the mower.

   • If a rear chain is loose, lower (loosen) the front-support arm on the same side; refer to Adjusting the Front-to-Rear Mower Pitch.

   • If a front chain is loose, raise (tighten) the front-support arm for that chain; refer to Adjusting the Front-to-Rear Mower Pitch.

1. Position the right blade side-to-side (Figure 97).

   

   Figure 97

   1. Measure here from blade to hard surface
   2. Measure at B and C

2. Measure the right blade at the B location, from a level surface to the cutting edge of the blade tip (Figure 97).

3. Record this measurement. This measurement needs to be 80 to 83 mm (3-1/8 to 3-1/4 inches).

4. Position the left blade side-to-side (Figure 97).

5. Measure the left blade at the C location (Figure 97), from a level surface to the cutting edge of the blade tip.

6. Record this measurement. This measurement needs to be 80 to 83 mm (3-1/8 to 3-1/4 inches).

7. If the measurements at positions B or C are not correct, loosen the bolt attaching the rear chain to the rear-support arm (Figure 98).

   

   Figure 98

   1. Rear chain
   2. Rear-support arm
   3. Bolt
   4. Jam nut
   5. Adjustment bolt
   6. Front swivel
   7. Front-support arm

8. Loosen the jam nut under the rear-support arm and adjust the adjustment bolt to get a measurement of 80 to 83 mm (3-1/8 to 3-1/4 inches); refer to Figure 98.

   Note: It is recommended that both sides of the mower are adjusted the same distance.

9. Tighten the jam nut under the rear-support arm and tighten the bolt securing the chain to the rear-support arm.

10. Adjust the opposite side if needed.

1. Position the right blade front-to-rear (Figure 99).

   

   Figure 99

   1. Measure here from blade to hard surface
   2. Measure at A and B

2. Measure the right blade at the A location, from a level surface to the cutting edge of the blade tip (Figure 99).

3. Record this measurement.

4. Measure the right blade at the B location, from a level surface to the cutting edge of the blade tip (Figure 99).

5. Record this measurement.

6. The mower blade should be 6 to 10 mm (1/4 to 3/8 inch) lower at position A than at position B (Figure 99). If it is not correct, proceed to the following steps.

   Note: Both of the front swivels need to be adjusted the same amount to maintain equal chain tension.

7. Loosen the front swivel jam nuts, at the front of the right and left swivels, approximately 13 mm (1/2 inch) (Figure 98).

8. Adjust the lift nuts on both the left and the right side of the machine to achieve 6 to 10 mm (1/4 to 3/8 inch) lower in front at A than in the rear at B (Figure 98).

9. Tighten both swivel jam nuts against the front swivel to lock the height.

10. Check to make sure that there is equal tension on the chains and adjust again if needed.

1. Raise the mower lift lever to the transport position.

2. Check the distance between the 2 large washers, it needs to be 28.2 cm (11-1/8 inches) for 52 inch mower decks, 26.7 cm (10-1/2 inches) for 60 inch mower decks, or 29.2 cm (11-1/2 inches) for 72 inch mower decks (Figure 100).

   

   Figure 100

   1. 28.2 cm (11-1/8 inches) between the large washers for 52 inch mower decks
   2. Front nut
   3. Spring-jam nut
   4. Front swivel
   5. Swivel jam nut
   6. Lift nut
   7. Front-support arm
   8. Large washer
   9. 26.7 cm (10-1/2 inches) between the large washers for 60 inch mower decks
   10. 29.2 cm (11-1/2 inches) between the large washers for 72 inch mower decks

3. Adjust this distance, by loosening the spring-jam nut and turning the nut in front of each spring (Figure 100).

   Note: Turning the nut clockwise shortens the spring; counter-clockwise lengthens the spring.

4. Lock the nut into position by tightening the spring-jam nut (Figure 100).

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and disconnect the spark-plug wires from the spark plugs.

1. Inspect the cutting edges (Figure 101).

2. If the edges are not sharp or have nicks, remove and sharpen the blade; refer to Sharpening the Blades.

3. Inspect the blades, especially in the curved area.

4. If you notice any cracks, wear, or a slot forming in this area, immediately install a new blade (Figure 101).

   

   Figure 101

   1. Cutting edge
   2. Curved area
   3. Wear/slot forming
   4. Crack

1. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Rotate the blades until the ends face forward and backward.

4. Measure from a level surface to the cutting edge, position A, of the blades (Figure 102).

   

   Figure 102

   1. Measure here from blade to hard surface
   2. Position A

5. Rotate the opposite ends of the blades forward.

6. Measure from a level surface to the cutting edge of the blades at the same position as in step 4 above.

   Note: The difference between the dimensions obtained in steps 4 and 6 must not exceed 3 mm (1/8 inch).

   Note: If this dimension exceeds 3 mm (1/8 inch), the blade is bent and must be replaced.

   Warning

   A blade that is bent or damaged could break apart and could seriously injure or kill you or bystanders.

   • Always replace a bent or damaged blade with a new blade.

   • Do not file or create sharp notches in the edges or surfaces of the blade.

Blades must be replaced if a solid object is hit, if the blade is out of balance, or if the blade is bent. To ensure optimum performance and continued safety conformance of the machine, use genuine Toro replacement blades. Replacement blades made by other manufacturers may result in nonconformance with safety standards.

1. Hold the blade end using a rag or a thickly-padded glove.

2. Remove the blade bolt, the curved washer, and the blade from the spindle shaft (Figure 103).

   

   Figure 103

   1. Sail area of the blade
   2. Blade
   3. Curved washer
   4. Blade bolt

1. Use a file to sharpen the cutting edge at both ends of the blade (Figure 104).

   Note: Maintain the original angle.

   Note: The blade retains its balance if the same amount of material is removed from both cutting edges.

   

   Figure 104

   1. Sharpen at original angle.

2. Check the balance of the blade by putting it on a blade balancer (Figure 105).

   Note: If the blade stays in a horizontal position, the blade is balanced and can be used.

   Note: If the blade is not balanced, file some metal off the end of the sail area only (Figure 104).

   

   Figure 105

   1. Blade
   2. Balancer

3. Repeat this procedure until the blade is balanced.

1. Install the blade onto the spindle shaft (Figure 106).

   Important: The curved part of the blade must be pointing upward toward the inside of the mower to ensure proper cutting.

2. Install the spring disk and blade bolt (Figure 106).

   Note: The spring-disk cone must be installed toward the bolt head (Figure 106).

3. Torque the blade bolt to 115 to 150 N∙m (85 to 110 ft-lb).

   

   Figure 106

   1. Sail area of the blade
   2. Blade
   3. Spring disk
   4. Blade bolt