60in Side Discharge Mower

Parts needed for this procedure:

1. On one side of the traction unit, loosen (do not remove) the wheel nuts securing the wheel and tire assembly to the front wheel studs.

2. Jack up the machine until the front wheel is off of the floor. Use jack stands or block the machine to prevent it from accidentally falling.

3. Remove the wheel nuts and slide the wheel and tire assembly off of the studs.

4. Mount a lift arm to the pivot bracket with a pivot pin and a cotter pin (Figure 3). Mount the lift arm with the bend positioned outward.

5. Hook the brake return spring to the tab on the lift arm (Figure 3).

   

   Figure 3

   1. Pivot pin
   2. Lift arm
   3. Pivot bracket
   4. Brake return spring
   5. Tab

6. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Torque the wheel nuts to 102 to 108 N∙m (75 to 80 ft-lb).

7. Repeat the procedure on the opposite side of the machine.

Parts needed for this procedure:

1. Move the cutting unit into position in front of the traction unit.

2. Move the lift lever to the FLOAT position. Push a lift arm down until the holes in the lift arm line up with the holes in the castor arm bracket and the height of cut rod can be inserted into the lift arm pads (Figure 4).

3. Secure the lift arm to the castor arm with 2 thrust washers, a clevis pin, and a large hairpin cotter. Position the thrust washers between the lift arm and the castor arm bracket (Figure 4). Insert end of cotter pin into the slot in the castor arm tab to retain cotter pin.

4. Repeat the procedure on the opposite lift arm.

5. Start the traction unit and raise the cutting unit.

6. Push down on the rear of the cutting unit and insert the height of cut rods through the lift arm pads.

7. Install the height of cut collars onto the height of cut rods and secure with the clevis pins and small hairpin cotters (Figure 4). Head of clevis pin to be positioned toward the front of the cutting unit.

8. Install a bolt (1/2 x 3/4 inch) and a washer to the top of each height of cut rod (Figure 4).

   

   Figure 4

   1. Lift arm
   2. Castor arm bracket
   3. Height-of-cut rod
   4. Lift arm pads
   5. Thrust washers
   6. Clevis pin
   7. Hairpin cotter—large
   8. Height-of-cut collar
   9. Clevis pin
   10. Hairpin cotter—small
   11. Bolt (1/2 x 3/4 inch)

Cutting unit model 30366 is equipped with a shorter PTO shaft which must be installed on the traction unit as follows:

1. Remove the cotter pin, bolts and locknuts securing the female end of the PTO shaft to the traction unit shaft.

2. Remove the PTO shaft from the traction unit shaft and retain it for future applications.

3. Install the female end of the PTO shaft, supplied with the cutting unit, to the traction unit shaft with the cotter pin.

4. Tighten the bolts and locknuts.

1. Slide the male PTO shaft into the female PTO shaft. Align the mounting holes in the gear case input shaft with the holes in the PTO shaft and slide them together.

   

   Figure 5

   1. PTO shaft
   2. Bolts and locknuts
   3. Gear case
   4. Roll pin

2. Secure them with a roll pin.

3. Tighten the bolts and nuts and torque to 18 to 25 N∙m (175 to 225 in-lb).

Before operating the machine, it must be greased to ensure proper lubricating characteristics; refer to Lubrication. Failure to properly grease the machine will result in premature failure of critical parts.

A selection of Toro approved attachments and accessories is available for use with the machine to enhance and expand its capabilities. Contact your Authorized Service Dealer or authorized Toro distributor or go to www.Toro.com for a list of all approved attachments and accessories.

To ensure optimum performance and continued safety certification of the machine, use only genuine Toro replacement parts and accessories. Replacement parts and accessories made by other manufacturers could be dangerous, and such use could void the product warranty.

The height of cut is adjustable from 25 to 127 mm (1 to 5 inches) in 13 mm (1/2 inch) increments. To adjust the height of cut, position the castor wheel axles in the upper or lower holes of the castor forks, add or remove an equal number of spacers from the castor forks and secure the height of cut collar to the desired holes in the height of cut rod.

1. Start the engine and raise the cutting unit off the floor so that the height of cut can be changed. Stop the engine and remove the key after the cutting unit is raised.

2. Position the castor wheel axles in the same holes in both castor forks. Refer to Figure 6 and Figure 7 to determine the correct holes for the setting.

   

   Figure 6

   1. Tensioning cap
   2. Spacers
   3. Shims
   4. Axle mounting holes
   5. Castor wheel
   

   Figure 7

   Note: When operating in 64 mm (2–1/2 inch) height of cut or higher, the axle bolt must be installed in the lower castor fork hole to prevent grass buildup between the wheel and the fork. When operating in height of cuts lower than 64 mm (2–1/2 inch) and grass buildup is detected, reverse the machines direction to pull any clippings away from the wheel/fork area.

3. Remove the tensioning cap from the spindle shaft (Figure 6) and slide the spindle out of the castor arm. Put the 2 shims (1/8 inch) onto the spindle shaft as they were originally installed. These shims are required to achieve a level across the entire width of the cutting units. Slide the appropriate number of 1/2 inch spacers onto the spindle shaft to get the desired height of cut; then slide the washer onto the shaft.

   Refer to Figure 7 to determine the combinations of spacers for the setting.

4. Push the castor spindle through the castor arm. Install the shims (as they were originally installed) and the remaining spacers onto the spindle shaft. Install the tensioning cap to secure the assembly.

5. Remove the hairpin cotter and clevis pin securing the height of cut collar to the height of cut rod on the rear of the cutting unit (Figure 8).

   

   Figure 8

   1. Height-of-cut rod
   2. Height-of-cut collar
   3. Clevis pin and hairpin cotter

6. Align the height-of-cut collar to the desired height-of-cut holes on the height of cut rod (Figure 8 and Figure 9).

7. Secure the adjustment with the clevis pin and hairpin cotter.

   Note: Position the head of the clevis pin toward the front of the deck, if possible.

   Note: When using 25 mm (1 inch), 38 mm (1-1/2 inch), or occasionally 51 mm (2 inch) height of cut, move the skids and roller to the highest holes.

   

   Figure 9

Note: If the cutting unit is to be used in the 25 or 38 mm (1 or 1-1/2 inch) height-of-cut setting, the cutting unit rollers must be repositioned in the top bracket holes.

1. To adjust the front rollers, remove the screw and nut securing the roller shaft to the deck bracket (Figure 10).

   

   Figure 10

   1. Roller
   2. Roller shaft

2. Slide the shaft out of the lower bracket holes, align the roller with the top holes, and install the shaft.

3. Install the screw and nut to secure the assemblies.

4. To adjust the rear (internal) rollers, refer to Figure 11.

Figure 11

1. Internal rollers

Mount the skids in the lower position when operating in height of cuts higher than 64 mm (2-1/2 inches) and in the higher position when operating in height of cuts lower than 64 mm (2-1/2 inches).

Note: When the skids become worn, you can switch the skid to the opposite sides of the mower, flipping them over. This will allow you to use the skids longer before replacing them.

1. Disengage the PTO and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Loosen the screw at the front of each skid (Figure 12).

4. Remove the flange-head bolts and nuts from each skid.

5. Move each skid to the desired position and secure them with the flange-head bolts and nuts (Figure 12).

   Note: Only use the top or center sets of holes to adjust the skids. The bottom holes are used when switching sides on a Guardian mower, at which time they become the top holes on the other side of the mower.

   

   Figure 12

   1. Screw
   2. Flange-head bolt
   3. Skid
   4. Nut

6. Torque the screw at the front of each skid to 9 to 11 N∙m (80 to 100 in-lb).

The mower discharge flow can be adjusted for different types of mowing conditions. Position the cam locks and baffle to give the best quality of cut.

1. To adjust the cam locks, swing the lever up to loosen the cam lock (Figure 13).

2. Adjust the baffle and cam locks in the slots to the desired discharge flow.

3. Swing the lever back over to tighten the baffle and cam locks (Figure 13).

4. If the cam locks do not lock the baffle into place or it is too tight, loosen the lever and then rotate the cam lock. Adjust the cam lock until the desired locking pressure is achieved.

   

   Figure 13

   1. Unlock lever
   2. Rotate the cam lock to increase or decrease locking pressure
   3. Position the baffle
   4. Lock lever

The following figures are only recommendations for use. Adjustments will vary by grass type, moisture content, and height of grass.

Note: If the engine power draws down and the mower ground speed is the same, open up the baffle.

Position B

Use this position when bagging. Always align it with the blower opening.

Figure 15

Cutting unit pitch is the difference in height of cut from the front of the blade plane to the back of the blade plane. Use a blade pitch of 6 mm (1/4 inch), meaning that the back of the blade plane is 6 mm (1/4 inch) higher than the front.

1. Position the machine on a level surface on the shop floor.

2. Set the cutting unit to the desired height of cut.

3. Rotate 1 blade so that it points straight forward.

4. Using a short ruler, measure from the floor to the front tip of the blade. Rotate the blade tip to the rear and measure from the floor to the tip of the blade.

5. Subtract the front dimension from the rear dimension to calculate the blade pitch.

6. Loosen the jam nuts on the bottom of the height-of-cut rods (Figure 17).

   

   Figure 17

   1. Height-of-cut rod
   2. Jam nut

7. Rotate the height-of-cut rods to raise or lower the rear of the cutting unit and attain the correct cutting unit pitch.

8. Tighten the jam nuts.

Due to differences in grass conditions and the counterbalance setting of the traction unit, it is advised that grass be cut and appearance checked before formal cutting is started.

1. Set the cutting unit to the desired height of cut; refer to Adjusting the Height of Cut.

2. Check and adjust front and rear tractor tire pressure to 138 kPa (20 psi).

3. Check and adjust all castor tire pressures to 345 kPa (50 psi).

4. Check for bent blades; refer to Checking for a Bent Blade.

5. Cut grass in a test area to determine if all cutting units are cutting at the same height.

6. If cutting unit adjustments are still needed, find a flat surface using a 2 m (6 ft) or longer straight edge.

7. To ease measuring blade plane, raise the height of cut to the highest position; refer to Adjusting the Height of Cut.

8. Lower the cutting unit onto the flat surface. Remove the covers from the top of the cutting units.

9. Rotate the blade on each spindle until the ends face forward and backward.

10. Measure from the floor to the front tip of the cutting edge.

11. Adjust the shims on the castor fork(s) to match the height of cut to the decal; refer to Adjusting the Height of Cut.

The mower has a hinged grass deflector that disperses clippings to the side and down toward the turf.

The machine has grease fittings that must be lubricated regularly with No. 2 lithium grease. Lubricate all bearings and bushings immediately after every washing.

Lubricate the following areas:

• Castor fork shaft bushings (Figure 18)

  

  Figure 18

• Spindle shaft bearings (located under the pulley) (Figure 19)

  

  Figure 19

• Idler arm shaft bearings (Figure 19)

• Front-lift arm pivots (Figure 20)

  

  Figure 20

• Rear-lift arm pivots (Figure 21)

  

  Figure 21

The gearbox is designed to operate on either petroleum or synthetic SAE 80W–90 gear lube. Although the gearbox is shipped with lubricant from the factory, check the level before operating the cutting unit. The gearbox capacity is 283 ml (12 oz).

1. Position the machine and cutting unit on a level surface.

2. Remove the dipstick/fill plug from the top of the gearbox (Figure 22) and make sure that the lubricant is between the marks on the dipstick. If the lubricant level is low, add enough lubricant until the level is between the marks.

   

   Figure 22

   1. Dipstick/fill plug

1. Position the machine on level surface, lower the cutting unit to the floor, move the lift lever to the FLOAT position, shut off the engine, and engage the parking brake.

2. Remove the bolt and washer mounted to the top of each height of cut rod (Figure 23).

   

   Figure 23

   1. Height-of-cut rod
   2. Bolt and washer
   3. Height-of-cut collar
   4. Hairpin cotter and clevis pin

3. Remove the hairpin and clevis pin securing the height of cut collar to the height of cut rod on the rear of the cutting unit (Figure 23). Remove the height of cut collar.

4. Remove the hairpin cotters and clevis pins securing the lift arms to the castor arm brackets (Figure 24).

   

   Figure 24

   1. Lift arm
   2. Clevis pin
   3. Hairpin cotter
   4. Castor arm bracket

5. Roll the cutting unit away from the traction unit, separating the male and female sections of the PTO shaft (Figure 25).

   

   Figure 25

   1. PTO shaft

   Danger

   If the engine is started and the PTO shaft is allowed to rotate, serious injury could result.

   Do not start the engine and engage the PTO lever when the PTO shaft is not connected to the gearbox on the cutting unit.

The castor arms have bushings pressed into the top and bottom of the tube, and after many hours of operation, the bushings wear.

To check the bushings, move the castor fork back and forth and from side to side. If the castor spindle is loose inside the bushings, the bushings are worn; replace them.

1. Raise the cutting unit so that the wheels are off of the floor. Block the cutting unit so that it cannot accidentally fall.

2. Remove the tensioning cap, spacer(s), and thrust washer from the top of the castor spindle.

3. Pull the castor spindle out of the mounting tube. Allow the thrust washer and spacer(s) to remain on the bottom of the spindle.

4. Insert a pin punch into the top or bottom of the mounting tube and drive the bushing out of the tube (Figure 26). Also, drive the other bushing out of the tube. Clean the inside of the tubes to remove dirt.

   

   Figure 26

   1. Castor arm tube
   2. Bushings

5. Apply grease to the inside and outside of the new bushings. Use a hammer and flat plate to drive the bushings into the mounting tube.

6. Inspect the castor spindle for wear and replace it if damaged.

7. Push the castor spindle through the bushings and mounting tube, slide the thrust washer and spacer(s) onto the spindle, and install the tensioning cap on the castor spindle.

1. Remove the locknut from the bolt holding the castor wheel assembly between the castor fork (Figure 27). Grasp the castor wheel and slide the bolt out of the fork or pivot arm.

2. Remove the bearing from the wheel hub and allow the bearing spacer to fall out (Figure 27). Remove the bearing from the opposite side of the wheel hub.

3. Check the bearings, spacer, and inside of the wheel hub for wear. Replace any damaged parts.

4. To assemble the castor wheel, push the bearing into the wheel hub. When installing the bearings, press on the outer race of the bearing.

   

   Figure 27

   1. Castor wheel
   2. Castor fork
   3. Bearings
   4. Bearing spacer

5. Slide the bearing spacer into the wheel hub. Push the other bearing into the open end of the wheel hub to captivate the bearing spacer inside the wheel hub.

6. Install the castor wheel assembly between the castor fork and secure it in place with the bolt and locknut.

If there is mismatch between the blades, the grass will appear streaked when it is cut. This problem can be corrected by making sure that the blades are straight and all of the blades are cutting on the same plane.

1. Using a 1 m (3 ft) long carpenter’s level, find a level surface on the shop floor.

2. Raise the height of cut to the highest position; refer to Adjusting the Height of Cut.

3. Lower the cutting unit onto the flat surface. Remove the covers from the top of the cutting unit.

4. Rotate the blades until the ends face forward and backward. Measure from the floor to the front tip of the cutting edge. Remember this dimension. Then rotate the same blade so that the opposite end is forward, and measure again. The difference between the dimensions must not exceed 3 mm (1/8 inch). If the dimension exceeds 3 mm (1/8 inch), replace the blade because it is bent. Make sure to measure all of the blades.

5. Compare the measurements of the outer blades with the center blade. The center blade must not be more than 10 mm (3/8 inch) lower than the outer blades. If the center blade is more than 10 mm (3/8 inch) lower than the outer blades, proceed to step 6 and add shims between the spindle housing and the bottom of the cutting unit.

6. Remove the bolts, flat washers, lock washers, and nuts from the outer spindle in the area where the shims must be added. To raise or lower the blade, add a shim, Part No. 3256-24, between the spindle housing and the bottom of the cutting unit. Continue to check the alignment of the blades and add shims until the tips of the blades are within the required dimension.

   Important: Do not use more than three shims at any one hole location. Use decreasing numbers of shims in adjacent holes if more than one shim is added to any one hole location.

7. Install the belt covers.

The blade drive belt, tensioned by the spring loaded idler pulley, is very durable. However, after many hours of use, the belt will show signs of wear. Signs of a worn belt are squealing when belt is rotating, blades slipping when cutting grass, frayed edges, burn marks, and cracks. Replace the belt if any of these conditions occur.

1. Lower the cutting unit to the shop floor. Remove the belt covers from the top of the cutting unit and set the covers aside.

2. Using a torque wrench or similar tool, move the idler pulley (Figure 32) away from the drive belt to release the belt tension and allow the belt to be slipped off the gearbox pulley (Figure 33).

   

   Figure 32

   1. Idler pulley
   

   Figure 33

   1. Gearbox

3. Remove the old belt from around the spindle pulleys and idler pulley.

4. Route the new belt around the spindle pulleys and idler pulley assembly as shown in Figure 34.

   

   Figure 34

   1. Belt routing

5. Install the belt covers.

1. Remove the locknut, bolt, spring and spacer holding the deflector to the pivot brackets (Figure 35). Remove the damaged or worn grass deflector.

2. Place the spacer and spring onto grass deflector. Place the L-end of the spring behind the cutting unit edge.

   Note: Ensure that the L-end of the spring is installed behind the cutting unit edge before installing the bolt as shown in Figure 35.

3. Install the bolt and nut. Place the J-hook end of the spring around the grass deflector (Figure 35).

   Important: You must be able to lower the grass deflector into position. Lift the deflector up to test that it lowers into the full down position.

   

   Figure 35

   1. Bolt
   2. Spacer
   3. Locknut
   4. Spring
   5. Spring installed
   6. Grass deflector
   7. L-end of spring, place behind the cutting unit edge before installing bolt
   8. J-hook end of the spring

Remove the grass buildup under the cutting unit daily.

1. Disengage the PTO, release the traction pedal to the neutral position, and engage the parking brake.

2. Move the throttle lever to the SLOW position, shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operator’s position.

3. Raise the cutting unit to the TRANSPORT position.

4. Use a jack to raise the front of the machine and support it with jack stands.

5. Thoroughly clean the underside of the cutting unit with water.