Reelmaster® 3100-D Traction Unit

1. Insert a pivot rod into each lift arm and align the mounting holes (Figure 9).

   

   Figure 9

   1. Lift arm
   2. Pivot rod

2. Secure the pivot rods to the lift arms with 2 bolts (5/16 x 7/8 inch).

3. Torque the bolts to 37 to 45 N∙m (27 to 33 ft-lb).

4. At the front of the machine, remove the 2 flange capscrews (1/2 x 2 inches) that secure the pivot-shaft link to the lift arm pivot shafts, and remove the link (Figure 10).

   Note: Retain the pivot shaft link and capscrews.

   

   Figure 10

   1. Pivot-shaft link
   2. Lift arm pivot shaft

1. Assemble the lift arms onto the lift arm pivot shafts as shown in Figure 11).

   

   Figure 11

   1. Bolt (1/2 x 2 inches)
   2. Pivot-shaft link
   3. Lift arm
   4. Lift arm pivot shaft

2. Assemble pivot-shaft link to the lift arm pivot shafts (Figure 11) with the 2 flange capscrews (1/2 x 2 inches) that you removed in Preparing to Install the Lift Arms.

3. Torque the capscrews to 95 N∙m (70 ft-lb).

Grease type: No. 2 lithium grease

1. Align the cap end of the lift cylinder with the holes in the left lift-arm flanges (Figure 12).

   

   Figure 12

   1. Grease fitting
   2. Lift arm flange (left)
   3. Snap ring
   4. Mounting pin
   5. Lift cylinder (cap end)

2. Assemble the cylinder to the flanges with the mounting pin and 2 snap rings (Figure 12).

3. Apply No. 2 lithium grease to the grease fittings of the lift arm and the hydraulic cylinder (Figure 12).

Grease type: No. 2 lithium grease

1. Align a drain pan below the hydraulic fittings of the lift cylinder (Figure 13).

   

   Figure 13

2. At the lift cylinder, loosen the straight swivel fitting of the return hose and the 90° swivel fitting of the lift hose (Figure 14).

   

   Figure 14

   1. Straight swivel fitting (return hose)
   2. 90° swivel fitting (lift hose)

3. Wrap a rag around the hose fittings.

4. Slowly move the lift-cylinder rod until it aligns with the holes in the right lift-arm flanges (Figure 15).

   Important: Some hydraulic fluid is forced out at the hose fittings when you move the lift-cylinder rod.

   

   Figure 15

   1. Grease fitting
   2. Lift arm flange (right)
   3. Mounting pin
   4. Snap ring
   5. Lift-cylinder rod
   6. Spacer

5. Assemble the rod to the flanges with the mounting pin, 2 spacers, and 2 snap rings (Figure 15).

6. Apply No. 2 lithium grease to the grease fittings of the lift arm and the hydraulic cylinder (Figure 15).

7. Torque the swivel fittings of the return and lift hoses to 37 to 45 N∙m (27 to 33 ft-lb).

   

   Figure 16

   1. Straight swivel fitting (return hose)
   2. 90° swivel fitting (lift hose)

8. Clean hydraulic fluid from the machine.

1. Remove the cutting units from the cartons.

2. Adjust the cutting units as instructed in the Operator’s Manual for the cutting units.

Note: The front carrier frames are part of the optional lift arm kit.

1. Align the holes in the plates of the front-carrier frame with the holes in the cutting unit mounting plates (Figure 17).

   

   Figure 17

   1. Pivot tube (front-carrier frame)
   2. Carriage bolt (3/8 x 2-1/4 inches)
   3. Plate (front carrier frame)
   4. Washer
   5. Link (cutting unit)
   6. Flange locknut (3/8 inch)

2. Align a washer between the carrier plate and link (Figure 17), and loosely assemble the plates and spacer with a carriage bolt (3/8 x 2-1/4 inches), washer, and flange locknut (3/8 inch).

   Note: If you are starting assembly at the back of the cutting unit, use the middle hole of the plate.

3. Repeat step 2 at the other plate holes and links.

4. Torque the flange locknuts to 37 to 45 N∙m (27 to 33 ft-lb).

5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the other front cutting unit and carrier frame.

Note: The rear carrier frame is part of the optional lift arm kit.

1. Align the hole in the plates rear-carrier frame with the hole in the cutting unit mounting plates

   

   Figure 18

   1. Carriage bolt (3/8 x 2-1/4 inches)
   2. Plate (rear carrier frame)
   3. Washer
   4. Link (cutting unit)
   5. Flange locknut (3/8 inch)

2. Align a washer between the carrier plate and link (Figure 18), and loosely assemble the plates and spacer with a carriage bolt (3/8 x 2-1/4 inches), washer, and flange locknut (3/8 inch).

   Note: If you are starting assembly at the back of the cutting unit, use the middle hole of the plate.

3. Repeat step 2 at the other plate holes and links.

4. Torque the flange locknuts to 37 to 45 N∙m (27 to 33 ft-lb).

Note: The front carrier frames are part of the optional lift arm kit.

1. Align the holes in the plates of the front-carrier frame with the holes in the cutting unit mounting plates (Figure 19).

   

   Figure 19

   1. Pivot tube (front-carrier frame)
   2. Carriage bolt (3/8 x 1-1/4 inches)
   3. Plate (front carrier frame)
   4. Spacer
   5. Mounting plate (cutting unit)
   6. Flange locknut (3/8 inch)

2. Align a spacer between the carrier plate and mounting plate (Figure 19), and loosely assemble the plates and spacer with a carriage bolt (3/8 x 1-1/4 inches) and flange locknut (3/8 inch).

   Note: If you are starting assembly at the back of the cutting unit, use the middle holes of each plate.

3. Repeat step 2 at the other plate holes.

4. Torque the flange locknuts to 37 to 45 N∙m (27 to 33 ft-lb).

5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the other front cutting unit and carrier frame.

Note: The rear carrier frame is part of the optional lift arm kit.

1. Align the holes in the plates of the rear-carrier frame with the holes in the cutting unit mounting plates (Figure 15).

   

   Figure 20

   1. Carriage bolt (3/8 x 1-1/4 inches)
   2. Plate (rear carrier frame)
   3. Spacer
   4. Mounting plate (cutting unit)
   5. Flange locknut (3/8 inch)

2. Align a spacer between the carrier plate and mounting plate (Figure 16), and loosely assemble the plates and spacer with a carriage bolt (3/8 x 1-1/4 inches) and flange locknut (3/8 inch).

   Note: If you are starting assembly at the back of the cutting unit, use the middle holes of each plate.

3. Repeat step 2 at the other plate holes.

4. Torque the flange locknuts to 37 to 45 N∙m (27 to 33 ft-lb).

1. Start the engine.

2. Raise the cutting units.

3. At the front cutting units, measure the distance between the left lift arm and the floor plate bracket, and the right lift arm and the floor plate bracket (Figure 26).

   Note: The correct clearance is 5 to 8 mm (3/16 to 5/16 inch). If the clearance is not in this range, adjust the cutting unit lift cylinder; refer to Adjusting Lift Arm Clearance and Adjusting the Lift Arm Stop Bolts.

   Important: A lack of clearance at the front plate bracket could damage the lift arms.

   

   Figure 26

   1. Lift arm
   2. Floor plate bracket
   3. 5 to 8 mm (3/16 to 5/16 inch) gap

4. At the rear cutting unit, measure the clearance between the wear strap on the top of the rear cutting unit wear bar and the bumper stop (Figure 27).

   Note: The correct clearance is 0.51 to 2.54 mm (0.02 to 0.10 inch). If the clearance is not in this range, adjust the cutting unit lift cylinder; refer to Adjusting the Rear Cutting Unit Clearance.

   Important: A lack of clearance at the rear wear bar could damage the cutting unit.

   

   Figure 27

   1. Bumper strap
   2. Wear bar (rear cutting unit)
   3. 0.51 to 2.54 mm (0.02 to 0.10 inch) gap

5. Start the engine, lower the cutting units, shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop.

1. At each side of the machine, loosen the jam nuts and back off the lift arm-stop bolts (Figure 28).

   

   Figure 28

   1. Jam nut
   2. Lift arm-stop bolt

2. Loosen the jam nut on the lift-cylinder rod (Figure 29).

   

   Figure 29

   1. Front lift cylinder
   2. Jam nut

3. Remove the pin from the rod end and rotate the clevis.

4. Install the pin and check the clearance.

5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 if necessary.

6. Start the engine, raise the cutting units, shut off the engine, remove the key and wait for all moving parts to stop.

7. Measure the distance between the left and right lift arms and the floor plate brackets.

   Note: The correct clearance is 0.51 to 2.54 mm (0.02 to 0.10 inch).

8. Repeat steps 3 through 7 as needed.

9. Tighten the clevis jam nut.

10. Repeat steps 2 through 9 at the other side of the machine, then perform the Adjusting the Lift Arm Stop Bolts procedure.

Important: A lack of clearance at the stop bolts could damage the lift arms.

Note: If the rear lift arm clunks during transport, reduce the clearance.

1. Start the engine, raise the cutting units, shut off the engine, remove the key and wait for all moving parts to stop.

2. Adjust the stop bolt until you measure 0.13 to 1.02 mm (0.005 to 0.040 inches) between the stop bolt and the lift-arm plate.

   

   Figure 30

   1. Jam nut
   2. Stop bolt
   3. Lift-arm plate
   4. 0.13 to 1.02 mm (0.005 to 0.040 inches) gap

3. Repeat step 2 at the stop bolt for the other lift arm.

4. Start the engine, lower the cutting units, shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop.

1. Loosen the jam nut of the lift cylinder (Figure 31).

   

   Figure 31

   1. Lift cylinder (rear cutting unit)
   2. Jam nut

2. Grasp the cylinder rod close to the nut with a pliers and rag, and rotate the rod.

   Note: Shortening the rod reduces wear strap and bumper stop clearance.

3. Start the engine.

4. Raise the cutting units and measure the clearance between the wear strap on the top of the rear cutting unit wear bar and the bumper stop.

   The correct clearance is 0.51 to 2.54 mm (0.02 to 0.10 inch).

5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 as needed.

6. Lower the cutting units, shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop.

7. Tighten the jam nut.

1. Wipe clean the left frame near the model/serial plate with alcohol, and allow the frame to dry (Figure 37).

   

   Figure 37

   1. Model/serial plate
   2. Year of production decal

2. Remove the backing and apply the Year of Production decal to the frame near the serial plate as shown in Figure 37.

3. Wipe clean the left frame near the hood lock with alcohol, and allow the frame to dry (Figure 38).

   

   Figure 38

   1. CE hood latch
   2. CE decal (Part No. 133-8095)

4. Remove the backing and apply the CE decal Part No. 133-8095 to the frame as shown in Figure 38.

1. Wipe clean the tilt decal on the slope indicator with alcohol, and allow the decal to dry (Figure 39).

   

   Figure 39

   1. Tilt decal (slope indicator)
   2. CE tilt danger decal (Part No. 121-3598)

2. Remove the backing and apply the CE tilt danger decal to the tilt decal on the slope indicator (Figure 39).

• To lower the cutting units to the ground, push forward the cutting unit shift lever forward to the LOWER position (Figure 43).

  Note: The cutting units do not lower unless the engine is running. You do not need to hold the lever in the forward position while the cutting units are lowered.

• To raise the cutting units, pull the shift lever rearward to the RAISE position.

  Note: The reels do not run while the cutting units are raised.

Move the lever to the right or left to move the cutting units in the same direction. Sideshift the cutting units only when they are raised or if they are on the ground and the machine is moving.

The cutting unit drive switch (Figure 43) has 2 positions: ENGAGE and DISENGAGE. The rocker switch operates a solenoid valve on the valve bank to drive the cutting units.

The oil pressure warning light (Figure 43) glows if the engine oil pressure drops below a safe level.

The temperature warning light (Figure 43) illuminates if the engine coolant temperature is high. At this temperature, the cutting units shut off. If the coolant temperature rises another 5.5°C (10°F), the engine shuts off to prevent further damage.

The hour meter (Figure 43) indicates the total hours of machine operation. The hour meter starts to function whenever the key switch is on.

The glow-plug indicator light (Figure 43) illuminates when the glow plugs are energized.

Move the throttle (Figure 43) forward to increase the engine speed and rearward to decrease the engine speed.

The alternator light (Figure 43) shuts off when the engine runs. If the alternator light illuminates while the engine runs, check the charging system and repair it as necessary.

Use the ignition switch (Figure 43) to run the engine and lights. The ignition switch has 3 positions:

• The SHUT OFF position shuts off the engine.

• The RUN/PREHEAT position allows the engine to run or preheats the cylinder head of the engine.

• The START position energizes the starter.

Note: When the key is in the RUN/PREHEAT position, the glow plug energizes and the indicator light illuminates for approximately 7 seconds.

Move the lift lever lock (Figure 43) rearward to prevent the cutting units from dropping.

Whenever the engine is shut off, engage the parking brake (Figure 43) to prevent accidental movement of the machine. To engage the parking brake, pull up on the lever; to disengage the brake, push down the lever.

Note: The engine shuts off if you press the traction pedal with the parking brake engaged.

Use the reel speed knob of the mower manifold to adjust the clip rate (reel speed) of the cutting units (Figure 44).

• Turn the reel speed knob counterclockwise to increase the reel speed.

• Turn the knob clockwise to slow the reel speed.

Refer to Clip Rate (Reel Speed) and Adjusting Reel Speed for information on how to adjust the reel speed control.

The backlap lever to control the direction the cutting units rotate when you are mowing or when you backlap the reels and bedknives (Figure 44).

• Rotate the backlap lever to the F position when mowing.

• Rotate the lever to the R position when backlapping the cutting units.

Important: Do not change the backlap lever position while the reels are rotating.

Use only clean, fresh diesel fuel with ultra low (<15 ppm) or low (<1000 ppm) sulfur content. Purchase fuel in quantities that can be used within 180 days to ensure fuel freshness.

Important: If you use high-sulfur diesel fuel (sulfur content 0.50 % (5000 ppm) to 1.0 % (10000 ppm), change the engine oil and oil filter every 75 hours.

Use summer-grade diesel fuel (No. 2-D) at temperatures above -7°C (20°F) and winter-grade (No. 1-D or No. 1-D/2-D blend) below that temperature. Using winter-grade fuel at lower temperatures provides a lower flash point and cold flow characteristics, which eases starting and reduces plugging of the fuel filter.

Using summer-grade fuel above -7°C (20°F) contributes toward longer fuel pump life and increased power compared to winter-grade fuel.

Fuel tank capacity: approximately 28 L (7.5 US gallons)

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the cutting units, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. Clean the area around the fuel-tank cap (Figure 46).

   

   Figure 46

   1. Fuel-tank cap

3. Remove the fuel-tank cap.

4. Fill the tank to the bottom of the filler neck.

   Note: Do not overfill the fuel tank.

5. Install the cap.

6. Wipe up any spilled fuel.

Before starting the machine each day, perform the Each Use/Daily procedures listed in .

Important: If your machine fails any of the interlock switch checks, contact your authorized Toro distributor.

Note: You may need to bleed the fuel system if any of the following situations have occurred; refer to Bleeding the Fuel System:

• It is the initial startup of a new engine.

• The engine has shut off because lack of fuel.

• You performed maintenance for the fuel system components, such as replacing the fuel filter.

1. Ensure that the parking brake is engaged, and the reel drive switch is in the DISENGAGE position.

2. Remove your foot from the traction pedal and ensure that the pedal is in the NEUTRAL position.

3. Move the throttle lever to the 1/2 throttle position.

4. Insert the key into the switch and rotate it to the ON/PREHEAT position until the glow plug indicator light goes out (approximately 7 seconds); then rotate the key to the START position to engage the starter motor. Release the key when the engine starts.

   Note: The key moves automatically to the ON/RUN position.

   Important: To prevent overheating of the starter motor, do not engage the starter longer than 15 seconds. After 10 seconds of continuous cranking, wait 60 seconds before engaging the starter motor again.

5. When the engine is started for the first time or after an overhaul of the engine, operate the machine in forward and reverse for 1 to 2 minutes. Also operate the lift lever and cutting unit drive switch to ensure proper operation of all parts.

   Note: Turn the steering wheel to the left and right to check the steering response, then shut the engine off and check for oil leaks, loose parts, and any other wear or damage.

   Caution

   Checking for oil leaks, loose parts, and other malfunctions could result in injury.

   Shut off the engine and wait for all moving parts to stop before checking for oil leaks, loose parts, and other malfunctions.

1. Move the throttle control to the IDLE position.

2. Engage the parking brake.

3. Move the cutting unit drive switch to DISENGAGE position.

4. Lower the cutting units.

5. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop.

1. Move the machine to the job site and align the machine outside the cutting area for the first cutting pass.

2. Ensure that the cutting-unit drive switch is pulled up (the DISENGAGE position); Cutting Unit Drive Switch.

3. Move the throttle to the FAST position; refer to Throttle.

4. Use the cutting-unit shift lever to lower the cutting units to the ground; refer to Cutting Unit Shift Lever—Raise/Lower.

5. Press the cutting-unit drive switch to prepare cutting units for operation (the ENGAGE position).

6. Use the cutting-unit shift lever to raise the cutting units off the ground.

7. Begin moving the machine toward the cutting area and lower the cutting units.

   Note: The cutting units run.

8. Before reaching the turnaround location, pull back the cutting-unit shift lever only long enough to raise the cutting units, and release the control lever.

   Important: Do not hold the cutting-unit shift lever back while turning.

9. Perform a tear-shaped turn to quickly line up for your next pass.

1. Move the cutting unit drive switch to the DISENGAGE position.

2. Raise the cutting units to the transport position.

3. Move the mow/transport slide left to the TRANSPORT position.

   

   Figure 47

   1. Transport
   2. Mow/transport slid

Important: Be careful when driving between objects so that you do not accidentally damage the machine or the cutting units. Use extra care when operating the machine on slopes. Drive slowly and avoid sharp turns on slopes to prevent rollovers.

Note: You cannot lower the cutting units while operating the machine the transport mode.

To achieve a consistent, high quality of cut and a uniform after-cut appearance, it is important that the reel speed be matched to the height of cut.

Important: If the reel speed is too slow, you may notice visible clip marks. If the reel speed is too fast, the cut may have a fuzzy appearance.

Reel Speed Selection Chart

1. Verify the height-of-cut setting on the cutting units. Use the column of the Reel Speed Selection Chart listing either 5-blade, 8-blade, or 11-blade reels, and find the height-of-cut listing nearest the actual height-of-cut setting. Look across the chart to find the reel-speed number that corresponds to that height of cut.

2. Lift the cover from the control arm (Figure 48).

   

   Figure 48

   1. Cover (control arm)
   2. Reel speed and backlap control

3. Turn the reel speed control knob (Figure 49) to the reel-speed number determined in Step 1.

   

   Figure 49

   1. Reel speed control
   2. Backlap control

4. Assemble the cover onto the control arm.

5. Operate the machine for several days, then examine the cut to ensure the quality of cut. The reel speed knob may be set 1 position on either side of the reel-speed number indicated on the chart to account for differences in grass condition, grass length removed, and personal preference.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the cutting units, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

2. Ensure that the fuel tank is at least half full.

3. Unlatch and raise the hood.

4. Open the air-bleed screw on the fuel-injection pump (Figure 50).

   

   Figure 50

   1. Fuel-injection pump bleed screw

5. Turn the key in the ignition switch to the ON position.

   The electric fuel pump runs, forcing air out around the air-bleed screw.

   Note: Leave the key in the ON position until a solid stream of fuel flows out around the screw.

6. Tighten the screw and turn the ignition key to OFF.

Note: The engine should start after you follow the procedure above. However, if the engine does not start, air may be trapped between the injection pump and injectors; refer to Bleeding Air from the Injectors.

Wash the machine and grease it; refer to Washing the Machine and Greasing the Bearings and Bushings.

In case of an emergency, you can tow the machine for a short distance; however, Toro does not recommend this as a standard procedure.

Important: Do not tow the machine faster than 3 to 4 km/h (2 to 3 mph) because it may damage the drive system. If you must move the machine a considerable distance, transport it on a truck or trailer.

1. Unlatch and open the hood.

2. Near the right hood latch, rotate the handle bypass valve on the pump (Figure 51) and rotate the valve 90°.

   

   Figure 51

   1. Bypass valve

3. Close and latch the hood.

4. Connect the tow vehicle to the machine at the tie-down points; refer to Identifying the Tie-Down Points.

5. Sit in the operator’s seat, and if needed, use the parking brake to control your machine while being towed.

   Important: Do not start the engine while the bypass valve is open.

6. Before starting the engine, close the bypass valve by rotating it 90° (1/4 turn).

• Use full-width ramps for loading the machine onto a trailer or truck.

• Tie the machine down securely.

1. Park the machine on a level surface.

2. Lower the cutting units.

3. Engage the parking brake.

4. Shut off the engine, and remove the key.

5. Wait for all parts to stop moving.

Remove the 2 knobs that secure the battery cover to the machine, and remove the cover (Figure 52).

Figure 53

1. Knob
2. Battery cover

1. Release the latches at the left side and right side of the hood (Figure 53).

   

   Figure 54

   1. Hood latch

2. Rotate the hood up and back (Figure 54).

   

   Figure 55

Grease Specification: No. 2 lithium grease

The machine has grease fittings that must be lubricated regularly. Dusty and dirty operating conditions could cause dirt to get into the bearings and bushings, resulting in accelerated wear. Lubricate the grease fittings immediately after every washing, regardless of the interval specified.

1. Prepare the machine for maintenance; refer to Preparing for Maintenance.

2. Grease fittings at the locations and for quantities are as follows:

   • Rear cutting unit pivot (Figure 56)

     

     Figure 56

   • Front cutting unit pivot (Figure 57)

     

     Figure 57

   • Sidewinder cylinder ends (2 fittings; Model 03171 only—Figure 58)

     

     Figure 58

   • Steering pivot (Figure 59)

     

     Figure 59

   • Rear lift arm pivot and lift cylinder (2 fittings—Figure 60)

     

     Figure 60

   • Left front lift arm pivot and lift cylinder (2 fittings—Figure 61)

     

     Figure 61

   • Right front lift arm pivot and lift cylinder (2 fittings—Figure 62)

     

     Figure 62

   • Neutral adjust mechanism (Figure 63)

     

     Figure 63

   • Mow/transport slide (Figure 64)

     

     Figure 64

   • Belt tension pivot (Figure 65)

     

     Figure 65

   • Steering cylinder (Figure 66).

     

     Figure 66

     Note: If desired, install an additional grease fitting in the other end of the steering cylinder. Remove the tire, install the fitting, grease the fitting, remove the fitting, and install the plug (Figure 67).

     

     Figure 67

Bearings rarely fail from defects in materials or workmanship. The most common reason for failure is moisture and contamination working its way past the protective seals. Bearings that are greased rely upon regular maintenance to purge harmful debris from the bearing area. Sealed bearings rely on an initial fill of special grease and a robust integral seal to keep contaminants and moisture out of the rolling elements.

The sealed bearings require no lubrication or short-term maintenance. This minimizes routine service required and reduces the potential of turf damage due to grease contamination. These sealed bearing packages will provide good performance and life under normal use, but you should periodically inspect the bearing condition and seal integrity to avoid downtime. Inspect the bearings seasonally and replace the them if they are damaged or worn. Bearings should operate smoothly with no detrimental characteristics such as high heat, noise, looseness, or indications of corrosion (rust).

Due to the operating conditions these bearing/seal packages are subject to (i.e., sand, turf chemicals, water, impacts, etc.) they are considered normal wear items. Bearings that fail due to causes other than defects in materials or workmanship are typically not covered under the warranty.

Note: Bearing life can be negatively affected by improper wash-down procedures. Do not wash down the machine when it is still hot and avoid directing high-pressure or high-volume spray at the bearings.

Use high-quality, low-ash engine oil that meets or exceeds the following specifications:

Service Category

Preferred oil viscosity: SAE 15W-40 [-17ºC (above 0°F)]

Alternate oil viscosity: SAE 10W-30 or 5W-30 (all temperatures)

Toro Premium Engine Oil is available from your authorized Toro distributor in either 15W-40 or 10W-30 viscosity grades.

The engine is shipped with oil in the crankcase; however, check the oil level before and after you first start the engine.

Note: Toro Premium Engine oil is available from a distributor in either 15W-40 or 10W-30 viscosity. See the parts catalog for part numbers.

Note: The best time to check the engine oil is when the engine is cool before it has been started for the day. If it has already been run, allow the oil to drain back down to the sump for at least 10 minutes before checking. If the oil level is at or below the Add mark on the dipstick, add oil to bring the oil level to the Full mark. Do not overfill. If the oil level is between the Full and Add marks, you do not need to add oil.

1. Prepare the machine for maintenance; refer to Preparing for Maintenance.

2. Unlatch and open the hood.

3. Remove the dipstick (Figure 68) and wipe it with a clean rag.

   

   Figure 68

   1. Dipstick

4. Push the dipstick down into the dipstick tube and ensure that it is seated fully, then pull the dipstick out and check the oil level.

5. If the oil level is low, remove the oil-fill cap (Figure 69) and gradually add small quantities of oil, checking the level frequently, until the level reaches the Full mark on the dipstick.

   Important: Keep the engine-oil level between the upper and lower limits on the dipstick. Overfilling or underfilling the engine oil may cause severe engine damage.

   

   Figure 69

   1. Oil-fill cap

6. Install the oil-fill cap and dipstick.

7. Close and latch the hood.

Crankcase capacity: approximately 3.8 L (4.0 US qt) with the filter

1. Prepare the machine for maintenance; refer to Preparing for Maintenance.

2. Unlatch and open the hood, and wait for the engine to cool.

3. Remove either drain plug (Figure 70) and let the oil flow into a drain pan; when the oil stops flowing, install the drain plug.

   

   Figure 70

   1. Drain plugs

4. Remove the oil filter (Figure 71).

   

   Figure 71

   1. Oil filter

5. Apply a light coat of clean oil to the new filter seal and install the oil filter.

   Note: Do not overtighten the filter.

6. Add oil to the crankcase; refer to Engine Oil Specification and Checking the Engine-Oil Level.

7. Close and latch the hood.

Prepare the machine for maintenance; refer to Preparing for Maintenance.

Drain and clean the tank if the fuel system becomes contaminated or if the machine will be stored for an extended period. Use clean fuel to flush out the tank.

1. Prepare the machine for maintenance; refer to Preparing for Maintenance.

2. Unlatch and open the hood.

3. Inspect the fuel lines and fittings for deterioration, damage, or loose connections.

   Note: Repair or replace any damaged or worn the fuel lines or fittings.

4. Close and latch the hood.

1. Prepare the machine for maintenance; refer to Preparing for Maintenance.

2. Unlatch and open the hood, and wait for the engine to cool.

3. Place a clean container under the fuel filter.

4. Loosen the drain valve on the bottom of the filter canister (Figure 73).

   

   Figure 73

   1. Water separator/filter canister
   2. Vent plug
   3. Drain valve

5. Tighten the valve after draining.

6. Start the engine, check for leaks, and shut off the engine.

   Note: Repair all fuel leaks.

7. Close and latch the hood.

1. Prepare the machine for maintenance; refer to Preparing for Maintenance.

2. Unlatch and open the hood, and wait for the engine to cool.

3. Clean the area where the filter canister mounts (Figure 73).

4. Remove the filter canister and clean the mounting surface.

5. Lubricate the gasket on the filter canister with clean oil.

6. Install the filter canister by hand until the gasket contacts the mounting surface; then rotate an additional 1/2 turn.

7. Start the engine, check for leaks, and shut off the engine.

   Note: Repair all fuel leaks.

8. Close and latch the hood.

Note: Use this procedure only if the fuel system has been purged of air through normal priming procedures and the engine does not start; refer to Bleeding the Fuel System.

1. When possible, preform each step in Preparing for Maintenance.

2. Unlatch and open the hood, and if the engine is hot wait for it to cool.

3. Loosen the tube nut for the fuel line to the No. 1 fuel-injector nozzle.

   

   Figure 74

   1. Fuel injectors

4. Move the throttle to the FAST position.

5. Turn the key in the key switch to the START position and watch the fuel flow around the connector. Turn the key to the OFF position when there is a continuous flow.

   Important: To prevent overheating of the starter motor, do not engage the starter for longer than 15 seconds. After 10 seconds of continuous cranking, wait 60 seconds before engaging the starter motor again.

6. Tighten the tube nut securely.

7. Clean any fuel from the engine.

8. Repeat steps 3 through 7 for the remaining fuel-injector nozzles.

9. Start the engine, check for leaks, and shut off the engine.

   Note: Repair all fuel leaks.

10. Close and latch the hood.

1. Prepare the machine for maintenance; refer to Preparing for Maintenance.

2. Remove the battery cover; refer to Removing the Battery Cover.

3. Remove the filler caps of the battery.

4. Maintain the battery electrolyte level in the battery cells with distilled or demineralized water.

   Note: Do not fill the cells above the bottom of the split ring inside each cell.

5. Install the filler caps with the vents pointing to the rear (toward the fuel tank).

6. Clean the top of the battery by washing it periodically with a brush dipped in ammonia or bicarbonate of soda solution. Flush the top surface with water after cleaning.

   Important: Do not remove the filler caps while cleaning.

7. Check the battery cable clamps and battery posts for corrosion. If corrosion occurs, perform the following:

   1. Disconnect the negative (–) battery cable.

   2. Disconnect the positive (+) battery cable.

   3. Clean the clamps and posts separately.

   4. Connect the positive (+) battery cable.

   5. Connect the negative (–) battery cable.

   6. Coat the clamps and terminals with battery terminal protector.

8. Check that the battery cable clamps are tight on the battery posts.

9. Install the battery cover.

Note: Store the machine where the temperature is cooler rather than warmer to prevent the battery from discharging more rapidly.

1. Lift the cover from the control arm (Figure 75).

   

   Figure 75

   1. Right side of the machine
   2. Control-arm cover
   3. Fuse holder
   4. Fuse block

2. Locate the open fuse in the fuse holder or fuse block (Figure 75).

3. Replace the fuse with the same type and amperage fuse.

4. Assemble the cover onto the control arm (Figure 75).

Note: Maintain the recommended pressure in all tires to ensure a good quality of cut and proper machine performance.

1. Measure the air pressure in each tire. The correct air pressure in the tires is 97 to 110 kPa (14 to 16 psi).

2. If needed, add air to of remove air from the tires until you measure 97 to 110 kPa (14 to 16 psi).

Torque the wheel nuts in a crossing pattern to 61 to 88 N∙m (45 to 65 ft-lb).

If the machine moves when the traction pedal is in the NEUTRAL position, adjust the traction cam.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, lower the cutting units, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key from the ignition switch.

2. Raise a front wheel and a rear wheel off the floor and place support blocks under the frame.

   Warning

   If the machine is not supported adequately, it may accidentally fall, injuring anyone under the machine.

   Raise a front wheel and the rear wheel off the ground; otherwise, the machine will move during adjustment.

3. Loosen the locknut on the traction adjustment cam (Figure 76).

   

   Figure 76

   1. Traction adjustment cam
   2. Locknut

   Warning

   The engine must be running so that you can make a final adjustment of the traction adjustment cam. Contact with hot or moving parts can result in personal injury.

   Keep your hands, feet, face, and other body parts away from the muffler, other hot parts of the engine, and rotating parts.

4. Start the engine and rotate the cam hex in both directions to determine the mid position of the neutral span.

5. Tighten the locknut securing the adjustment.

6. Shut off the engine.

7. Remove the support blocks and lower the machine to the shop floor. Test drive the machine to ensure that it does not move when the traction pedal is in neutral.

The coolant reservoir is filled at the factory with a 50/50 solution of water and ethylene glycol base extended-life coolant. Check the coolant level before you first start the engine and daily thereafter; refer to Checking the Coolant Level.

The following commercially available coolants or a manufacturer-specified equivalent meeting the long-life coolant specification:

Extended-Life Coolant Products

Coolant Types

Note: When adding coolant to the machine, you will not damage the cooling system by mixing conventional (IAT) antifreeze with extended-life (OAT) antifreeze. However, mixing antifreeze types degrades the long life/extended life attribute of the OAT formulation.

Important: The service interval of conventional (IAT) and extended-life (OAT) blended-coolant mixture—at any ratio—lasts as long as the coolant with the shortest service interval: 2 years.

Cooling system capacity: approximately 5.7 L (6 US qt)

1. Prepare the machine for maintenance; refer to Preparing for Maintenance.

2. Unlatch and open the hood.

3. Check the coolant level in the expansion tank (Figure 77).

   

   Figure 77

   1. Expansion tank

   Note: With a cold engine, the coolant level should be approximately midway between the marks on the side of the tank.

4. If the coolant level is low remove the expansion tank cap, add the specified coolant to the tank until the coolant level is midway between the marks on the side of the tank, and assemble the cap to the tank.

   Important: Do not overfill the expansion tank.

5. Close and latch the hood.

Remove debris from the oil cooler and radiator daily. Clean them more frequently in dirty conditions.

1. Prepare the machine for maintenance; refer to Preparing for Maintenance.

2. Raise the hood.

3. Clean the engine area thoroughly of all debris.

4. Remove the lower radiator shield (Figure 78).

   

   Figure 78

   1. Radiator
   2. Lower radiator shield

5. Clean both sides of the radiator area thoroughly with water or compressed air (Figure 78).

6. Install the lower radiator shield.

7. Close and latch the hood.

1. Prepare the machine for maintenance; refer to Preparing for Maintenance.

2. Loosen the setscrew securing the knob to the parking-brake lever (Figure 79).

   

   Figure 79

   1. Parking-brake lever
   2. Knob
   3. Set screw

3. Rotate the knob until a force of 133 to 178 N (30 to 40 lb) is required to actuate the lever.

4. Tighten the setscrew.

1. Prepare the machine for maintenance; refer to Preparing for Maintenance.

2. Loosen the jam nut for the speed stop screw.

3. Adjust the speed stop screw as follow:

   Note: The mow speed is set at the factory to 9.7 km/h (6 mph).

   • To decrease the mow speed, rotate the speed stop screw (Figure 82) clockwise.

   • To increase the mow speed, rotate the speed stop screw counterclockwise.

   

   Figure 82

4. Hold the stop screw and tighten the jam nut.

5. Test drive the machine to confirm the maximum mow speed adjustment.

1. Prepare the machine for maintenance; refer to Preparing for Maintenance.

2. Unlatch and open the hood.

3. Position the throttle lever rearward so that it stops against the control panel slot.

4. Loosen the throttle cable connector on the injection pump lever arm (Figure 83).

   

   Figure 83

   1. Injection pump lever arm

5. Hold the injection pump lever arm against the low idle stop and tighten the cable connector.

6. Loosen the screws securing the throttle control to the control panel.

7. Push the throttle control lever all the way forward.

8. Slide the stop plate until it contacts the throttle lever and tighten the screws securing the throttle control to the control panel.

9. If the throttle does not stay in position during operation, torque the locknut, used to set the friction device on the throttle lever, to 5 to 6 N∙m (44 to 53 in-lb).

   Note: The maximum force required to operate the throttle lever should be 89 N (20 lb).

10. Close and latch the hood.

Check the hydraulic lines and hoses for leaks, kinked lines, loose mounting supports, wear, loose fittings, weather deterioration, and chemical deterioration. Make all necessary repairs before operating.

The reservoir is filled at the factory with high-quality hydraulic fluid. Check the level of the hydraulic fluid before you first start the engine and daily thereafter; refer to Checking the Hydraulic Fluid.

Recommended hydraulic fluid: Toro PX Extended Life Hydraulic Fluid; available in 19 L (5 US gallon) pails or 208 L (55 US gallon) drums.

Note: A machine using the recommended replacement fluid requires less frequent fluid and filter changes.

Alternative hydraulic fluids: If Toro PX Extended Life Hydraulic Fluid is not available, you may use another conventional, petroleum-based hydraulic fluid having specifications that fall within the listed range for all the following material properties and that it meets industry standards. Do not use synthetic fluid. Consult with your lubricant distributor to identify a satisfactory product.

Note: Toro does not assume responsibility for damage caused by improper substitutions, so use products only from reputable manufacturers who will stand behind their recommendation.

High Viscosity Index/Low Pour Point Anti-wear Hydraulic Fluid, ISO VG 46

Note: Many hydraulic fluids are almost colorless, making it difficult to spot leaks. A red dye additive for the hydraulic fluid is available in 20 ml (0.67 fl oz) bottles. A bottle is sufficient for 15 to 22 L (4 to 6 US gallons) of hydraulic fluid. Order Part No. 44-2500 from your authorized Toro distributor.

Important: Toro Premium Synthetic Biodegradable Hydraulic Fluid is the only synthetic biodegradable fluid approved by Toro. This fluid is compatible with the elastomers used in Toro hydraulic systems and is suitable for a wide-range of temperature conditions. This fluid is compatible with conventional mineral oils, but for maximum biodegradability and performance, the hydraulic system should be thoroughly flushed of conventional fluid. The oil is available in 19 L (5 US gallon) pails or 208 L (55 US gallon) drums from your authorized Toro distributor.

The reservoir is filled at the factory with high-quality hydraulic fluid. The best time to check the hydraulic oil is when the fluid is cold. The machine should be in its transport configuration.

1. Prepare the machine for maintenance; refer to Preparing for Maintenance.

2. Clean the area around the filler neck and cap of the hydraulic-fluid tank (Figure 84) and remove the cap.

   

   Figure 84

   1. Cap
   2. Filler neck (hydraulic-fluid reservoir)
   3. Dipstick

3. Remove the dipstick from the filler neck and wipe it with a clean rag.

4. Insert the dipstick into the filler neck; then remove it and check the fluid level.

   Note: The fluid level should be within 6 mm (1/4 inch) of the mark on the dipstick.

5. If the level is low, add the specified fluid to raise the level to the full mark; refer to Hydraulic Fluid Specifications.

   Important: Do not overfill the hydraulic reservoir.

6. Install the dipstick and cap onto the filler neck.

13.2 L (3.5 US gallons); refer to Hydraulic Fluid Specifications

If the fluid becomes contaminated, contact your authorized Toro distributor because the system must be flushed. Contaminated fluid looks milky or black when compared to clean oil.

1. Prepare the machine for maintenance; refer to Preparing for Maintenance.

2. Disconnect the hydraulic hose (Figure 85) or remove the hydraulic filter (Figure 86) and drain the hydraulic fluid into a drain pan.

   

   Figure 85

   1. Filter head fitting
   2. Hose clamp
   3. Hydraulic hose
   

   Figure 86

   1. Hydraulic filter
   2. Filter head

3. Install the hydraulic hose when hydraulic fluid stops draining.

4. Fill the reservoir (Figure 87) with approximately 22.7 L (6 US gallons) of hydraulic fluid; refer to Hydraulic Fluid Specifications.

   Important: Use only the hydraulic fluids specified. Other fluids could cause system damage.

   

   Figure 87

   1. Cap
   2. Filler neck (hydraulic-fluid reservoir)
   3. Dipstick

5. Install the dipstick and cap onto the filler neck.

6. Start the engine and use all the hydraulic controls to distribute the hydraulic fluid throughout the system.

7. Check for leaks; then shut off the engine.

8. Check the fluid level and add enough to raise the level to Full mark on the dipstick.

   Important: Do not overfill the reservoir.

Use a genuine Toro replacement filter (Part No. 86-3010).

Important: Use of any other filter may void the warranty on some components.

1. Prepare the machine for maintenance; refer to Preparing for Maintenance.

2. Clean around the filter mounting area. Place a drain pan under the filter (Figure 88) and remove the filter.

   

   Figure 88

   1. Hydraulic filter
   2. Filter head

3. Lubricate the new filter gasket and fill the filter with hydraulic fluid.

4. Ensure that the filter mounting area is clean. Screw the filter on until the gasket contacts the mounting plate; then tighten the filter 1/2 turn.

5. Start the engine and let it run for about 2 minutes to purge air from the system. Shut off the engine and check for leaks.

Check the reel-to-bedknife contact even if the quality of cut had been acceptable previously. There must be light contact across the full length of the reel and bedknife; refer to Adjusting Reel to Bedknife in the cutting unit operator’s manual.

Note: Additional instructions and procedures on backlapping are available in the Toro Reel Mower Basics (with sharpening guidelines)​, Form 09168SL.

Wash the machine as needed using water alone or with a mild detergent. You may use a rag when washing the machine.

Important: Do not use brackish or reclaimed water to clean the machine.

Important: Do not use power-washing equipment to wash the machine. Power-washing equipment may damage the electrical system, loosen important decals, or wash away necessary grease at friction points. Avoid excessive use of water near the control panel, engine, and battery.

Important: Do not wash the machine with the engine running. Washing the machine with the engine running may result in internal engine damage.