Z Master® Professional 6000 Series Riding Mower

Before starting the machine each day, perform the Each Use/Daily procedures listed in .

New engines take time to develop full power. Mower decks and drive systems have higher friction when new, placing additional load on the engine. Allow 40 to 50 hours of break-in time for new machines to develop full power and best performance.

The seat can move forward and backward. Position the seat where you have the best control of the machine and are most comfortable (Figure 10).

Figure 10

The seat is adjustable to provide a smooth and comfortable ride. Position the seat where you are most comfortable.

To adjust it, turn the knob in front either direction to provide the best comfort (Figure 13).

Figure 13

1. Seat-suspension knob

The MyRide™ suspension system adjusts to provide a smooth and comfortable ride. You can adjust the rear 2-shock assemblies to quickly and easily change the suspension system. Position the suspension system where you are most comfortable.

The slots for the rear-shock assemblies have detent positions for reference. You can position the rear-shock assemblies anywhere in the slot, not just in the detent positions. The following graphic shows the position for a soft or firm ride and the different detent positions (Figure 14).

Figure 14

1. Firmest position
2. Softest position
3. Detents in the slots

Note: Ensure that the left and right rear-shock assemblies are always adjusted to the same positions.

Adjust the rear-shock assemblies (Figure 15).

Figure 15

Use the mower deck as a step to get into the operator’s position (Figure 17).

Figure 17

1. Step here.

Always engage the parking brake when you stop the machine or leave it unattended.

Engaging the Parking Brake

Park the machine on a level surface.

Figure 18

Disengaging the Parking Brake

Figure 19

The blade-control switch (PTO) starts and stops the mower blades and any powered attachments.

Engaging the Blade-Control Switch (PTO)

Note: Engaging the blade-control switch (PTO) with the throttle position at half or less causes excessive wear to the drive belts.

Figure 20

Disengaging the Blade-Control Switch (PTO)

Figure 21

You can move the throttle control between FAST and SLOW positions (Figure 22).

Always use the FAST position when engaging the PTO.

Figure 22

Important: Do not engage starter for more than 5 seconds at a time. If the engine fails to start, wait 15 seconds between attempts. Failure to follow these instructions can burn out the starter motor.

Note: You may need multiple attempts to start the engine the first time after adding fuel to an empty fuel system.

Figure 23

Figure 24

Important: Make sure that the fuel-shutoff valve is closed before transporting or storing the machine, as fuel leakage may occur. Engage the parking brake before transporting. Make sure that you remove the key as the fuel pump may run and cause the battery to lose charge.

The drive wheels turn independently, powered by hydraulic motors on each axle. You can turn 1 side in reverse while you turn the other forward, causing the machine to spin rather than turn. This greatly improves the machine maneuverability but may require some time for you to adapt to how it moves.

The throttle control regulates the engine speed as measured in rpm (revolutions per minute). Place the throttle control in the FAST position for best performance. Always operate in the full throttle position when mowing.

The mower has a hinged grass deflector that disperses clippings to the side and down toward the turf.

Whenever you change the height-of-cut, adjust the height of the anti-scalp rollers.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Adjust the anti-scalp rollers as shown in Figure 30, Figure 31, and Figure 32.

   

   Figure 30

   1. Anti-scalp roller
   2. Spacer
   3. Bushing
   4. Flange nut
   5. Bolt
   

   Figure 31

   1. Anti-scalp roller
   2. Bushing
   3. Flange nut
   4. Bolt
   

   Figure 32

   1. Anti-scalp roller
   2. Spacer
   3. Bushing
   4. Flange nut
   5. Bolt

This procedure applies only to machines with the flow baffle knob. Certain models have nuts and bolts instead of the flow baffle knob that you can adjust the same way.

You can adjust the mower discharge flow for different types of mowing conditions. Position the knob and baffle to give the best quality of cut.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Loosen the knob.

4. Slide the knob to the desired position.

5. Tighten the knob.

The following figures are recommendations only. Adjustments vary by grass type, moisture content, and the height of the grass.

Note: If the engine power draws down and the mower ground speed is the same, open the baffle.

Position B

Use this position when bagging. Always align it with the blower opening.

Figure 34

The fuel-shutoff valve is located under the seat. Move the seat forward to access it.

Close the fuel-shutoff valve for transport, maintenance, and storage.

Ensure that the fuel-shutoff valve is open when starting the engine.

Figure 36

1. ON position
2. OFF position

The drive-wheel-release valves are located in the back of each hydraulic-drive unit, under the seat.

Note: Make sure that the release valves are in the fully horizontal position when operating the machine; otherwise, severe damage to the hydraulic system can occur.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Rotate the release-valve levers vertically to push the machine (Figure 37).

   Note: This allows hydraulic fluid to bypass the pump, enabling the wheels to turn.

4. Disengage the parking brake before pushing the machine.

   

   Figure 37

   1. Vertical to push the machine
   2. Horizontal to run the machine

5. Rotate the release valve levers horizontally to run the machine (Figure 37).

Use a heavy-duty trailer or truck to transport the machine. Use a full-width ramp. Ensure that the trailer or truck has all the necessary brakes, lighting, and marking as required by law. Please carefully read all the safety instructions. Knowing this information could help you or bystanders avoid injury. Refer to your local ordinances for trailer and tie-down requirements.

Selecting a Trailer

Warning

Loading a machine onto a trailer or truck increases the possibility of tip-over and could cause serious injury or death (Figure 38).

• Use only a full-width ramp; do not use individual ramps for each side of the machine.

• Do not exceed a 15-degree angle between the ramp and the ground or between the ramp and the trailer or truck.

• Ensure that the length of the ramp is at least 4 times as long as the height of the trailer or truck bed to the ground. This ensures that the ramp angle does not exceed 15 degrees on flat ground.

Figure 38

1. Full-width ramp in stowed position
2. Side view of full-width ramp in loading position
3. Not greater than 15 degrees
4. Ramp is at least 4 times as long as the height of the trailer or truck bed to the ground
5. H=height of the trailer or truck bed to the ground
6. Trailer

Grease the machine more often in dirty or dusty conditions.

Grease Type: No. 2 lithium or molybdenum grease

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Clean the grease fittings with a rag.

   Note: Scrape any paint off the front of the fitting(s).

4. Connect a grease gun to the fitting.

5. Pump grease into the fittings until grease begins to ooze out of the bearings.

6. Wipe up any excess grease.

Use light oil or spray lubricant to lubricate the deck-lift pivots.

Figure 41

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Grease the mower deck idler-pulley pivot until grease comes out the bottom (Figure 42).

   

   Figure 42

4. Grease the drive-belt-idler arm (Figure 43).

   

   Figure 43

5. Remove the dust cap and adjust the caster pivots.

   Note: Keep the dust cap off until greasing is done.

6. Remove the hex plug.

7. Thread a grease fitting into the hole.

8. Pump grease into the fitting until it oozes out around the top bearing.

9. Remove the grease fitting in the hole.

10. Install the hex plug and dust cap (Figure 44).

    

    Figure 44

11. Grease the caster-wheel bearings (Figure 44).

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Remove the dust cap and adjust the caster pivots and keep the dust cap off until greasing is done; refer to Greasing the Mower Deck.

4. Remove the hex plug.

5. Thread a grease fitting into the hole.

6. Pump grease into the fitting until it oozes out around the top bearing.

7. Remove the grease fitting from the hole. Install the hex plug and cap.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Raise the mower for access.

4. Remove the caster wheel from the caster forks.

5. Remove the seal guards from the wheel hub.

   

   Figure 45

   1. Seal guard
   2. Spacer nut with wrench flats

6. Remove a spacer nut from the axle assembly in the caster wheel.

   Note: Thread-locking compound has been applied to lock the spacer nuts to the axle.

7. Remove the axle (with the other spacer nut still assembled to it) from the wheel assembly.

8. Pry out seals and inspect bearings for wear or damage and replace if necessary.

9. Pack the bearings with a general-purpose grease.

10. Insert 1 bearing and 1 new seal into the wheel.

11. If the axle assembly is missing both spacer nuts, apply a thread-locking compound to 1 spacer nut and thread it onto the axle with the wrench flats facing outward.

    Note: Do not thread the spacer nut all of the way onto the end of the axle. Leave approximately 3 mm (1/8 inch) from the outer surface of the spacer nut to the end of the axle inside the nut.

12. Insert the assembled nut and axle into the wheel on the side with the new seal and bearing.

13. With the open end of the wheel facing up, fill the area inside the wheel around the axle full of general-purpose grease.

14. Insert the second bearing and new seal into the wheel.

15. Apply a thread-locking compound to the second spacer nut, and thread it onto the axle with the wrench flats facing outward.

16. Torque the nut to 8 to 9 N∙m (75 to 80 in-lb), loosen the nut, then torque it to 2 to 3 N∙m (20 to 25 in-lb).

    Note: Make sure that the axle does not extend beyond either nut.

17. Install the seal guards over the wheel hub, and insert the wheel into the caster fork.

18. Install the caster bolt and tighten the nut fully.

Important: To prevent seal and bearing damage, check the bearing adjustment often. Spin the caster tire. The tire should not spin freely (more than 1 or 2 revolutions) or have any side play. If the wheel spins freely, adjust the torque on the spacer nut until there is a slight amount of drag. Apply another layer of thread-locking compound.

Note: Service the air cleaner more frequently if operating conditions are extremely dusty or sandy.

Ensure that the air gap between the center and side electrodes is correct before installing the spark plug. Use a spark plug wrench for removing and installing the spark plug and a gapping tool or feeler gauge to check and adjust the air gap. Install a new spark plug if necessary.

Type of Spark Plug: NGK^® BPR5ES or equivalent

Air Gap: 0.75 mm (0.03 inch)

Checking the Spark Plug(s)

Important: Do not clean the spark plug(s). Always replace the spark plug(s) when it has a black coating, worn electrodes, an oily film, or cracks.

If you see light brown or gray on the insulator, the engine is operating properly. A black coating on the insulator usually means the air cleaner is dirty.

Set the gap to 0.75 mm (0.03 inch).

Figure 53

Installing the Spark Plug(s)

Figure 54

Important: Install the fuel line hoses and secure with plastic ties the same as they were originally installed at the factory to keep the fuel line away from components that can cause fuel line damage.

The fuel filter is located near the engine on the left front of the engine.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Allow the machine to cool down.

4. Close the fuel-shutoff valve under the seat.

5. Replace the fuel filter (Figure 55).

   

   Figure 55

   1. Fuel filter
   2. Hose clamp
   3. Fuel line hose

6. Open the fuel-shutoff valve.

Do not attempt to drain the fuel tank. Ensure that an Authorized Service Dealer drains the fuel tank and services any components of the fuel system.

The electrical system is protected by fuses. It requires no maintenance, however, if a fuse blows check the component/circuit for a malfunction or short.

The fuses are located on the console to the right of the seat (Figure 59).

1. To replace the fuses, pull out on the fuse to remove it.

2. Install a new fuse (Figure 59).

   

   Figure 59

   1. Optional accessory (15 A)
   2. Charge (25 A)
   3. PTO (10 A)
   4. Main (25 A)
   5. Console

Inspect the seat belt for wear, cuts, and proper operation of the retractor and buckle. Replace the seat belt if it is damaged.

• Check that both the mounting hardware and the knobs are in good working condition.

• Make sure that the knobs are fully engaged with the roll bar in the raised position.

  Note: The upper hoop of the roll bar may need to be pushed forward or pulled rearward to fully engage both knobs (Figure 60 and Figure 61).

Figure 60

1. Roll bar in the upright position
2. Roll-bar knob in the latched position
3. Pull the roll-bar knob out and rotate it 90 degrees.
4. Rotate the roll-bar knob 90 degrees.
5. Roll-bar knob in the unlatched position
6. Roll bar in the folded position

Figure 61

1. Engaged
2. Partially engaged—do not operate with the roll bar in this position.

1. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO).

2. Drive to an open flat area, move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position.

3. Move the throttle midway between the FAST and SLOW positions.

4. Move both motion-control levers all the way forward until they both hit the stops in the T-slot.

5. Check which way the machine tracks.

6. Engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

7. Adjust the stop plates as needed.

   • If the machine tracks to the right, loosen the bolts and adjust the left stop plate rearward on the left T-slot until the machine tracks straight (Figure 62).

   • If the machine tracks to the left, loosen the bolts and adjust the right stop plate rearward on the right T-slot until the machine tracks straight (Figure 62).

8. Tighten the stop plate (Figure 62).

   

   Figure 62

   Left control lever shown

   1. Control lever
   2. Bolt
   3. Stop plate

Maintain the air pressure in the rear tires at 90 kPa (13 psi). Uneven tire pressure can cause uneven cut. Check the tires when they are cold to get the most accurate pressure reading.

Note: The front tires are semi-pneumatic tires and do not require air pressure maintenance.

Figure 63

Check and torque the wheel lug nuts to 122 to 129 N∙m (90 to 95 ft-lb).

Check and ensure that the torque of the slotted nut is 286 to 352 N∙m (211 to 260 ft-lb).

Note: Do not use anti-seize compound on wheel hub.

Figure 64

1. Slotted nut

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Remove the dust cap from caster and tighten the locknut (Figure 65).

4. Tighten the locknut until the spring washers are flat, and then back off a 1/4 turn to properly set the preload on the bearings (Figure 65).

   Important: Make sure that the spring washers are installed correctly as shown in Figure 65.

5. Install the dust cap (Figure 65).

   

   Figure 65

   1. Spring washers
   2. Locknut
   3. Dust cap

Some later model year units have been built with clutches that contain a brake shim. When the clutch brake has worn to the point where the clutch no longer engages consistently, you can remove the shim to extend the clutch life.

Figure 66

1. Armature
2. Field shell
3. Rotor
4. Brake-mounting bolt
5. Brake spacer
6. Re-gap shim
7. Brake pole

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Using an air compressor, blow out any debris from under the brake pole and around the brake spacers (Figure 67).

   

   Figure 67

4. Check the condition of the wire-harness leads, connectors, and terminals.

   Note: Clean or repair as necessary.

5. Verify that 12 V is present at the clutch connector when the blade-control switch (PTO) switch is engaged.

6. Measure the gap between the rotor and armature. If the gap is greater than 1 mm (0.04 inch), do the following steps:

   1. Loosen both brake-mounting bolts 1/2 to 1 full turn as shown in Figure 68.

      Note: Do not remove the brake pole from the field shell/armature. The brake pole has worn to match the armature and needs to continue to match after you remove the shim to ensure proper brake torque.

      

      Figure 68

      1. Brake-mounting bolt

   2. Using needle-nose pliers, or by hand, hold the tab and remove the shim (Figure 69).

      Note: Do not discard the shim until the clutch is functioning properly.

      

      Figure 69

      1. Shim

   3. Using a pneumatic line, blow out any debris from under the brake pole and around the brake spacers.

   4. Torque each bolt (M6 x 1) to 12.3 to 13.7 N∙m (9.5 to 10.5 ft-lb).

   5. Using a 0.25 mm (0.01 inch) thick feeler gauge, verify that a gap is present between the rotor and the armature face on both sides of the brake pole as shown in Figure 70 and Figure 71.

      Note: Due to the way the rotor and the armature faces wear (peaks and valleys) it is sometimes difficult to measure the gap accurately.

      

      Figure 70

      1. Feeler gauge
      

      Figure 71

      1. Feeler gauge

      • If the gap is less than 0.25 mm (0.01 inch), then install the shim.

      • If the gap is sufficient, proceed to the safety check in step 6.

   6. Perform the following safety check:

      1. Sit on the seat and start the engine.

      2. Make sure that the blades do not engage with the blade-control switch (PTO) in the OFF position, and that the clutch is disengaged.

         If the clutch does not disengage, install the shim again.

      3. Engage and disengage the blade-control switch (PTO) 10 consecutive times to ensure that the clutch is functioning properly.

Remove any buildup of grass, dirt, or other debris from the oil cooler and the engine screen (Figure 72).

Figure 72

Remove any buildup of grass, dirt, or other debris from the engine screen. This helps ensure adequate cooling and correct engine speed and reduces the possibility of overheating and mechanical damage to the engine (Figure 69).

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Remove the air-intake screen, the recoil starter, and the fan housing (Figure 73).

4. Clean the debris and grass from the engine parts.

5. Install the air-intake screen, the recoil starter, and the fan housing (Figure 73).

   

   Figure 73

   1. Engine guard
   2. Engine air-intake screen
   3. Bolt
   4. Fan housing
   5. Screw

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Move the seat forward.

4. Clean the debris and grass from the hydraulic-unit shrouds (Figure 74).

5. Position the seat.

   

   Figure 74

   1. Hydraulic-unit shrouds

Check to ensure that parking brake is adjusted properly. This procedure must be followed after the first 100 hours or when a brake component has been removed or replaced.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Raise the rear of the machine up and support the machine with jack stands.

4. Remove the rear tires from the machine.

5. Remove any debris from the brake area.

6. Release the drive wheels; refer to Using the Drive-Wheel-Release Valves.

7. Disengage the parking brake.

8. Remove the spring clevis pin from the rear linkage and caliper (Figure 75).

   

   Figure 75

   1. Rear linkage
   2. Jam nut
   3. Spring clevis pin
   4. Caliper
   5. Wheel hub

9. Loosen the jam nut on the rear linkage.

10. Push the caliper lever forward with finger pressure until the brake pad contacts the hub rotor.

11. Adjust the rear linkage until the spring clevis pin can be inserted in the hole in the caliper lever.

    Note: To lengthen the linkage, rotate the clevis 1 turn outward.

12. Tighten the jam nut on the rear linkage (Figure 75).

13. Ensure that the wheel hub moves freely between the caliper brake pads.

14. Repeats steps 8 to 13 for the right side.

15. Rotate the drive wheel release handle to the operating position; refer to Using the Drive-Wheel-Release Valves.

16. Install the rear tires and torque the lug nuts to 129 N∙m (95 ft-lb).

17. Remove the jack stands.

Replace the belt if it is worn. The signs of a worn belt include squealing while the belt is rotating; the blades slipping while cutting grass; and frayed edges, burn marks, and cracks on the belt.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Lower the mower to the 76 mm (3 inch) height of cut.

4. Remove the belt covers (Figure 76).

   

   Figure 76

   1. Push the tab down.
   2. Remove the belt cover.

5. Use a ratchet in the square hole in the idler arm to remove tension on the idler spring (Figure 77).

6. Remove the belt from the mower-deck pulleys.

7. Remove the belt guide on the spring-loaded idler arm (Figure 77).

8. Remove the existing belt.

9. Install the new belt around the mower pulleys and the clutch pulley under the engine (Figure 77).

   

   Figure 77

   1. Clutch pulley
   2. Mower belt
   3. Spring-loaded idler pulley
   4. Ratchet
   5. Square hole in the idler arm for the ratchet
   6. Idler-grease fitting
   7. Belt guide

10. Install the belt guide on the idler arm (Figure 77).

11. Using the ratchet in the square hole, install the idler spring (Figure 77).

    Note: Make sure that the spring ends are seated in the anchor grooves.

12. Install the belt covers (Figure 78).

    

    Figure 78

    1. Position the belt cover.
    2. Slide the belt cover under the side catches.
    3. Ensure that the tab is under the metal catch.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Remove the mower belt; refer to Replacing the Mower Belt.

4. Raise the machine and support it with jack stands (Figure 79).

   

   Figure 79

   1. Idler pulley
   2. Clutch pulley
   3. Pump-drive belt
   4. Right hydraulic-pump pulley
   5. Left hydraulic-pump pulley
   6. Square hole in the idler arm
   7. Idler spring

5. Use a ratchet in the square hole in the idler arm to remove the idler spring (Figure 79).

6. Unhook the idler spring from the frame (Figure 79).

7. Remove the belt from the hydraulic-unit-drive pulleys and the engine pulley.

8. Install the new belt around engine pulley and the 2 drive pulleys.

9. Using a ratchet in the square hole in the idler arm, install the idler spring to the frame (Figure 79).

10. Install the mower belt; refer to Replacing the Mower Belt.

There are 2 height positions for the control levers—high and low. Remove the bolts to adjust the height for the operator.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Loosen the bolts and flange nuts installed in the levers (Figure 80).

4. Align the levers in the front-to-rear position by bringing the levers together to the NEUTRAL position, and slide them until they are aligned, then tighten the bolts (Figure 81).

   

   Figure 80

   1. Bolt (2)
   2. Handle
   3. Control lever
   4. Nut (2)
   

   Figure 81

5. If the ends of the levers hit against each other, refer to Adjusting the Motion-Control Neutral-Lock Pivot.

6. Repeat to adjust the control levers.

Located on either side of the machine, below the seat, are the pump-control linkages. Rotating the end nut with a 1/2-inch deep socket wrench allows fine tuning adjustments so that the machine does not move in neutral. Any adjustments should be made for neutral positioning only.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Push the deck-lift pedal, remove the height-of-cut pin, and lower the mower deck to the ground

4. Raise the rear of the machine up and support it with jack stands (or equivalent support) just high enough to allow the drive wheels to turn freely.

5. Remove the electrical connection from the seat safety switch, located under the bottom cushion of the seat.

   Note: The switch is a part of the seat assembly.

6. Temporarily install a jumper wire across the terminals in the connector of the main wire harness.

7. Start the engine, run it at full throttle, and disengage the parking brake.

   Note: Before starting the engine, ensure that the parking brake is engaged and that the motion-control levers are out. You do not have to be in the seat.

8. Run the machine at least 5 minutes with the drive levers at full forward speed to bring the hydraulic fluid up to the operating temperature.

   Note: The motion-control levers must be in neutral while you are making any adjustments.

9. Bring the motion-control levers into the NEUTRAL position.

10. Adjust the pump-control-rod lengths by rotating the double nuts on the rod in the appropriate direction until the wheels slightly creep in reverse (Figure 82).

    

    Figure 82

    1. Double nuts

11. Move the motion-control levers to the REVERSE position and while applying slight pressure to the lever, allow the reverse-indicator springs to bring the levers back to neutral.

    Note: The wheels should stop turning or slightly creep in reverse.

12. Shut off the machine.

13. Remove the jumper wire from the wire harness and plug the connector into the seat switch.

14. Remove the jack stands.

15. Raise the mower deck and install the height-of-cut pin.

16. Check and ensure that the machine does not creep in neutral with the parking brake disengaged.

You can adjust the top damper-mounting bolt to obtain the desired motion-control lever resistance. Refer to Figure 83 for mounting options.

Figure 83

Right Motion Control Shown

1. Torque the locknut to 23 N∙m (17 ft-lb). The bolt must protrude past the end of the locknut after torquing.
2. Most resistance (firmest feel)
3. Damper
4. Medium resistance (medium feel)
5. Least resistance (softest feel)

You can adjust the flanged nut to obtain the desired motion-control lever resistance when moving it to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position. See Figure 84 for adjustment options.

1. Loosen the jam nut.

2. Tighten or loosen the flanged nut to the desired feel.

   • For more resistance, tighten the flanged nut.

   • For less resistance, loosen the flanged nut

3. Tighten the jam nut.

   

   Figure 84

   1. Flanged nut
   2. Jam nut

Hydraulic-Fluid Type: Toro^® HYPR-OIL^™ 500 hydraulic fluid or Mobil^® 1 15W-50.

Important: Use the specified fluid. Other fluids could damage the hydraulic system.

Each Hydraulic-System Fluid Capacity: 1.5 L (52 fl oz) per side with filter change

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Allow the engine and the hydraulic system to cool for 10 minutes.

   Note: The oil level on the dipstick is incorrect when the oil is checked and the machine is hot.

4. Move the seat forward.

5. Clean the area around the dipsticks of hydraulic-system reservoirs (Figure 85).

6. Remove 1 dipstick from the hydraulic reservoir (Figure 85).

7. Wipe the dipstick off and thread the dipstick into the reservoir.

8. Remove the dipstick and look at the end (Figure 85).

   Important: Do not overfill the hydraulic units with fluid, as damage may occur. Do not run the machine with fluid below the add mark.

9. If the fluid level is at the add mark, slowly pour only enough fluid into the hydraulic reservoir to raise the level to the full or H line.

10. Install the dipstick.

11. Repeat the procedure for the opposite dipstick.

    

    Figure 85

    Either dipstick is used in the machine

    1. Full
    2. Add
    3. H —means high level
    4. Dipstick locations under seat

To replace the hydraulic fluid, the filters need to be removed. Replace both at the same time; refer to Hydraulic-Fluid Specifications for fluid specifications.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Raise the machine and support it with jack stands (Figure 86).

   

   Figure 86

   1. Jack stands

4. Remove both the mower belt and the pump-drive belt; refer to Replacing the Mower Belt and Replacing the Hydraulic Pump-Drive Belt.

   Note: This prevents fluid from getting on the belts.

5. Place a drain pan under the filter, remove the old filter, and wipe the surface clean (Figure 87).

   

   Figure 87

   Bottom view of the machine

   1. Filter locations
   2. Hydraulic filter

6. Apply a thin coat of hydraulic fluid to the rubber gasket on the replacement filter (Figure 87).

7. Install the replacement hydraulic filter.

8. Install the pump-drive belt and the mower belt.

9. Remove the jack stands and lower the machine (Figure 86).

10. Add fluid to the hydraulic reservoir and check for any leaks.

11. Clean up any spilled fluid.

12. Start the engine and let it run for about 2 minutes to purge air from the system.

13. Shut off the engine and check for leaks.

14. Check the fluid level while the fluid is cold.

15. If required, add fluid to the hydraulic reservoir.

    Note: Do not overfill.

To ensure a superior quality of cut, keep the blades sharp. For convenient sharpening and replacement, you may want to keep extra blades on hand.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Check the tire pressure in the drive tires; refer to Checking the Tire Pressure.

4. Position the transport lock in the latching position.

5. Push the deck-lift pedal all the way forward and the deck latches at the 14 cm (5-1/2 inches) transport position (Figure 98).

   

   Figure 98

   1. Deck-lift pedal
   2. Height-of-cut pin
   3. Transport lock

6. Insert the height-adjustment pin into the 7.6 cm (3 inches) cutting-height location.

7. Release the transport lock and allow the deck to lower to the cutting height.

8. Raise the discharge chute.

9. On both sides of the deck, measure from the level surface to the front tip of the blade (Postion A) as shown in Figure 99.

   Note: The measurement should read 7.6 mm (3 inches)

   

   Figure 99

   1. 7.6 cm (3 inch) at position A is correct
   2. 8.3 cm (3-1/4 inch) at position B is correct
   3. Measure here from the blade tip to the hard surface
   4. Measure at position A and B on both sides

10. Fine-tune the adjustment nut on the front deck-lift assembly by turning it (Figure 100).

    Note: To increase the height, turn the adjustment nut clockwise; to decrease the height, turn the nut counterclockwise.

    Note: If the front deck links do not have enough adjustment to achieve accurate cut height, you can use the single-point adjustment to gain more adjustment.

    

    Figure 100

    1. Adjustment nut
    2. Jam nut
    3. Rear deck adjustment
    4. Front deck adjustment

11. To adjust the single-point system, loosen the 2 bolts at the bottom of the height-of-cut plate (Figure 101).

    

    Figure 101

    1. Bolts at the bottom of the height-of-cut plate

12. If the deck is too low, tighten the single-point-adjustment bolt by rotating it clockwise. If the deck is too high, loosen the single-point-adjustment bolt by rotating it counterclockwise (Figure 102).

    Note: Loosen or tighten the single-point adjustment bolt enough to move the height-of-cut plate mounting bolts at least 1/3 the length of the available travel in their slots. This regains some up and down adjustment on each of the 4 deck links.

    

    Figure 102

    1. Single-point adjustment bolt

13. Tighten the 2 bolts at the bottom of the height-of-cut plate (Figure 101).

    Note: In most conditions, the back blade tip should be adjusted 6.4 mm (1/4 inch) higher than the front.

14. Torque the 2 bolts to 37 to 45 N∙m (27 to 33 ft-lb).

15. On both sides of the deck, measure from the level surface to the back tip of the blade (postion B) as shown in Figure 99.

    Note: The measurement should read 8.3 cm (3-1/4 inches)

16. Fine tune the screw adjuster by turning it to get 8.3 mm (3-1/4 inches) height (Figure 100).

    To increase the height, turn the adjustment nut clockwise; to decrease, turn counterclockwise.

17. Measure until all 4 sides are the correct height.

18. Tighten all of the nuts on the deck-lift-arm assemblies.

19. Lower the discharge chute.

Lock out the spring-loaded deck arms before servicing or removing the mower deck.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Place the height adjustment pin in the 7.6 cm (3 inch) cutting-height location.

   Note: This locks the deck-lift arms in the lowest position when the deck is removed and the stored energy in the deck spring is released.

4. Remove the belt covers.

5. Lift up the floor pan and insert a ratchet into the square hole in the deck idler (Figure 103).

6. Rotate the deck idler clockwise and remove the mower belt (Figure 103).

   

   Figure 103

   1. Clutch pulley
   2. Mower belt
   3. Spring-loaded idler pulley
   4. Ratchet
   5. Square hole in the idler arm for the ratchet
   6. Idler grease fitting
   7. Belt guide

7. Remove and retain the hardware on both sides of the deck as shown in Figure 104.

   

   Figure 104

   1. Right stabilizer
   2. Deck strut (right side shown)
   3. Remove the shoulder bolt and nut.
   4. Remove the shoulder bolt and nut.

8. Raise the deck struts and secure them in the raised position.

9. Slide the deck out to the right side of the machine.

1. Remove the locknut, bolt, spring, and spacer holding the deflector to the pivot brackets (Figure 105).

2. Remove the damaged or worn grass deflector (Figure 105).

   

   Figure 105

   1. Bolt
   2. Spacer
   3. Locknut
   4. Spring
   5. Spring installed
   6. Grass deflector
   7. J-hook end of spring

3. Place the spacer and the spring onto grass deflector.

4. Place 1 J-hook end of the spring behind the deck edge.

   Note: Make sure that 1 J-hook end of the spring is installed behind the deck edge before installing the bolt as shown in Figure 105.

5. Install the bolt and the nut.

6. Place 1 J-hook end of the spring around the grass deflector (Figure 105).

   Important: The grass deflector must be able to rotate. Lift the deflector up to the full open position and ensure that it rotates into the full down position.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Raise the mower deck to the TRANSPORT position.

Use compressed air to clean the suspension system.

Note: Do not clean the shock assemblies with pressurized water (Figure 106).

Figure 106

Engine oil, batteries, hydraulic fluid, and engine coolant are pollutants to the environment. Dispose of these according to your state and local regulations.