Maintenance
Note: Determine the left and right sides of the machine from the normal operating position.
Important: If you must tilt the machine more than 25°, clamp off the vent hose on the top of the fuel tank(s) to prevent fuel from fouling the carbon canister.
Caution
If you leave the key in the switch, someone could accidently start the engine and seriously injure you or other bystanders.
Remove the key from the switch before you perform any maintenance.
Maintenance Safety
-
Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the auxiliary hydraulics, lower the attachment, engage the parking brake (if equipped), shut off the engine, and remove the key. Wait for all movement to stop and allow the machine to cool before adjusting, cleaning, storing, or repairing it.
-
Clean up oil or fuel spills.
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Do not allow untrained personnel to service the machine.
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Use jack stands to support the components when required.
-
Carefully release pressure from components with stored energy; refer to Relieving Hydraulic Pressure.
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Disconnect the battery before making any repairs; refer to Servicing the Battery.
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Keep your hands and feet away from the moving parts. If possible, do not make adjustments with the engine running.
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Keep all parts in good working condition and all hardware tightened. Replace all worn or damaged decals.
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Do not tamper with the safety devices.
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Use only Toro-approved attachments. Attachments can change the stability and the operating characteristics of the machine. You may void the warranty if you use the machine with unapproved attachments.
-
Use only genuine Toro replacement parts.
-
If any maintenance or repair requires the loader arms to be in the raised position, secure the arms in the raised position with the hydraulic-cylinder lock(s).
Recommended Maintenance Schedule(s)
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
After the first 8 hours |
|
After the first 50 hours |
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Before each use or daily |
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Every 25 hours |
|
Every 100 hours |
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Every 200 hours |
|
Every 250 hours |
|
Every 400 hours |
|
Every 500 hours |
|
Every 1,500 hours |
|
Yearly or before storage |
|
Important: Refer to your engine owner’s manual for additional maintenance procedures.
Note: After 50 hours and then every 100 hours thereafter (150, 250, 350, etc.), the hour meter displays CHG OIL to remind you to change the engine oil. After every 100 hours, the screen displays SVC to remind you to perform the other maintenance procedures based on a 100-, 200-, or 400-hour schedule. These reminders come on starting 3 hours prior to the service interval time and flash at regular intervals for 6 hours.
Pre-Maintenance Procedures
Using the Cylinder Lock
Warning
The loader arms may lower when in the raised position, crushing anyone under them.
Install the cylinder lock(s) before performing maintenance that requires raised loader arms.
Installing the Cylinder Lock
-
Remove the attachment.
-
Raise the loader arms to the fully raised position.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Remove the lynch pin securing the cylinder lock to the loader arm (Figure 22).
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Lower the cylinder lock over the cylinder rod and secure it with the lynch pin (Figure 22).
-
Slowly lower the loader arms until the cylinder lock contacts the cylinder body and rod end.
Removing and Storing the Cylinder Lock
Important: Remove the cylinder lock from the rod and fully secure it in the storage position before operating the machine.
-
Start the engine.
-
Raise the loader arms to the fully raised position.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Remove the lynch pin securing the cylinder lock.
-
Rotate the cylinder lock up to the loader arm and secure it with the lynch pin.
-
Lower the loader arms.
Accessing Internal Components
Warning
Opening or removing covers, hoods, and screens while the engine is running could allow you to contact moving parts, seriously injuring you.
Before opening any of the covers, hoods, and screens, shut off the engine, remove the key from the key switch, and allow the engine to cool.
Opening the Hood
Closing the Hood
-
Pull the prop rod out of the bracket on the hood and lower it into its holder.
-
Lower the hood and secure it by pushing down on the front of the hood until it locks in place.
-
Tighten the hood-locking screw to secure the latch (Figure 23).
Opening the Rear-Access Cover
Closing the Rear-Access Cover
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Move the rear-access cover in place over the back of the machine; ensure that the tabs line up in the slots.
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Push the access cover forward, lining up the hand-knob screws with the threaded holes in the machine.
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Screw the hand knobs tight to secure the rear-access cover in place.
Removing the Side Screens
-
Open the hood.
-
Slide the side screens (Figure 26) up and out of the slots in the front screen and frame.
Installing the Side Screens
Slide the side screens into place in the slots in the front screen and frame.
Removing the Front Screen
Caution
If the engine has been running, the heat shield will be very hot and could burn you.
Allow the machine to cool completely before touching the heat shield.
-
Open the hood and remove both side screens.
-
Loosen the bolts securing the weights (Figure 27).
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Remove the carriage bolts and nuts securing the sloped plate (Figure 27).
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Lift the sloped plate up and off the machine.
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Remove the 4 bolts securing the front screen to the frame (Figure 28).
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Remove the shoulder bolts and nuts securing the oil cooler to the top of the front screen (Figure 29).
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Remove the front screen.
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When finished, install the front screen with the 4 bolts removed previously.
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Install the oil cooler to the front screen with the 4 shoulder bolts and nuts removed previously.
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Slide the sloped plate between the frame and the weights; secure it to the front screen grill using the carriage bolts and nuts removed previously (Figure 27).
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Tighten the bolts securing the front weights (Figure 27).
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Install the side screens and close the hood.
Lubrication
Greasing the Machine
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Before each use or daily |
|
Grease Type: General-purpose grease
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Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake (if equipped), and lower the loader arms.
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Shut off the engine and remove the key.
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Clean the grease fittings with a rag.
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Connect a grease gun to each fitting (Figure 30 and Figure 31).
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Pump grease into the fittings until grease begins to ooze out of the bearings (approximately 3 pumps).
-
Wipe up any excess grease.
Engine Maintenance
Engine Safety
-
Shut off the engine before checking the oil or adding oil to the crankcase.
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Do not change the engine governor setting or overspeed the engine.
-
Keep your hands, feet, face, clothing, and other body parts away from the muffler and other hot surfaces.
Servicing the Air Cleaner
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Before each use or daily |
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Every 25 hours |
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Servicing the Air-Cleaner Cover and Body
Important: Replace the air-cleaner filter only when the service indicator shows red (Figure 32). Changing the air filter before it is necessary only increases the chance of dirt entering the engine when you remove the filter.
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Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake (if equipped), and lower the loader arms.
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Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Open the hood and secure the prop rod (if applicable).
-
Check the air-cleaner body for damage that could cause an air leak. Check the whole intake system for leaks, damage, or loose hose clamps.
Replace or repair any damaged components.
-
Release the latches on the air cleaner and pull the air-cleaner cover off the air-cleaner body (Figure 32).
Important: Do not remove the air filter.
-
Squeeze the dust cap sides to open it and knock the dust out.
-
Clean the inside of the air-cleaner cover with compressed air that is under 205 kPa (30 psi).
Important: Do not use compressed air on the air-cleaner body.
-
Check the service indicator.
-
If the service indicator is clear, install the air-cleaner cover with the dust cap oriented downward and secure the latches (Figure 32).
-
If the service indicator is red, replace the air filter as described in Replacing the Filter.
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Replacing the Filter
Important: To prevent engine damage, always operate the engine with the air filter and cover installed.
-
Gently slide the filter out of the air-cleaner body (Figure 32).
Note: Avoid knocking the filter into the side of the body.
Important: Do not attempt to clean the filter.
-
Inspect the new filter for tears, an oily film, or damage to the rubber seal. Look into the filter while shining a bright light on the outside of the filter; holes in the filter appear as bright spots.
If the filter is damaged, do not use it.
-
Carefully install the filter (Figure 32).
Note: Ensure that the filter is fully seated by pushing on the outer rim of the filter while installing it.
Important: Do not press on the soft inside area of the filter.
-
Install the air-cleaner cover with the dust cap oriented downward and secure the latches (Figure 32).
-
Close the hood.
Servicing the Carbon Canister
Replacing the Carbon-Canister Air Filter
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Every 200 hours |
|
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the loader arms.
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Shut off the engine and remove the key.
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Remove the rear-access cover.
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Remove and discard the carbon-canister air filter (Figure 33).
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Install a new filter onto the carbon canister (Figure 33).
-
Install the rear-access cover.
Replacing the Carbon-Canister Purge-Line Filter
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Every 200 hours |
|
Note: Check the purge-line filter occasionally for dirt. If the filter looks dirty, replace it.
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Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the loader arms.
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Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Remove the rear-access cover.
-
Move the spring-type hose clamps on both sides of the carbon-canister purge-line filter away from the filter (Figure 33).
-
Remove and discard the purge-line filter (Figure 33).
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Install a new filter into the hose with the arrow on the filter pointing away from the carbon canister and secure it with the hose clamps (Figure 33).
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Install the rear-access cover.
Servicing the Engine Oil
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
After the first 50 hours |
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Before each use or daily |
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Every 100 hours |
|
Every 200 hours |
|
Engine-Oil Specifications
Oil Type: Detergent oil (API service SG, SH, SJ, or higher)
Crankcase Capacity: with filter, 2.0 L (2.1 US qt)
Viscosity: See table below
Checking the Engine-Oil Level
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the loader arms.
-
Shut off the engine, remove the key, and allow the engine to cool.
-
Open the hood.
-
Clean the area around the oil dipstick (Figure 35).
-
Pull out the dipstick and wipe the metal end clean (Figure 35).
-
Slide the dipstick fully into the dipstick tube (Figure 35).
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Pull the dipstick out and look at the metal end.
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If the oil level is low, clean around the oil-fill cap and remove the cap (Figure 36).
-
Slowly pour only enough oil into the valve cover to raise the level to the F (Full) mark.
Important: Do not overfill the crankcase with oil to prevent damaging the engine.
-
Replace the fill cap and dipstick.
-
Close the hood.
Changing the Engine Oil
-
Start the engine and let it run for 5 minutes.
Note: This warms the oil so that it drains better.
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Park the machine so that the drain side is slightly lower than the opposite side to ensure that the oil drains completely.
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Lower the loader arms, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.
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Remove the drain plug (Figure 37).
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When the oil has drained completely, replace the plug.
Note: Dispose of the used oil at a certified recycling center.
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Remove the fill cap (Figure 36) and slowly pour approximately 80% of the specified amount of oil in through the valve cover.
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Check the oil level.
-
Slowly add additional oil to bring the level to the F (Full) mark on the dipstick.
-
Replace the fill cap.
Changing the Oil Filter
-
Drain the oil from the engine; refer to Changing the Engine Oil.
-
When the oil has drained completely, replace the plug.
Note: Dispose of the used oil at a certified recycling center.
-
Place a shallow pan or rag under the filter to catch oil.
-
Remove the old filter (Figure 38) and wipe the surface of the filter adapter gasket.
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Pour new oil of the proper type through the center hole of the filter. Stop pouring when the oil reaches the bottom of the threads.
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Allow 1 to 2 minutes for the oil to be absorbed by filter material, then pour off the excess oil.
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Apply a thin coat of new oil to the rubber gasket on the replacement filter.
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Install the replacement oil filter to the filter adapter. Turn the oil filter clockwise until the rubber gasket contacts the filter adapter, then tighten the filter an additional 1/2 turn.
-
Remove the fill cap (Figure 36) and slowly pour approximately 80% of the specified amount of oil in through the valve cover.
-
Check the oil level.
-
Slowly add additional oil to bring the level to the F (Full) mark on the dipstick.
-
Replace the fill cap.
Servicing the Spark Plug(s)
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Every 200 hours |
|
Every 500 hours |
|
Ensure that the air gap between the center and side electrodes is correct before installing each spark plug. Use a spark-plug wrench for removing and installing each spark plug and a gapping tool/feeler gauge to check and adjust the air gap. Install new spark plugs if necessary.
Type: Champion XC12YC or equivalent.
Air Gap: 0.75 mm (0.03 inch)
Removing the Spark Plug
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake (if equipped), and lower the loader arms.
-
Shut off the engine, remove the key, and allow the engine to cool.
-
Clean the area around the base of the plug(s) to keep dirt and debris out of the engine.
-
Remove the spark plug(s) as shown in Figure 39.
Checking the Spark Plug
Important: Do not clean the spark plug(s). Always replace the spark plug(s) when it has a black coating, worn electrodes, an oily film, or cracks.
If you see light brown or gray on the insulator, the engine is operating properly. A black coating on the insulator usually means the air cleaner is dirty.
Set the gap to 0.75 mm (0.03 inch).
Installing the Spark Plug
Fuel System Maintenance
Danger
In certain conditions, fuel is extremely flammable and highly explosive. A fire or explosion from fuel can burn you and others and can damage property.
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Drain fuel from the fuel tanks when the engine is cold. Do this outdoors in an open area. Wipe up any fuel that spills.
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Never smoke when draining fuel, and stay away from an open flame or where a spark may ignite the fumes.
-
Refer to Fuel Safety for a complete list of fuel related precautions.
Changing the Fuel Filter
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Every 200 hours |
|
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Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the loader arms.
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Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Open the hood and remove the left side screen.
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Loosen the tank cap to relieve pressure.
-
Clamp the fuel lines on both sides of the fuel filter (Figure 42).
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Squeeze the ends of the hose clamps together and slide them away from the filter (Figure 42).
-
Place a drain pan under the fuel lines to catch any leaks, then remove the filter from the fuel lines.
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Slide the fuel lines on the new fuel filter fittings, ensuring that the arrow on the filter points away from the fuel line coming from the fuel tank and toward the line going to the fuel pump.
Important: Never install a dirty filter.
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Move the hose clamps close to the filter.
-
Remove the clamp blocking fuel flow and open the fuel valves.
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Secure the tank cap.
-
Replace the side screen and close the hood.
Draining the Fuel Tank
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the loader arms.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Syphon the fuel from the tank using a pump-type syphon.
Note: Now is the best time to install a new fuel filter because the fuel tank is empty.
Electrical System Maintenance
Electrical System Safety
-
Disconnect the battery before repairing the machine. Disconnect the negative terminal first and the positive last. Connect the positive terminal first and the negative last.
-
Charge the battery in an open, well-ventilated area, away from sparks and flames. Unplug the charger before connecting or disconnecting the battery. Wear protective clothing and use insulated tools.
-
Battery acid is poisonous and can cause burns. Avoid contact with skin, eyes, and clothing. Protect your face, eyes, and clothing when working with a battery.
-
Battery gases can explode. Keep cigarettes, sparks, and flames away from the battery.
Servicing the Battery
Always keep the battery clean and fully charged. Use a paper towel to clean the battery case. If the battery terminals are corroded, clean them with a solution of 4 parts water and 1 part baking soda. Apply a light coating of grease to the battery terminals to reduce corrosion.
Specifications: 12 V, 585 A (cold cranking)
Removing the Battery
Warning
Battery terminals or metal tools could short against metal machine components, causing sparks. Sparks can cause the battery gasses to explode, resulting in personal injury.
-
When removing or installing the battery, do not allow the battery terminals to touch any metal parts of the machine.
-
Do not allow metal tools to short between the battery terminals and metal parts of the machine.
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake (if equipped), and lower the loader arms.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Open the hood.
-
Remove the wing nuts and bar securing the battery (Figure 43).
-
Disconnect the negative (black) ground cable from the battery post (Figure 43). Retain the fasteners.
-
Slide the rubber cover off the positive (red) cable.
-
Disconnect the positive (red) cable from the battery post (Figure 43). Retain the fasteners.
-
Gently push the hydraulic hoses aside and lift the battery out of the chassis.
Charging the Battery
Important: Always keep the battery fully charged (1.265 specific gravity). This is especially important to prevent battery damage when the temperature is below 0°C (32°F).
-
Remove the battery from the machine; refer to Removing the Battery.
-
Charge the battery for 10 to 15 minutes at 25 to 30 A or 30 minutes at 4 to 6 A (Figure 44). Do not overcharge the battery.
-
When the battery is fully charged, unplug the charger from the electrical outlet, then disconnect the charger leads from the battery posts (Figure 44).
Cleaning the Battery
Note: Keep the terminals and the entire battery case clean, because a dirty battery discharges slowly.
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake (if equipped), and lower the loader arms.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Remove the battery from the machine; Removing the Battery.
-
Wash the entire case with a solution of baking soda and water.
-
Rinse the battery with clear water.
-
Coat the battery posts and cable connectors with Grafo 112X (skin-over) grease (Toro Part No. 505-47) or petroleum jelly to prevent corrosion.
-
Install the battery; refer to Installing the Battery.
Installing the Battery
-
Using the fasteners previously removed, install the positive (red) battery cable to the positive (+) battery terminal (Figure 43).
-
Slide the red terminal boot onto the positive battery post.
-
Using the fasteners previously removed, install the negative (black) battery cable to the negative (-) battery terminal (Figure 43).
-
Secure the battery using the bar and wing nuts (Figure 43).
Important: Ensure that the battery cables do not contact any sharp edges or each other.
Servicing a Replacement Battery
The original battery is maintenance-free and does not require service. For servicing a replacement battery, refer to the battery manufacturer’s instructions.
Drive System Maintenance
Servicing the Tracks
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
After the first 50 hours |
|
Before each use or daily |
|
Every 100 hours |
|
Every 250 hours |
|
Cleaning the Tracks
-
Park the machine on a level surface and engage the parking brake.
-
With the bucket installed and pointing down, lower it into the ground so that the front of the traction unit lifts off the ground a few centimeters (inches).
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Using a water hose or pressure washer, remove dirt from each track system.
Important: Ensure that you use high-pressure water to wash only the track area. Do not use a high-pressure washer to clean the rest of the machine. Do not use high pressure water between the drive sprocket and the machine or you may damage the motor seals. High-pressure washing can damage the electrical system and hydraulic valves or deplete grease.
Important: Ensure that you fully clean the road wheels, the tension wheel, and the drive sprocket (Figure 45). The road wheels should rotate freely when clean.
Adjusting the Track Tension
There should be 7 cm (2-3/4 inches) between the tension nut and the back of the tension tube (Figure 46). If not, adjust the track tension using the following procedure:
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the loader arms.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Lift/support the side of the unit to be worked on so that the track is off the ground.
-
Remove the locking bolt and nut (Figure 47).
-
Using a 1/2-inch drive ratchet, turn the tensioning screw counterclockwise until the distance between the tension nut and the back of the tension tube (Figure 46) is 7 cm (2-3/4 inches).
-
Align the closest notch in the tension screw to the locking bolt hole and secure the screw with the locking bolt and nut (Figure 47).
-
Lower the traction unit to the ground.
Replacing the Tracks
Replacing Narrow-Width Tracks
When the tracks are badly worn, replace them.
Note: You have narrow-width tracks if the front tension wheels are mounted inside a fork on the end of the tension tube (Figure 48).
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the loader arms.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Lift/support the side of the unit to be worked on so that the track is 8 to 10 cm (3 to 4 inches) off the ground.
-
Remove the locking bolt and nut (Figure 47).
-
Using a 1/2-inch drive ratchet, release the drive tension by turning the tensioning screw clockwise (Figure 47 and Figure 48).
-
Push the tension wheel toward the rear of the unit to move the tension tube against the frame (Figure 48).
If it does not touch the frame, continue turning the tensioning screw until it does.
-
Begin removing the track at the top of the tension wheel, peeling it off the wheel while rotating the track forward.
-
When the track is off the tension wheel, remove it from the drive sprocket and road wheels (Figure 48).
-
Beginning at the drive sprocket, coil the new track around the sprocket, ensuring that the lugs on the track fit between the cogs on the sprocket (Figure 48).
-
Push the track under and between the road wheels (Figure 48).
-
Starting at the bottom of the tension wheel, install the track around the wheel by rotating the track rearward while pushing the lugs into the wheel.
-
Turn the tensioning screw counterclockwise until the distance between the tension nut and the back of the tension tube (Figure 46) is 7 cm (2-3/4 inches).
-
Align the closest notch in the tension screw to the locking bolt hole and secure the screw with the locking bolt and nut.
-
Lower the traction unit to the ground.
-
Repeat steps 3 through 14 to replace the other track.
Replacing Wide-Width Tracks
When the tracks are badly worn, replace them.
Note: You have wide-width tracks if the front tension wheels are mounted on the sides of the end of the tension tube (Figure 49).
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the loader arms.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Lift/support the side of the unit to be worked on so that the track is 8 to 10 cm (3 to 4 inches) off the ground.
-
Remove the locking bolt and nut (Figure 47).
-
Using a 1/2-inch drive ratchet, release the drive tension by turning the tensioning screw clockwise (Figure 47 and Figure 49).
-
Push the tension wheel toward the rear of the unit to move the tension tube against the frame (Figure 49).
If it does not touch the frame, continue turning the tensioning screw until it does.
-
Remove the nut securing the outer tension wheel and remove the wheel (Figure 49).
-
Remove the track (Figure 49).
-
Remove the nut securing the inner tension wheel and remove the wheel (Figure 49).
-
Pull the 4 large washers out of the 2 wheels, 1 on each side of each wheel.
-
Clean the old grease and dirt out of the area between where the washers were installed and the bearings inside the wheels, then fill this area on each side of each wheel with grease.
-
Install the large washers on the wheels over the grease.
-
Install the inner tension wheel and secure it with the nut removed previously (Figure 49).
-
Torque the nut to 407 N∙m (300 ft-lb).
-
Install the new track, ensuring that the lugs in the track fit between the cogs in the middle of the drive sprocket (Figure 49).
-
Install the outer tension wheel and secure it with the nut removed previously (Figure 49).
-
Torque the nut to 407 N∙m (300 ft-lb).
-
Turn the tensioning screw counterclockwise until the distance between the tension nut and the back of the tension tube (Figure 46) is 7 cm (2-3/4 inches).
-
Align the closest notch in the tension screw to the locking bolt hole and secure the screw with the locking bolt and nut.
-
Lower the traction unit to the ground.
-
Repeat steps 3 through 20 to replace the other track.
Maintaining the Road Wheels
-
Remove the tracks; refer to Replacing the Tracks.
-
Remove the 4 bolts securing each lower track guide which contains the road wheels, and remove them (Figure 50).
-
Remove the snap ring and cap from a road wheel (Figure 51).
-
Check the grease under the cap and around the gasket (Figure 51). If it is dirty, gritty, or depleted, clean out all of the grease, replace the gasket, and add new grease.
-
Ensure that the road wheel turns smoothly on the bearing. If it is frozen, replace the road wheel as described in the Road Wheel Kit Installation Instructions or contact your Authorized Service Dealer for repair.
-
Place the greased road wheel cap over the bolt head (Figure 48).
-
Secure the road wheel cap with the snap ring (Figure 48).
-
Repeat steps 3 through 7 for the other road wheels.
-
Install each track guide to the traction-unit frame using the fasteners you removed previously. Torque the bolts to 91 to 112 N∙m (67 to 83 ft-lb).
-
Install the tracks; refer to Replacing the Tracks.
Brake Maintenance
Testing the Parking Brake
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Before each use or daily |
|
-
Engage the parking-brake; refer to Parking-Brake Lever.
-
Start the engine.
-
Slowly attempt to drive the machine forward or rearward.
-
If the machine moves, contact your Authorized Service Dealer for service.
Belt Maintenance
Inspecting and Replacing the Drive Belt
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Every 25 hours |
|
Every 200 hours |
|
To replace the drive belt, complete the following procedure:
Note: To complete this procedure, you need a sturdy metal hook to disconnect the idler-pulley spring, such as the spring-removal tool (Toro Part No. 92-5771) available for order from your Authorized Service Dealer.
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the loader arms.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Open the hood.
-
Connect the hook on the spring-removal tool to the hook on the idler pulley spring, and disconnect the spring from the stud as shown in Figure 52.
-
Remove the idler pulley spring from the idler-pulley assembly (Figure 53).
-
Remove the belt from the 3 pulleys (Figure 54).
-
Install a new drive belt around the 3 pulleys (Figure 53).
-
Install the end of the idler pulley spring to the arm on the idler-pulley assembly.
Important: If you have removed the spring cover, ensure to install it over the spring at this time.
-
Using the spring-removal tool, pull the idler spring hook up and around the stud on the traction unit, pulling the idler pulley tight.
-
Remove the spring-removal tool from the spring and close the hood.
Controls System Maintenance
Adjusting the Controls
The factory adjusts the controls before shipping the machine. However, after many hours of use, you may need to adjust the traction control alignment, the NEUTRAL position of the traction control, and the tracking of the traction control in the full forward position.
Important: To adjust the controls properly, complete each procedure in the order listed.
Adjusting the Traction Control Alignment
If the traction control bar does not rest flush and square with the reference bar when in the full backward position, immediately complete the following procedure:
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the loader arms.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Pull straight back on the traction control so the front of the control contacts the reference bar (Figure 55).
-
If the front of the traction control does not rest square and flush with the reference bar, loosen the flange nut and bolt in the stem of the traction control (Figure 56).
-
Adjust the traction control so that it rests flush against the reference bar when you pull it straight back (Figure 56 and Figure 57).
-
Tighten the flange nut and bolt in the traction control stem.
Adjusting the Traction Control Neutral Position
If the machine creeps forward or backward when the traction control is in the NEUTRAL position and the unit is warm, immediately complete the following procedure:
-
Lift/support the machine so that both tracks are off the ground.
-
Open the rear-access cover.
-
Loosen the jam nuts on the traction rods, under the control panel (Figure 58).
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Start the traction unit and set the throttle to about 1/3 open position.
Warning
When the machine is running, you could be caught and injured in moving parts or burned on hot surfaces.
Stay away from pinch points, moving parts, and hot surfaces when adjusting the running machine.
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If the left track moves, lengthen or shorten the right traction rod until the track stops moving.
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If the right track moves, lengthen or shorten the left traction rod until the track stops moving.
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Tighten the jam nuts.
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Close the rear-access cover.
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Shut off the engine and lower the machine to the ground.
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Drive the machine in full reverse, checking to see if the unit tracks straight. If it does not, note the direction it veers. Repeat the adjustment previously described so that it tracks straight in reverse.
Adjusting the Tracking of the Traction Control, Full Forward Position
If the machine does not drive straight when you hold the traction control against the reference bar, complete the following procedure:
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Drive the machine with the traction control against the reference bar, noting which direction the traction unit veers.
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Release the traction control.
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If the traction unit veers to the left, loosen the right jam nut and adjust the tracking set screw on the front of the traction control (Figure 59).
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If the traction unit veers to the right, loosen the left jam nut and adjust the tracking set screw on the front of the traction control (Figure 59).
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Repeat steps 1 through 4 until the machine drives straight in the full forward position.
Important: Ensure that the tracking set screws touch the stops in the full forward position to avoid over stroking the hydraulic pumps.
Hydraulic System Maintenance
Hydraulic System Safety
-
Seek immediate medical attention if fluid is injected into skin. Injected fluid must be surgically removed within a few hours by a doctor.
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Ensure that all hydraulic-fluid hoses and lines are in good condition and all hydraulic connections and fittings are tight before applying pressure to the hydraulic system.
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Keep your body and hands away from pinhole leaks or nozzles that eject high-pressure hydraulic fluid.
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Use cardboard or paper to find hydraulic leaks.
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Safely relieve all pressure in the hydraulic system before performing any work on the hydraulic system.
Relieving Hydraulic Pressure
To relieve hydraulic pressure while the engine is on, disengage the auxiliary hydraulics and fully lower the loader arms.
To relieve the pressure while the engine is off, move the auxiliary-hydraulics lever between the forward and reverse flow positions to relieve auxiliary hydraulic pressure, and cycle the loader-arm/attachment-tilt lever between the forward positions to lower the loader arms (Figure 60).
Hydraulic-Fluid Specifications
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Every 100 hours |
|
Every 1,500 hours |
|
Hydraulic Tank Capacity: 45.4 L (12 US gallons)
Use only 1 of the following fluids in the hydraulic system:
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Toro Premium Transmission/Hydraulic Tractor Fluid (refer to your Authorized Toro Dealer for more information)
-
Toro PX Extended Life Hydraulic Fluid (refer to your Authorized Toro Dealer for more information)
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If either of the above Toro fluids are not available, you may use another Universal Tractor Hydraulic Fluid (UTHF), but they must be only conventional, petroleum-based products. The specifications must fall within the listed range for all the following material properties and the fluid should meet the listed industry standards. Check with your hydraulic fluid supplier to determine if the fluid meets these specifications.
Note: Toro does not assume responsibility for damage caused by improper substitutions, so use only products from reputable manufacturers who will stand behind their recommendations.
Material Properties Viscosity, ASTM D445 cSt at 40°C: 55 to 62 cSt at 100°C: 9.1 to 9.8 Viscosity index, ASTM D2270 140 to 152 Pour Point, ASTM D97 -37 to -43°C (-35 to -46°F) Industry Standards API GL-4, AGCO Powerfluid 821 XL, Ford New Holland FNHA-2-C-201.00, Kubota UDT, John Deere J20C, Vickers 35VQ25 and Volvo WB-101/BM Note: Many hydraulic fluids are almost colorless, making it difficult to spot leaks. A red dye additive for the hydraulic system fluid is available in 20 ml (2/3 fl oz) bottles. One bottle is sufficient for 15 to 22 L (4 to 6 US gallons) of hydraulic fluid. Order Part No. 44-2500 from your Authorized Service Dealer.
Checking the Hydraulic-Fluid Level
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Every 25 hours |
|
Check the hydraulic-fluid level before the engine is first started and after every 25 operating hours.
Refer to Hydraulic-Fluid Specifications for hydraulic-fluid specifications.
Important: Always use the correct hydraulic fluid. Unspecified fluids will damage the hydraulic system.
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Remove any attachments.
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Park the machine on a level surface, lower the loader arms, and fully retract the tilt cylinder.
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Shut off the engine, remove the key, and allow the engine to cool.
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Open the hood and remove the left side screen.
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Clean the area around the filler neck of the hydraulic tank (Figure 61).
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Remove the filler-neck cap and check the fluid level on the dipstick (Figure 61).
The fluid level should be between the marks on the dipstick.
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If the level is low, add enough fluid to raise it to the proper level.
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Install the filler-neck cap.
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Replace the left side screen and close the hood.
Replacing the Hydraulic Filter
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
After the first 8 hours |
|
Every 200 hours |
|
Important: Do not substitute an automotive oil filter; otherwise, severe hydraulic system damage may result.
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Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the loader arms.
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Shut off the engine and remove the key.
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Open the rear access cover.
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Place a drain pan under the filter (Figure 62).
-
Remove the old filter (Figure 62) and wipe the surface of the filter adapter gasket clean.
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Apply a thin coat hydraulic fluid to the rubber gasket on the replacement filter.
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Install the replacement hydraulic filter onto the filter adapter (Figure 62). Tighten it clockwise until the rubber gasket contacts the filter adapter, then tighten the filter an additional 3/4 turn.
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Clean up any spilled fluid.
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Start the engine and let it run for about 2 minutes to purge air from the system.
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Shut off the engine, remove the key, and check for leaks.
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Check the fluid level in the hydraulic tank and add fluid to raise the level to the mark on dipstick; refer toHydraulic-Fluid Specifications.
Important: Do not overfill the tank.
-
Close the rear-access cover.
Changing the Hydraulic Fluid
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Every 400 hours |
|
-
Park the machine on a level surface, remove any attachment, and engage the parking brake.
-
Raise the loader arms and install the cylinder lock.
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Shut off the engine, remove the key, and allow the engine to cool.
-
Open the hood and remove the left side screen.
-
Remove the hydraulic-tank cap and dipstick (Figure 63).
-
Place a large drain pain capable of holding 57 L (15 US gallons) under the drain plug on the front of the machine (Figure 64).
Note: The drain plug is located behind the front weights, under the sloped plate.
-
Remove the drain plug and allow the oil to drain into the pan (Figure 64).
-
When finished, install and tighten the drain plug.
Note: Dispose of the used oil at a certified recycling center.
-
Fill the hydraulic tank with hydraulic fluid as specified in Hydraulic-Fluid Specifications.
-
Start the engine and let it run for a few minutes.
-
Shut off the engine.
-
Check the hydraulic-fluid level and add fluid to fill the tank if necessary; refer to Checking the Hydraulic-Fluid Level.
-
Install the side screen and close the hood.
Cleaning
Removing Debris
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Before each use or daily |
|
Important: Operating the engine with blocked screens and/or cooling shrouds removed will result in engine damage from overheating.
-
Park the machine on a level surface and lower the loader arms.
-
Shut off the engine, remove the key, and allow the engine to cool.
-
Open the hood and secure the prop rod.
-
Clean any debris from the front and side screens.
-
Wipe away debris from the air cleaner.
-
Clean any debris buildup on the engine and in the oil cooler fins with a brush or blower.
Important: Operating the engine with blocked screens and/or cooling shrouds removed will result in engine damage due to overheating.
-
Clean debris from the hood opening, muffler, heat shields, and radiator screen (if applicable).
-
Close the hood.
Cleaning the Chassis
Maintenance Service Interval | Maintenance Procedure |
---|---|
Every 100 hours |
|
Using a flashlight, open the hood and inspect the area under the engine regularly. When the debris is 2.5 to 5 cm (1 to 2 inches) deep, complete the following procedure (refer to Figure 65 throughout this procedure):
-
Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and lower the loader arms.
-
Lift and support the front of the machine.
-
Shut off the engine and remove the key.
-
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
-
Remove the bolts, washers, and lock washers securing the 2 side weights, removing the weights (Figure 65).
-
Open the rear-access cover.
-
Remove the 2 carriage bolts and washers from the battery base.
-
Remove the 6 nuts and bolts securing the rear panel; remove the panel (Figure 65).
-
Place a clamp on the fuel line, 2 inches from where it comes out of the fuel tank.
-
Slide the fuel tank to the rear (Figure 65).
-
Disconnect the fuel line from the fitting on the fuel tank.
-
Disconnect the 2 wires leading to the right side of the tank (Figure 66).
-
Disconnect the vent hose from the fitting on top of the tank. Plug the fitting so that no fuel can leak out during the procedure.
-
Carefully remove the tank and set it upright to keep from spilling the fuel.
Danger
In certain conditions, fuel is extremely flammable and highly explosive. A fire or explosion from fuel can burn you and others and can damage property.
Refer to Fuel Safety for a complete list of fuel related precautions.
-
Remove any large deposits of debris.
-
Wash out the chassis with water until the water running out the back of the unit is clear.
Important: Take care not to get water into the engine or electrical components.
-
Slide the fuel tank part way into the chassis (Figure 65).
-
Remove the plug from the vent fitting and connect the vent hose to it.
-
Connect the fuel line and remove the clamp.
-
Secure the tank cap and tighten it until it clicks.
-
On the right side of the tank, connect the orange wire to the center post and the black wire to the outside post (Figure 66).
-
Slide the tank all the way into the machine.
Important: The fuel line and wires must be away from the engine pulleys and the frame.
-
Replace the rear panel and secure it with the 6 bolts and nuts removed previously (Figure 65).
-
Secure the battery tray with the bolts and washers removed previously.
-
Install the side weights with the bolts, washers, and lock washers removed previously (Figure 65).
-
Close the rear-access cover.
-
Lower the machine to the ground.