Workman® GTX Electric Utility Vehicle with Extended Chassis

The machine contains 8 deep-cycle, lead-acid batteries that supply power to the motor and accessories. A deep-cycle battery is not the same as an automobile battery. An automobile battery is designed to provide a surge of power to start the machine and moderate power to run the lights and accessories when the motor if off or idling. The alternator then continuously charges as the automobile runs. As such, an automobile battery seldom drops below 90% of the maximum charge level.

A deep-cycle battery is designed to be a primary power source to provide a sustained output. Deep-cycle batteries are typically discharged as low as 20 to 30% of the maximum charge level. A discharge this low is considered a deep discharge.

Important: Repeated deep-discharge cycles reduces the battery life.

Lead-acid batteries produce electricity through a chemical reaction between lead plates and sulfuric acid. Charging a battery reverses the chemical reaction, allowing the battery to once again produce electricity.

A battery is a perishable item that has a limited lifetime (Figure 10). When a battery is new, it requires a break-in period to establish efficient electrical production. This break in period usually requires 100 to 150 discharge/charge cycles.

Figure 10

Battery-Lifetime Table

1. Battery capacity
2. Discharge/charge cycles
3. Break-in period (100 to 150 cycles)
4. Prime battery life
5. End of the battery life

After the break-in period, the battery maintains a high capacity for many cycles. The number of cycles that a battery performs depends on the following:

• Battery maintenance—improper maintenance severely reduces the life of the batteries.

• Depth of discharge between charge cycles—the deeper the batteries are discharged on a regular basis between charges, the shorter the service life the batteries will have.

• Charge frequency—fully charge the batteries whenever possible.

  Important: Fully discharging the batteries damages them and reduces their life.

• Low water levels—if the lead plates become exposed, it may permanently damage the batteries. Perform the following to maintain the electrolyte level:

  After fully charging the batteries, fill the batteries with distilled or deionized water; refer to Checking the Water Level of the Batteries and Adding Distilled or Deionized Water to the Batteries.

  Important: Fully charge the batteries before adding the water to the batteries. While charging, the electrolyte increases in volume, and filling a low battery before fully charging the batteries can cause the electrolyte to overflow and leak out of the vent.

At the end of the battery life, the batteries gradually lose electric capacity.

When your batteries are fully charged, the tenth bar (far right) illuminates on the battery-discharge indicator (Figure 11).

Figure 11

1. Battery-discharge indicator
2. Charge-indicator bars

As you use the machine, the bars disappear as the electrical capacity of the batteries is used.

When only the second bar from the left remains on the battery-discharge indicator, it is a good time to charge (Figure 12).

Figure 12

1. The 2 left bars alternately blink until you charge the batteries.

If you continue to use the machine with only 2 bars remaining, bars 1 and 2 alternately flash.

Important: When only the second bar from the left remains on the battery-discharge indicator, the machine may enter a reduced-speed mode; this mode aids in protecting the batteries, but prolonged operation in this mode can damage the batteries and/or the machine. Avoid draining your batteries down to the second bar from the left to prevent this issue. Charge the batteries immediately.If the batteries become fully discharged, the machine shuts down. Do not allow the batteries to become fully discharged.

Important: To obtain maximum battery life, always charge the batteries before the charge reaches the second bar from the left on the screen. Regularly depleting the batteries to lower than the second bar from the left reduces the life of the batteries.

1. Pull the lever on left, inside of the cargo bed toward you and lift the cargo bed up (Figure 13).

   

   Figure 13

   1. Cargo-bed lever

2. Pull the prop rod into the dump position detent slot to secure the bed for dumping (Figure 14).

   

   Figure 14

   1. Service position detent slot
   2. Prop rod
   3. Dump position detent slot

1. Pull the lever on left, inside of the cargo bed toward you and lift the cargo bed up (Figure 13).

2. Pull prop rod into the service position detent slot to secure the bed for maintenance (Figure 14).

1. Raise the cargo bed slightly by lifting up on the latch lever (Figure 13).

2. Pull the prop rod out of the detent slot (Figure 14).

3. Lower the bed until it latches securely.

1. Ensure that the cargo bed is down and latched.

2. Using both hands, raise the tailgate using the ridge near the top of the tailgate (Figure 15).

3. Lower the tailgate until it is flush with the bottom of the cargo bed (Figure 15).

   

   Figure 15

If you unloaded loose material such as sand, landscaping rock, or wood chips from the cargo bed of the machine, some of the material that you unloaded may have lodged in the hinge area of the tailgate. Perform the following steps before closing the tailgate.

1. Use your hands to remove as much of the material from the hinge area as possible.

2. Rotate the tailgate to approximately the 45° position (Figure 16).

   

   Figure 16

   1. Rotate the tailgate back and forth several times.
   2. Rotate the tailgate to approximately the 45° position.
   3. Hinge area

3. Use a short, shaking motion to rotate the tailgate back and forth several times (Figure 16).

   Note: This action helps move material away from the hinge area.

4. Lower the tailgate and check for material remaining in the hinge area.

5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 until the material is removed from the hinge area.

6. Rotate the tailgate up and lift the tailgate into the notches in the cargo bed.

1. Lift up the handle of the rubber latches on each side of the hood (Figure 23).

   

   Figure 23

2. Raise the hood.

1. Gently lower the hood.

2. Secure the hood by aligning the rubber latches onto the latch anchors on each side of the hood (Figure 23).

1. Lift the front of the machine and support it with jack stands.

2. Remove the 4 lug nuts that secure the wheel to the hub (Figure 29).

   

   Figure 29

   1. Hub
   2. Wheel
   3. Lug nut

3. Remove the flange-head bolts (3/8 x 3/4 inch) that secure the bracket for the brake assembly to the spindle and separate the brake from the spindle (Figure 30).

   Note: Support the brake assembly before proceeding to the next step.

   

   Figure 30

   1. Flange-head bolts (3/8 x 3/4 inch)
   2. Spindle
   3. Caliper bracket (brake assembly)

4. Remove the dust cap from the hub (Figure 31).

   

   Figure 31

   1. Cotter pin
   2. Spindle
   3. Tab washer
   4. Spindle nut
   5. Nut retainer
   6. Dust cap

5. Remove the cotter pin and nut retainer from the spindle and spindle nut (Figure 31).

6. Remove the spindle nut from the spindle, and separate the hub and rotor assembly from the spindle (Figure 31 and Figure 32).

   

   Figure 32

   1. Spindle
   2. Hub and rotor assembly

7. Wipe clean the spindle with a rag.

8. Repeat steps 1 through 7 to the hub and rotor at the other side of the machine.

1. Remove the outboard bearing and bearing race from the hub (Figure 33).

   

   Figure 33

   1. Seal
   2. Inboard bearing
   3. Inboard-bearing race
   4. Bearing cavity (hub)
   5. Outboard-bearing race
   6. Outboard bearing

2. Remove the seal, inboard bearing from the hub (Figure 33).

3. Wipe clean the seal and check for wear and damage.

   Note: Do not use cleaning solvent to clean the seal. Replace the seal if it is worn or damaged.

4. Clean the bearings and races, and check these parts for wear and damage.

   Note: Replace all worn or damaged parts. Ensure that the bearings and races are clean and dry.

5. Clean the cavity of the hub of all grease, dirt, and debris (Figure 33).

6. Pack the bearings with the specified grease.

7. Fill the cavity of hub 50 to 80% full of the specified grease (Figure 33).

8. Assemble the inboard bearing onto the race at the inboard side of the hub and install the seal (Figure 33).

9. Repeat steps 1 through 8 to the bearings for the other hub.

1. Apply a light coat of the specified grease to the spindle (Figure 34).

   

   Figure 34

   1. Nut retainer
   2. Spindle nut
   3. Tab washer
   4. Outer bearing
   5. Hub, rotor, inner bearing, race, and seal
   6. Spindle

2. Assemble the hub and rotor onto the spindle with the rotor inboard (Figure 34).

3. Assemble the outboard bearing onto the spindle and seat the bearing to the outboard race (Figure 34).

4. Assemble the tab washer onto the spindle (Figure 34).

5. Thread the spindle nut onto the spindle and tighten the nut to 15 N∙m (11 ft-lb), while rotating the hub to seat the bearing (Figure 34).

6. Loosen the spindle nut until the hub rotates freely.

7. Torque the spindle nut to 170 to 225 N∙cm (15 to 20 in-lb).

8. Install the retainer over the nut and check the alignment of the slot in the retainer and the hole in the spindle for the cotter pin (Figure 35).

   Note: If the slot in the retainer and the hole in the spindle are not aligned, tighten the spindle nut to align the slot and hole to a maximum torque of 226 N∙cm (20 in-lb) on the nut.

   

   Figure 35

   1. Cotter pin
   2. Nut retainer
   3. Dust cap

9. Install the cotter pin and bend each legs around the retainer (Figure 35).

10. Install the dust cap onto the hub (Figure 35).

11. Repeat steps 1 through 10 for the hub and rotor at the other side of the machine.

1. Clean the 2 flange-head bolts (3/8 x 3/4 inch) and apply a coat of medium-strength thread-locking compound to the threads of the bolts.

2. Align the brake pads to either side of the rotor (Figure 30) and the holes in the caliper bracket with the holes in the brake mount of the spindle frame (Figure 34).

3. Secure the caliper bracket to the spindle frame (Figure 30) using the 2 flange-head bolts (3/8 x 3/4 inch).

   Torque the 2 flange-head bolts to 47 to 54 N∙m (35 to 40 ft-lb).

4. Align the holes in the wheel to the studs of the hub and assemble the wheel to the hub with the valve stem outward (Figure 29).

   Note: Ensure that the mounting surface of the wheel is flush with the hub.

5. Secure the wheel to the hub using the lug nuts (Figure 29).

   Torque the lug nuts to 108 to 122 N∙m (80 to 90 ft-lb).

6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 for the brake and wheel on the other side of the machine.

1. Ensure that all the battery caps are tight.

2. Use a paper towel to clean the batteries.

3. If the battery terminals are corroded, clean them with a solution of 4 parts water and 1 part baking soda. Also, clean the posts and cable clamps with a post and clamp cleaner.

   Note: The posts and clamps should have a bright, metallic shine.

4. Apply a light coating of Toro battery-terminal protector.

The charger for this machine is located inside the machine under the operator’s seat. For maximum battery life, charge the batteries whenever you are not using the machine. Depending on how discharged the batteries are and the ambient temperature of the batteries, it may take up to 16 hours to charge the batteries to full capacity.

Note: Normal charge time is approximately 8 to 10 hours.

Important: Lead-acid batteries do not develop a charge memory and do not need to be fully discharged before charging them. Fully discharging the batteries may damage them. Charge the batteries any time the machine is not in use.

1. Position the machine in a well-ventilated area near a suitable power outlet.

2. Check the electrolyte level of the batteries.

   Note: After fully charging the batteries, fill the batteries with distilled or deionized water; refer to Adding Distilled or Deionized Water to the Batteries.

   Important: Fully charge the batteries before adding the water to the batteries. While charging, the electrolyte increases in volume, and filling a low battery before fully charging the batteries can cause the electrolyte to overflow and leak out of the vent.

3. Connect a 16 gauge (or larger diameter), 2.5 m (8.2 ft) or shorter charger cord to the charging receptacle on the machine (Figure 36).

   Note: Ensure that the charger-voltage setting matches the voltage at the power outlet being used.

   Note: In high-ambient temperature environments, remove the seat assembly for optimal charging time; refer to Removing a Bucket Seat. If the battery charger is too hot, it may not charge properly. In cold temperatures, it may take a longer for the batteries to charge.

   

   Figure 36

   1. Charger-status light
   2. Charging receptacle
   3. The battery is near empty.
   4. The battery is almost charged.
   5. The battery is charged.
   6. Charger fault; refer to the charger manual for the fault codes.

4. Plug the charger power cord into the power outlet.

   Note: While the batteries are charging, the green light on the charger blinks on and off. When the batteries are fully charged, the green light stops blinking and stays on.

5. Disconnect the cord from the power outlet.

6. Disconnect the charger from the machine.

Refer to the following table and Figure 36 for information on the meanings of the varying colors of the charger-status light.

Charger-Status Light Table

1. Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, shut off the machine, remove the key, and raise cargo bed; Raising the Cargo Bed to the Dump Position.

2. Raise the seat assembly to access the batteries; refer to Raising and Lowering the Seat Assembly.

3. Check the eyelets on each of the batteries to see if they are either black or white (Figure 37).

   Note: Black eyelets indicate that the batteries are full of water. White eyelets indicate that water is needed for the batteries.

   

   Figure 37

   1. Battery eyelet

4. If the eyelets are white, you must add distilled or deionized water to the batteries; refer to Adding Distilled or Deionized Water to the Batteries.

Important: Fully charge the batteries before adding the water to the batteries. While charging, the electrolyte increases in volume, and filling a low battery before fully charging the batteries can cause the electrolyte to overflow and leak out of the vent.

Important: Use only clean, distilled or deionized water to fill the batteries. Using tap water may damage and reduce the life of the batteries.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, shut off the machine, remove the key, and raise cargo bed; Raising the Cargo Bed to the Dump Position.

2. Charge the batteries until a full charge is achieved; refer to Charging the Batteries.

3. Raise the seat assembly to access the batteries; refer to Raising and Lowering the Seat Assembly.

4. Connect your Toro water hand pump to the water-fill port (Figure 38).

   

   Figure 38

   1. Water-fill port
   2. Hand-pump connector
   3. Water hand pump

5. Pump water into the batteries until all the eyelets on top of the batteries are black, indicating that they are filled with water.

   Important: Do not overfill the battery. Electrolyte will overflow onto other parts of the machine and severe corrosion and deterioration may result. Also, overfilling the battery may reduce the life of the battery.

When the machine begins to lose operating range or when the length of time to discharge or charge the battery is significantly reduced, the batteries are probably wearing and losing their ability to hold a charge. Take the machine to an Authorized Service Dealer and have them test the batteries to determine whether the batteries need to be replaced. The dealer can then replace the batteries for you. If you wish to replace the batteries yourself, use the following procedures:

Charge the batteries fully before placing the machine into storage. Plug the charger into a wall outlet while the machine and batteries are in storage. Leave the charger plugged into a wall outlet and charging receptacle during storage to ensure that the batteries stay charged and do not freeze; otherwise, charge the batteries at least once a month.

Important: If the machine cannot be plugged in during storage, fully charge the batteries at least once a month. The batteries self-discharge over long periods of time, which may damage the batteries to the point of being unusable, even if the batteries are new.

1. Disconnect the batteries; refer to Disconnecting the Batteries.

2. Open the hood.

3. Disconnect the electrical connector for the harness from the connector of the lamp assembly (Figure 41).

   

   Figure 41

   1. Speed clip
   2. Opening in the bumper
   3. Adjustment screw
   4. Headlight
   5. Harness electrical connector
   6. Lamp assembly

4. Remove the speed clips that secure the headlight to the headlight bracket (Figure 41).

   Note: Retain all parts for installation of the new headlight.

5. Remove the headlight assembly by moving it forward through the opening in the front bumper (Figure 41).

6. Install the new headlight through the opening in the bumper (Figure 41).

   Note: Ensure the adjustment posts are lined up with the holes in the mounting bracket behind the bumper.

7. Secure the headlight assembly with the speed clips that you removed in step 4.

8. Connect the electrical connector for the harness to the connector of the lamp assembly (Figure 41).

9. Adjust the headlights to direct the beams to the desired position, refer to Adjusting the Headlights.

Use the following procedure to adjust the headlight beam position whenever a headlight assembly is replaced or removed.

1. Park the machine on a level surface with the headlights approximately 7.6 m (25 ft) from a wall (Figure 42).

2. Measure the distance from the floor to the center of the headlight and make a mark on the wall at the same height.

3. Turn the key switch to the ON position, and turn on the headlights.

4. Take note of where the headlights aim on the wall.

   The brightest part of the headlight beam should be 20 cm (8 inches) below the mark placed on the wall (Figure 42).

   

   Figure 42

5. At the back of the headlight assembly, rotate adjustment screws (Figure 41) to pivot the headlight assembly and align the position of the cast beam.

6. Connect the batteries and close the hood; refer to Connecting the Batteries.

1. Check the tire pressure to ensure that the front tires are inflated to 82 kPa (12 psi).

2. Either add weight to the driver's seat equal to the average operator who will run the machine, or have an operator sit on the seat. The weight or operator must remain on the seat for the duration of the adjustment procedure.

3. On a level surface, roll the machine straight back 2 to 3 m (6 to 10 ft) and then straight forward to the original starting position. This allows the suspension to settle into the operating position.

Owner provided tools: spanner wrench, Toro Part 132-5069; refer to your authorized Toro distributor.

Important: Make the camber adjustments only if you are using a front attachment or if there is uneven tire wear.

1. Check the camber alignment at each wheel; the alignment should be as close to neutral (zero) as possible.

   Note: The tires should be aligned with the tread evenly on the ground to reduce uneven wear.

2. If the wheel camber is out of alignment, use the spanner wrench to rotate the collar on the shock absorber to align the wheel (Figure 45).

   

   Figure 45

   1. Shock-absorber spring
   2. Collar
   3. Spring length

Important: Before adjusting toe-in, ensure that the camber adjustment is as close to neutral as possible; refer to Adjusting the Camber.

1. Measure the distance between both of the front tires at the axle height at both the front and rear of the front tires (Figure 46).

   

   Figure 46

   1. Tire center line—back
   2. Tire center line—front
   3. Axle center line

2. If the measurement does not fall within 0 to 6 mm (0 to 1/4 inch), loosen the jam nuts at the outer end of the tie rods (Figure 47).

   

   Figure 47

   1. Tie rod
   2. Jam nut

3. Rotate both tie rods to move the front of the tire inward or outward.

4. Tighten the tie rod jam nuts when the adjustment is correct.

5. Ensure that there is full travel of the steering wheel in both directions.