Sand Pro® 2040Z Traction Unit

New engines take time to develop full power. Drive systems have more friction when they are new, placing additional load on the engine.

Allow the first 8 hours of operating time for the break-in period.

Since the first hours of operation are critical to future dependability of the machine, monitor the functions and performance closely so that you can notice and correct minor difficulties, which could lead to major problems. Inspect the machine frequently during the break-in period, for signs of oil leakage, loose fasteners, or any other malfunction.

The machine complies with the ANSI B71.4-2012 standards at the time of production. However, when the following attachments are installed on the machine, additional weight is required to comply to the standards. Use the chart below to determine the additional weight required. The machine comes with 4 weights. Each attachment comes with the necessary additional weights, if required.

1. Remove the 2 bolts and 2 nuts securing the existing weights on the front of the machine (Figure 12).

   Note: If the machine is equipped with the light kit, remove the nut and the bolt securing the front light to the machine. Retain all of the parts; refer to the Light Kit Installation Instructions.

   

   Figure 12

2. Add or remove weights as necessary.

3. Secure the weights with the 2 bolts and the 2 nuts.

   • For most of the attachments, use the existing bolts.

   • The finish drag mat includes 2 longer bolts to accommodate the additional weights that it requires.

   Note: If the machine is equipped with the light kit, install the front light by inserting the bolt through the weights and securing it with the nut; refer to the Light Kit Installation Instructions.

Toro Premium Engine Oil is available from your Authorized Toro Distributor.

Crankcase Capacity: 1.8 L (1.7 US qt) with filter change

Use 4-cycle engine oil that meets or exceeds the following requirements:

• API service category: SJ, SL, SM, or higher

• Viscosity: SAE 30; refer to the following chart for other viscosities (Figure 13):

  Important: Using multi-viscosity oils, such as 10W-30, increases oil consumption. Check the oil level more frequently when using them.

  

  Figure 13

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the attachment, move the control handles to the neutral-locked position, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. Remove the dipstick (Figure 14) and wipe it with a clean cloth (Figure 15).

   

   Figure 14

   1. Dipstick
   

   Figure 15

3. Insert the dipstick into the fill tube without threading it into the port.

4. Remove the dipstick from the tube and check the oil level. If the oil level is low, slowly pour only enough oil into the fill tube to raise the oil level to the upper-limit mark on the dipstick

   Important: Keep the engine oil level between the upper and lower limits on the dipstick. Engine failure may occur as a result of running the engine with too much or too little engine oil.

5. Install the dipstick firmly in place.

   Important: The dipstick must be fully seated in the tube to provide proper sealing of the engine crankcase. Failure to seal the crankcase may result in engine damage.

Fuel tank capacity: 17 L (4.5 US gallons)

Recommended Fuel:

• For best results, use only clean, fresh (less than 30 days old), unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 87 or higher ((R+M)/2 rating method).

• Ethanol: Gasoline with up to 10% ethanol (gasohol) or 15% MTBE (methyl tertiary butyl ether) by volume is acceptable. Ethanol and MTBE are not the same. Gasoline with 15% ethanol (E15) by volume is not approved for use. Never use gasoline that contains more than 10% ethanol by volume, such as E15 (contains 15% ethanol), E20 (contains 20% ethanol), or E85 (contains 85% ethanol). Using unapproved gasoline may cause performance problems and/or engine damage which may not be covered under warranty.

• Do not use gasoline containing methanol.

• Do not store fuel either in the fuel tank or fuel containers over the winter unless a fuel stabilizer is used.

• Do not add oil to gasoline.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the attachment, move the control handles to the neutral-locked position, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. Clean the area around the fuel-tank cap (Figure 16).

   

   Figure 16

   1. Fuel-tank cap

3. Remove the fuel-tank cap.

4. Fill the tank to about 25 mm (1 inch) below the top of the tank (bottom of the filler neck). Do not overfill.

5. Install the cap.

6. Wipe up any fuel that may have spilled, to prevent a fire hazard.

Important: For accuracy, check the level of the hydraulic fluid only when the engine and the hydraulic system are cold.

The reservoirs of the machine are filled at the factory with high-quality hydraulic fluid. The best time to check the hydraulic fluid is when the fluid is cold. The machine should be in the transport configuration. If the fluid level is below the top of the horizontal part of the cut-out sight window on the rear of the hydraulic reservoirs (Figure 17), add fluid to bring the fluid to the acceptable level. Do not overfill the reservoirs. If the fluid level is at the top of the horizontal part of the sight window, no fluid addition is required. The recommended replacement fluid is:

Fluid Type: Toro Premium Transmission/Hydraulic Tractor Fluid or Mobilfluid® 424

Capacity:

• Left side—1.9 L (2.0 US qt)

• Right side—2.0 L (2.1 US qt)

Alternative fluids: If the specified fluid is not available, other universal tractor hydraulic fluids (UTHF) may be used, but they must be only conventional, petroleum-based products, not synthetics or biodegradable fluids. The specifications must fall within the listed range for all of the following material properties and the fluid should meet listed industry standards. Check with your fluid supplier to see if the fluid meets these specifications.

Note: Toro will not assume responsibility for damage caused by improper substitutions, so use only products from reputable manufacturers who will stand behind their recommendation.

Note: Many hydraulic fluids are almost colorless, making it difficult to spot leaks. A red dye additive for the hydraulic fluid is available in 20 ml (2/3 fl oz) bottles. One bottle is sufficient for 15 to 22 L (4 to 6 US gallons) of hydraulic fluid. Order part number 44-2500 from your Authorized Toro Distributor.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the attachment, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. Look at the opening in each of the fluid-reservoir brackets, and check the level of the hydraulic fluid.

   Note: The fluid level should be at the bottom of each of the openings, as shown in Figure 17.

   

   Figure 17

   1. Hydraulic-fluid reservoirs
   2. Fluid-reservoir cap
   3. Bracket
   4. Fluid level

3. If the fluid level is low in either of the reservoirs, add fluid as follows:

   1. Clean the area around the fluid-reservoir caps to prevent debris from entering the system (Figure 17).

   2. Remove the caps from the reservoirs.

   3. Slowly fill the reservoir with the appropriate hydraulic fluid until the level reaches the bottom of the openings in the brackets.

      Important: To prevent system contamination, clean the top of the fluid container before opening it. Ensure that the pour spout and the funnel are clean.

      Important: Do not overfill the reservoirs.

   4. Install the reservoir caps.

Park the machine on a level surface, lower the attachment, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

Check the tire pressure before operating the machine (Figure 18).

Pressure: 48 kPa (7 psi)

Figure 18

1. Valve stem
2. Lug nut

Park the machine on a level surface, lower the attachment, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

Torque the lugs nuts (Figure 18) to 61 to 75 N∙m (45 to 55 ft-lb).

1. Move the control handles to the neutral-locked position (Figure 19).

   

   Figure 19

   1. Control handle (neutral-locked position)
   2. Center, unlocked position
   3. Forward
   4. Backward
   5. Front of the machine

2. Engage the parking brake; refer to Engaging the Parking Brake.

3. Pull the choke control upward to the ON position (when starting a cold engine), and move the throttle lever to the SLOW position.

   Important: When operating the machine in temperatures less than 0°C (32°F) allow the machine time to warm up before using it. This prevents damage to the hydraulic system.

4. Insert the key into the ignition switch and rotate it clockwise to start the engine. Release the key when the engine starts. Regulate the choke to keep the engine running smoothly.

   Important: To prevent overheating of the starter motor, do not keep the ignition key in the START position for longer than 10 seconds. After 10 seconds of continuous cranking, wait 60 seconds before using the starter motor again.

5. To shut off the engine, move the throttle control to the SLOW position, and turn the key to the OFF position. Remove the key from the switch to prevent accidental starting.

   Note: In an emergency, simply turn the key to the OFF position.

Always engage the parking brake when you stop the machine or leave it unattended.

Engaging the Parking Brake

Warning

The parking brake may not hold the machine parked on a slope and could cause personal injury or property damage.

Do not park on slopes unless the wheels are chocked or blocked.

To engage the parking brake, pull upward on the handle (Figure 20).

Figure 20

Disengaging the Parking Brake

To disengage the parking brake, push downward on the handle (Figure 21).

Figure 21

The safety interlock system is designed to prevent the engine from starting unless:

• The parking brake is engaged.

• The control handles are in the neutral-locked position

The safety interlock system also stops the engine when you move the control handles out of the neutral-locked position while you are out of the seat or while the parking brake is set.

The hour meter has symbols to notify you when the interlock component is in the correct position. When the component is in the correct position, a triangle appears in the corresponding location (Figure 22).

Figure 22

1. Triangles appear when the interlock components are in the correct position.

Note: The PTO (power take-off) interlock is not used on this machine.

Read this entire section on raking before raking a sand trap. There are many conditions that determine the adjustments necessary. The texture and depth of the sand, moisture content, weeds, and the amount of compaction are all factors that can vary from course to course, or even from trap to trap on the same course. Make the adjustments on the rake for optimum results in your particular area.

Learning How to Rake

Practice raking in a large and level trap on the course. Practice starting and stopping, turning, raising and lowering the rake, entering and leaving the trap, etc. Practice at a moderate engine speed and a slow ground speed. This training helps the operator to gain confidence in the performance of the machine.

The recommended pattern for raking a trap is shown in Figure 26. This pattern avoids unnecessary overlap, keeps compaction to a minimum, and leaves a neat, attractive pattern on the sand. This is the most efficient raking method, however, it is important to vary the raking pattern regularly to reduce the chance of creating a washboard effect.

Figure 26

1. Enter a trap straight into the long dimension in a level area.
2. Exit a trap at a right angle in a level area.

Enter the trap straight into the long dimension, where the bank is the least steep. Drive through the center of the trap almost to the end, turn to either direction as sharp as you can, and come back right next to the first pass. Spiral outward as shown in Figure 26, and leave the trap at a right angle in a level area.

Leave steep, short banks and small pockets for touch-up with a hand rake.

Raking Tips

• If the sand is deep enough, you can rake right up to the edge of the trap in level areas.

• If the sand feathers out to the turf, stay far enough away from the edge to avoid disturbing the underlying soil.

• Do not rake too close to a short, steep bank. The sand will merely flow down into the bottom of the trap.

• Some touch-up with a hand rake may be necessary on steep banks, small pockets, etc.

Important: Do not tow the machine for long distances or at high speeds. Doing so could damage the machine. You can tow the machine slowly from the grooming surface to the on-site trailer.

The bypass-valve levers are located on the top of each hydrostatic transmission.

Important: Ensure that the bypass-valve levers are in the fully forward position when operating the machine, or severe damage to the hydraulic system can occur.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the attachment, move the control handles to the neutral-locked position, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. From underneath the machine, rotate the bypass-valve levers (Figure 27 and Figure 28) so that they point inward, toward the center of the machine (Figure 29), and disengage the parking brake; refer to Using the Parking Brake.

   Note: This allows the hydraulic fluid to bypass the pumps, enabling the wheels to turn freely.

   

   Figure 27

   Left bypass-valve lever

   

   Figure 28

   Right bypass-valve lever

   

   Figure 29

   1. Inward to push or tow the machine
   2. Forward to drive the machine

3. When you are finished pushing or towing the machine, rotate the bypass-valve levers so that they point toward the front of the machine, to allow the machine to drive (Figure 29).

1. If you are using a trailer, connect it to the towing vehicle and connect the safety chains.

2. If applicable, connect the trailer brakes.

3. Load the machine onto the trailer or truck.

4. Move the control handles to the neutral-locked position, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

5. Use the tie-down points on the machine (Figure 30) to securely fasten the machine to the transport vehicle with straps, chains, cable, or ropes.

   

   Figure 30

   1. Tie-down points

Use extreme caution when loading or unloading the machine onto a trailer or a truck. Use a full-width ramp that is wider than the machine for this procedure.

Important: Do not use narrow individual ramps for each side of the machine.

The trailer or truck and ramp should be as level as possible when loading the machine to avoid getting the attachment caught as the machine moves from the ground to the ramp.

If you are loading the machine on or near a slope, position the trailer or truck so that it is on the down side of the slope and the ramp extends up the slope; this minimizes the ramp angle.

Figure 31

1. Trailer
2. Full-width ramp
3. Full-width ramp—side view

An optional wireless hour meter is available through your Authorized Toro Distributor.

Refer to the Wireless Hourmeter System guide.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the attachment, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. Remove the control panel (Figure 32).

   

   Figure 32

   1. Control panel
   2. Screw (4)

3. Locate the wireless hour-meter jumper.

   Note: The jumper is labeled.

4. Attach the wireless hour meter.

5. Tie the wireless hour meter to the existing harness to prevent excessive motion in the console.

6. Install the control panel.

Refer to Figure 33 for the support points.

Figure 33

1. Support points (rear)
2. Support points (front)

Grease Type: No. 2 lithium grease

Grease each grease fitting located on the front wheel hub, the belt tensioner, and the attachment lift as follows:

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the attachment, move the control handles to the neutral-locked position, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. Wipe the grease fitting clean so that foreign matter cannot be forced into the bearing or bushing.

3. Attach a grease gun to the fitting, and pump grease into the fitting.

4. Wipe up any excess grease.

• Front wheel bearing (1)—Figure 34

  

  Figure 34

• Belt tensioner (1)—Figure 35

  

  Figure 35

• Attachment lift (4)—Figure 36

  

  Figure 36

Type: NGK BPR4ES (or equivalent)

Gap: 0.76 mm (0.030 inch)

Note: The spark plugs usually last a long time; however, you should check them whenever the engine malfunctions.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the attachment, move the control handles to the neutral-locked position, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. Clean the area around each of the spark plugs so that foreign matter cannot fall into the cylinders when you remove the spark plugs.

   

   Figure 43

   1. Spark-plug wires

3. Disconnect the spark-plug wires from the spark plugs, and remove the plugs from the cylinder heads.

4. Check the condition of the side electrode, the center electrode, and the insulator to ensure that there is no damage.

   Important: Replace the spark plugs if they are cracked, fouled, dirty, or otherwise malfunctioning. Do not clean the electrodes, because grit entering the cylinder may damage the engine.

5. For each spark plug, set the gap between the center electrode and the side electrode to 0.76 mm (0.030 inch); refer to Figure 44. Install each of the correctly gapped spark plugs with a gasket seal, and tighten the plugs to 22 N∙m (16 ft-lb).

   

   Figure 44

   1. Side electrode
   2. Center electrode
   3. Insulator
   4. 0.76 mm (0.030 inch) gap

This procedure must be performed with the proper tools. See your authorized Kawasaki engine dealer for service, unless you have the proper equipment and adequate mechanical proficiency.

This procedure must be performed with the proper tools. See your authorized Kawasaki engine dealer for service, unless you have the proper equipment and adequate mechanical proficiency.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the attachment, move the control handles to the neutral-locked position, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. Remove the fasteners securing the seat assembly to the machine.

   

   Figure 45

   1. Seat assembly
   2. Bolt (4)
   3. Washer (4)

3. Disconnect the filter from the carbon canister (Figure 46).

   

   Figure 46

   1. Carbon-canister filter

4. Connect the new filter to the carbon canister.

5. Install the seat support plate and the seat.

The fuel line has an in-line filter. Replace it as follows:

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the attachment, move the control handles to the neutral-locked position, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. Loosen the hose clamp on the carburetor side of the filter, and remove the fuel line from the filter (Figure 47 and Figure 48).

   

   Figure 47

   1. Fuel filter
   

   Figure 48

   1. Fuel filter
   2. Hose clamp (2)
   3. Fuel line

3. Place a drain pan under the filter, loosen the remaining hose clamp, and remove the filter.

4. Slide the hose clamps onto the ends of the fuel lines.

5. Push the fuel lines onto the new fuel filter, and secure them with the hose clamps.

   Note: Install the new filter with the arrow on the filter body pointing away from the fuel tank (toward the carburetor).

1. Remove any corrosion from the battery terminals, and ensure that the connections are tight before jump-starting the machine.

   Important: Corrosion or loose connections can cause unwanted electrical voltage spikes at any time during the jump-starting procedure, which could damage the engine.Do not attempt to jump-start the machine if the battery terminals are loose or corroded.

   Danger

   Jump-starting a weak battery that is cracked or frozen, or has a low electrolyte level or an open/shorted battery cell, can cause an explosion resulting in serious personal injury.

   Do not jump-start a weak battery if these conditions exist.

2. Ensure that the booster battery is a good, fully charged lead-acid battery with at least 12.6 V. Use properly sized jumper cables with short lengths to reduce the voltage drop between the systems. Make sure that the cables are color coded or labeled for the correct polarity.

   Note: Be sure that the vent caps are tight and level. Place a damp cloth, if available, over the vent caps on each battery. Be sure that the machines do not touch and that both electrical systems are turned off and have the same rated system voltage. These instructions are for negative-ground systems only.

3. Connect the positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the discharged battery that is wired to the starter or solenoid as shown in Figure 49.

   

   Figure 49

   1. Positive (+) cable on discharged battery
   2. Positive (+) cable on booster battery
   3. Negative (–) cable on the booster battery
   4. Negative (–) cable on the engine block
   5. Booster battery
   6. Discharged battery
   7. Engine block

4. Connect the other end of the positive cable to the positive terminal of the booster battery.

5. Connect the black negative (–) cable to the other terminal (negative) of the booster battery.

6. Make the final connection on the engine block (not on the negative battery post) of the machine with the discharged battery, away from the battery, and stand back (Figure 50).

   

   Figure 50

   1. Engine block
   2. Negative (–) cable

7. Start the engine, and remove the cables in the reverse order of connection.

   Note: Disconnect the cable connected to the engine block (black cable) first.

Park the machine on a level surface, lower the attachment, move the control handles to the neutral-locked position, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

The fuse block (Figure 51) is located near the control panel.

Figure 51

1. Lights (sold separately)
2. Attachment—10A
3. Engine start—25A
4. Battery—20A

To replace a fuse, remove it by simply pulling it out from the fuse block, and install a new fuse

Important: Always use a fuse of the same type and amperage as the one you are replacing; otherwise, you could damage the electrical system. Refer to the decal on the back of the seat for the function and amperage of each fuse.

1. Drive to a flat, open area, and move the control handles to the neutral-locked position.

2. Move the throttle midway between the FAST and SLOW positions.

3. Move both control handles all the way forward until they both hit the stops in the T-slot.

4. Check which way the machine tracks.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the attachment, move the control handles to the neutral-locked position, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. Depending on which way the machine tracks, do the following:

   • If it tracks to the right, loosen the bolts and adjust the left stop plate rearward until the machine tracks straight (Figure 55).

   • If it tracks to the left, loosen the bolts and adjust the right stop plate rearward until the machine tracks straight (Figure 55).

   

   Figure 55

   Left control handle shown

   1. Bolt (4)
   2. Stop plate

3. Tighten the bolts to secure the stop plate (Figure 55).

Important: Ensure that each control handle stops against the stop plate and not against the transmission internal stop.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the attachment, move the control handles to the neutral-locked position, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. Raise the rear of the machine and support it with jack stands; refer to Lifting the Machine.

   Warning

   Mechanical or hydraulic jacks may fail to support the machine and cause serious injury.

   Use jack stands when supporting the machine.

3. Use a ratchet in the square hole in the tensioner arm to counteract against the tensioner spring (Figure 56), and remove the belt from the tensioner pulley.

   

   Figure 56

   1. Left transmission pulley
   2. Tensioner spring
   3. Tensioner arm
   4. Tensioner pulley
   5. Engine pulley
   6. Right transmission pulley

4. Unhook the tensioner spring from the tensioner arm and the frame (Figure 56).

5. Remove the nut that secures the tensioner assembly to the frame (Figure 57).

   

   Figure 57

   1. Tensioner assembly
   2. Nut

6. Remove the bolt securing the old tensioner pulley to the tensioner arm, and install a new pulley (Figure 58).

   

   Figure 58

   1. Bolt
   2. Spacer
   3. Seal
   4. Pulley
   5. Tensioner arm

7. Remove the belt from the transmission pulleys and the engine pulley.

8. Install the new belt around the engine pulley and the 2 transmission pulleys.

9. Install the spring on the tensioner arm and the frame (Figure 56).

10. Use a ratchet in the square hole in the tensioner arm to temporarily stretch the tensioner spring, and align the belt to the tensioner pulley.

There are 2 height positions for the control handles; high and low.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the attachment, move the control handles to the neutral-locked position, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. Loosen the bolts and flange nuts that attach the handles to the levers (Figure 59).

   

   Figure 59

   1. Bolt
   2. Control handle
   3. Lever
   4. Flange nut

3. Align the front-to-rear position of the handles by bringing them together to the neutral position, and sliding them until they are aligned (Figure 60).

   

   Figure 60

4. Tighten the bolts and flange nuts to secure the handles to the levers.

Turning the double nuts on the control-handle linkage allows you to fine-tune the adjustment so that the machine does not move in neutral. Make adjustments for neutral positioning only.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the attachment, move the control handles to the neutral-locked position, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. Raise all 3 wheels of the machine up off the floor, and support the machine with jack stands just high enough to allow the drive wheels to turn freely; refer to Lifting the Machine.

   Warning

   Mechanical or hydraulic jacks may fail to support the machine and cause serious injury.

   Use jack stands when supporting the machine.

3. Press down on the seat, or place a weight on the seat, to press the interlock switch down.

4. Start the engine and move the throttle lever to the Fast position.

5. Remove the pressure (or weight) from the seat.

6. Disengage the parking brake.

7. On 1 side of the machine, slowly turn the double nuts on the linkage (Figure 61) until the wheel on that side starts to rotate, then turn the double nuts in the opposite direction until the wheel rotates in the other direction.

   Note: The control handles need to be in the neutral position while making any necessary adjustments.

   

   Figure 61

   1. Double nuts

8. Turn the double nuts back the other way until they are at the midpoint between the 2 positions.

9. Repeat steps 7 and 8 for the other side.

10. Shut off the engine.

11. Remove the jack stands, and carefully lower the machine to the ground.

12. Start the engine again, and ensure that the machine does not creep in neutral with the parking brake disengaged.

You can adjust the top damper-mounting bolt to change the control-handle resistance.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the attachment, move the control handles to the neutral-locked position, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. To access the damper-mounting bolts, remove the bolts that secure the stop plates to the frame (Figure 62).

   

   Figure 62

   Left side shown

   1. Bolt (4)
   2. Stop plate

3. Remove the locknut, move the damper-mounting bolt to the desired position, and install the locknut. Refer to Figure 63 for the mounting options.

   Note: Torque the locknut to 22.6 N∙m (16.7 ft-lb). The bolt must protrude past the end of the locknut when it is tight.

   

   Figure 63

   Right side shown

   1. Locknut
   2. Most resistance (firmest feel)
   3. Damper
   4. Medium resistance (medium feel)
   5. Least resistance (softest feel)

4. Adjust the tracking; refer to Adjusting the Tracking.

If you prefer a different amount of side-to-side resistance in the control handles when you move them into and out of the neutral-locked position, you can adjust it as follows:

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the attachment, move the control handles to the neutral-locked position, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. Loosen the jam nut (Figure 64).

   

   Figure 64

   1. Flanged nut
   2. Jam nut

3. Tighten or loosen the flanged nut to the desired feel.

   • For more resistance, tighten the flanged nut.

   • For less resistance, loosen the flanged nut.

4. Tighten the jam nut.

5. Repeat this procedure for the other control handle.

Whenever you repair or replace a hydraulic component, you should replace the hydraulic-fluid filters and check the hydraulic system to ensure that it works properly.

Important: Make sure that the hydraulic reservoirs and the manifold filter are filled with fluid at all times when checking the hydraulic system.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the attachment, move the control handles to the neutral-locked position, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. Raise all 3 wheels of the machine up off the floor, and support the machine with jack stands just high enough to allow the drive wheels to turn freely; refer to Lifting the Machine.

   Warning

   Mechanical or hydraulic jacks may fail to support the machine and cause serious injury.

   Use jack stands when supporting the machine.

3. Start the engine and set the throttle to allow the engine to run at low idle.

4. Move the control handles to the full-forward position, and watch for the drive wheels to turn smoothly.

5. Move the control handles to the full-reverse position, and watch for the drive wheels to turn smoothly.

6. Press the attachment switch until the lift-cylinder rod moves in and out several times.

   If the cylinder rod does not move after 10 to 15 seconds, or if the pump makes abnormal sounds, shut off the engine immediately and determine the cause or problem.

   Inspect for the following conditions, and make the necessary repairs or see your authorized Toro distributor:

   • The belt is removed or severely worn.

   • The fluid level is inadequate.

   • A hydraulic filter is loose.

   • The charge pump is worn.

   • The charge relief filter is worn.

   • There is an issue with the switch or the wiring.

   • The solenoid valve is plugged.

Capacity:

• Left side—1.9 L (2.0 US qt)

• Right side—2.0 L (2.1 US qt)

Fluid Type: Toro Premium Transmission/Hydraulic Tractor Fluid or Mobilfluid® 424

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the attachment, move the control handles to the neutral-locked position, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. Place a drain pan under the left hydrostatic transmission.

3. Remove the drain plug on the pump side and the drain plug on the gear side (Figure 69), and allow the oil to drain completely.

   

   Figure 69

   1. Filter caps
   2. Drain plug—gear side
   3. Manifold filter
   4. Drain plug—pump side

4. Remove the filter cap, and pull the filter out of the transmission (Figure 70).

   

   Figure 70

   1. Cap
   2. Filter

5. Install a new filter, and install the filter cap.

6. Repeat steps 2 through 5 for the right hydrostatic transmission.

7. Clean the area around the manifold filter, which is located on the right side of the machine.

8. Place a drain pan under the manifold filter (Figure 71).

   

   Figure 71

9. Slowly loosen the manifold filter until fluid flows past the gasket and drips out.

10. Remove the filter when the fluid flow slows.

11. Lubricate the sealing gasket on the replacement filter with clean hydraulic fluid, and install it by hand until the gasket contacts the mounting surface.

12. Tighten the filter 3/4 turn further.

13. Fill each of the hydraulic reservoirs with fresh hydraulic fluid until the level is at the bottom of the sight windows in the reservoir brackets.

    Important: Do not overfill the hydraulic system. Refer to Checking the Level of the Hydraulic Fluid.

    Note: To allow the fluid to flow into the system more quickly, you can remove the plug (Figure 72) on top of each hydrostatic transmission. When fluid starts to come out of the hole, install the plug and continue filling the reservoir until the fluid is at the correct level.

    Important: Ensure that the plugs are in place and secure before starting the engine.

    

    Figure 72

    1. Top plugs

14. Start and run the engine. Operate the lift cylinder until it extends and retracts.

15. Check to ensure that the machine can drive forward and backward.

16. Shut off the engine and check the fluid level in reservoir, add fluid if necessary.

17. Check the connections for leaks, and ensure that the hydraulic system works properly; refer to Checking the Hydraulic System.

18. Dispose of the used fluid properly.

Check the hydraulic lines and hoses daily for leaks, kinked lines, loose mounting supports, wear, loose fittings, weather deterioration, and chemical deterioration. Make all necessary repairs before operating.

1. At the completion of operation, park the machine on a level surface, lower the attachment, move the control handles to the neutral-locked position, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. Thoroughly wash the machine with a garden hose—without a nozzle—so that excessive water pressure does not cause contamination and damage to the seals and bearings.

3. Make sure that the cooling fins and the area around the engine-cooling air intake are free of debris. After cleaning, inspect the machine for possible hydraulic-fluid leaks, damage, or wear to hydraulic and mechanical components.