Sand Pro® 3040 and 5040 Traction Units

• Fuel-tank capacity: 25 L (5-1/2 US gallons).

• Recommended fuel:

  • For best results, use only clean, fresh (less than 30 days old), unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 87 or higher ((R+M)/2 rating method).

  • Ethanol: Gasoline with up to 10% ethanol (gasohol) or 15% MTBE (methyl tertiary butyl ether) by volume is acceptable. Ethanol and MTBE are not the same. Gasoline with 15% ethanol (E15) by volume is not approved for use. Never use gasoline that contains more than 10% ethanol by volume, such as E15 (contains 15% ethanol), E20 (contains 20% ethanol), or E85 (contains up to 85% ethanol). Using unapproved gasoline may cause performance problems and/or engine damage which may not be covered under warranty.

  • Do not use gasoline containing methanol.

  • Do not store fuel either in the fuel tank or fuel containers over the winter unless a fuel stabilizer is used.

  • Do not add oil to gasoline.

  Important: Do not use fuel additives other than a fuel stabilizer/conditioner. Do not use fuel stabilizers with an alcohol base such as ethanol, methanol, or isopropanol.

1. Clean the area around the fuel-tank cap (Figure 15).

2. Remove the fuel-tank cap.

3. Fill the tank to about 25 mm (1 inch) below the top of the tank (bottom of the filler neck). Do not overfill.

   

   Figure 15

   1. Fuel-tank cap

4. Install the cap.

5. Wipe up any fuel that may have spilled to prevent a fire hazard.

   Important: Never use methanol, gasoline containing methanol, or gasohol containing more than 10% ethanol because the fuel system could be damaged. Do not mix oil with gasoline.

Perform the following daily procedures before operating the machine:

• Checking the Interlock System

• Checking the Engine-Oil Level

• Checking the Tire Pressure

• Checking the Hydraulic Lines and Hoses

• Checking the Hydraulic-Fluid Level

• Ensure that the temperature is greater than -6.7°C (20°F) before operating the machine or the main traction pump may be damaged.

The purpose of the interlock system is to prevent the engine from cranking or starting unless the traction pedal is in the NEUTRAL position. Also, the engine should shut off if the traction pedal is moved either forward or reverse without an operator in the seat.

Important: If the traction unit has either the rear remote hydraulic kit Model 08781 or hydraulic switch kit Model 08783 installed, there are additional interlock conditions:The machine does not start when the remote hydraulic switch is turned ON.If the machine is running with the hydraulic switch turned ON, the machine shuts off when the operator leaves the seat.

1. Position the machine in a wide-open area free of debris and bystanders. Shut off the engine.

2. Sit on the seat and engage the parking brake.

3. Press the traction pedal in forward and reverse while trying to start the engine.

   Note: If the engine cranks, there may be a malfunction in the interlock system. Repair it immediately.If the engine does not crank, the system is operating correctly.

4. Stay seated on the seat, with the traction pedal in the NEUTRAL position and the parking brake engaged, and start the engine.

5. Rise off the seat and slowly press the traction pedal.

   Note: The engine should shut off in 1 to 3 seconds. Correct the problem if the system does not operate properly.

1. Remove your foot from the traction pedal, ensure that the pedal is in the NEUTRAL position, and engage the parking brake.

2. Push the choke lever forward to the ON position (when starting a cold engine) and the throttle lever to the SLOW position.

   Important: When operating the machine in temperatures less than 0°C (32°F) allow the machine time to warm up before using it. This prevents damage to the hydrostat and the traction loop.Do not operate the machine in temperatures less than -6.7°C (20°F) or the main traction pump may be damaged.

3. Insert the key into the ignition switch and rotate it clockwise to start the engine. Release the key when the engine starts.

   Note: Regulate the choke to keep the engine running smoothly.

   Important: To prevent overheating the starter motor, do not engage the starter longer than 10 seconds. After 10 seconds of continuous cranking, wait 60 seconds before engaging the starter motor again.

4. To shut off the engine, move the throttle control to the SLOW position and rotate the ignition key to OFF.

   Note: Remove the key from the switch to prevent accidental starting.

5. Close the fuel-shutoff valve before storing the machine.

   Caution

   Inspecting the machine while the engine is running could result in injury.

   Shut the engine off and wait for all moving parts to stop before checking for oil leaks, loose parts, and other malfunctions.

New engines take time to develop full power. Drive systems have more friction when they are new, placing additional load on the engine.

Allow the first 8 hours of operating time for the break-in period.

Since the first hours of operation are critical to future dependability of the machine, monitor the functions and performance closely so that you can notice and correct minor difficulties, which could lead to major problems. Inspect the machine frequently during the break-in period, for signs of oil leakage, loose fasteners, or any other malfunction.

Refer to the attachment Operator's Manual for specific operating instructions for the attachment.

Practice driving the machine, because its operating characteristics are different than some utility vehicles. 2 points to consider when operating the vehicle are transmission speed and engine speed.

To maintain constant engine speed, press the traction pedal slowly. This allows the engine to keep up with the ground speed of the vehicle. By contrast, pushing down quickly on the traction pedal reduces the engine speed; as a result, there will not be enough torque-power to move the vehicle. Therefore, to transfer maximum power to the wheels, move the throttle to FAST and slightly press the traction pedal. By comparison, maximum ground speed with no load results when the throttle is in the FAST position and the traction pedal is slowly but fully pressed. Always keep the engine speed high enough to deliver maximum torque-power to the wheels.

Note: If the attachment adapter becomes stuck to the traction unit adapter, insert a pry bar or a screwdriver into the pry slot to disengage the parts (Figure 16).

Figure 16

1. Pry slot

In case of emergency, you can tow the machine for a short distance. However, we do not recommend this as a standard procedure.

Important: Do not tow the machine faster than 1.6 km/h (1 mph), because drive system damage may occur. If you must move the machine more than 50 m (55 yd), transport it on a truck or a trailer. The tires may lock up if you tow the machine too fast. If this occurs, stop towing the machine and wait for the traction circuit pressure to stabilize before resuming towing at a slower speed.

• Use full-width ramps for loading the machine onto a trailer or truck.

• Tie the machine down securely.

The jacking points are as follows:

• Left or right side—under the rear wheel motor or the frame (Figure 17).

  

  Figure 17

  1. Rear jacking points

• Front—under the frame behind the front wheel (Figure 18).

  

  Figure 18

  1. Front jacking points

Lubricate the grease fittings with No. 2 lithium grease.

1. Wipe the grease fitting clean so that foreign matter cannot be forced into the bearing or bushing.

2. Pump grease into the bearing or bushing.

3. Wipe up excess grease.

4. Lubricate the following bearings and bushings:

   • 1 Front wheel bearing (Figure 19).

     

     Figure 19

   • 1 Traction-pedal pivot bearing (Figure 20).

     

     Figure 20

   • 5 Rear hitch bearings (Figure 21).

     

     Figure 21

     Left side and center grease fittings shown

   • 1 Steering pivot bearing (Figure 22).

     Note: The flush fitting on the steering pivot requires a grease gun nozzle adapter. Order Toro Part No. 107-1998 from your authorized Toro distributor.

     

     Figure 22

   • 1 Steering cylinder rod end bearing—Model 08705 only (Figure 23).

     

     Figure 23

Use high-quality engine oil that meets the following specifications:

API classification level: SJ or higher

Oil Viscosity: SAE 30—above 4°C (40°F)

The engine is shipped with oil in the crankcase; however, you must check the oil level before and after you first start the engine.

Note: Check the oil when the engine is cold.

Important: If you overfill or underfill the engine crankcase with oil and run the engine, you may damage the engine.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

2. Pivot the seat forward.

3. To keep dirt, grass clippings, etc., out of the engine, clean the area around the oil-fill cap and dipstick before removing it (Figure 24).

4. Pull out the dipstick (Figure 24) and wipe it with a clean rag.

   

   Figure 24

   1. Dipstick
   2. Oil-fill cap

5. Insert the dipstick into the tube and make sure that it is fully seated. Remove the dipstick from the tube and check the oil level. If the oil level is low, remove the filler cap from the valve cover and add enough of the specified oil to raise the level to the Full mark on the dipstick (Figure 25).

   Important: Be sure to keep the oil level between the upper and lower mark on the dipstick. If you overfill or underfill the engine oil, you may damage engine when running it.

   

   Figure 25

6. Install the dipstick firmly in place.

   Important: You must fully seat the dipstick in the tube to proper seal the engine crankcase. Failure to seal the crankcase may result in engine damage.

7. Pivot the seat down.

Crankcase oil capacity: approximately 1.66 L (1-3/4 US qt) with the filter.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, shut off the engine, engage the parking brake, and remove the key.

2. Remove the drain plug (Figure 26) and let the oil flow into a drain pan. When the oil stops, install the drain plug.

   

   Figure 26

   1. Drain plug
   2. Oil filter

3. Remove the oil filter (Figure 26).

4. Apply a light coat of clean oil to the new filter gasket.

5. Thread the filter on by hand until the gasket contacts the filter adapter; then tighten 1/2 to 3/4 turn further.

   Important: Do not overtighten the filter.

6. Add the specified oil to the crankcase; refer to Engine Oil Specification.

7. Dispose of the used oil properly.

• Check the body of the air cleaner for damage that could cause an air leak. Replace any damaged components. Check the whole intake system for leaks, damage, or loose hose clamps.

• Do not change the air filter before it is necessary; doing so only increases the chance of dirt entering the engine when you remove the filter.

• Be sure that the cover is seated correctly and seals with the body of the air cleaner.

Type: Champion RC14YC (or equivalent)

Air Gap: 0.76 mm (0.030 inch)

Note: The spark plugs usually last a long time; however, you should remove and check them whenever the engine malfunctions.

1. Clean the area around each spark plug so that foreign matter cannot fall into the cylinder when the spark plug is removed.

2. Pull the spark-plug wires off the spark plugs and remove the plugs from the cylinder head.

3. Check the condition of the side electrode, center electrode, and the insulator to ensure that there is no damage.

   Important: Replace a cracked, fouled, dirty, or otherwise malfunctioning spark plug. Do not sand-blast, scrape, or clean the electrodes using a wire brush because grit may eventually release from the plug, fall into the cylinder, and damaged the engine.

4. Set the air gap between the center electrode and side electrodes to 0.76 mm (0.030 inch); refer to Figure 28. Install the correctly gapped spark plug with the gasket seal, and tighten the plug to 23 N∙m (200 in-lb). If a torque wrench is not used, tighten the plug firmly.

   

   Figure 28

An in-line filter is incorporated into the fuel line. Use the following procedures when replacement becomes necessary:

1. Close the fuel-shutoff valve, loosen the hose clamp on the carburetor side of the filter, and remove the fuel line from the filter (Figure 29).

   

   Figure 29

   1. Fuel filter
   2. Hose clamps

2. Place a drain pan under the filter, loosen the remaining hose clamp, and remove the filter.

3. Install the new filter with the arrow on the filter body pointing away from the fuel tank (toward the carburetor).

4. Slide the hose clamps onto the ends of the fuel lines.

5. Push the fuel lines onto the fuel filter and secure them with the hose clamps.

   Note: Be sure that the arrow on the side of the filter points toward the carburetor.

1. Raise the right rear tire off the ground, and support the machine with jack stands.

2. Remove the 4 wheel nuts that secure the wheel to the hub, and remove the wheel and tire (Figure 30).

   

   Figure 30

   1. Stud (wheel hub)
   2. Tire and Wheel
   3. Wheel nuts

3. Remove the 4 flange capscrews (1/4 x 5/8 inch) that secure the wheel shroud to the frame of the machine (Figure 31).

   

   Figure 31

   1. Flange capscrews (1/4 x 5/8 inch)
   2. Wheel shroud

4. Reaching around the lower, inboard edge of the console, pull the carbon-canister filter rearward and out of the hose at the end of the carbon canister (Figure 32).

   

   Figure 32

   1. Console
   2. Carbon-canister filter
   3. Hose
   4. Carbon canister

5. Insert a new carbon-canister filter into the hose at the end of the carbon canister (Figure 32).

6. Align the holes in the wheel shroud with the frame of the machine (Figure 31), and secure the shroud to the frame with 4 flange capscrews (1/4 x 5/8 inch) that you removed in step 3.

7. Assemble the tire and wheel into the studs of the wheel hub (Figure 30) with the 4 wheel nuts that you removed in step 2, and tighten the nuts by hand.

8. Remove the jack stand and lower the machine to the ground.

9. Torque the wheel nuts; refer to Torquing the Wheel Lug Nuts.

If you need to jump-start the machine, you can use the alternative positive post (located on the starter solenoid) instead of the positive battery post (Figure 33).

Figure 33

1. Alternative positive battery post

The fuse block (Figure 34) is located under the seat.

Figure 34

1. Fuse block

Maintain the proper battery electrolyte level and keep the top of the battery clean. If the machine is stored in a location where temperatures are extremely high, the battery runs down more rapidly than if the machine is stored in a location where temperatures are cool.

Keep the top of the battery clean by washing it periodically with a brush dipped in ammonia or baking-soda solution. Flush the top surface with water after cleaning. Do not remove the fill cap while cleaning.

The battery cables must be tight on the terminals to provide good electrical contact.

If corrosion occurs at the battery terminals, disconnect the cables, negative (-) cable first, and scrape the clamps and terminals separately. Connect the cables, positive (+) cable first, and coat the terminals with petroleum jelly.

• Check the electrolyte level every 25 operating hours, or if the machine is in storage, every 30 days.

• Maintain the cell level with distilled or demineralized water. Do not fill the cells above the fill line.

Check the tire pressure before operating the machine (Figure 35). The correct air pressure in the front and rear tires is as follows:

• Treaded tires: 70 kPa (10 psi)

  Note: If additional traction is required for blade operation, reduce the pressure to 55 kPa (8 psi).

• Smooth tires: 55 to 70 kPa (8 to 10 psi)

Figure 35

1. Valve stem
2. Lug nut

Torque the lugs nuts to 95 to 122 N∙m (70 to 90 ft-lb).

Adjust the detent plate of the lift lever (Figure 38) if the attachment does not float properly (follow ground contour) during operation.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, shut off the engine, engage the parking brake, and block the wheels.

2. Remove the 4 screws securing the control panel to the frame (Figure 37).

   

   Figure 37

   1. Control panel
   2. Screws

3. Loosen the 2 bolts securing the detent plate to the fender and the frame.

   

   Figure 38

   1. Detent plate
   2. Mounting bolts

   Warning

   The engine must be running so that you can adjust the detent plate. Contact with moving parts or hot surfaces may cause personal injury.

   Keep your hands, feet, face, and other body parts away from rotating parts, the muffler, and other hot surfaces.

4. Start the engine.

5. With the engine running and the lift lever in the FLOAT position, slide the detent plate until the lift cylinder can be extended and retracted by hand.

6. Tighten both mounting screws to secure the adjustment.

Check the hydraulic lines and hoses daily for leaks, kinked lines, loose mounting supports, wear, loose fittings, weather deterioration, and chemical deterioration. Make all necessary repairs before operating.

The reservoir is filled at the factory with high-quality hydraulic fluid. Check the level of the hydraulic fluid before you first start the engine and daily thereafter; refer to Checking the Hydraulic-Fluid Level.

Recommended hydraulic fluid: Toro PX Extended Life Hydraulic Fluid; available in 19 L (5 US gallon) pails or 208 L (55 US gallon) drums.

Note: A machine using the recommended replacement fluid requires less frequent fluid and filter changes.

Alternative hydraulic fluids: If Toro PX Extended Life Hydraulic Fluid is not available, you may use another conventional, petroleum-based hydraulic fluid having specifications that fall within the listed range for all the following material properties and that it meets industry standards. Do not use synthetic fluid. Consult with your lubricant distributor to identify a satisfactory product.

Note: Toro does not assume responsibility for damage caused by improper substitutions, so use products only from reputable manufacturers who will stand behind their recommendation.

High Viscosity Index/Low Pour Point Anti-wear Hydraulic Fluid, ISO VG 46

Note: Many hydraulic fluids are almost colorless, making it difficult to spot leaks. A red dye additive for the hydraulic fluid is available in 20 ml (0.67 fl oz) bottles. A bottle is sufficient for 15 to 22 L (4 to 6 US gallons) of hydraulic fluid. Order Part No. 44-2500 from your authorized Toro distributor.

Important: Toro Premium Synthetic Biodegradable Hydraulic Fluid is the only synthetic biodegradable fluid approved by Toro. This fluid is compatible with the elastomers used in Toro hydraulic systems and is suitable for a wide-range of temperature conditions. This fluid is compatible with conventional mineral oils, but for maximum biodegradability and performance, the hydraulic system should be thoroughly flushed of conventional fluid. The oil is available in 19 L (5 US gallon) pails or 208 L (55 US gallon) drums from your authorized Toro distributor.

The reservoir is filled at the factory with the recommended hydraulic fluid. The best time to check the hydraulic fluid is when it is cold.

1. Fully raise all hydraulic attachment to the transport position.

2. Park the machine on a level surface, shut off the engine, engage the parking brake, and remove the key.

3. Clean the area around the hydraulic-reservoir cap to prevent debris from entering the tank (Figure 39).

   

   Figure 39

   1. Hydraulic-reservoir cap

4. Remove the cap from the reservoir.

5. Remove the dipstick from the filler neck and wipe it with a clean rag.

6. Insert the dipstick into the filler neck; then remove it and check the level of the fluid (Figure 40).

   When the reservoir is properly filled with hydraulic fluid, you should see the fluid level between the upper and lower marks (necked-down area) on the dipstick.

   Important: If the fluid level is between the upper and lower marks, no fluid addition is required.

   

   Figure 40

   1. Upper limit
   2. Lower limit

7. If the fluid level is too low, slowly add the specified hydraulic fluid to the reservoir until the fluid level reaches the necked-down area on the dipstick.

   Important: To prevent system contamination, clean the surface of the of hydraulic-fluid containers before opening them. Ensure that the pour spout and the funnel are clean.

   Important: Do not overfill the reservoir with hydraulic fluid.

8. Install the reservoir cap.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, shut off the engine, engage the parking brake, and remove the key.

2. Loosen the 2 screws securing the center shroud to the machine and remove the shroud (Figure 41).

   

   Figure 41

   1. Center shroud

3. Lubricate the sealing gasket on the replacement filter with clean hydraulic fluid.

4. Place a drain pan under the hydraulic filter, which is located at the left side of the machine (Figure 42).

   

   Figure 42

   1. Hydraulic filter

5. Clean the area around the filter mounting area.

   Note: Have the replacement filter within reach before removing the old filter.

6. Remove the hydraulic filter from the filter head.

7. Install the new hydraulic filter (Figure 42) by turning it on by hand until the gasket contacts the filter head, then tighten the filter 3/4 turn further.

8. Check the hydraulic fluid level and add the specified hydraulic fluid as needed; refer to Checking the Hydraulic-Fluid Level

9. Install the center shroud.

Reservoir capacity: 26.5 L (7.0 US gallons)

Use a genuine Toro filter for replacement; refer to the Parts Catalog for your machine.

1. Remove the cap from the hydraulic reservoir (Figure 43).

   

   Figure 43

   1. Cap
   2. Pump
   3. Hydraulic reservoir
   4. Waste hydraulic-fluid container—30 L (8 US Gallon) or greater

2. Pump the hydraulic fluid from hydraulic reservoir (Figure 43).

3. Fill the hydraulic reservoir with the specified hydraulic fluid until the level is up to the necked-down area of the dipstick; refer to Checking the Hydraulic-Fluid Level.

   Important: Do not overfill the tank with hydraulic fluid.

4. Start and run the engine. Operate the lift cylinder until it extends and retracts and forward and reverse wheel motion is achieved.

5. Shut off the engine and check the hydraulic-fluid level in the reservoir; add fluid if necessary.

6. Check for leaks.

   Repair any hydraulic leaks.

7. Install the center shroud.

1. Thoroughly wash the machine with a garden hose—without a nozzle—so that excessive water pressure does not cause contamination and damage to the seals and bearings.

   Make sure that the cooling fins and the area around the cooling-air intake are kept free of debris.

   Important: Cleaning the oil cooler with water promotes premature corrosion and damage to components, and compacts debris; refer to Cleaning the Oil Cooler.

2. Inspect the machine for possible hydraulic-fluid leaks, damage, or wear to hydraulic and mechanical components.

1. Remove the lower shield (Figure 44).

   

   Figure 44

   1. Shield
   2. Oil cooler

2. Using a wand, blow compressed air in between the fan blades (Figure 44) to force material out from the direction that it entered.

3. Install the shield.