5 To 7 Conversion Kit

1. Park the reel frame on a level surface and lower the cutting units to the ground.

2. Engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop.

3. Chock the wheels of the reel frame to ensure that the machine does not move.

Hydraulic System Safety

• Seek immediate medical attention if fluid is injected into skin. Injected fluid must be surgically removed within a few hours by a doctor.

• Ensure that all hydraulic-fluid hoses and lines are in good condition and all hydraulic connections and fittings are tight before applying pressure to the hydraulic system.

• Keep your body and hands away from pinhole leaks or nozzles that eject high-pressure hydraulic fluid.

• Use cardboard or paper to find hydraulic leaks.

• Safely relieve all pressure in the hydraulic system before performing any work on the hydraulic system.

1. At the transport frame control console, move the 3 control levers up and down to relieve hydraulic pressure between the transport frame and the tow vehicle (Figure 2).

   

   Figure 2

2. Disconnect the 2 hydraulic hoses from the tow vehicle (Figure 3).

   

   Figure 3

   1. Hydraulic hoses
   2. Hydraulic couplers

3. Install the dust caps over the hydraulic couplers (Figure 3).

Installer supplied material: #2 Permatex™ gasket sealant

1. Apply a coat of No. 2 Permatex gasket sealant to the threads of the 4 90° fittings with 3/8 inch tapered-pipe threads.

2. Assemble the 90° fittings into the extend and retract ports of the lift cylinders (Figure 7).

   

   Figure 7

   preparing the lift cylinders

   1. Lift cylinder (cutting-unit position 7)
   2. Lift cylinder (cutting-unit position 6)
   3. 90° fitting (3/8 inch—tapered-pipe thread)

3. Tighten the 90° fittings at a 45° angel to the body of the cylinders as shown in Figure 7.

4. Use a piece of tape to mark the lift cylinders 6 and 7.

1. Align the holes in the cylinder rest with the 12.7 mm (1/2 inch)–diameter holes in the bottom of the cross channels (Figure 8)

   

   Figure 8

   1. Tapered washer
   2. Capscrew (1/2 x 1-1/2 inches)
   3. Cross channel
   4. Flange locknuts (1/2 inch)
   5. Cylinder rest

2. Secure the cylinder rest to the cross channels (Figure 8) with the 2 capscrews (1/2 x 1-1/2 inches), 2 tapered washers, and 2 flange locknuts (1/2 inch).

3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the other cylinder rest at the other side of the machine.

1. Align the holes in the 2 spacer tubes and the holes in the flanges of the cutting-unit 6 lift cylinder with the 25 mm (1 inch)-diameter holes in the top of cross channels (Figure 9).

   

   Figure 9

   1. Spacer tube
   2. Cylinder body
   3. Cross channels

2. Assemble the shaft—25 x 305 mm (1 x 12 inches) through the spacer tubes and the cylinder-body flanges (Figure 10).

   

   Figure 10

   1. Cotter pins (3/16 x 1-3/4 inches)
   2. Shaft—25 x 305 mm (1 x 12 inches)

3. Secure the shaft to the cross channels (Figure 10) with 2 cotter pins (3/16 x 1-3/4 inches).

4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 for the cutting-unit 7 lift cylinder at the other side of the machine.

1. Align the holes in the lift-arm stop with the 12.7 mm (1/2 inch)–diameter holes in the top of the cross channels as shown in Figure 11.

   

   Figure 11

   1. Capscrew (1/2 x 1-1/2 inches)
   2. Lift-arm stop
   3. Cross channel
   4. Flange locknuts (1/2 inch)
   5. Tapered washer

2. Secure the lift-arm stop to the cross channels (Figure 11) with the 2 capscrews (1/2 x 1-1/2 inches), 2 tapered washers, and 2 flange locknuts (1/2 inch).

3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the lift-arm stop at the other side of the machine.

1. Align the hole in the lift-arm tube with the holes in the arm brackets of the cross channels (Figure 13).

   

   Figure 13

   1. Locknut (3/4 inch)
   2. Lift-arm tube
   3. Lift-bail pin
   4. Arm bracket (cross channel)
   5. Capscrew (5/16 x 3/4 inch)

2. Loosely assemble the lift arm to the cross channels with (Figure 13) the lift-bail pin and the locknut (3/4 inch).

3. Align the hole in the tab of the lift-bail pin with the threaded hole in the arm bracket (Figure 13), and secure the pin to the bracket with a capscrew (5/16 x 3/4 inch).

4. Torque the locknut (3/4 inch) to 91 to 113 N∙m (67 to 83 ft-lb).

5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the lift arm at the other side of the machine.

1. Align the holes in the link, washers (1-1/8 x 2 inches), and the fitting of the lift-cylinder rod (Figure 14).

   

   Figure 14

   1. Link
   2. Washer (1-1/8 x 2 inches)
   3. Lift-cylinder rod
   4. Shaft—25 x 102 mm (1 x 4 inches)
   5. Washer (3/8 x 1-5/8 inches)
   6. Lock washer (3/8 inch)
   7. Capscrew (3/8 x 1 inch)

2. Assemble the shaft—25 x 102 mm (1 x 4 inches) through the holes in the link washers, cylinder-rod fitting (Figure 14).

3. Secure the shaft to the link with (Figure 14) 2 capscrews (3/8 x 1 inch), 2 lock washers (3/8 inch), and 2 washers (3/8 x 1-5/8 inches).

4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 for the lift arm at the other side of the machine.

1. Align the holes in the drawbar with the holes on the pivot housing of the lift bail (Figure 15).

   Note: When installing the drawbar, the offset hole in the drawbar should be positioned up and the lift bail stop should be on the top of the drawbar

   

   Figure 15

   1. Pivot housing (lift bail)
   2. Capscrew (1/2 x 4 inches)
   3. Drawbar
   4. Locknut (1/2 inch)

2. Assemble the drawbar to the lift bail (Figure 15) with a capscrew (1/2 x 4 inches), and locknut (1/2 inch)

3. Tighten the locknut.

   Note: Ensure that the drawbar can freely pivot.

4. Lubricate the 3 grease fittings for the lift arm and pivot housing (Figure 16).

   

   Figure 16

5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the drawbar at the other side of the machine.

1. Remove the 3 knobs from the levers of the control console (Figure 23).

   

   Figure 23

   1. Knob
   2. Lever
   3. Cover
   4. Flange-head screw
   5. Control console

2. Remove the 4 flange-head screws that secure the cover to the control console, and remove the cover (Figure 23).

1. Remove the locknut that secures the pivot pin to the control console, and remove the pin (Figure 24).

   

   Figure 24

   1. Pivot pin
   2. Control console
   3. Locknut

2. Assemble a lever into a lever block (Figure 25).

   

   Figure 25

   1. Lever block
   2. Pivot pin
   3. Lever
   4. Control-link bracket (leftmost)

3. Align the hole in the lever block with the holes in the leftmost control-link bracket (Figure 25).

4. Insert the pivot pin through the holes in the 4 the control-link brackets and lever blocks.

5. Repeat steps 2 through 4 for the lever and lever block for the rightmost control-link bracket.

6. Insert the pivot pin through the holes in the rightmost control-link bracket, lever blocks, and the control console (Figure 26).

   

   Figure 26

   1. Lever block
   2. Control-link bracket (rightmost)
   3. Control console
   4. Pivot pin
   5. Locknut

7. Secure the pivot pin to the console with the locknut (Figure 26).

1. At the control console, align the holes in the fork of the control rod with the hole in the lever block (Figure 27).

   

   Figure 27

   1. Clevis pin
   2. Lever block
   3. Cotter pin
   4. Control rod

2. Secure the rod to the block with a clevis pin and cotter pin (Figure 27).

3. At the control valve, assemble the control-rod link onto the clevis pin that is pressed into the control lever (Figure 28).

   Note: Do not install the cotter pin.

   

   Figure 28

   1. Clevis pin (control lever)
   2. Control-rod link

4. Compare the alignment of the lever for the control rod that you are installing with the levers for cutting-unit 4, cutting-unit 1, 2, and 3, and cutting-unit 5 (Figure 29).

   

   Figure 29

   1. Control-rod tube
   2. Nut (7/16 inch)
   3. Control-rod link

5. If the lever for the control rod is not aligned with the rest of the levers, separate the control-rod link from the control lever clevis pin, rotate the control-rod link to align the lever (Figure 29), and assemble the control-rod link to the control lever clevis pin (Figure 28).

6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 for the other control rod.

1. Align the cover over the levers (Figure 30).

   

   Figure 30

   1. Knob
   2. Lever
   3. Cover
   4. Flange-head screw
   5. Control console

2. Align the holes in the cover with the hole in the weld nuts of the control console.

3. Secure the cover to the console (Figure 30) with the 4 flange-head screws that you removed in Removing the Control-Console Cover.

4. Thread the 3 knobs that you removed in Removing the Control-Console Cover and the 2 knobs from the 5 to 7 conversion kit onto the levers (Figure 30).

5. Check the control levers by moving them to the raise and lower positions. Ensure that all levers move freely. Readjust control-rod link if necessary.

   

   Figure 31

   checking the lever travel and alignment

   1. Knob (lower position)
   2. Knob (raise position)

6. At the control valve, secure the control-rod link to the control lever with a cotter pin (Figure 32).

   

   Figure 32

   1. Clevis pin (control lever)
   2. Cotter pin

7. Tighten the nut (7/16 inch) on the control rod and link; refer to (Figure 33).

   

   Figure 33

   1. Control-rod tube
   2. Nut (7/16 inch)
   3. Control-rod link

8. Repeat steps 6 and 7 for the other side of the machine.