Greensmaster® 1000 Mower

1. Remove the bolts (5/16 inch), locknuts, ring pins, and hairpin cotters that secure the bottom of the handle arms to each side of the machine (Figure 3).

   

   Figure 3

   1. Hairpin cotter
   2. Mounting pin
   3. Washer
   4. Lock washer
   5. Bolt (3/8 inch)
   6. Locknut
   7. Bolt (5/16 inch)
   8. Ring pin
   9. Handle arm

2. Remove the bolts (3/8 inch), washers, and lock washers from the mounting pins on each side of the machine (Figure 3).

3. Insert the handle ends through the holes in the handle arms and align the holes with the mounting pins (Figure 3).

4. Squeeze the handle ends inward and install them on the mounting pins (Figure 4).

   

   Figure 4

   1. Handle
   2. Handle arm
   3. Mounting pin
   4. Washer
   5. Lock washer
   6. Bolt (3/8 inch)

5. Secure the handle to the mounting pins with the bolts (3/8 inch), washers, and lock washers that you previously removed (Figure 4).

6. Use the bolts (5/16 inch), locknuts, hairpin cotters, and ring pins that you previously removed to secure the handle arms to the rear of the frame (Figure 3).

7. Secure the cables and wire harness to the handle with the cable ties (Figure 5).

   

   Figure 5

   1. Cable ties

Refer to Figure 6 for this procedure.

Figure 6

1. Handle
2. Hairpin cotter
3. Ring pin

1. Remove the hairpin cotters from the ring pins on each side of the machine.

2. While supporting the handle, remove the ring pins from each side and raise or lower the handle to the desired operating position.

3. Install the ring pins and hairpin cotters.

Perform the daily maintenance procedures; refer to Daily Maintenance Checklist.

Check the engine-oil level before each use or every 8 operating hours, refer to Checking the Engine-Oil Level.

Fuel tank capacity: 2.0 L (0.59 US gallons)

Recommended fuel: Unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 87 or higher ((R+M)/2 rating method)

Ethanol: Gasoline with up to 10% ethanol (gasohol) or 15% MTBE (methyl tertiary butyl ether) by volume is acceptable. Ethanol and MTBE are not the same. Gasoline with 15% ethanol (E15) by volume is not approved for use.

• Never use gasoline that contains more than 10% ethanol by volume, such as E15 (contains 15% ethanol), E20 (contains 20% ethanol), or E85 (contains up to 85% ethanol).

• Do not use gasoline containing methanol.

• Do not store fuel either in the fuel tank or fuel containers over the winter unless a fuel stabilizer is used.

• Do not add oil to gasoline.

• For best results, use only clean, fresh (less than 30 days old) fuel.

• Using unapproved gasoline may cause performance problems and/or engine damage, which may not be covered under the warranty.

1. Clean around the fuel-tank cap and remove the cap from the tank (Figure 17). Fill the fuel tank to the bottom of the fill-neck opening.

   Important: Do not overfill the tank with fuel.

   

   Figure 17

   1. Fuel-tank cap

2. Install the fuel-tank cap and wipe up any spilled fuel.

Use the following tables to set the machine to match turf conditions.

Bedbars: Standard and Optional

Bedknives: Standard and Optional

Rollers: Standard and Optional

Clip

1. Push the kickstand down with your foot and pull up and back on the handle to raise the wheels off the ground.

2. Place the traction lever into the ENGAGE position and the engine controls in the starting position.

3. Attempt to start the engine.

   The engine should not start. If the engine starts, the interlock switch needs service. Correct the problem before operating the machine. Refer to Servicing the Traction-Interlock Switch

4. Carefully lift up on the handle to release the kickstand.

1. Return the traction control lever to the NEUTRAL position, the throttle to the SLOW position, and shut off the engine.

2. Push the kickstand down with your foot and pull up on the handle support until the kickstand has rotated forward, over center.

3. Remove the transport wheels by pushing the wheel locking clips out of the hex-shaft grooves.

4. Carefully lower the machine off of the kickstand by pushing forward slowly or by lifting the lower handle support, allowing the kickstand to spring back to the STORAGE position.

Use the choke lever to aid in starting a cold engine. Move the lever to the CHOKE position when starting a cold engine. After the engine starts, move the lever to the RUN position.

Figure 18

1. Choke lever—CHOKE position
2. Choke lever—RUN position

Control fuel flow to the engine with the fuel-shutoff valve as follows:

• To open the fuel valve, turn the fuel-shutoff lever toward the recoil starter handle (Figure 19).

• To shut the fuel valve, turn the fuel-shutoff lever away from the recoil starter handle (Figure 19).

  

  Figure 19

  1. Fuel-shutoff lever—CLOSED position
  2. Fuel-shutoff lever—OPEN position

Note: For illustrations and descriptions of the controls referenced in this section, refer to Controls.

Note: Ensure that the spark-plug wire is installed on the spark plug.

1. Ensure that the traction and reel drive levers are in the DISENGAGED position.

   Note: The engine will not start if the traction lever is in the ENGAGED position.

2. Ensure that the fuel-shutoff valve is open.

3. Move the On/Off switch to the ON position.

4. Move the throttle control to the FAST position.

5. Move the choke lever halfway between the CHOKE and RUN positions when starting a cold engine.

   Note: The choke may not be required when starting a warm engine.

6. Pull the recoil-start handle out until positive engagement results, then pull it vigorously to start the engine.

   Important: Do not pull the recoil rope to its limit or let go of the starter handle when the rope is pulled out; the rope may break or the recoil assembly may be damaged.

7. Move the choke lever to the RUN position as the engine warms up.

1. Move the traction and reel drive controls to the DISENGAGED position.

2. Move the throttle control to the SLOW position.

3. Move the On/Off switch to the OFF position.

4. Close the fuel-shutoff valve before you store or transport the machine

Important: Grass clippings act as a lubricant when mowing. Operating the cutting unit excessively without grass clippings can damage the cutting unit.

• Mow the greens in a straight back-and-forth direction across the green.

• Avoid circular mowing or turning the machine on the greens areas to prevent scuffing.

• Turn the machine off the green by raising the cutting reel (pushing the handle down) and turning on the traction drum.

• Mow at a normal walking pace. Fast speeds saves little time and results in an inferior mowing job.

• To assist in maintaining a straight line across the green and to keep the machine an equal distance from the edge of the previous cut, use the alignment stripes on the basket (Figure 20).

  

  Figure 20

  1. Alignment stripes

After mowing, transport the machine away from the job site; refer to Transporting the Machine Using Transport Wheels or Transporting the Machine Using a Trailer.

Perform the following before servicing, cleaning, or making any adjustments to the machine.

1. Park the machine on a level surface.

2. Shut off the engine and remove the key from the machine (if equipped).

3. Engage the parking brake.

4. Wait for all moving parts to stop allow the engine to cool before servicing, storing, or making repairs.

5. Disconnect the spark-plug wire (Figure 21).

   

   Figure 21

   1. Spark-plug wire

Lubricate the 12 grease fittings on the mower using No. 2 lithium grease. For best results, use a hand-operated grease gun.

The grease fitting locations are as follows:

• 2 on the front roller (Figure 22)

• 2 on the reel bearings (Figure 22)

• 2 on the drum axles (Figure 23)

• 3 on the differential (Figure 23)

• 2 on the reel countershaft bearings (Figure 24)

• 1 on the belt idler pivots (Figure 25).

1. Wipe each grease fitting with a clean rag.

2. Pump grease into each fitting.

   Important: Do not apply too much pressure or the grease seals may become permanently damaged.

3. Wipe off any excess grease.

Figure 22

Figure 23

Figure 24

Figure 25

Fill the crankcase with approximately 0.56 L (19 fl oz) of the proper viscosity oil before starting. The engine uses a high-quality oil that has the American Petroleum Institute (API) service classification of SJ or higher. Select the proper oil viscosity (weight) based on the ambient temperature. Figure 26 illustrates the temperature/viscosity recommendations.

Figure 26

Note: Multi-grade oils (5W-20, 10W-30 and 10W-40) increase oil consumption. Check the engine-oil level more frequently when you use these oils.

Important: Do not operate the engine without the air filter assembly; extreme engine damage will occur.

1. Shut off the engine and wait for all moving parts to stop; refer to Preparing the Machine for Maintenance.

2. Remove the wingnut securing the air-cleaner cover (Figure 29).

3. Remove the air-cleaner cover.

   Note: Ensure that no dirt or debris from the air-cleaner cover fall into the base.

4. Remove the foam and paper elements from the base.

5. Remove the foam element from the paper element.

6. Inspect the foam and paper elements; replace them if they are damaged or excessively dirty.

   

   Figure 29

   1. Wing nut
   2. Air-cleaner cover
   3. Foam element
   4. Paper filter element
   5. Gasket and air duct

7. Clean the paper element by tapping it gently to remove the dirt.

   Note: Do not try to brush dirt off the paper element; brushing forces the dirt into the fibers. Replace the element if tapping it fails to remove the dirt.

8. Clean the foam element in warm, soapy water or in a nonflammable solvent.

   Note: Do not use gasoline to clean the foam element because it could create a risk of fire or explosion.

9. Rinse and dry the foam element thoroughly.

10. Wipe dirt from the base and the cover with a moist rag.

    Note: Ensure that dirt and debris do not enter the air duct leading to the carburetor.

11. Install the air-cleaner elements and ensure that they are properly positioned. Install the lower wing nut.

12. Install the cover and install the upper wing nut to secure it.

Use an NGK BPR6ES spark plug or equivalent.

1. Shut off the engine and wait for all moving parts to stop; refer to Preparing the Machine for Maintenance.

2. Clean around the spark plug.

3. Remove the spark plug from the cylinder head.

   Important: Replace a cracked, fouled, or dirty spark plug. Do not sand blast, scrape, or clean the electrodes because engine damage could result from grit entering the cylinder.

4. Set the gap on the plug to 0.7 to 0.8 mm (0.028 to 0.031 inch)

   

   Figure 30

   1. Center-electrode insulator
   2. Side electrode
   3. Air gap

5. Carefully install the spark plug by hand (to avoid cross threading) until it is hand tight.

6. Tighten the spark plug an additional 1/2 turn if it is new; otherwise, tighten it an additional 1/8 to 1/4 turn.

   Important: A loose spark plug can become very hot and can damage the engine; overtightening a spark plug may damage the threads in the cylinder head.

7. Connect the wire to the spark plug.

Use the following procedure if the traction-interlock switch needs adjustment or replacement.

1. Ensure that the engine is off and the traction lever is disengaged and resting against the neutral stop (Figure 31).

   

   Figure 31

   1. Traction lever
   2. Neutral stop
   3. Interlock switch
   4. 0.8 mm (0.032 inch) gap

2. Loosen the interlock switch mounting fasteners (Figure 31).

3. Place a 0.8 mm (0.032 inch) thick shim between the traction lever and the interlock switch (Figure 31).

4. Tighten the interlock switch mounting fasteners and check the gap again.

   Note: The traction lever must not contact the switch.

5. Engage the traction lever and verify that the switch loses continuity.

   Note: Replace the switch if necessary.

If the service/parking brake slips during operation, adjust it.

1. Engage the service brake, push in the parking brake knob, and allow the service brake to rest on the parking-brake pin (Figure 32).

   

   Figure 32

2. Using a spring scale, press rearward on the service-brake lever (Figure 33). The parking brake should release when a force of 13.5 to 18 kg (30 to 40 lb) is attained. If the parking brake releases before 13.5 to 18 kg (30 to 40 lb) of force is attained, adjust the brake cable.

   

   Figure 33

   1. Rear pressure on the service-brake lever

3. Loosen the retainer that secures the V-belt cover and pivot the cover open (Figure 34).

   

   Figure 34

   1. V–belt cover
   2. Retainer

4. To adjust the brake cable tension, proceed as follows.

   • To decrease the cable tension, loosen the front cable jam nut and tighten the rear jam nut (Figure 35). Repeat steps 1 and 2 and adjust the tension if necessary.

   • To increase the cable tension, tighten the front cable jam nut and loosen the rear jam nut (Figure 35). Repeat steps 1 and 2 and adjust the tension if necessary.

     Note: You can adjust the cable at the jam nut brackets by the control panel or at the bracket at the base of the engine.

   

   Figure 35

   1. Service/parking brake cable
   2. Front jam nut

5. Close the cover and secure the retainer.

Ensure that the belts are properly tensioned to ensure proper operation of the machine and prevent unnecessary wear. Check the belts frequently.

1. Remove the bolts that secure the traction drive and reel-drive belt covers to the right side plate and remove the belt covers.

2. Loosen the idler pulley mounting nut on each idler pulley and pivot each idler pulley counterclockwise away from the backside of each belt to release the belt tension.

3. Remove the belts.

4. Remove the bolts that secure the front and rear sections of the differential cover to the differential housing and slide the cover sections away to expose the belt (Figure 43).

   

   Figure 43

   1. Differential cover sections
   2. Front clutch housing
   3. Right rear bearing housing

5. Loosen the idler pulley mounting nut on the differential idler pulley and pivot the idler pulley counterclockwise away from the backside of the belt to release the belt tension.

6. Remove the 2 bolts and 2 locknuts that secure the front clutch housing to the side plate (Figure 43).

7. Rotate the housing 180° so that the bottom of the housing points upward.

8. Remove the 2 bolts and 2 locknuts that secure the right rear bearing housing to the side plate (Figure 43).

9. Rotate the housing 180° so that the bottom of the housing points upward.

10. Remove the old belt.

11. Slide the new belt over the rotated housing covers, the differential cover sections, and onto the differential pulleys.

12. Ensure that the idler pulley is positioned against the backside of the belt.

13. Rotate both housings back into the upright position and secure them to the side plate with the bolts and nuts that you previously removed.

14. Adjust the differential belt tension; refer to Adjusting the Differential Belt.

15. Adjust the belt tension on the traction drive and reel-drive belts; refer to Adjusting the Traction-Drive Belt, and Adjusting the Reel-Drive Belt.

16. Install the differential, traction drive, and reel-drive covers.

Follow these steps to remove slack from the traction control:

1. Move the traction control to the DISENGAGED position.

2. Loosen the retainer that secures the V-belt cover and pivot the cover open (Figure 41).

3. To remove slack from the traction control, loosen the front-cable jam nut and tighten the back-cable jam nut (Figure 44) until all slack is removed.

   

   Figure 44

   1. Traction cable
   2. Front-cable jam nut
   3. Back-cable jam nut

4. Tighten the front-cable jam nut.

5. Close the cover and secure the retainer.

6. Check the traction-control operation.

1. Park the machine on a flat, level surface, preferably a precision steel work plate.

2. Place a 0.6 x 2.5 cm (1/4 x 1 inch) flat steel strip, approximately 73.6 cm (29 inches) long, under the reel blades and against the front edge of the bedknife to prevent the bedbar from resting on the work surface.

3. Raise the front roller so that only the rear drum and the reel are on the surface.

4. Firmly press down on the machine above the reel so that all reel blades contact the steel strip.

5. While pressing down on the reel, slide a feeler gauge under one end of the drum, then check the other end of the drum.

   Note: If there is a gap between the drum and the work surface, greater than 0.25 mm (0.010 inch), on either end, adjust the drum (proceed to step 6). If the gap is less than 0.25 mm (0.010 inch), no adjustment is required.

6. Remove the rear belt cover from the right side of the machine (Figure 45).

   

   Figure 45

   1. Traction-drive belt cover

7. Rotate the driven pulley until the holes align with the 4 roller bearing flange screws (Figure 46).

   

   Figure 46

   1. Driven pulley
   2. 4 holes
   3. Idler pulley

8. Loosen the 4 roller bearing screws and the screw that secures the idler pulley.

9. Raise or lower the right side of the roller assembly until the gap is less than 0.25 mm (0.010 inch).

10. Tighten the roller bearing screws.

11. Adjust the belt tension and tighten the idler pulley mounting screw (Figure 46).

Adjust the bedknife to the reel after grinding, backlapping, or disassembling the cutting unit. This procedure is not intended as a daily adjustment.

1. Park the machine on a flat, level work surface.

2. Tilt the machine back on the handle to expose the bedknife and the reel.

   Important: Do not tip the machine at an angle greater than 25°. Tipping the machine beyond 25° leads to oil leaking into the combustion chamber and/or fuel leaking out of the fuel-tank cap.

3. Rotate the reel so that a blade crosses the bedknife edge between the first and second bedknife screw heads on the right side of the cutting unit (Figure 47).

   

   Figure 47

   1. Bedbar-adjusting screw

4. Rotate the reel so that a blade crosses the bedknife edge between the first and second bedknife screw heads on the right side of the cutting unit.

5. Insert the 0.05 mm (0.002 inch) shim between the marked blade and the bedknife edge at the point where the marked blade crosses the bedknife edge.

6. Turn the right bedbar-adjusting screw until you feel light pressure (i.e., drag) on the shim by sliding it side-to-side (Figure 47).

7. Remove the shim.

8. For the left side of the cutting unit, slowly rotate the reel so that the closest blade crosses the bedknife edge between the first and second screw heads.

9. Repeat steps 4 through 7 for the left side of the cutting unit and left bedbar-adjusting screw.

10. Repeat steps 5 through 7 until light drag is achieved on both the right and left sides of the cutting unit utilizing the same contact points.

11. To obtain light contact between the reel and bedknife, turn each bedbar-adjusting screw clockwise 3 clicks.

    Note: Each click turned on the bedbar-adjusting screw moves the bedknife 0.018 mm (0.0007 inch). Clockwise rotation moves the bedknife edge closer to the reel and counterclockwise rotation move the bedknife edge away from the reel.

12. Test the cutting performance by inserting a long strip of cutting performance paper between the reel and bedknife, perpendicular to the bedknife (Figure 48). Slowly rotate the reel forward; it should cut the paper.

    

    Figure 48

    Note: If you see excessive contact/reel drag, it will be necessary to backlap, face the front of the bedknife, or grind the cutting unit to achieve the sharp edges that are necessary for precise cutting.

1. Verify that the rear roller is level and that the bedknife-to-reel contact is correct. Tip the machine back on the handle to expose the front and rear rollers and the bedknife.

   Important: Do not tip the machine at an angle greater than 25°. Tipping the machine beyond 25 ° leads to oil leaking into the combustion chamber and/or fuel leaking out of the fuel-tank cap.

2. Loosen the locknuts that secure the height-of-cut arms to the height-of-cut brackets (Figure 49).

   

   Figure 49

   1. Height-of-cut arm
   2. Height-of-cut bracket
   3. Locknut
   4. Adjusting screw

3. Loosen the nut on the gauge bar (Figure 50) and set the adjusting screw to the desired height-of-cut. The distance between the bottom of the screw head and the face of the bar is the height of cut.

   

   Figure 50

   1. Gauge bar
   2. Height-adjusting screw
   3. Nut

4. Hook the screw head on the cutting edge of the bedknife and rest the rear end of the bar on the rear roller (Figure 51).

   

   Figure 51

5. Rotate the adjusting screw until the roller contacts the front of the gauge bar.

6. Adjust both ends of the roller until the entire roller is parallel to the bedknife.

   Important: When set properly, the rear and front rollers contact the gauge bar and the screw is snug against the bedknife. This ensures that the height-of-cut is identical at both ends of the bedknife.

7. Tighten the nuts to lock the adjustment.

   Important: To avoid scalping on undulating turf, ensure that the roller supports are positioned rearward (the roller closer to the reel).

   Note: The front roller can be put in 3 different positions (Figure 52), depending on the application and needs of the user.

   • Use the front position when a groomer is installed.

   • Use the middle position without a groomer.

   • Use the third position in extremely undulating turf conditions.

   

   Figure 52

Adjust the shield to ensure proper grass clipping discharge into the basket.

1. Measure the distance from the top of the front support rod to the front lip of the shield at each end of the cutting unit (Figure 53).

   

   Figure 53

   1. Support rod
   2. Shield

2. The height of the shield from the support rod for normal cutting conditions should be 10 cm (4 inches). Loosen the bolts and nuts that secure each end of the shield to the side plate and adjust the shield to the correct height.

3. Tighten the fasteners.

   Note: You can lower the shield for dry turf conditions (clippings fly over the top of the basket) or raise it to allow for heavy, wet grass conditions (clippings build up on the rear of the basket).

Adjust the cut-off bar to ensure that the clippings are cleanly discharged from the reel area.

1. Loosen the screws that secure the top bar (Figure 54) to the cutting unit.

   

   Figure 54

   1. Cut-off bar

2. Insert a 1.5 mm (0.060 inch) feeler gauge between the top of the reel and the bar and tighten the screws.

3. Ensure that the bar and reel are equal distances apart across the entire reel.

   Note: The bar is adjustable to compensate for changes in turf conditions. Adjust the bar closer to the reel when the turf is extremely wet. By contrast, adjust the bar further away from the reel when turf conditions are dry. The bar should be parallel to the reel to ensure optimum performance. Adjust the bar when you adjust the shield height or when you sharpen the reel on a reel grinder.

To determine if the bedbar is standard or aggressive, check the left bedbar mounting ears. If the mounting ears are rounded, it is a standard bedbar. If the mounting ears have a notch in them, it is an aggressive bedbar (Figure 55).

Figure 55

1. Standard bedbar
2. Aggressive bedbar

1. Remove the plug in the right reel-drive cover (Figure 58).

   

   Figure 58

   1. Cover plug

2. Insert a 1/2 inch-drive extension bar, connected to the backlapping machine, into the square hole in the center of the reel pulley.

3. Backlap according to the procedure in the Toro Sharpening Reel and Rotary Mowers Manual, Form 80-300 PT.

   Danger

   Contact with the reel or other moving parts can result in personal injury.

   • Stay away from the reel while backlapping.

   • Do not use a short-handled paint brush for backlapping. Part No. 29-9100 Handle assembly, complete or as individual parts, are available from your local authorized Toro distributor.

   Note: For a better cutting edge, run a file across the front face of the bedknife when the lapping operation is completed. This removes any burrs or rough edges that may have built up on the cutting edge.

4. Install the plug in the cover when you complete this procedure.