4050 Directional Drill

Refer to the following table for the proper utility line and the corresponding utility line color (USA and Canada).

Before you can begin boring, you need to plan the route that you will bore and prepare as follows:

• Create a basic plan for the bore, mapping out the proposed route.

  • Note any obstacles which may affect the bore, such as large trees, bodies of water, buildings, etc.

  • Plan the route of the bore to avoid as many obstacles as possible.

  • Determine the depth of any bodies of water to be crossed to ensure that you can get deep enough under them.

• Determine the depth that you need to install the material at and the minimum bend radius both of the drill pipe and of the material being installed. This will seriously affect how long the bore needs to be and at what angle that you can begin and end; refer to Planning the Bore Path.

• Have the area of the bore marked for utility lines (in the US call 811). Ensure that all lines are marked on your blueprints/bore plan as well.

• Contact the local authorities to arrange for any permits and traffic control that you will need to conduct the job.

Physically inspect the site as follows:

• Note the terrain, slopes, valleys, hills, and any features not planned for previously.

  Determine the degree of slope at both the proposed entry point and exit point.

• Determine what the soil types are in the area and, if possible, at the depth that you will be boring. You may need to dig test holes at intervals along the bore path to fully determine this.

• Walk the area of the bore, looking for any possible unmarked obstructions. Look for manholes, pedestals, old foundations, etc.

• Identify all the hazards that you will pass within 3 m (10 ft).

  Danger

  Contacting underground hazards with the machine while drilling or reaming can cause explosion, electrocution, breathing problems, severe trauma, and death to you or bystanders.

  • Ensure that all personnel at the job site wear personal protective equipment including a hard hat, eye protection, electrically insulated safety boots and gloves, and hearing protection.

  • Keep bystanders and spectators away from the job site, including the complete bore path.

  • Locate and expose all electric and gas lines that you will be crossing by careful hand digging.

  • Ensure that you use the Zap-Alert system whenever you operate the machine.

  Common hazards include the following:

  • Gas lines

    Danger

    Drilling into a gas line can cause an explosion or fire, burning, injuring, or killing you or others in the vicinity of the break.

    • Do not smoke or have any source of flame near gas lines or at either end of a bore that will be crossing a gas line.

    • Keep bystanders and spectators away from the job site, including the complete bore path.

    • Locate and expose all gas lines that you will be crossing by careful hand digging.

    • Have the gas company turn off the gas to any lines you will be crossing before drilling.

    • Use the receiver to track the exact position of the drill head when approaching gas lines.

  • Electrical power lines

    Danger

    Drilling into an electric power line will cause the machine to become electrified and may electrocute you or any bystanders.

    • Keep bystanders and spectators away from the job site, including the complete bore path.

    • Locate and expose all electric lines that you will be crossing by careful hand digging.

    • Have the electric company turn off the power to any lines you will be crossing before drilling.

    • Use the receiver to track the exact position of the drill head when approaching electric lines.

    • Before drilling, setup and use the Zap-alert system which is designed to notify in the case of an electric strike and electrically isolate the machine operator from the machine. If the Zap-alert alarm triggers, stop what you are doing and do not leave the operator’s position. Refer to Deploying the Zap-Alert System for detailed instructions on using the Zap-alert system.

  • Crystalline silica and other dust

    If you will be drilling through or cutting concrete, sand, or other substances that create dusts or fumes, you need to ensure that you and all workers wear breathing protection to protect your lungs from the dust.

    Warning

    Machining or handling stone, masonry, concrete, metal, and other materials can generate dust, mists, and fumes containing chemicals, such as silica, known to cause serious or fatal injury or illness, such as respiratory disease, silicosis, cancer, birth defects, or other reproductive harm.

    • Control dust, mist, and fumes at the source where possible. Water should be used for dust suppression when feasible.

    • Use good work practices and follow the recommendations of the manufacturer or suppliers, OSHA, and other occupational and trade associations.

    • When the hazards from inhalation cannot be eliminated, the operator and any bystanders should wear a respirator approved by OSHA for the material being handled.

    Warning

    Silicosis Warning: Grinding, cutting, or drilling stone, masonry, concrete, metal, and other materials with silica in their composition may give off dust or mist containing crystalline silica. Silica is a basic component of sand, quartz, brick, clay, granite, and numerous other minerals and rocks. Repeated and/or substantial inhalation of airborne crystalline silica can cause fatal respiratory diseases, including silicosis. In addition, some other authorities have listed respirable crystalline silica as a substance known to cause cancer. When cutting such materials, follow respiratory precautions.

One of the more challenging aspects of planning the bore path is to determine the entry point of the bore. You need to take the following traits into account when determining the location of the entry point:

• Bore depth

  This is the depth at which you want to install the utility line or pipe. This machine is designed primarily for installations between 1 and 3 m (3.5 to 10 ft).

• Pipe and material flexibility

  The 3 m (10 ft) pipes used on this machine can flex to an 8% pitch over the length of the pipe; this equates to a bend of no more than 20 cm (8 inches) off a straight path (Figure 28).

  Important: If you steer the pipe to bend sharper than 20 cm (8 inches) per pipe, you may damage the pipes and their connections. You must also make steering changes gradually over the entire length of each pipe. If you steer the whole 20 cm (8 inches) in only 25 to 50 cm (1 to 2 ft) of travel, you will permanently damage the pipes.

  

  Figure 28

  1. 20 cm (8 inches)

  This flexibility is often rated in materials as a minimum bend radius, which is the radius of the circle formed if the material or pipes, connected together, were bent to form a giant circle. The minimum radius of a circle made with the pipe used with this machine is 33 m (108.2 ft).

• Entry pitch

  The entry pitch is the angle at which the machine enters the ground. With the tracks on level ground, the stabilizers down, and the stake-down plate on the ground, the drill frame angle is about 15 degrees or a 27% pitch. This pitch will change depending on the slope of the ground and other factors of the job site. You can also reduce this pitch a bit by building up the ground under the stake-down plate before positioning the machine. You can determine the actual pitch of the drill frame by placing the drill bit and sonde housing on the frame and then use the receiver to display the pitch.

  The steeper the entry pitch is, the deeper the bore will have to be due to the limitations of the pipe flexibility. Typically you need to insert the drill and at least 1/3 of a pipe into the ground before you can start steering toward the beginning of the bore point. Figure 29, Figure 30, and the following table illustrate the relationship between entry pitch and depth.

  

  Figure 29

  1. 26% pitch
  2. 3 m (10 ft)
  3. 76 cm (30 inches)
  

  Figure 30

  1. 18% pitch
  2. 3 m (10 ft)
  3. 53 cm (21 inches)

  Note: The depths given in the following table are for 3 m (10 ft) of combined drill head and pipe. As you steer up, the pitch of the steered section will change and can be monitored with the receiver. Use the following table to identify how many lengths of pipe will be necessary to insert and steer to the beginning point and help you choose an entry point.

  Pitch	Depth Change per 10 feet	Pitch	Depth Change per 10 feet
  1%	2 cm (1 inch)	26%	76 cm (30 inches)
  2%	5 cm (2 inches)	27%	79 cm (31 inches)
  3%	10 cm (4 inches)	28%	81 cm (32 inches)
  4%	13 cm (5 inches)	29%	84 cm (33 inches)
  5%	15 cm (6 inches)	30%	86 cm (34 inches)
  6%	18 cm (7 inches)	31%	91 cm (36 inches)
  7%	20 cm (8 inches)	32%	94 cm (37 inches)
  8%	25 cm (10 inches)	33%	97 cm (38 inches)
  9%	28 cm (11 inches)	34%	99 cm (39 inches)
  10%	30 cm (12 inches)	35%	102 cm (40 inches)
  11%	33 cm (13 inches)	36%	104 cm (41 inches)
  12%	36 cm (14 inches)	37%	107 cm (42 inches)
  13%	39 cm (15 inches)	38%	109 cm (43 inches)
  14%	43 cm (17 inches)	39%	112 cm (44 inches)
  15%	46 cm (18 inches)	40%	114 cm (45 inches)
  16%	48 cm (19 inches)	41%	117 cm (46 inches)
  17%	51 cm (20 inches)	42%	117 cm (46 inches)
  18%	53 cm (21 inches)	43%	119 cm (47 inches)
  19%	56 cm (22 inches)	44%	122 cm (48 inches)
  20%	61 cm (24 inches)	45%	124 cm (49 inches)
  21%	64 cm (25 inches)	46%	127 cm (50 inches)
  22%	66 cm (26 inches)	47%	130 cm (51 inches)
  23%	69 cm (27 inches)	48%	133 cm (52 inches)
  24%	71 cm (28 inches)	49%	135 cm (53 inches)
  25%	74 cm (29 inches)	50%	137 cm (54 inches)
  All measurements are approximate and will vary depending on soil conditions. Note: These values and more can be found in the Driller’s Handbook & Daily Log by Digital Control Incorporated.

Given the above information, you can calculate the number of rods required to reach your beginning point at the appropriate depth. Toro recommends that you start the entry point the same distance back from your beginning-at-depth point as the length of pipes you will need to reach that point. This will ensure that you have enough extra space so you will not need to over-steer and damage the pipes.

The following example illustrates the process given an installation using the maximum entry pitch of the machine (26%) on level ground:

• Insert the first 3 m (10 ft) of drill bit/pipe into the ground with no steering. The end of the drill bit will be 76 cm (30 inches) deep (Figure 28).

  

  Figure 31

  1. 26% pitch
  2. 76 cm (30 inches)
  3. 142 cm (56 inches)
  4. 185 cm (73 inches)
  5. 203 cm (80 inches)
  6. 208 cm (82 inches)
  7. 14.7 m (45 ft)

• Begin steering up for the next 3 m (10 ft), pushing the pipes in at the maximum pitch change of 8%. This results in a change of pitch from 26% at the beginning of the 3 m (10 ft) to 18% at the end of the 3 m (10 ft) for an average pitch of 22%. Given that, the drill head lowers another 66 cm (26 inches) and is now 142 cm (56 inches) deep.

• Continuing steering up for the next 3 m (10 ft) at an 8% pitch change, your pitch will change from 18% to 10% for an average pitch of 14%. Given that, the drill head lowers another 43 cm (17 inches) and is now 185 cm (73 inches) deep.

• Continuing steering up for the next 3 m (10 ft) at an 8% pitch change, your pitch will change from 10% to 2% for an average pitch of 6%. Given that, the drill head lowers another 18 cm (7 inches) and is now 203 cm (80 inches) deep.

• Leveling the drill head from 2% to 0% takes less than 1.5 m (5 ft) more for a final depth of 208 cm (82 inches). Reaching this final point took 4-1/2 pipes 3 m (10 ft) long. So for this example, your entry point should be 14.7 m (45 ft) back from the beginning-at-depth point of your installation.

The following example illustrates the process given an installation using the machine at an 18% pitch on level ground:

• Insert the first 3 m (10 ft) of drill bit/pipe into the ground with no steering. The end of the drill bit will be 53 cm (21 inches) deep (Figure 32).

  

  Figure 32

  1. 18% pitch
  2. 53 cm (21 inches)
  3. 96 cm (38 inches)
  4. 114 cm (45 inches)
  5. 119 cm (47 inches)
  6. 10.6 m (35 ft)

• Begin steering up for the next 3 m (10 ft), pushing the pipes in at the maximum pitch change of 8%. This results in a change of pitch from 18% at the beginning of the 3 m (10 ft) to 10% at the end of the 3 m (10 ft) for an average pitch of 14%. Given that, the drill head lowers another 43 cm (17 inches) and is now 96 cm (38 inches) deep.

• Continuing steering up for the next 3 m (10 ft) at an 8% pitch change, your pitch will change from 10% to 2% for an average pitch of 6%. Given that, the drill head lowers another 18 cm (7 inches) and is now 114 cm (45 inches) deep.

• Leveling the drill head from 2% to 0% takes less than 1.5 m (5 ft) more for a final depth of 119 cm (47 inches). Reaching this final point took 3-1/2 pipes 3 m (10 ft) long. So for this example your entry point should be 10.6 m (35 ft) back from the beginning-at-depth point of your installation.

Important: You can use the information contained in this section to determine both the space needed to steer up to the exit point if needed and also to steer around obstacles.

With the information you gathered previously, map out the route of the bore, identifying the following so that you can mark the site later:

• Entry point

• Location of the machine and supporting equipment

• Beginning of bore at depth

• Any obstacles that you need to steer around and the locations where you need to start steering to get around or under them

• Any utility lines that you will need to cross

• Slope and soil changes along the path that will affect the bore

• End of the bore at depth

• Exit location if different than the end of the bore

1. Start the engine.

2. With the engine running, rise from the seat and press a joystick function.

   Note: The drill functions should not engage. If they do engage, there is a malfunction in the interlock system that you should correct before resuming operation.

You will need 2 people for this procedure.

1. Start the engine.

2. With the engine running, have 1 person sit in the seat.

3. Using the travel pendant, press the controls to tram the machine.

   Note: The tramming functions should not engage. If they do engage, there is a malfunction in the interlock system that you should correct before resuming operation.

4. With the engine running, use the travel pendant and press the controls to lower the stabilizer feet while not holding the operator presence button.

   Note: The stabilizer feet functions should not engage. If they do engage, there is a malfunction in the interlock system that you should correct before resuming operation.

5. With the engine running, use the travel pendant and press the controls to tram the machine while not holding the operator presence button.

   Note: The tramming functions should not engage. If they do engage, there is a malfunction in the interlock system that you should correct before resuming operation.

208 L (55 U.S. gallons)

Use only clean, fresh diesel fuel or biodiesel fuels with ultra low (<15 ppm) sulfur content. The minimum cetane rating should be 40. Purchase fuel in quantities that can be used within 180 days to ensure fuel freshness.

Use summer grade diesel fuel (No. 2-D) at temperatures above -7° C (20° F) and winter grade (No. 1-D or No. 1-D/2-D blend) below that temperature. Using winter grade fuel at lower temperatures provides lower flash point and cold flow characteristics which will ease starting and reduce fuel filter plugging.

Using summer grade fuel above -7° C (20° F) will contribute toward longer fuel pump life and increased power compared to winter grade fuel.

Important: Do not use kerosene or gasoline instead of diesel fuel. Failure to observe this caution will damage the engine.

Using Biodiesel Fuel

This machine can also use a biodiesel blended fuel of up to B20 (20% biodiesel, 80% petrodiesel). The petrodiesel portion must be ultra low sulfur. Observe the following precautions:

• The biodiesel portion of the fuel must meet specification ASTM D6751 or EN14214.

• The blended fuel composition should meet ASTM D975 or EN590.

• Painted surfaces may be damaged by biodiesel blends.

• Use B5 (biodiesel content of 5%) or lesser blends in cold weather.

• Monitor seals, hoses, gaskets in contact with fuel as they may be degraded over time.

• Fuel filter plugging may be expected for a time after converting to biodiesel blended.

• Contact your dealer for more information about biodiesel.

In certain conditions during fueling, static electricity can be released, causing a spark which can ignite the fuel vapors. A fire or explosion from fuel can burn you and others and can damage property.

• Place fuel containers on the ground away from your vehicle before filling.

• Do not fill fuel containers inside a vehicle or on a truck or trailer bed because interior carpets or plastic truck bed liners may insulate the container and slow the loss of any static charge.

• When practical, remove equipment from the truck or trailer, and refuel the equipment with its tracks on the ground.

• If this is not possible, then refuel such equipment on a truck or trailer from a portable container rather than from a fuel dispenser nozzle.

• If you are using a fuel dispenser nozzle, keep the nozzle in contact with the rim of the fuel tank or container opening at all times until fueling is complete.

1. Park the machine on a level surface.

2. Using a clean rag, clean the area around fuel-tank cap.

3. Remove the cap from the fuel tank (Figure 37).

   

   Figure 37

   1. Fuel-tank cap

4. Fill the tank until the level is to the bottom of the filler neck with diesel fuel.

5. Install fuel tank cap tightly.

   Note: If possible, fill the fuel tank after each use. This will minimize possible buildup of condensation inside the fuel tank.

Set up your mixing system near the directional drill location, preferably downwind, so that fumes from the mixing system engine will not bother you while you are drilling. Follow the instructions provided in the mixing system Operator’s Manual for setting it up and using it.

Complete the steps following to connect the exit hose from the mixing system to the drilling-fluid pump on the machine:

1. Raise the cam-lock levers on the pump-inlet cap, and remove the cap (Figure 48).

   

   Figure 48

   1. Cam-lock levers
   2. Pump-inlet cap

2. Insert the hose from the mixing system over the pump inlet, and secure it with the cam-lock levers.

To set up a pump to use a natural water source, you must ensure that you use the Y-screen to filter all materials other than water.

1. Remove the pump-inlet cap (Figure 49).

   

   Figure 49

   1. Pump threads
   2. Pump-inlet cap
   3. Y-screen

2. Align the Y-screen with the threads on the pump (Figure 49).

3. Rotate and tighten the Y-screen onto the pump.

4. Attach the hose to the Y-screen, and begin pumping from the natural water source.

1. Push back on the SWING-ROCKER switch (until the cab stops) to swing the cab to the DRILL position (Figure 50).

   

   Figure 50

   1. Swing rocker switch
   2. Rotate rocker switch

   Important: Ensure that you swing the cab out completely before rotating, or you may contact the machine, causing damage to the cab.

2. Push back on the ROTATE-ROCKER switch to rotate the cab to the desired drill position (Figure 50).

1. Push forward on the ROTATE-ROCKER switch (until the cab stops) to rotate the cab to the TRANSPORT position (Figure 50).

   Important: Ensure that you completely rotate the cab to the TRANSPORT position (clockwise) before swinging, or you may contact the machine, causing damage to the cab.

2. Push forward on the SWING-ROCKER switch (until the cab stops) to swing the cab to the TRANSPORT position (Figure 50).

1. Push the AIR-CONDITIONING switch to the right to turn the air conditioning to the ON position (Figure 53).

   

   Figure 53

   1. Cool/Cold temperature
   2. Air-conditioning switch Off position
   3. Air-conditioning switch
   4. Air-condition switch On position
   5. Warm/Hot temperature
   6. Temperature knob
   7. Fan speed (low, medium, or high)
   8. Fan-speed knob
   9. Fan Off position

2. Open the vents to increase or decrease the air flow.

3. Turn the TEMPERATURE knob to the left until you reach the desired temperature (Figure 53).

4. Turn the FAN-SPEED knob to either low, medium, or high (Figure 53).

1. Push the AIR-CONDITIONING switch to the left to turn the air conditioning to the OFF position (Figure 53).

2. Open the vents to increase or decrease the air flow.

3. Turn the TEMPERATURE knob to the right until you reach the desired temperature (Figure 53).

4. Turn the FAN-SPEED knob to either low, medium, or high (Figure 53).

Turn the WINDSHIELD-WIPER knob (Figure 54) to the right increase the speed of the windshield wipers, or turn the knob to the left to decrease the speed.

Figure 54

1. Windshield-wiper knob

Push down on the WINDSHIELD-WIPER knob (Figure 54) to disperse the desired amount of windshield washer fluid.

• The owner/operator can prevent and is responsible for accidents that may cause personal injury or property damage.

• Wear appropriate clothing, including eye protection; long pants; substantial, slip-resistant footwear; hearing protection; and a hard hat. Tie back long hair and do not wear loose clothing or loose jewelry.

• Do not operate the machine while ill, tired, or under the influence of alcohol or drugs.

• Never carry passengers on the machine and keep bystanders and children out of the operating area.

• Operate the machine only in good visibility to avoid holes or hidden hazards.

• Keep your hands and feet away from moving parts.

• Look behind and down before backing up to be sure of a clear path.

• Use care when approaching blind corners, shrubs, trees, or other objects that may obscure your vision.

• Do not operate near drop-offs, ditches, or embankments.

• Stop the machine whenever you are not operating it.

• Stop the machine and inspect the after striking an object or if there is an abnormal vibration in the machine. Make all necessary repairs before resuming operation.

• Slow down and use caution when making turns and crossing roads and sidewalks with the machine. Always yield the right-of-way.

• Never run an engine in an area where exhaust gasses are enclosed.

• Never leave a running machine unattended.

• Before leaving the operating position, do the following:

  • Shut off the machine, remove the key, and turn the battery-disconnect switch to the off position.

  • Wait for all moving parts to stop.

• Do not operate the machine when there is the risk of lightning.

• Do not use the machine as a towing vehicle.

• Use accessories, attachments, and replacement parts approved by The Toro® Company only.

When operating the machine on a slope, the operator must account for many variables, such as the amount, distribution, and height of the load; the stability of the ground; uneven terrain and obstacles; and the condition of the brakes. These and other variables make it impractical to designate the maximum angle at which the operator can safely use the machine for all slopes and situations.

Slopes are a major factor related to loss of control and rollover accidents, which can result in severe injury or death. The operator is responsible for safe slope operation. Operating the machine on any slope requires extra caution. Before using the machine on a slope, the operator must do the following:

• Review and understand the slope instructions in the manual and on the machine.

• Evaluate the site conditions of the day to determine if the slope is safe for machine operation. Use common sense and good judgment when performing this evaluation. Changes in the terrain, such as moisture, can quickly affect the operation of the machine on a slope.

• Walk beside the machine when tramming up and down slopes.

• Identify hazards at the base of the slope. Do not operate the machine near drop offs, ditches, embankments, water or other hazards. The machine could suddenly roll over if a track goes over the edge or the edge collapses. Keep a safe distance (twice the width of the machine) between the machine and any hazard.

• Avoid starting, stopping or turning the machine on slopes. Avoid making sudden changes in speed or direction; turn slowly and gradually.

• Do not operate a machine under any conditions where traction, steering or stability is in question. Be aware that operating the machine on wet terrain, across slopes or downhill may cause the machine to slide even if the tracks are stopped.

• Remove or mark obstacles such as ditches, holes, ruts, bumps, rocks, or other hidden hazards. Uneven terrain could overturn the machine.

1. Ensure that all bystanders are away from the machine and that the exit-side lockout is ON.

2. Move the drive carriage fully down the drill frame and spray the spindle threads with thread joint compound, then return the drive carriage to the upper end of the frame (Figure 43).

   

   Figure 55

   1. Drill spindle
   2. TJC-applicator nozzle

3. Rotate the cam until the cam automatically stops at the first row of pipes in the pipe holder.

4. Lower the elevators to load a pipe into the cam.

5. Rotate the cam with the pipe facing toward the operator until the cam stops.

6. Rotate the pipe-gripper cam forward until the pipe is in the grippers.

7. Grip the pipe with the pipe grippers.

8. Continue to rotate the pipe-gripper cam toward the operator, until the pipe is aligned with the drill spindle.

9. Rotate the drill spindle clockwise, and move the carriage slowly forward to insert the spindle into the female end of the pipe (Figure 56).

   

   Figure 56

   1. Drill spindle
   2. Pipe

10. Move the drive carriage slowly down the frame until the male threads on the pipe are under the thread-joint-compound applicator, and apply thread-joint compound to the threads.

11. Continue to rotate the drill spindle clockwise, until the male pipe thread is fully seated into the sonde housing or lead bar.

12. Release and retract the pipe-gripper cam to the HOME position.

    Important: Ensure that you fully retract the pipe gripper and rotate it all the way out or the carriage may collide with the gripper, damaging the machine.

13. Raise the pipe elevator.

14. Retract the cam to the HOME position (past the fourth row of pipes).

The drill head consists of 2 parts, the drill bit and the sonde housing (Figure 57).

Figure 57

1. Sonde housing
2. Drill bit

Drill bits vary in size and type to meet the various soil conditions that you may need to drill through. Some of the possibilities are as follows:

• Straight blade—Used in a wide range of medium density soils.

• Bent blade—Used in medium to soft soils. This bit has an added 20 degree bend to increase steering performance in soft soils.

• Triangle point blade—Use in hard and rocky soils. This bit has carbide edges to reduce wear.

All of the above bits come in varying widths. A wider blade increases your ability to steer in soft soils. A narrower blade moves through hard soils better. Contact your Authorized Toro Dealer for a complete list of available blades.

The sondes and receivers are essential to track the position of the drill head throughout the drilling operation. The sonde housing on the drill head opens up to accept the sonde beacon which works with the receiver to track the location, pitch, direction, head orientation, and more of the drill head. Refer to the Tracking System Operator’s Manual for instructions on using the system.

To install the sonde beacon into the sonde housing on the drill head, complete the following:

1. Replace the batteries in the sonde beacon as described in the Tracking System Operator’s Manual.

2. Loosen the screws securing the housing cover to the housing and remove the cover (Figure 58).

   

   Figure 58

   1. Sonde housing
   2. Bolts
   3. Drill bit
   4. Cover holes
   5. Cover

3. Insert the sonde beacon with the forward end toward the drill bit into the sonde housing (Figure 59).

   

   Figure 59

   1. Sonde housing
   2. Sonde beacon
   3. Drill bit

4. Install the housing cover and secure it with the screws (Figure 58).

1. Using the exit-side-lockout transmitter, activate the exit-side lockout to disable the thrust and rotation of the carriage.

   Warning

   If the drill rotates or extends while you or others are manually working on the drill bit or pipe in front of the machine, the worker could get caught in the bit or pipe, causing serious injury, amputation, or death.

   • Activate the exit-side lockout on the exit-side-lockout transmitter before approaching the dill bit or pipe when attached to the machine. This will disable the drill carriage.

   • Do not wear loose clothing or jewelry when working on a drill bit or pipe attached to the machine. Tie long hair up and out of the way.

2. Place the lead bar through the lower wrench (stationary wrench) as shown in Figure 60.

   Important: Do not clamp the wrench on the body of a pipe, or it may damage the pipe. Grip the pipes on the thickened area near the joint.

   

   Figure 60

   1. Drill pipe
   2. Upper wrench (makeup/breakout wrench)
   3. Lower wrench (stationary wrench)
   4. Lead bar

3. Hand thread the lead bar onto the drill spindle pipe threads, then move away from the front of the machine.

4. When the area is clear of people, activate the exit-side lockout using the exit-side-lockout transmitter (the OK-to-Drill light on the control panel should illuminate); press the exit-side-lockout, RESET switch on the control panel.

5. Using the lower wrench (stationary wrench), clamp the lead bar, and tighten the drill spindle to full-seat threads.

6. Double check the drill head and bit to ensure that the fluid ports are clean and free from obstructions.

7. Install the drill head onto the end of the lead bar as directed by the drill head manufacturer, then move away from the front of the machine.

   Important: Do not pull the drill head into the pipe guide, or you may damage the machine or the drill head.

The first step in boring is to create the entry shaft. In this step, you push and bore the drill bit and first few pipes into the ground at an angle from 0 to 16 degrees (with the tracks flat on the ground) until you reach the desired depth of installation.

Important: Drill and ream in a clockwise rotation. If you use a counterclockwise rotation, the pipes will disconnect from each other and may be disconnected underground.

1. When the area is clear of people, activate the exit-side lockout using the exit-side-lockout transmitter (the OK-to-Drill light on the control panel should illuminate); press the exit-side-lockout, RESET switch on the control panel.

2. Turn on the drilling-fluid-pump switch, and allow the fluid pressure to build to 1,379 to 2,068 kPa (200 to 300 psi).

3. Rotate the drill head until the bit is at the 6 o’clock position.

4. Move the carriage forward, driving the bit straight into the ground until the entire dill housing is underground.

5. Continue pushing forward, and begin rotating the drill spindle clockwise to initiate the drilling action.

6. Drill forward until the carriage reaches the end of the frame, then retract it about 6 mm (1/4 inch).

1. Align the pipe joint in the wrench assembly.

2. Close the lower wrench (stationary wrench) onto the first pipe.

   Note: The drilling fluid will automatically shut off when you activate the upper wrench (makeup/breakout wrench).

3. Pull back the carriage approximately 12.7 mm (0.5 inch).

   Note: This will allow the carriage to float, and will not damage the pipe threads.

4. Rotate the drill head counterclockwise until the spindle is completely removed from the pipe.

5. Spray the spindle with thread joint compound, then return the drive carriage to the upper end of the frame.

6. Rotate the pipe-gripper cam to the closest row of pipes in the pipe holder.

7. Lower a pipe into the pipe-gripper cam, and grip it in place.

8. Rotate the pipe gripper until the pipe is centered in front of the spindle on the drive carriage.

9. Rotate the drill spindle clockwise and move the carriage slowly forward to insert the spindle into the female end of the pipe (Figure 56).

   Note: Tighten the joint until the pipe is rotating with the spindle.

10. Move the drive carriage slowly down the frame until the male threads on the pipe are under the thread-joint-compound applicator, and apply thread-joint compound to the threads.

11. Rotate the drill spindle clockwise and move the carriage slowly forward to insert the male end of the pipe into the female end of the previous pipe.

    Note: Tighten the joint until you reach no more than 2,304 N-m (1,700 ft-lb).

12. Release and rotate the pipe-gripper cam clockwise to the HOME position.

    Important: Ensure that you fully rotate the pipe-gripper cam, or the carriage may collide with the gripper, damaging the machine.

13. Rotate the main cam past the fourth row of pipe to the HOME position.

Software version K or newer: After loading the first pipe the software will skip the certain proximity switches to improve operator productivity. The grippers will also function when the pipe loading cam is extended and retracted without operator input.

The drill bit is shaped like a wedge, angled from one side of the bit to the other. When you push the bit through the soil without rotating it, it will veer toward the direction the wedge is pointing. When you rotate the pipe and drill head, it bores through the soil in a straight path.

Figure 61

1. Drill bit

When drilling, the receiver operator follows the drill head as it progresses. The receiver receives signals from the sonde in the drill head identifying its position, depth, pitch, direction, transmitter temperature, and orientation in the soil. The remote console is a screen that remains near you (the drill operator) to show you the information from the receiver while drilling so that you can make steering decisions.

For detailed information on using the receiver and remote console to guide the drill head, refer to the Operator’s Manual that came with your receiver.

Important: Do not steer the drill head more than 20 cm (8 inches) off center for every 3 m (10 ft) of forward travel. If you steer more than this, you will damage the drill pipes.

After creating the entry shaft, you gradually steer the drill head up while pushing forward, following the planned bore path. When you reach the desired depth, level out the drill head and bore the horizontal shaft, adding pipes as you go. While boring, pay close attention to the information relayed back to you by the receiver operator about the status and location of the drill head to ensure that you are following the planned path.

Important: While drilling, watch the sonde temperature. All sondes have a maximum temperature, above which they will be damaged. Friction between the drill head and the soil will cause the temperature to raise. To reduce the temperature, slow down, decrease forward pressure, and increase the drilling-fluid flow. If the drill head is entering a soil type other than what it is designed for, that can also raise the temperature. Assess the situation and pull out the drill head and change it if necessary.

If you run into an obstruction, do the following:

1. Increase the flow of the drilling fluid for a few seconds without drilling, then attempt to continue drilling forward.

   Note: This may loosen the obstruction and allow you to push past it.

2. If the obstruction persists, try one or more of the following options:

   • If the obstruction is in an area where you can dig, stop the drill head with the Exit Side Lockout and dig down to the obstruction to identify it and remove it if possible.

   • Pull the drill head back 15 m (50 ft) or more and steer the drill head to the side, marking a new drill path around the obstacle.

     Important: Do not steer the drill head more than 20 cm (8 inches) off center for every 3 m (10 ft) of forward travel. If you steer more than this, you will damage the drill pipes.

   • If the obstruction is actually a change in soil type, such as a zone of rocky soil, pull the drill head all the way back and change to a drill bit appropriate for drilling through the new soil type.

As you approach the end of the bore, steer the drill head to the exit point, keeping the steering limits in mind as you do so. Before exiting the ground, ensure that everyone is away from the exit point. As soon as you break through, stop the drilling-fluid flow. Extend the drill forward until the entire drill head is out of the ground.

1. Using the exit-side-lockout transmitter, enable the exit side lockout.

2. Remove the drill head from the lead bar.

3. Double check the reamer to ensure that the fluid ports are clean and free from obstructions.

4. Install the reamer and swivel onto the end of the lead bar as directed by the reamer manufacturer.

5. Connect the product to the reamer using an appropriate pulling connection; refer to your Authorized Toro Dealer to acquire the appropriate puller to meet your requirements.

1. Using the exit-side-lockout transmitter, enable the exit side lockout.

2. Install a drill-pipe wiper around the pipe and into the retaining bracket on the front of the machine.

   Note: This will remove most of the dirt and mud from the pipe as you pull it back into the machine, keeping the machine clean. Contact your Authorized Toro Dealer to purchase drill-pipe wipers.

   

   Figure 62

   1. Drill-pipe wiper
   2. Drill pipe

3. Disengage the exit-side lockout and reset the system.

4. Begin rotating the drill spindle clockwise and slowly retract the drive carriage to pull the pipe back into the machine.

5. When the joint between the pipes is centered between the 2 wrenches, the drive carriage will stop, and a green light will illuminate below the spray valve.

6. Close the lower wrench (stationary wrench) onto the pipe joint.

   Note: The drilling fluid will automatically shut off when you close the lower wrench (stationary wrench).

7. Rotate the pipe cam to the drill frame, extend pipe-gripper arms to the pipe, and grip the pipe to support it.

8. Close the upper wrench (makeup/breakout wrench) onto the pipe joint.

9. Rotate the upper wrench (makeup/breakout wrench) counterclockwise until the joint is loosened.

10. Release the upper wrench (makeup/breakout wrench).

11. Pull back the carriage approximately 12.7 mm (0.5 inch).

    Note: This will allow the carriage to float, and will not damage the pipe threads.

12. Rotate the drill spindle counterclockwise, moving rearward slowly until the pipes are separated.

13. Move the drill carriage back until the male, pipe threads just clear the female end of the lower pipe, then close the upper wrench (makeup/breakout wrench) onto the pipe end, but not on the threads.

14. Rotate the drill spindle counterclockwise until the upper-pipe joint is loose but not separated.

15. Release the upper wrench (makeup/breakout wrench).

16. Move the drill carriage back until the pipe is lined up with the pipe holder.

17. Rotate the drill spindle counterclockwise, moving rearward slowly until the spindle fully separates from the pipe.

18. Rotate the pipe-gripper arms until the pipe rests inside the pipe-gripper cam.

19. Rotate the pipe cam to the desired row.

    Note: Fill the outside rows first.

20. Release the pipe gripper, and raise the pipe into the holder row with the pipe elevator.

21. Rotate the pipe cam past the fourth row of pipes to the HOME position.

    Important: Ensure that you fully retract the pipe gripper, or the carriage may collide with the gripper, damaging the machine.

22. Move the drill spindle down the frame under the thread-joint-compound applicator, and spray the spindle with thread joint compound.

23. Rotate the drill spindle clockwise, and move the carriage slowly forward to insert the spindle into the female end of the pipe secured in the lower wrench (stationary wrench).

24. Tighten the joint until you reach the full machine torque.

25. Release the wrench and continue reaming/retraction as needed.

Important: Do not pull the drill head into the pipe guide, or you may damage the machine or the drill head.

1. Using the exit-side-lockout transmitter, enable the exit side lockout.

2. After the reamer has cleared the ground, if you have not already done so, disconnect the product being installed from the reamer.

3. Connect the drilling fluid pump to a source of clean water.

4. Turn the pump on to flush clean water through the pump, spindle, and reamer until the water runs clear.

5. Remove and store the last pipe; refer to Removing Drill Pipes.

6. Leave the lead bar clamped in the lower wrench (stationary wrench), but do not connect the drill spindle to the lead bar.

7. Remove the reamer from the end of the lead bar as directed by the reamer manufacturer.

8. Release the lower wrench (stationary wrench) and pull the lead bar out of the pipe guide.

You can adjust the applicator nozzle to spray thread-joint compound (TJC) either in a fan-shaped spray or as a stream.

• For fan-shaped spray, turn the spray valve on the side of the nozzle horizontal (Figure 63).

• For a stream, turn the spray valve on the side of the nozzle vertical (Figure 63).

Figure 63

1. Spray valve—fan-shaped spray (horizontal)
2. Spray valve—stream (vertical)

1. Loosen the jam nut on the adjustment bolt located on top of the TJC-applicator piston (Figure 64).

   

   Figure 64

   1. Adjustment bolt
   2. Jam nut
   3. TJC-applicator piston

2. Adjust the bolts as follows:

   • To increase the applied volume of compound, thread the bolt out (up).

   • To decrease the applied volume of compound, thread the bolt in (down).

3. When you have attained the desired application volume, tighten the jam nut to secure the adjustment.

1. Stop the machine and stop the engine.

2. Open the stake-down-guard door.

3. Loosen the wing nuts securing the cover straps to the machine (Figure 65).

   

   Figure 65

   1. TJC-applicator piston
   2. Cover
   3. Strap
   4. Wingnut
   5. TJC bucket

4. Rotate the cover and pull the cover straps off the retaining bolts (Figure 65).

5. Lift the cover assembly off and out of the empty thread-joint-compound bucket (Figure 65).

6. Replace the empty bucket with a new full bucket.

7. Place the plunger into the new bucket and lower the cover assembly onto the bucket (Figure 65).

8. Slide the cover straps over the retaining bolts, and rotate the cover to seat the straps on the bolts (Figure 65).

9. Tighten the wing nuts.

1. Start the engine.

2. Lower the thrust frame to the fully-lowered position.

3. Stop the engine.

4. Position the cylinder lock over the cylinder rod (Figure 73).

5. Secure the cylinder lock with the cotter pin and clevis pin (Figure 73).

6. Turn the engine to the ON position, and raise the thrust frame until it rests on the cylinder lock.

   

   Figure 73

   1. Cotter pin
   2. Cylinder lock
   3. Lift cylinder rod
   4. Clevis pin
   5. Lift cylinder

1. Start the engine.

2. Lower the thrust frame to the fully lowered position.

3. Stop the engine.

4. Remove the cotter pin and the clevis pin that secure the cylinder lock (Figure 73).

5. Remove the cylinder lock.

6. Turn the engine to the ON position, and raise the thrust frame.

7. Store the cylinder lock at the rear of the pipe holder (Figure 74).

   

   Figure 74

   1. Location behind the rear of the pipe holder

1. Start the engine.

2. Check the restricted, air-cleaner indicator on the display screen; refer to the Air-Cleaner Indicator Screen in the Software Guide for this machine.

3. Replace the air-filter element(s) as follows:

   1. Replace the primary, air-cleaner filter; refer to Servicing the Air-Cleaner Filter.

   2. Repeat steps 1 and 2; if the restricted air-cleaner indicator is still shown on the display screen, replace the secondary, air-cleaner filter; refer to Servicing the Air-Cleaner Filter.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, stop the engine, and remove the ignition key.

2. Open the rear-access door; refer to Opening the Rear-Access Door.

3. Squeeze the sides of the dust valve on the air-cleaner cover to release any collected water, dust, or dirt from the valve. (Figure 87).

   Note: Ensure that there are no obstructions inside the dust valve.

   

   Figure 87

   1. Dust valve
   2. Air-cleaner cover

Replace the filters only when the “Check Air Filter” indicator appears on the display screen; refer to Checking the Air-Cleaner Indicator.

Note: Contact your Authorized Toro Dealer to order replacement filters.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, stop the engine, and remove the ignition key.

2. Open the rear-access door.

3. Before removing the filter, clean out all debris from the inside of the filter body using low-pressure air at 275 kPa (40 psi).

   Important: Avoid using high pressure air which could force dirt through the filter into the intake tract. This cleaning process prevents debris from migrating into the intake when the primary filter is removed.

4. Using the air-filter handles, remove the primary filter from the air-cleaner cover (Figure 89).

   Important: Do not clean the used filter.

   

   Figure 89

   1. Top of primary filter
   2. Air-filter handles
   3. Bottom of primary filter
   4. Air-filter cover

5. Inspect the new filter for shipping damage, checking the sealing end of the filter and the body.

   Note: Do not use a damaged element.

6. Insert the new primary filter by applying pressure to the outer rim of the filter to seat it in the air-cleaner cover.

7. Remove the rubber outlet valve from the cover, clean the cavity, and replace the outlet valve; refer to Cleaning the Dust Valve.

8. Install the cover; refer to Installing the Air-Cleaner Cover.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, stop the engine, and remove the ignition key.

2. Open the front hood.

3. Remove the dipstick (Figure 91), and wipe it clean.

   

   Figure 91

   Operator’s side

   1. Dipstick

4. Insert the dipstick into the oil fill tube, pull the dipstick out again, and read the oil level on the dipstick.

   Note: The oil level on the dipstick should be at the High mark or between the Low and High marks. If the oil is below the Low mark, complete the following procedure:

   1. Remove the fill cap (Figure 92) and add oil until the level reaches the High mark. Do not overfill.

      Important: Use an oil canister with a bendable hose or a funnel to fill the machine with oil.

      

      Figure 92

      1. Oil-fill cap

   2. Install the oil-fill cap and the dipstick.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, stop the engine, and remove the ignition key.

2. Open the front hood.

3. Align a drain pan or several rags under the oil filter and the oil-filter adapter (Figure 93).

   

   Figure 93

   1. Oil filter
   2. Oil-filter adapter

4. Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise and remove the oil filter (Figure 93).

   Note: Discard the oil filter.

5. Using a clean rag, wipe clean the surface of the oil-filter adapter where the oil filter seats with a clean rag.

6. Fill the new oil filter with the specified engine oil.

7. Apply a thin layer of the specified engine oil to the seal of the oil filter.

8. Align the oil filter to the oil-filter adapter, and rotate it clockwise until the seal of the oil filter contacts the oil-filter adapter (Figure 93).

   Important: Do not use an oil filter strap wrench to install the new oil filter. The wrench can dent an oil filter and therefore cause a leak.

9. Hand tighten the oil filter an additional 1/2 turn (Figure 93).

10. Remove the oil pan or rags you placed in step 3 and dispose of the used oil according to local codes.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, stop the engine, and remove the ignition key.

   Warning

   Allow the engine and oil to cool before draining the oil. Hot oil may cause serious injury.

2. Ensure that the drain hose (Figure 94) is carefully pulled up and the end of the hose is placed in a drain pan.

   

   Figure 94

   1. Drain hose
   2. Drain valve

3. Open the drain valve (Figure 94).

4. Drain the oil into the drain pan.

5. When the oil stops, close the drain valve (Figure 94).

6. Place the drain hose back into the original position (Figure 94).

7. Change the engine oil filter; refer to Changing the Engine-Oil Filter.

8. Remove the oil-fill cap from the filler neck by pulling the cap upward.

   

   Figure 95

   1. Filler neck
   2. Oil-fill cap
   3. Funnel

   Note: Use a funnel with a flexible, attached hose to direct the engine oil into the engine.

9. Fill the crankcase with approximately 7.5 L (7.9 US qt) of the specified engine oil; refer to Servicing the Engine Oil and Filter.

10. Install the oil-fill cap.

11. Start the engine, run it at idle for about 2 minutes, and check for oil leaks.

12. Stop the engine and remove the key.

13. Wait for 2 or 3 minutes and check the oil level; refer to Checking the Engine-Oil Level.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, stop the engine, and remove the ignition key.

2. Open the front hood; refer to Opening the Front Hood.

3. Place clean rags under the primary fuel filter (Figure 98).

4. Loosen the hose clamps and separate the primary fuel filter from the fuel hoses (Figure 98).

   Note: Do not remove the hose clamps from the hoses.

   Note: Discard the fuel filter.

5. Align the new primary fuel filter to the hoses with the arrow printed on the filter pointing forward.

6. Slip the hoses over the hose fitting of the primary fuel filter, and tighten the hose clamps (Figure 98).

7. Replace the secondary fuel filter; refer to Replacing the Secondary Fuel Filter.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, stop the engine, and remove the ignition key.

2. Open the front hood; refer to Opening the Front Hood.

3. Align a drain pan or several rags under the secondary fuel filter and the fuel-filter adapter (Figure 99).

   

   Figure 99

   1. Secondary fuel filter
   2. Filter adapter

4. Rotate the fuel filter counterclockwise and remove the fuel filter (Figure 99).

   Note: Discard the fuel filter.

5. Using a clean rag, wipe clean the surface of the fuel-filter adapter where the fuel filter seats with a clean rag.

6. Fill the new fuel filter with the specified fuel.

7. Align the fuel filter to the fuel-filter adapter, and rotate it clockwise until the seal of the fuel filter contacts the fuel-filter adapter (Figure 99).

   Important: Do not use a fuel filter strap wrench to install the new oil filter. The wrench can dent a fuel filter and therefore cause a leak.

8. Hand tighten the fuel filter and additional 1/2 turn (Figure 99).

9. Remove the drain pan or rags you placed in step 3 and dispose of the used fuel according to local codes.

If the track seems loose, tighten the track tension as follows:

1. Park the machine on a level surface, stop the engine, and remove the ignition key.

2. Remove dirt and debris found around the track-tension grease valve (Figure 109).

   Important: Ensure that the area surrounding the track-tension grease valve is clean before beginning to adjust the track tension.

3. Remove the retaining bolts and cover that house the track-tension grease valve.

4. Apply grease to the fitting until the tension reaches 31,026 kPa (4,500 psi) as shown in Figure 109.

   

   Figure 109

   Track-tension grease valve shown

5. Remove excess grease from around the valve.

6. Install the cover and retaining bolts.

7. Repeat steps 2 through 6 to tighten the track tension on the other side.

If the track seems tight, loosen the track tension as follows:

1. Park the machine on a level surface, stop the engine, and remove the ignition key.

2. Remove dirt and debris found around the track-tension grease valve (Figure 109).

   Important: Ensure that the entire area surrounding the track-tension grease valve is clean before beginning to adjust the track tension.

3. Remove the retaining bolts and the cover that house the track-tension grease valve.

4. Turn the track-tension grease valve counterclockwise no more than 1 revolution (Figure 109).

   Note: A 1-revolution turn will release grease and loosen the track.

5. When the tension reaches 31,026 kPa (4,500 psi), turn the track-tension grease valve clockwise to tighten it.

6. Remove excess grease from around the valve.

7. Install the cover and retaining bolts.

8. Repeat steps 2 through 7 to loosen the track tension on the other side.

Important: Do not pour coolant onto the ground or into an unapproved container that can leak.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, stop the engine, and remove the ignition key.

2. Allow the engine to cool.

3. Open the rear-access door.

   Note: Look to the left when you open the rear-access door, and you will find the drain plug tucked away in the back-left corner.

4. Place a drain pan under the drain plug (Figure 111).

   Note: The coolant capacity of both the engine and the radiator is 16.8 L (17.7 US qt).

   

   Figure 111

   1. Radiator drain plug

5. Open the drain plug for the radiator and allow the coolant system to drain completely.

   Note: Dispose of the used coolant properly according to local codes.

6. Clean the threads on the drain plug and apply 3 layers of PTFE sealing tape.

7. Close the drain plug (Figure 111).

Engine and radiator coolant capacity: 16.8 L (17.7 US qt)

1. Park the machine on a level surface, stop the engine, and remove the ignition key.

2. Condition the cooling system as follows:

   1. Ensure that the coolant is drained from the radiator and that the drain plug is closed; refer to Draining the Coolant from the System.

   2. Add a cooling system cleaning solution to the to the radiator through the filler neck (Figure 112).

      Note: Use cleaning solution of 21 g (12 oz dry) of sodium carbonate for every 17 L (18 US qt) of water; otherwise, use a commercially available equivalent. Follow the directions that come with the cleaning solution.

      

      Figure 112

      1. Filler neck (radiator)
      2. Funnel
      3. Coolant-system cleaning solution

   3. Close the drain plug (Figure 111).

      Important: Do not install the radiator cap.

   4. Operate the engine for 5 minutes or until the coolant temperature indicates 82° C (180° F), and then stop the engine.

      Caution

      The cleaning solution is hot and can cause burns.

      Stay away from the discharge end of the coolant drain plug.

   5. Open the drain plug for the radiator, and drain the cleaning solution into a drain pan.

   6. Clean the threads on the drain plug and apply 3 layers of PTFE sealing tape.

   7. Close the drain plug.

3. Flush the cooling system as follows:

   1. Open the filler-neck cap.

   2. Fill the radiator with clean water (Figure 113).

      

      Figure 113

      1. Filler neck
      2. Funnel
      3. Clean water

   3. Close the filler-neck cap.

   4. Operate the engine for 5 minutes or until the coolant temperature indicates 82°C (180°F), and then stop the engine.

      Caution

      The water is hot and can cause burns.

      Stay away from the discharge end of the coolant drain plug.

   5. Open the drain plug and drain the water into a drain pan.

   6. Clean the threads on the drain plug and apply 3 layers of PTFE sealing tape.

   7. If the water drained from the radiator is dirty, perform steps 3-1 through 3-5 until the water drained from the radiator is clean.

   8. Close the drain plug (Figure 111).

Important: You must fill the cooling system properly to prevent air locks in the cooling passages. Failing to vent the cooling system properly can severely damage the cooling system and engine.

Important: Use a mixture of 50% ethylene glycol and 50% water mixture or equivalent in the machine. The lowest ambient operating temperature for this mixture is above -37° C (-34° F). If the ambient temperature is lower, adjust the mixture. Use a mixture of ethylene glycol and water or equivalent in the machine all year.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, stop the engine, and remove the ignition key.

2. Remove the bolts from the coolant-access cover between the front hood and the rear cover.

   

   Figure 114

   1. Coolant-access cover
   2. Bolts

3. Remove the radiator cap (Figure 115).

   

   Figure 115

   1. Radiator cap

4. Fill the radiator with coolant until the fluid level is up to the bottom of the filler neck (Figure 116).

   Note: The coolant capacity of both the engine and the radiator is 16.8 L (17.7 US qt).

   

   Figure 116

   1. Coolant level (at the bottom of the filler neck)
   2. Filler neck
   3. Coolant (50/50 ethylene glycol and water or equivalent)

5. Install the radiator filler cap, ensuring that it is tightly sealed (Figure 115).

6. Start the engine and run it at half throttle for 5 minutes.

7. Stop the engine and remove the key.

8. Wait 30 minutes, then check the fluid level in the radiator sight gauge; refer to Checking the Coolant Level in the Radiator.

   Note: If it is low, add coolant.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, stop the engine, and remove the ignition key.

2. Open the front hood.

3. Inspect the belt for cuts, cracks, loose cords, grease, oil, twisting, or signs of abnormal wear (Figure 117).

   Note: Replace the belt if it is excessively worn or damaged.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, stop the engine, and remove the ignition key.

2. Open the front hood.

3. Align a straight edge over the drive belt and across the pulleys as shown in Figure 117.

   

   Figure 117

4. Press the belt down at the midway point between the fan pulley and the alternator pulley as shown in Figure 117.

   Note: The range of belt deflection between the straight edge and the belt should be 7 to 9 mm (9/32 to 11/32 in), under a load of 10 kg (22 lb).

5. If the tension of the belt is above or below the specified range, adjust the drive belt tension; refer to Adjusting the Tension of the Belt.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, stop the engine, and remove the ignition key.

2. Open the front hood.

3. Loosen the nut and bolt at the pivot point for the alternator (Figure 118).

   

   Figure 118

   1. Adjustment bolt
   2. Nut (alternator pivot point)
   3. Alternator
   4. Bolt (alternator pivot point)

4. Loosen the adjustment bolt on the alternator (Figure 118).

5. Move the alternator away from the engine to increase the belt tension; move the alternator toward the engine to decrease the belt tension (Figure 118).

6. Tighten the alternator adjustment bolt (Figure 118).

7. Check the tension of the belt; refer to Checking the Tension of the Belt.

8. If the belt tension is correct, tighten the nut and bolt at the pivot point for the alternator (Figure 118); otherwise, repeat steps 4 through 7.

Check the hydraulic fluid as follows:

1. Park the machine on a level surface, stop the engine, and remove the ignition key.

2. Wait 10 minutes to allow the engine to cool and the hydraulic oil to stabilize.

3. Open the rear-access door.

4. Look at the sight gauge on the hydraulic tank and check the level of the oil (Figure 119).

   

   Figure 119

   1. Full oil level
   2. Low oil level

5. If the level is low, open the hydraulic-tank cap (Figure 120), add a small amount of oil and wait 2 minutes for the oil level to stabilize in the sight gauge (Figure 119).

   Note: The oil level is between 1/2 to 2/3 full in the sight gauge when the oil is at ambient temperature or if the engine has not yet been started for the day.

   

   Figure 120

   1. Hydraulic-tank cap

6. Continue to add the appropriate fluid in small increments until it reaches Full on the sight gauge.

7. Install cap onto the filler neck.

Important: If the fluid becomes contaminated, contact your Authorized Toro Dealer, because the system must be flushed. Contaminated fluid looks milky or black when compared to clean oil.

Important: Use of any other filter may void the warranty on some components.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, stop the engine, and remove the ignition key.

2. Open the rear-access door.

3. Raise the machine using proper equipment.

   Warning

   Raising the unit relying solely on mechanical or hydraulic jacks could be dangerous. The mechanical or hydraulic jacks may not be enough support or may malfunction allowing the unit to fall, which could cause injury or death.

   Do not rely solely on mechanical or hydraulic jacks for support.

   Use adequate jack stands or equivalent support.

4. Place a large draining container under the hydraulic fluid tank.

5. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the tank.

6. Clean the threads on the drain plug and apply 3 layers of PTFE sealing tape.

7. Drain the hydraulic fluid flow into the container.

   Important: The capacity of the hydraulic-fluid tank is 170 L (45 US gal), so ensure that you have a container of at least 182 L (48 US gal) to drain the fluid into.

8. Install the drain plug when the hydraulic fluid stops draining.

9. Fill the reservoir with hydraulic fluid.

   Important: Use only the hydraulic fluids specified. Other fluids could cause system damage.

10. Install the reservoir cap.

11. Start the engine and use all of the hydraulic controls to distribute hydraulic fluid throughout the system.

12. Check for leaks, then stop the engine.

13. Check the fluid level and add enough to raise level the level to the Full mark on the dipstick.

    Note: Do not overfill.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, stop the engine, and remove the ignition key.

2. Open the front hood.

3. Align a drain pan or several rags under the hydrostatic-charge filter (Figure 121).

   

   Figure 121

   1. Hydrostatic-charge filter

4. Rotate the hydrostatic-charge filter counterclockwise and remove the filter (Figure 121).

   Note: Discard the hydrostatic-charge filter.

5. Using a clean rag, wipe clean the surface where the hydrostatic-charge filter seats with a clean rag.

6. Align the hydrostatic-charge filter to where it seats, and rotate it clockwise until the seal of the filter contacts the adapter (Figure 121).

1. Park the machine on a level surface, stop the engine, and remove the ignition key.

2. Open the front hood.

3. Align a drain pan or several rags under the charge filter (Figure 122).

   

   Figure 122

   1. High-pressure hydraulic filter

4. Rotate the high-pressure hydraulic filter counterclockwise and remove the filter (Figure 122).

5. Using a clean rag, wipe clean the surface where the high-pressure hydraulic filter seats with a clean rag.

6. Align the high-pressure hydraulic filter to where it seats, and rotate it clockwise until the torque reaches 61 N-m (45 ft-lb) as shown in Figure 122.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, stop the engine, and remove the ignition key.

2. Open the rear-access door.

3. Align a drain pan or several rags under the charge filter (Figure 123).

   

   Figure 123

   Front-side bolts shown

   1. Hydraulic-return filter
   2. Bolts

4. With one hand under the hydraulic-return filter, remove the 4 bolts as shown in Figure 123.

   Note: There are 2 other bolts on the back side that need to be removed.

5. Pull down and remove the filter.

6. Using a clean rag, wipe clean the surface where the hydraulic-return filter seats with a clean rag.

7. Align the new hydraulic return filter to where it seats, and tighten the 4 bolts (Figure 123).

Inspect the hydraulic lines and hoses daily for leaks, kinked lines, loose mounting supports, wear, loose fittings, weather deterioration, and chemical deterioration. Make all necessary repairs before operating.

The test ports are used to test the pressure in the hydraulic circuits. Contact your Authorized Toro Dealer for assistance.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, stop the engine, and remove the ignition key.

2. Remove the oil-level plug on the crankcase (Figure 124).

   • If oil drains from the oil-level hole, insert the oil-level plug.

     Note: The oil level is sufficient if oil drains from the opening, or is at least at the level of the oil-level plug.

   • If oil does not drain from the oil-level, or is not at the level of the oil-level plug, insert the oil-level plug, and open the oil-filler cap to add the specified oil.

   

   Figure 124

   1. Oil-filler cap
   2. Oil-level plug

3. Ensure that the oil is at the oil-fill line as shown in Figure 124.

   Note: If the oil is below the oil-fill line, refer to step 8 of Changing the Drilling-Fluid-Pump Oil and add the necessary amount of oil.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, stop the engine, and remove the ignition key.

2. Allow the engine to cool.

3. Lower the thrust frame, and ensure that the cylinder lock is installed; refer to Using the Cylinder Lock.

4. Remove the drain plug and place a drain pan under the drain-plug hole (Figure 125).

   

   Figure 125

   1. Oil-filler cap
   2. Drain plug
   3. Drain pan

5. Clean the threads on the drain plug and apply 3 layers of PTFE sealing tape.

6. Allow all of the oil to drain from drain plug into the oil pan (Figure 125).

7. Install the drain plug.

8. Remove the oil-filler cap (Figure 125) and add approximately 1.8 L (4 US qt) of oil, or until the oil reaches the level of the oil-level plug as shown in Figure 124.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, stop the engine, and remove the ignition key.

2. Open the front hood.

3. Align a drain pan or several rags under the charge filter (Figure 126).

   

   Figure 126

   1. Charge filter

4. Rotate the charge filter counterclockwise and remove the filter (Figure 126).

   Note: Discard the charge filter.

5. Using a clean rag, wipe clean the surface where the charge filter seats with a clean rag.

6. Align the charge filter to where it seats, and rotate it clockwise until the seal of the filter contacts the adapter (Figure 126).