100in Rear Discharge Deck

You can change he height of cut on the center deck by moving the stop pin into different hole locations.

1. With the engine running, push back on the mower lift switch until the mower is fully raised and release the switch immediately.

2. Rotate the stop pin until the nub on it lines up with the slots in the holes in the height-of-cut bracket and remove it (Figure 4).

   

   Figure 4

   1. Stop pin

3. Select a hole in the height-of-cut bracket corresponding to the height of cut desired, insert the pin, and rotate it down to lock it in place (Figure 4).

   Note: There are 4 rows of hole positions (Figure 4). The top row gives you the height of cut listed above the pin. The second row down gives you the height listed plus 6 mm (1/4 inch). The third row down gives you the height listed plus 12 mm (1/2 inch). The bottom row gives you the height listed plus 18 mm (3/4 inch). For the 127 mm (5 inch) position there is only 1 hole, located in the second row. This does not add 6 mm (1/4 inch) to the 127 mm (5 inch) position.

4. Adjust the anti-scalp rollers and skids as required.

Adjust the height of cut on the wing decks by positioning the caster wheel axles in the upper or lower holes of the caster forks, adding or removing an equal number of spacers from the caster forks, and securing the height-of-cut collar to the desired holes in the height-of-cut rod.

1. Start the engine and raise the cutting unit off the floor so that you can adjust the height of cut. Shut off the engine and remove the key after you raise the cutting unit.

2. Position the caster wheel axles in the same holes in both caster forks. Refer to Figure 5 to determine the correct holes for the setting.

   

   Figure 5

   1. Tensioning cap
   2. Spacers
   3. Shims
   4. Axle mounting holes
   5. Caster wheel

   Note: When operating in a 64 mm (2-1/2 inch) cutting height or higher, install the axle bolt in the lower caster fork hole to prevent grass buildup between the wheel and the fork. When operating in a cutting height lower than 64 mm (2-1/2 inch) and there is grass buildup, reverse the machines direction to pull any clippings away from the wheel/fork area.

3. Remove the tensioning cap from the spindle shaft (Figure 5) and slide the spindle out of the caster arm. Put the 2 shims (3 mm or 1/8 inch) onto the spindle shaft as they were originally installed. These shims are required to achieve a level across the entire width of the cutting units. Slide the appropriate number of 13 mm (1/2 inch) spacers onto the spindle shaft to get the desired height of cut; then slide the washer onto the shaft.

   Note: When using 25 mm (1 inch), 38 mm (1-1/2 inch), or occasionally 51 mm (2 inch) height of cut, move the skids and roller to the highest holes.

4. Secure the adjustment with the tensioning cap.

Cutting unit pitch is the difference in height of cut from the front of the blade plane to the back of the blade plane. Toro recommends a blade pitch of approximately 8 to 11 mm (5/16 to 7/16 inch). This means that the back of the blade plane is 8 to 11 mm (5/16 to 7/16 inch) higher than the front.

1. Park the machine on a level surface on the shop floor.

2. Set the mower to the desired height of cut, move the throttle lever to the SLOW position, shut off the engine, engage the parking brake, and remove the key.

3. Rotate the center blade so that it points straight forward.

4. Using a short ruler, measure from the floor to the front tip of the blade.

5. Rotate the same blade tip to the rear and measure from the floor to the tip of the blade at the rear of the mower.

6. Subtract the front dimension from the rear dimension to calculate the blade pitch.

7. Adjust the U-bolt jam nuts (Figure 10) securing the rear deck chains (Figure 11) to the mower deck to raise the rear of the mower so that the blade pitch is set to 8 to 11 mm (5/16 to 7/16 inch).

   

   Figure 10

   1. U-bolt
   2. Jam nut
   

   Figure 11

   1. Left rear-lift chain
   2. Right rear-lift chain

If the cut is uneven across the mower swath, correct it as follows:

1. Park the machine on a level surface on the shop floor.

2. Set the cutting unit to the desired height of cut, move the throttle lever to the SLOW position, shut off the engine, engage the parking brake, and remove the key.

3. Check and adjust front and rear tractor tire pressure; refer to the traction unit Operator’s Manual.

4. Check for bent blades.

5. Remove the covers from the top of the cutting units.

6. Rotate the blade on each spindle until the ends face forward and backward.

7. Measure from the floor to the front tip of the cutting edge.

8. Adjust the jam nuts securing the deck chains to the mower deck until the mower deck is level (Figure 11).

To gain access to or from the operator area when the wing decks are folded up, release the caster arm latch (Figure 12) and rotate the caster arm away from the traction unit.

Figure 12

1. Caster-arm latch

Important: Rotate the caster arm back to the machine before mowing.

Before transporting the machine, raise the wing decks and secure the wing deck transport latches (Figure 13).

Figure 13

1. Wing deck transport latches

To maintain enough power for the machine and deck while mowing, operate the engine at the fast throttle position and adjust your ground speed for conditions. Decrease the ground speed as the load on the cutting blades increases, and increase the ground speed as the load on the blades decreases.

Alternate the mowing direction to avoid making ruts in the turf over time. This also helps disperse clippings, which enhances decomposition and fertilization.

To improve cut quality, use a slower ground speed.

Remove approximately 25 mm (1 inch) or no more than 1/3 of the grass blade when cutting. In exceptionally lush and dense grass, you may have to slow down the forward speed and/or raise the height of cut to the next higher setting.

If the grass is ever allowed to grow slightly longer than normal, or if it contains a high degree of moisture, raise the cutting height higher than usual and cut the grass at this setting. Then cut the grass again using the lower, normal setting.

Clean clippings and dirt from the underside of the mower after each use. If grass and dirt build up inside the mower, cutting quality will eventually become unsatisfactory.

To reduce the risk of fire hazard, keep the engine, muffler, battery compartment, parking brake, cutting units, and fuel storage compartment free of grass, leaves, or excessive grease. Clean up any spilled oil or fuel.

Use compressed air or a leaf blower to clean the belt drive area. Install any removed guards or covers after cleaning.

Maintain a sharp blade throughout the cutting season because a sharp blade cuts cleanly without tearing or shredding the grass blades. Tearing and shredding, which turns grass brown at the edges, slows growth and increases the chance of disease. Check the blades daily for sharpness, and for any wear or damage. Sharpen the blades as necessary. If a blade is damaged or worn, replace it immediately with a genuine Toro replacement blade. Refer to Servicing the Blades.

1. Disengage the PTO, release the traction pedal, and engage the parking brake.

2. Move the throttle lever to the SLOW position, stop the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

1. Inspect the cutting edges (Figure 25). If the edges are not sharp or have nicks, remove and sharpen the blades. Refer to Sharpening the Blades.

2. Inspect the blades, especially the sail area (Figure 25). If you notice any damage, wear, or a slot forming in this area (Figure 25), immediately install a new blade.

   Danger

   If you allow the blade to wear, a slot will form between the sail and flat part of the blade. Eventually a piece of the blade may break off and be thrown from under the housing, possibly resulting in serious injury or death to you or bystanders.

   • Inspect the blade periodically for wear or damage.

   • Never try to straighten a blade that is bent or weld a broken or cracked blade.

   • Replace a worn or damaged blade.

   

   Figure 25

   1. Cutting edge
   2. Sail area
   3. Wear/slot forming
   4. Crack

1. Disengage the PTO, release the traction pedal and engage the parking brake.

2. Move the throttle lever to the SLOW position, shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Rotate the blades until the ends face forward and backward (Figure 26).

   

   Figure 26

   1. Position A
   2. Measure here from blade to hard surface

4. Measure from a level surface to the cutting edge, position A, of the blades (Figure 26). Note this dimension.

5. Rotate the opposite ends of the blades forward.

6. Measure from a level surface to the cutting edge of the blades at the same position as in step 3 above. The difference between the dimensions obtained in steps 3 and 4 must not exceed 3 mm (1/8 inch). If this dimension exceeds 3 mm (1/8 inch), the blade is bent and must be replaced; refer to Removing the Blades and Installing the Blades.

   Warning

   A blade that is bent or damaged could break apart and could seriously injure or kill you or bystanders.

   • Always replace bent or damaged blade with a new blade.

   • Never file or create sharp notches in the edges or surfaces of blade.

A blade must be replaced if it is out of balance, bent, or if it is hit by a solid object. To ensure optimum performance and continued safety conformance of the machine, use genuine Toro replacement blades. Replacement blades made by other manufacturers may result in non-conformance with safety standards.

1. Hold the blade end using a rag or a thickly-padded glove.

2. Remove the blade bolt, the anti-scalp plate, and the blade from the spindle shaft (Figure 29).

1. Sharpen the cutting edge at both ends of the blade (Figure 27).

   Note: Maintain the original angle. The blade retains its balance if the same amount of material is removed from both cutting edges.

   

   Figure 27

   1. Sharpen at original angle

2. Check the balance of the blade by putting it on a blade balancer (Figure 28).

   Note: If the blade stays in a horizontal position, the blade is balanced and can be used. If the blade is not balanced, file some metal off the end of the sail area only (Figure 29). Repeat this procedure until the blade is balanced.

   

   Figure 28

   1. Blade
   2. Balancer
   

   Figure 29

   1. Spindle
   2. Sail area of blade
   3. Anti-scalp plate
   4. Blade bolt

Note: The 2 wing-deck blades are not the same as the 3 center blades.

1. Install the blade onto the spindle shaft (Figure 29).

   Important: The curved part of the blade must be pointing upward toward the inside of the mower to ensure proper cutting.

2. Install the anti-scalp plate and blade bolt (Figure 29).

3. Torque the blade bolt to 115 to 150 N∙m (85 to 110 ft-lb).

1. Start the engine, lower the left and right decks, shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop.

2. At the outer decks, wipe clean the tab of the inner channel (Figure 30).

   

   Figure 30

   1. Tab (inner channel—outer deck)
   2. Front of the machine
   3. Back of the machine

3. At the front of the deck, fully loosen the outboard serrated-flange nuts securing the 4 U-bolts (Figure 31).

   

   Figure 31

   1. Serrated-flange nut (inboard)
   2. U-bolt

4. At the back of the deck, fully loosen the inboard serrated-flange nuts securing the 4 U-bolts (Figure 32).

   

   Figure 32

   1. U-bolt
   2. Serrated-flange nut (outboard)

1. Install the deck shims at the front of the deck as shown in Figure 33.

   Note: Insert the part of the long tab of the shim under the belt cover.

   

   Figure 33

   1. Deck shim
   2. Inner-channel tab (outer deck)
   3. Belt cover

2. Install the deck shims at the front of the deck as shown in Figure 34.

   

   Figure 34

   1. Belt cover
   2. Inner-channel tab (outer deck)
   3. Deck shim

   Note: If you are using feeler gauges, use a piece of tape to adhere a feeler gauge—0.15 mm (0.060 inch) to the tab of the inner channel (Figure 35).

   

   Figure 35

   1. Inner-channel tab
   2. Feeler gauge
   3. Front of the machine
   4. Back of the machine

3. Start the engine, fully raise the left and right decks, shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop.

1. At the front of the deck, tighten the outboard serrated-flange nuts until the chains are tensioned (Figure 36).

   Note: Ensure that the deck shim (or feeler gauge) contacts then pivot link.

   Important: Ensure that the upper and lower serrated-flange nut pairs are adjusted evenly.

   

   Figure 36

   1. Deck shim (or feeler gauge)
   2. Serrated-flange nut (outboard)
   3. Pivot link
   4. Chain (limit)
   5. U-bolt
   6. Front of the machine
   7. Serrated-flange nut (inboard)

2. Thread the inboard serrated-flange nuts (Figure 36) and torque them to 103 to 127 N∙m (76 to 94 ft-lb).

3. At the back of the deck, tighten the inboard serrated-flange nuts until the chains are tensioned (Figure 37).

   Note: Ensure that the deck shim (or feeler gauge) contacts then pivot link.

   Important: Ensure that the upper and lower serrated-flange nut pairs are adjusted evenly.

   

   Figure 37

   1. Deck shim (or feeler gauge)
   2. Pivot link
   3. Chain (limit)
   4. U-bolt
   5. Serrated-flange nut (inboard)
   6. Front of the machine
   7. Serrated-flange nut (outboard)

4. Thread the outboard serrated-flange nuts (Figure 37) and torque them to 103 to 127 N∙m (76 to 94 ft-lb).

5. Start the engine, lower adjusted deck, raise the other deck, shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop.

6. Remove the shims or feeler gauges (Figure 38).

   

   Figure 38

7. Repeat steps in Assembling the Shim to the Deck and Tensioning the Chains for the other mower deck.