Groundsmaster® 3505-D Rotary Mower

Use only clean, fresh diesel fuel or biodiesel fuels with low (<500 ppm) or ultra low (<15 ppm) sulfur content. The minimum cetane rating should be 40. Purchase fuel in quantities that can be used within 180 days to ensure fuel freshness.

Important: Use of non-ultra low sulfur fuel causes damage to the engine emission system.

Fuel tank capacity: 42 L (11 US gallons)

Use summer-grade diesel fuel (No. 2-D) at temperatures above -7°C (20°F) and winter grade (No. 1-D or No. 1-D/2-D blend) below that temperature. Use of winter-grade fuel at lower temperatures provides lower flash point and cold-flow characteristics, which eases starting and reduces fuel filter plugging.

Use of summer-grade fuel above -7°C (20°F) contributes toward longer fuel-pump life and increased power compared to winter-grade fuel.

Important: Do not use kerosene or gasoline instead of diesel fuel. Failure to observe this caution damages the engine.

This machine can also use a biodiesel-blended fuel of up to B20 (20% biodiesel, 80% petrodiesel).

Sulfur content: Ultra-low sulfur (<15 ppm)

Biodiesel fuel specification: ASTM D6751 or EN14214

Blended fuel specification: ASTM D975, EN590, or JIS K2204

Important: The petroleum diesel portion must be ultra-low sulfur.

Observe the following precautions:

• Biodiesel blends may damage painted surfaces.

• Use B5 (biodiesel content of 5%) or lesser blends in cold weather.

• Monitor seals, hoses, gaskets in contact with fuel as they may degrade over time.

• Fuel filter plugging may occur for a time after you convert to biodiesel blends.

• For more information on biodiesel, contact your authorized Toro distributor.

1. Clean the area around the fuel-tank cap (Figure 27).

2. Remove the fuel-tank cap.

3. Fill the tank to the bottom of the filler neck. Do not overfill. Install the cap.

4. To prevent a fire hazard, wipe up any spilled fuel.

   

   Figure 27

   1. Fuel-tank cap

Note: If possible, fill the fuel tank after each use. This minimizes buildup of condensation inside the fuel tank.

This blade was designed to provide excellent lift and dispersion in almost any condition. If more or less lift and discharge velocity is required, consider a different blade.

Attributes: Excellent lift and dispersion in most conditions

The blade generally performs best in lower heights of cut—1.9 to 6.4 cm (3/4 to 2-1/2 inches).

Attributes:

• Discharge remains more even at lower heights of cut.

• Discharge has less tendency to throw left and thus a cleaner look around bunkers and fairways.

• Lower power requirement at lower heights and dense turf.

The blade generally performs better in the higher heights of cut—7 to 10 cm (2 to 4 inches).

Attributes:

• More lift and higher discharge velocity

• Sparse or limp turf is picked up significantly at higher heights of cut

• Wet or sticky clippings are discharged more efficiently reducing congestion in the cutting unit.

• Requires more horsepower to run

• Tends to discharge further left and can tend to windrow at lower heights of cut

This blade was designed to provide excellent leaf mulching.

Attribute: Excellent leaf mulching

To perform a site survey, lay a 1.25 m plank (4 ft long 2 x 4) on the slope surface and measure the angle of the slope with the inclinometer provided with the machine. The plank (2 x 4) will average the slope but will not take into consideration dips or holes which can cause a sudden change in side hill angle. After completing the site survey, refer to .

Additionally, the machine is equipped with an angle indicator mounted on the steering tube. This indicates the side hill angle that the machine is on.

• Start the engine and run it at HALF IDLE until it warms up. Push the throttle lever all the way forward, lift the cutting units, disengage the parking brake, press the forward traction pedal, and carefully drive to an open area.

• Practice moving forward and reverse, and starting and stopping the machine. To stop the machine, remove your foot from the traction pedal and let it return to NEUTRAL or press down on the reverse pedal. When going downhill in the machine, you may need to use the reverse pedal to stop.

• Practice driving around obstacles with the cutting units up and down. Be careful when driving between narrow objects so that you do not damage the machine or cutting units.

• Always drive slowly in rough areas.

• If an obstacle is in the way, shift the cutting units to mow around it.

• When transporting the machine from 1 work area to another, raise the cutting units to the fully upward position, move the mow/transport slide to the left to transport, and place the throttle in the FAST position.

Change mowing patterns often to minimize a poor after-cut appearance from repeatedly mowing in the same direction.

The counterbalance system maintains hydraulic back pressure on the cutting unit lift cylinders. This pressure improves traction by transferring the cutting unit weight to the mower-drive wheels. The counterbalance pressure has been set at the factory to an optimal balance of after-cut appearance and traction capability in most turf conditions.

Decreasing the counterbalance setting can produce a more stable cutting unit, but can decrease the traction capability. Increasing the counterbalance setting can increase the traction capability, but may result in a poor after-cut appearance. Refer to the machine Service Manual for your traction unit for instructions to adjust the counterbalance pressure.

Refer to the After-cut Appearance Troubleshooting Guide available at www.Toro.com.

• To begin cutting, engage the cutting units, then approach the mowing area slowly. Once the front cutting units are over the mowing area, lower the cutting units.

• To achieve the professional straight-line cut and striping that is desirable for some applications, find a tree or other object in the distance and drive straight toward it.

• As soon as the front cutting units reach the edge of the mowing area, lift the cutting units, and perform a teardrop-shaped turn to quickly line up for your next pass.

• To mow around bunkers, ponds, or other contours easily, use the Sidewinder unit and move the control lever to the left or right, depending on your mowing application. You can also shift the cutting units to vary the tire tracking.

• The cutting units tend to throw grass to the left side of the machine. If you are trimming around bunkers, mow in a clockwise direction to prevent throwing clippings into the bunker.

• Bolt-in mulching baffles are available for the cutting units. The mulching baffles perform well when you maintain turf on a regular schedule to avoid removing more than 25 mm (1 inch) of growth per cutting. When you cut too much growth with the mulching baffles installed, the after-cut appearance may deteriorate and the observed power to cut the turf increases. The mulching baffles also perform well for shredding leaves in the fall.

Remove no more than approximately 25 mm (1 inch), or 1/3 of the grass blade when cutting. In exceptionally lush and dense grass, you may need to raise your height-of-cut setting.

A sharp blade cuts cleanly and without tearing or shredding the grass blades like a dull blade. Tearing and shredding causes the grass to turn brown at the edges, which impairs growth and increases susceptibility to diseases. Ensure that the blade is in good condition and that there is a full sail.

Ensure that the cutting chambers are in good condition. Straighten any bends in the chamber components to ensure correct blade tip/chamber clearance.

After mowing, thoroughly wash the machine with a garden hose with no nozzle to avoid contamination and damage to the seals and bearings caused by excessive water pressure. Ensure that the radiator and oil cooler are kept free of dirt or grass clippings. After cleaning, inspect the machine for possible hydraulic-fluid leaks, damage, or wear to the hydraulic and mechanical components, and check the cutting-unit blades for sharpness.

Important: After washing the machine, move the Sidewinder mechanism from left to right several times to remove the water between the bearing blocks and cross tube.

Check the air-cleaner body for damage which could cause an air leak. Replace a damaged air cleaner body.

Clean the air-cleaner cover (Figure 45).

Figure 45

1. Before removing the filter, use clean and dry, low-pressure air (275 kPa or 40 psi) to help remove large accumulations of debris packed between the outside of the primary filter and the canister.

   Important: Avoid using high-pressure air that could force dirt through the filter and into the intake tract, causing damage. This cleaning process prevents debris from migrating into the intake when you remove the primary filter.

2. Remove the primary filter (Figure 46).

   Important: Do not clean the used element to prevent the possibility of damaging the filter media. Inspect the new filter for shipping damage, checking the sealing end of the filter and the body. Do not use a damaged element.

   Important: Do not attempt to clean the safety filter. Replace the safety filter after every 3 primary-filter services (Figure 47).

   

   Figure 46

   1. Rubber outlet valve
   2. Air-cleaner latch
   3. Air cleaner primary filter
   4. Air-cleaner body
   5. Air-cleaner-restriction sending unit
   6. Rubber intake hose
   

   Figure 47

   1. Safety filter

3. Replace the primary filter (Figure 46).

4. Insert the new filter by applying pressure to the outer rim of the element to seat it in the canister.

   Note: Do not apply pressure to the flexible center of the filter.

5. Clean the dirt-ejection port located in the removable cover.

6. Remove the rubber outlet valve from the cover, clean the cavity, and replace the outlet valve.

7. Install the cover, orienting the rubber outlet valve in a downward position between the 5 o’clock to 7 o’clock positions when viewed from the end, and secure the latch (Figure 46).

The engine is shipped with oil in the crankcase; however, check the oil level before and after you start the engine for the first time.

The crankcase capacity is approximately 2.8 L (4 US qt) with the filter.

Use Toro Premium Engine Oil or another high-quality, low-ash engine oil that meets or exceeds the following specifications:

• API Classification Level Required: CH-4, CI-4, or higher.

• Preferred oil: SAE 15W-40 above -17º C (0º F)

• Alternate oil: SAE 10W-30 or 5W-30 (all temperatures)

Note: Toro Premium Engine Oil is available from your distributor in either 15W-40 or 10W-30 viscosity. Also, refer to the engine owner's manual (included with the machine) for further recommendations.

Note: The best time to check the engine oil is when the engine is cool before it has been started for the day. If you have already run the engine, allow the oil to drain back down to the sump for at least 10 minutes before checking. If the oil level is at or below the ADD mark on the dipstick, add oil to bring the oil level to the FULL mark. Do not overfill. If the oil level is between the FULL and ADD marks, you do not need to add oil.

Check the engine-oil level as shown in Figure 48.

Figure 48

1. Start the engine and let it run 5 minutes to allow the oil to warm up.

2. With the machine parked on a level surface, shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Change the engine oil as shown in Figure 49.

   

   Figure 49

4. Change the engine-oil filter as shown in Figure 50.

   

   Figure 50

1. Place a drain pan under the fuel filter.

2. Loosen the drain valve on the bottom of the filter (Figure 51).

   

   Figure 51

   1. Vent plug
   2. Water separator/filter
   3. Drain valve

3. Tighten the valve after draining.

1. Clean the area where the filter mounts (Figure 51).

2. Remove the filter and clean the mounting surface.

3. Lubricate the gasket on the filter with clean oil.

4. Install the filter by hand until the gasket contacts the mounting surface; then rotate an additional 1/2 turn.

1. Open the hood.

2. Apply 30 N (22 in-lb) of force to the alternator belt, midway between the pulleys (Figure 60).

   

   Figure 60

   1. Alternator belt

3. If the belt does not deflect 11 mm (7/16 inch), complete the following procedure to tension the belt:

   1. Loosen the bolt securing the brace to the engine and the bolt securing the alternator to the brace.

   2. Insert a pry bar between the alternator and engine, and pry out at the alternator.

   3. When you obtain the proper tension, tighten the alternator and brace bolts to secure the adjustment.

1. Insert a nut driver or small piece of tubing onto the end of the belt-tensioning spring.

   Caution

   The spring that tensions the belt is under a heavy load, and releasing the tension of the spring improperly may cause injury.

   Use care when de-tensioning the spring and replacing the belt.

2. Push down and forward on the spring end to unhook it from the bracket and release tension on the spring (Figure 61).

   

   Figure 61

   1. Spring end
   2. Hydrostat-drive belt

3. Replace the belt.

4. Reverse this procedure to tension the spring.

The reservoir is filled at the factory with high-quality hydraulic fluid. Check the level of the hydraulic fluid before you first start the engine and daily thereafter; refer to Checking the Hydraulic Fluid Level.

Recommended hydraulic fluid: Toro PX Extended Life Hydraulic Fluid; available in 19 L (5 US gallon) pails or 208 L (55 US gallon) drums.

Note: A machine using the recommended replacement fluid requires less frequent fluid and filter changes.

Alternative hydraulic fluids: If Toro PX Extended Life Hydraulic Fluid is not available, you may use another conventional, petroleum-based hydraulic fluid having specifications that fall within the listed range for all the following material properties and that it meets industry standards. Do not use synthetic fluid. Consult with your lubricant distributor to identify a satisfactory product.

Note: Toro does not assume responsibility for damage caused by improper substitutions, so use products only from reputable manufacturers who will stand behind their recommendation.

High Viscosity Index/Low Pour Point Anti-wear Hydraulic Fluid, ISO VG 46

Note: Many hydraulic fluids are almost colorless, making it difficult to spot leaks. A red dye additive for the hydraulic fluid is available in 20 ml (0.67 fl oz) bottles. A bottle is sufficient for 15 to 22 L (4 to 6 US gallons) of hydraulic fluid. Order Part No. 44-2500 from your authorized Toro distributor.

Important: Toro Premium Synthetic Biodegradable Hydraulic Fluid is the only synthetic biodegradable fluid approved by Toro. This fluid is compatible with the elastomers used in Toro hydraulic systems and is suitable for a wide-range of temperature conditions. This fluid is compatible with conventional mineral oils, but for maximum biodegradability and performance, the hydraulic system should be thoroughly flushed of conventional fluid. The oil is available in 19 L (5 US gallon) pails or 208 L (55 US gallon) drums from your authorized Toro distributor.

1. Perform the pre-maintenance procedure; refer to Preparing the Machine for Maintenance.

2. Clean the area around the filler neck and hydraulic-tank cap (Figure 63).

   

   Figure 63

   1. Hydraulic-tank cap

3. Remove the hydraulic-tank cap (Figure 63).

4. Remove the dipstick from the filler neck and wipe it with a clean rag.

5. Insert the dipstick into the filler neck, then remove it and check the fluid level.

   Note: The fluid level should be within 6 mm (1/4 inch) of the mark on the dipstick.

6. If the level is low, add the appropriate fluid to raise the level to the FULL mark.

7. Install the dipstick and cap onto the filler neck.

Hydraulic Fluid Capacity: 13.2 L (3.5 US gallons)

If the fluid becomes contaminated, contact your local Toro distributor to flush the system. Contaminated fluid looks milky or black.

1. Turn the engine off and raise the hood.

2. Disconnect the hydraulic line or remove the hydraulic filter and let the hydraulic fluid flow into a drain pan (Figure 66 and Figure 64).

   

   Figure 64

   1. Hydraulic line

3. Install the hydraulic line when the hydraulic fluid stops draining (Figure 64).

4. Fill the reservoir (Figure 65) with approximately 13.2 L (3.5 US gallons) of hydraulic fluid; refer to Hydraulic Fluid Specifications and Checking the Hydraulic Fluid Level.

   Important: Use only the hydraulic fluids specified. Other fluids could damage the system.

   

   Figure 65

   1. Hydraulic-tank cap

5. Install the reservoir cap.

6. Start the engine.

7. Use all the hydraulic controls to distribute the hydraulic fluid throughout the system, check for leaks, then shut off the engine.

8. Check the fluid level and add enough to raise the level to the FULL mark on the dipstick.

   Note: Do not overfill.

Use a genuine Toro replacement filter (Part No. 86-3010).

Important: Using any other filter may void the warranty on some components.

1. Perform the pre-maintenance procedure; refer to Preparing the Machine for Maintenance.

2. Pinch off the hose to the filter-mounting plate.

3. Clean around the filter-mounting area, place a drain pan under the filter, and remove the filter (Figure 66).

   

   Figure 66

   1. Hydraulic filter

4. Lubricate the new filter gasket and fill the filter with hydraulic fluid.

5. Ensure that the filter mounting area is clean and screw the filter on until the gasket contacts the mounting plate; then tighten the filter 1/2 turn.

6. Release the hose to the filter-mounting plate.

7. Start the engine and let it run for approximately 2 minutes to purge air from the system.

8. Shut off the engine and check for leaks.

Check the hydraulic lines and hoses for leaks, kinked lines, loose mounting supports, wear, loose fittings, weather deterioration, and chemical deterioration. Make all necessary repairs before operating the machine.

1. Remove the hydraulic motor from the cutting unit and remove the cutting unit from the traction unit.

   Note: Use a hoist (or a minimum of 2 people) and place the cutting unit on a flat table.

2. Mark an end of the blade with a paint pen or marker.

   Note: Use this end of the blade to check all heights.

3. Position the cutting edge of the marked end of the blade at the 12 o’clock position (straight ahead in the direction of mowing) and measure the height from the table to the cutting edge of the blade (Figure 69).

   

   Figure 69

4. Rotate the marked end of the blade to the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions and measure the heights (Figure 69).

5. Compare the 12 o’clock position measured height to the height-of-cut setting.

   Note: It should be within 0.7 mm (0.03 inch). The 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock heights should be 3.8 ± 2.2 mm (0.15 ± 0.09 inch) higher than the 12 o’clock setting and within 2.2 mm (0.09 inch) of each other.

If any of these measurements are not within specification, proceed to Adjusting the Blade Plane.

Start with the front adjustment (change 1 bracket at a time).

1. Remove the height-of-cut bracket (front, left, or right) from the cutting unit frame (Figure 70).

   

   Figure 70

   1. Height-of-cut bracket
   2. Shims

2. Adjust the 1.5 mm (0.06 inch) shims and/or 0.7 mm (0.03 inch) shim between the cutting unit frame and bracket to achieve the desired height of cut (Figure 70).

3. Install the height-of-cut bracket to the cutting unit frame with the remaining shims assembled below the height-of-cut bracket (Figure 70).

4. Secure the socket-head bolt and spacer and flange nut.

   Note: The socket-head bolt and spacer are held together with thread-locking compound to prevent the spacer from falling inside the cutting unit frame.

5. Verify the 12 o’clock position setting and adjust if needed.

6. Determine if you need to adjust only 1 or both (right and left side) height-of-cut brackets.

   Note: If the 3 o’clock or 9 o’clock side is 1.6 to 6.0 mm (0.06 to 0.24 inch) higher than the new front height, then you do not need to adjust for that side. Adjust the other side to within ± 2.2 mm (0.09 inch) of the correct side.

7. Adjust the right and/or left height-of-cut brackets by repeating steps 1 through 3.

8. Secure the carriage bolts and flange nuts.

9. Verify the 12, 3, and 9 o’clock heights.

1. Remove the roller-mounting bolt (Figure 71).

   

   Figure 71

   1. Bearing
   2. Mounting bolt
   3. Front roller
   4. Bearing spacer

2. Insert a punch through the end of the roller housing and drive the opposite bearing out by alternating taps to the opposite side of inner-bearing race.

   Note: There should be a 1.5 mm (0.06 inch) lip of inner race exposed.

3. Push the second bearing out in the press.

4. Inspect the roller housing, bearings, and bearing spacer for damage (Figure 71).

   Note: Replace damaged components and assemble the front roller.

1. Pressing on the outer race only or equally on the inner and outer race, press the first bearing into the roller housing (Figure 71).

   Note: Press on the outer race only or equally on the inner and outer race.

2. Insert the spacer (Figure 71).

3. Pressing on outer race only or equally on the inner and outer race, press the second bearing into the roller housing until it contacts the spacer (Figure 71).

4. Install the roller assembly into the cutting unit frame.

   Important: Securing the roller assembly with a gap larger than 1.5 mm (0.06 inch) creates a side load on the bearing and can lead to premature bearing failure.

5. Verify that there is no more than a 1.5 mm (0.06 inch) gap between the roller assembly and the roller-mount brackets of the cutting unit frame.

   Note: If there is a gap over 1.5 mm (0.06 inch), install enough 5/8-inch diameter washers to take up the slop.

6. Torque the mounting bolt to 108 N∙m (80 ft-lb).

Replace the blade if it hits a solid object, is out of balance, or is bent. Always use genuine Toro replacement blades to ensure safety and optimum performance.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, raise the cutting unit to the transport position, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

   Note: Block or lock the cutting unit to prevent it from accidentally falling.

2. Grasp the end of the blade using a rag or thickly-padded glove.

3. Remove the blade bolt, anti-scalp cup, and blade from the spindle shaft (Figure 72).

   

   Figure 72

   1. Blade bolt
   2. Anti-scalp cup

4. Install the blade, anti-scalp cup, and blade bolt and tighten the blade bolt to 115 to 149 N∙m (85 to 110 ft-lb).

   Important: The curved part of the blade must be pointing toward the inside of the cutting unit to ensure proper cutting.

   Note: After striking a foreign object, torque all spindle-pulley nuts to 115 to 149 N∙m (85 to 110 ft-lb).

Note: Check the blade before using the machine. Sand and abrasive material can wear away the metal that connects the flat and curved parts of the blade. If you notice wear, replace the blade; refer to Inspecting and Sharpening the Blade.

1. Perform the pre-maintenance procedure; refer to Preparing the Machine for Maintenance.

2. Block the cutting unit to prevent it from falling accidentally.

3. Examine the cutting ends of the blade carefully, especially where the flat and curved parts of the blade meet (Figure 73).

   

   Figure 73

   1. Cutting edge
   2. Sail
   3. Damaged area (wear, slot, or crack)

4. Inspect the cutting edges of all the blades. Sharpen the cutting edges if they are dull or nicked, sharpen only the top of the cutting edge, and maintain the original cutting angle to ensure sharpness (Figure 74).

   Note: The blade remains balanced if the same amount of metal is removed from both cutting edges.

   

   Figure 74

   1. Sharpen the blade at this angle only.

5. Lay the blade on a level surface and check its ends to ensure that the blade is straight and parallel.

   Note: Position the ends of the blade slightly lower than the center, and the cutting edge lower than the heel of the blade. This blade produces a good quality of cut and requires minimal power from the engine. By contrast a blade that is higher at the ends than the center, or if cutting edge is higher than the heel, the blade is bent or warped and must be replaced.

   

   Figure 75

   1. Cutting edge
   2. Heel

   Note: The blade ends must be slightly lower than the center, and the cutting edge must be lower than the heel of the blade. These characteristics produce a good quality of cut and require less power from the engine.

   Note: If the blade ends are higher than the center, or if the blade cutting edges are higher than the heel, replace the blade. These characteristics indicate that the blade is bent or warped.

6. Use the anti-scalp cup and blade bolt to install the blade with the sail facing toward the cutting unit.

7. Tighten the blade bolt to 115 to 149 N∙m (85 to 110 ft-lb).

The cutting unit blades should stop within 7 seconds after you shut off the cutting units.

Note: Ensure that the cutting units are lowered onto a clean section of turf or hard surface to avoid thrown dust and debris.

To verify the stopping time, have an assistant stand at least 6 m (20 ft) away from the cutting unit and watch the blades on 1 of the cutting units. Shut off the cutting units and record the time that it takes for the blades to come to a complete stop. If the time is longer than 7 seconds, the braking valve needs adjustment; contact your authorized Toro distributor for assistance in making this adjustment.