Z Master® Professional 2000 Series Riding Mower

Before starting the machine each day, perform the Each Use/Daily procedures listed in .

New engines take time to develop full power. Mower decks and drive systems have higher friction when new, placing additional load on the engine. Allow 40 to 50 hours of break-in time for new machines to develop full power and best performance.

The seat can move forward and backward (Figure 13). Position the seat where you have the best control of the machine and are most comfortable.

Figure 13

Seat for machines with MyRide shown.

The seat is adjustable to provide a smooth and comfortable ride. Position the seat where you are most comfortable.

To adjust it, turn the knob in front either direction to provide the best comfort (Figure 14).

Figure 14

1. Seat-suspension knob

The MyRide™ suspension system adjusts to provide a smooth and comfortable ride. You can adjust the rear 2-shock assemblies to quickly and easily change the suspension system. Position the suspension system where you are most comfortable.

The slots for the rear-shock assemblies have detent positions for reference. You can position the rear-shock assemblies anywhere in the slot, not just in the detent positions. The following graphic shows the position for a soft or firm ride and the different detent positions (Figure 15).

Figure 15

1. Firmest position
2. Softest position
3. Detents in the slots

Note: Ensure that the left and right rear-shock assemblies are always adjusted to the same positions.

Adjust the rear-shock assemblies (Figure 16).

Figure 16

Use the mower deck as a step to get into the operator’s position (Figure 19).

Figure 19

1. Step here.

Always engage the parking brake when you stop the machine or leave it unattended.

Engaging the Parking Brake

Park the machine on a level surface.

Figure 20

Disengaging the Parking Brake

Figure 21

The blade-control switch (PTO) starts and stops the mower blades and any powered attachments.

Engaging the Blade-Control Switch (PTO)

Note: Engaging the blade-control switch (PTO) with the throttle position at half or less causes excessive wear to the drive belts.

Figure 22

Disengaging the Blade-Control Switch (PTO)

Figure 23

You can move the throttle control between FAST and SLOW positions (Figure 24).

Always use the FAST position when engaging the PTO.

Figure 24

Use the choke to start a cold engine.

1. Pull up the choke knob to engage the choke before using the key switch (Figure 25).

2. Push down the choke knob to disengage the choke after the engine has started (Figure 25).

   

   Figure 25

   1. ON position
   2. OFF position

Note: A warm or hot engine may not require choking.

Important: Do not engage the starter for more than 5 seconds at a time. Engaging the starter motor for more than 5 seconds can damage the starter motor. If the engine fails to start, wait 10 seconds before operating the engine starter again.

Figure 26

Note: Refer to Figure 45 to determine which engine you have.

Shutting Off a Kawasaki or Briggs and Stratton Engine

Let the engine idle at slow throttle for 60 seconds before turning the switch off.

Figure 27

Important: Make sure that the fuel-shutoff valve is closed before transporting or storing the machine to prevent fuel leakage. Engage the parking brake before transporting. Remove the key as the fuel pump may run and cause the battery to lose charge.

Shutting Off Toro Engines

Note: Ensure the throttle is in the FAST position before shutting off the engine.

Figure 28

Important: Make sure that the fuel-shutoff valve is closed before transporting or storing the machine to prevent fuel leakage. Engage the parking brake before transporting. Remove the key as the fuel pump may run and cause the battery to lose charge.

The drive wheels turn independently, powered by hydraulic motors on each axle. You can turn 1 side in reverse while you turn the other forward, causing the machine to spin rather than turn. This greatly improves the machine maneuverability but may require some time for you to adapt to how it moves.

The throttle control regulates the engine speed as measured in rpm (revolutions per minute). Place the throttle control in the FAST position for best performance. Always operate in the full throttle position when mowing.

The mower has a hinged grass deflector that disperses clippings to the side and down toward the turf.

Whenever you change the height-of-cut, adjust the height of the anti-scalp rollers.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Adjust the anti-scalp rollers as shown in Figure 34, Figure 35, and Figure 36.

   

   Figure 34

   1. Anti-scalp roller
   2. Spacer
   3. Bushing
   4. Flange nut
   5. Bolt
   

   Figure 35

   1. Anti-scalp roller
   2. Bushing
   3. Flange nut
   4. Bolt
   

   Figure 36

   1. Anti-scalp roller
   2. Spacer
   3. Bushing
   4. Flange nut
   5. Bolt

Close the fuel-shutoff valve for transport, maintenance, and storage (Figure 37).

Ensure that the fuel-shutoff valve is open when starting the engine.

Figure 37

1. ON position
2. OFF position

The drive-wheel release valves are located behind the seat, near the engine compartment.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. To push the machine, move the bypass levers rearward and out to lock them in place as shown in Figure 38.

   Repeat this on the other side of the machine.

   

   Figure 38

The machine is capable of pulling trailers and attachments. Contact your authorized Toro distributor for the available tow hitches.

Your machine can tow trailers with a maximum gross trailer weight (GTW) up to 113 kg (250 lb).

Do not exceed 22 kg (49 lb) of tongue weight on the tow hitch of the machine.

When hauling cargo or towing a trailer, do not overload the machine or trailer. Overloading can cause poor performance or damage to the hydraulic-drive units, tires, and frame.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Insert the hitch ball mount into the receiver located at the rear of the machine.

4. Insert the hitch pin through the hole in the receiver and the hitch ball mount.

5. Secure the hitch using the hairpin cotter.

   

   Figure 39

Use a heavy-duty trailer or truck to transport the machine. Use a full-width ramp. Ensure that the trailer or truck has all the necessary brakes, lighting, and marking as required by law. Please carefully read all the safety instructions. Knowing this information could help you or bystanders avoid injury. Refer to your local ordinances for trailer and tie-down requirements.

Selecting a Trailer

Warning

Loading a machine onto a trailer or truck increases the possibility of tip-over and could cause serious injury or death (Figure 40).

• Use only a full-width ramp; do not use individual ramps for each side of the machine.

• Do not exceed a 15-degree angle between the ramp and the ground or between the ramp and the trailer or truck.

• Ensure that the length of the ramp is at least 4 times as long as the height of the trailer or truck bed to the ground. This ensures that the ramp angle does not exceed 15 degrees on flat ground.

Figure 40

1. Full-width ramp in stowed position
2. Side view of full-width ramp in loading position
3. Not greater than 15 degrees
4. Ramp is at least 4 times as long as the height of the trailer or truck bed to the ground
5. H=height of the trailer or truck bed to the ground
6. Trailer

Grease the machine more often in dirty or dusty conditions.

Grease Type: No. 2 lithium or molybdenum grease

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Clean the grease fittings with a rag.

   Note: Scrape any paint off the front of the fitting(s).

4. Connect a grease gun to the fitting.

5. Pump grease into the fittings until grease begins to ooze out of the bearings.

6. Wipe up any excess grease.

Use light oil or spray lubricant to lubricate the deck-lift pivots.

Figure 43

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Remove the dust cap and adjust the caster pivots and keep the dust cap off until greasing is done; refer to Greasing the Machine.

4. Remove the hex plug.

5. Thread a grease fitting into the hole.

6. Pump grease into the fitting until it oozes out around the top bearing.

7. Remove the grease fitting from the hole. Install the hex plug and cap.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Raise the mower for access.

4. Remove the caster wheel from the caster forks.

5. Remove the seal guards from the wheel hub.

   

   Figure 44

   1. Seal guard
   2. Spacer nut with wrench flats

6. Remove a spacer nut from the axle assembly in the caster wheel.

   Note: Thread-locking compound has been applied to lock the spacer nuts to the axle.

7. Remove the axle (with the other spacer nut still assembled to it) from the wheel assembly.

8. Pry out seals and inspect bearings for wear or damage and replace if necessary.

9. Pack the bearings with a general-purpose grease.

10. Insert 1 bearing and 1 new seal into the wheel.

11. If the axle assembly is missing both spacer nuts, apply a thread-locking compound to 1 spacer nut and thread it onto the axle with the wrench flats facing outward.

    Note: Do not thread the spacer nut all of the way onto the end of the axle. Leave approximately 3 mm (1/8 inch) from the outer surface of the spacer nut to the end of the axle inside the nut.

12. Insert the assembled nut and axle into the wheel on the side with the new seal and bearing.

13. With the open end of the wheel facing up, fill the area inside the wheel around the axle full of general-purpose grease.

14. Insert the second bearing and new seal into the wheel.

15. Apply a thread-locking compound to the second spacer nut, and thread it onto the axle with the wrench flats facing outward.

16. Torque the nut to 8 to 9 N∙m (75 to 80 in-lb), loosen the nut, then torque it to 2 to 3 N∙m (20 to 25 in-lb).

    Note: Make sure that the axle does not extend beyond either nut.

17. Install the seal guards over the wheel hub, and insert the wheel into the caster fork.

18. Install the caster bolt and tighten the nut fully.

Important: To prevent seal and bearing damage, check the bearing adjustment often. Spin the caster tire. The tire should not spin freely (more than 1 or 2 revolutions) or have any side play. If the wheel spins freely, adjust the torque on the spacer nut until there is a slight amount of drag. Apply another layer of thread-locking compound.

Use the following graphic to identify the engine you have and proceed to the section listed below for service (Figure 45).

Figure 45

1. Kawasaki engine
2. Toro engine
3. Briggs and Stratton engine

• For Kawasaki engine maintenance, refer to Servicing a Kawasaki® Engine.

• For Toro engine maintenance, refer to Servicing a Toro Engine.

• For Briggs and Stratton engine maintenance, refer to Servicing a Briggs and Stratton® Engine.

This section is only for machines with Kawasaki engines. If your engine looks like the one shown in Figure 46, you have a Kawasaki engine.

Important: Refer to your engine owner’s manual for additional maintenance procedures.

Figure 46

Servicing the Engine Oil

Maintenance Service Interval	Maintenance Procedure
Before each use or daily	For Kawasaki engines—check the engine-oil level.
Every 100 hours	For Kawasaki engines—change the engine oil(more often in dirty or dusty conditions).
Every 200 hours	For Kawasaki engines—change the engine-oil filter(more often in dirty or dusty conditions).

Engine-Oil Specifications

Oil Type: Detergent oil (API service SF, SG, SH, SJ, or SL)

Crankcase Capacity: 1.8 L (61 fl oz) without the oil filter; 2.1 L (71 fl oz) with the oil filter

Viscosity: See the table below.

Figure 48

Note: Although 10W-40 engine oil is recommended for most conditions, you may need to change oil viscosity to accommodate atmospheric conditions. Using 20W-50 engine oil in higher ambient temperatures can reduce oil consumption.

Checking the Engine-Oil Level

Note: Check the oil when the engine is cold.

Important: If you overfill or underfill the engine crankcase with oil and run the engine, you may damage the engine.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

   Note: Ensure that the engine is cool so that the oil has had time to drain into the sump.

3. To keep dirt, grass clippings, etc., out of the engine, clean the area around the oil-fill cap and dipstick before removing it (Figure 49).

Figure 49

Changing the Engine Oil

Note: Dispose of the used oil at a recycling center.

1. Start the engine and let it run for 5 minutes.

   Note: This warms the oil so that it drains better.

2. Park the machine so that the drain side is slightly lower than the opposite side to ensure that the oil drains completely.

3. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO) and engage the parking brake.

4. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

5. Drain the oil from the engine (Figure 50).

   

   Figure 50

6. Slowly pour approximately 80% of the specified oil into the filler tube and slowly add the additional oil to bring it to the Full mark (Figure 51).

   

   Figure 51

7. Start the engine and drive to a flat area.

8. Check the oil level again.

Changing the Engine-Oil Filter

1. Drain the oil from the engine; refer to Changing the Engine Oil.

2. Change the engine-oil filter (Figure 52).

   

   Figure 52

   Note: Ensure that the oil-filter gasket touches the engine, and then turn the oil filter an extra 3/4 turn.

3. Fill the crankcase with the proper type of new oil; refer to Engine-Oil Specifications.

Servicing the Spark Plug(s)

Maintenance Service Interval	Maintenance Procedure
Every 100 hours	For Kawasaki engines—replace or clean and gap the spark plug.

Ensure that the air gap between the center and side electrodes is correct before installing the spark plug. Use a spark plug wrench for removing and installing the spark plug and a gapping tool or feeler gauge to check and adjust the air gap. Install a new spark plug if necessary.

Type of Spark Plug: NGK^® BPR4ES or equivalent

Air Gap: 0.75 mm (0.03 inch)

Removing the Spark Plug(s)

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Clean the area around the base of the plug to keep dirt and debris out of the engine.

4. Locate and remove the spark plug(s) as shown in Figure 53.

   

   Figure 53

Checking the Spark Plug(s)

Important: Do not clean the spark plug(s). Always replace the spark plug(s) when it has a black coating, worn electrodes, an oily film, or cracks.

If you see light brown or gray on the insulator, the engine is operating properly. A black coating on the insulator usually means the air cleaner is dirty.

Set the gap to 0.75 mm (0.03 inch).

Figure 54

Installing the Spark Plug(s)

Figure 55

This section is only for machines with Toro engines. If your engine looks like the one shown in Figure 56, you have a Toro engine.

Figure 56

Servicing the Engine Oil

Maintenance Service Interval	Maintenance Procedure
After the first 5 hours	For Toro engines—change the engine oil and filter.
Before each use or daily	For Toro engines—check the engine-oil level.

Engine-Oil Specifications

Oil Type: Detergent oil (API service SF, SG, SH, SJ, or SL)

Crankcase Capacity: 2.4 L (81 fl oz) with oil filter

Viscosity: See the table below.

Figure 58

Checking the Engine-Oil Level

Note: Check the oil when the engine is cold.

Important: If you overfill or underfill the engine crankcase with oil and run the engine, you may damage the engine.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

   Note: Ensure that the engine is cool so that the oil has had time to drain into the sump.

3. To keep dirt, grass clippings, etc., out of the engine, clean the area around the oil-fill cap and dipstick before removing it (Figure 49).

Figure 59

Changing the Engine Oil and Oil Filter

1. Park the machine on a level surface to ensure that the oil drains completely.

2. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO) and engage the parking brake.

3. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

4. Drain the oil from the engine.

   

   Figure 60

5. Change the engine-oil filter (Figure 61).

   Note: Ensure that the oil-filter gasket touches the engine and then turn the filter an extra 3/4 turn.

   

   Figure 61

6. Slowly pour approximately 80% of the specified oil into the filler tube and slowly add the additional oil to bring it to the Full mark (Figure 62).

   

   Figure 62

7. Dispose of the used oil at a recycling center.

Servicing the Spark Plug(s)

Maintenance Service Interval	Maintenance Procedure
Every 200 hours	For Toro engines—replace the spark plug(s).

Ensure that the air gap between the center and side electrodes is correct before installing the spark plug. Use a spark plug wrench for removing and installing the spark plug and a gapping tool or feeler gauge to check and adjust the air gap. Install a new spark plug if necessary.

Type: Champion^® RN9YC or NGK^® BPR6ES

Air gap: 0.76 mm (0.03 inch)

Removing the Spark Plug(s)

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Clean the area around the base of the plug to keep dirt and debris out of the engine.

4. Locate and remove the spark plug(s) as shown in Figure 64.

   

   Figure 63

Checking the Spark Plug(s)

Important: Do not clean the spark plug(s). Always replace the spark plug(s) when it has a black coating, worn electrodes, an oily film, or cracks.

If you see light brown or gray on the insulator, the engine is operating properly. A black coating on the insulator usually means the air cleaner is dirty.

Set the gap to 0.76 mm (0.03 inch).

Figure 64

Installing the Spark Plug(s)

Figure 65

To ensure proper cooling, ensure that the grass screen, cooling fins, and other external surfaces of the engine are kept clean at all times.

Important: Operating the engine with a blocked grass screen, dirty or plugged cooling fins, and/or cooling shrouds removed, will cause engine damage due to overheating.

Before each use remove any buildup of grass, dirt, or other debris from the engine screen, engine exhaust, engine-oil cooler, and the area around the engine. This helps ensure adequate cooling and correct engine speed and reduces the possibility of overheating and mechanical damage to the engine.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the PTO, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Remove the air-intake screen and fan housing.

4. Clean the debris and grass from the engine parts.

5. Install the air-intake screen and the fan housing.

   

   Figure 75

   1. Guard and engine air-intake screen
   2. Fan housing
   3. Engine-oil cooler

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the PTO, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Wait for the muffler to cool.

4. If you see any breaks in the screen or welds, replace the arrester.

5. If the screen is plugged, remove the arrester, shake loose particles out of the arrester, and clean the screen with a wire brush (soak the screen in solvent if necessary).

6. Install the arrester on the exhaust outlet.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Remove the filter from the vent hose.

4. Insert a new filter into the end of the vent hose.

Important: Install the fuel line hoses and secure with plastic ties the same as they were originally installed at the factory to keep the fuel line away from components that can cause fuel line damage.

Never install a dirty filter after removing it from the fuel line.

The fuel filter is located near the engine on the left front of the engine.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Allow the machine to cool down.

4. Replace the fuel filter (Figure 76).

   Note: Ensure that the flow-direction arrow on the replacement filter points toward the engine.

   

   Figure 76

Do not attempt to drain the fuel tank. Ensure that an Authorized Service Dealer drains the fuel tank and services any components of the fuel system.

The electrical system is protected by fuses. It requires no maintenance; however, if a fuse blows check the component and circuit for a malfunction or short.

The fuses are located in the rear, near the engine (Figure 80).

1. To replace the fuses, pull out the fuse to remove it.

2. Install a new fuse (Figure 80).

   

   Figure 80

   1. Fuse block

Inspect the seat belt for wear, cuts, and proper operation of the retractor and buckle. Replace the seat belt if it is damaged.

1. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO).

2. Drive to an open, flat area and move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position.

3. Move the throttle midway between the FAST and SLOW positions.

4. Move both motion-control levers forward until they both hit the stops in the T-slot.

5. Check which way the machine tracks.

6. If the machine tracks to the right, insert a 3/16 inch hex wrench through the access hole in the left, front cover panel and rotate the tracking screw clockwise or counterclockwise to adjust the travel of the lever (Figure 81).

7. If the machine tracks to the left, insert a 3/16 inch hex wrench through the access hole in the right, front cover panel and rotate the tracking screw clockwise or counterclockwise to adjust the travel of the lever (Figure 81).

8. Drive the machine and check the full forward tracking.

9. Repeat the adjustment until the desired tracking is obtained.

   

   Figure 81

   Right control lever shown

   1. Access hole on the front cover panel
   2. Tracking screw

Maintain the air pressure in the caster tires and rear tires at 90 kPa (13 psi). Uneven tire pressure can cause uneven cut. Check the tires when they are cold to get the most accurate pressure reading.

Figure 82

Check and torque the wheel lug nuts to 122 to 136 N∙m (90 to 100 ft-lb).

If you need to adjust the parking brake, contact an Authorized Service Dealer.

Replace the belt if it is worn. The signs of a worn belt include squealing while the belt is rotating; the blades slipping while cutting grass; and frayed edges, burn marks, and cracks on the belt.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Lower the mower to the 76 mm (3 inches) height of cut.

4. Remove the belt covers (Figure 83).

   

   Figure 83

5. Use a 3/8-inch ratchet in the square hole in the idler arm to remove tension on the idler spring (Figure 84).

6. Remove the belt from the mower-deck pulleys and the clutch pulley.

7. Remove the belt guide on the spring-loaded idler arm (Figure 84).

8. Remove the existing belt.

9. Install the new belt around the mower pulleys and the clutch pulley under the engine (Figure 84).

   

   Figure 84

   1. Spring
   2. Clutch pulley
   3. Mower belt
   4. Spring-loaded idler assembly
   5. Ratchet
   6. Square hole in the idler arm for the ratchet

10. Install the belt guide on the idler arm (Figure 84).

11. Using the 3/8-inch ratchet in the square hole, install the idler spring (Figure 84).

    Note: Ensure that the spring ends are seated in the anchor grooves.

12. Install the belt covers (Figure 85).

    

    Figure 85

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Remove the mower belt; refer to Replacing the Mower Belt.

4. Raise the machine and support it with jack stands.

5. Use a 1/2-inch ratchet or breaker bar in one of the square holes in the idler arm to remove tension on the idler spring (Figure 86).

6. Remove the existing belt from the idler pulley, 2 hydraulic-pump-drive pulleys, and engine pulley (Figure 86).

7. Install the new belt around the idler pulley, engine pulley, and 2 hydraulic-pump pulleys (Figure 86).

8. Using the 1/2-inch ratchet or breaker bar in one of the square holes, install the idler spring.

   Note: Ensure that the spring ends are seated in the anchor grooves.

9. Install the mower belt; refer to Replacing the Mower Belt.

   

   Figure 86

   1. Fixed idler pulley
   2. Engine pulley
   3. Idler-spring post
   4. Idler pulley
   5. Right hydraulic-pump pulley
   6. Square hole in the idler arm for the ratchet
   7. Mower belt
   8. Hydraulic pump-drive belt
   9. Left hydraulic-pump pulley

If the ends of the levers hit against each other, refer to Adjusting the Motion-Control Linkage.

Located on either side of the machine, below the seat, are the pump-control linkages. Rotating the end nut with a 1/2-inch deep socket wrench allows fine tuning adjustments so that the machine does not move in neutral. Any adjustments should be made for neutral positioning only.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Push the deck-lift pedal, remove the height-of-cut pin, and lower the mower deck to the ground

4. Raise the rear of the machine up and support it with jack stands (or equivalent support) just high enough to allow the drive wheels to turn freely.

5. Remove the electrical connection from the seat safety switch, located under the bottom cushion of the seat.

   Note: The switch is a part of the seat assembly.

6. Temporarily install a jumper wire across the terminals in the connector of the main wire harness.

7. Start the engine, run it at full throttle, and disengage the parking brake.

   Note: Before starting the engine, ensure that the parking brake is engaged and that the motion-control levers are out. You do not have to be in the seat.

8. Run the machine at least 5 minutes with the drive levers at full forward speed to bring the hydraulic fluid up to the operating temperature.

   Note: The motion-control levers must be in neutral while you are making any adjustments.

9. Bring the motion-control levers into the NEUTRAL position.

10. Adjust the pump-control-rod lengths by rotating the nut in the appropriate direction until the wheels slightly creep in reverse (Figure 89).

    

    Figure 89

    1. Access hole for 1/2-inch socket
    2. Nut

11. Move the motion-control levers to the REVERSE position and while applying slight pressure to the lever, allow the return-to-neutral springs to bring the levers back to neutral.

    Note: The wheels should stop turning or slightly creep in reverse.

12. Shut off the machine.

13. Remove the jumper wire from the wire harness and plug the connector into the seat switch.

14. Remove the jack stands.

15. Raise the mower deck and install the height-of-cut pin.

16. Check and ensure that the machine does not creep in neutral with the parking brake disengaged.

Hydraulic Fluid Type: Toro^® HYPR-OIL^™ 500 hydraulic fluid

Important: Use the specified fluid. Other fluids could damage the hydraulic system.

Hydraulic System Capacity (with filters removed): 1.7 L (1.8 US qt)

1. Allow the hydraulic fluid to cool down. Check the fluid level when the fluid is cold.

2. Remove the transaxle top port plug from each side and ensure that fluid appears at the bottom of each transaxle top port (Figure 90).

   If necessary, add Toro^® HYPR-OIL^™ 500 hydraulic fluid through the fill port until the fluid appears at the bottom of each transaxle top port (Figure 90and Figure 91).

   

   Figure 90

   1. Top port plug

To replace the hydraulic fluid, the filters need to be removed. Replace both at the same time; refer to Hydraulic-Fluid Specifications for fluid specifications.

Purge any air in the system after you install the new filters and add fluid; refer to Bleeding the Hydraulic System. Repeat the bleeding process until the fluid remains at the FULL COLD line in the reservoir after purging. Failure to properly perform this procedure can result in irreparable damage to the transaxle drive system.

Installing the Hydraulic-System Filters

1. Apply a thin coat of hydraulic fluid on the surface of the rubber seal of each filter.

2. Turn the filter clockwise until the rubber seal contacts the filter adapter, then tighten the filter an additional 3/4 to 1 full turn.

3. Repeat for the opposite filter.

4. Install the filter guards over each filter that you previously removed.

5. Use the 3 screws to secure the filter guards.

6. Verify that the vent plugs are removed before adding the fluid.

7. Remove the top port plug (Figure 91) from the left side and right side transaxles prior to filling with oil.

   This will allow the transaxles to vent during oil fill.

8. Fill with the specified fluid until fluid appears at the bottom of each transaxle top port.

9. Install the top port plug into each transaxle as the oil level reaches this port (Figure 91).

10. Torque the plugs to 20 N∙m (15 ft-lb).

11. Proceed to Bleeding the Hydraulic System.

    Important: Failure to perform the Bleeding the Hydraulic System procedure after changing hydraulic filters and fluid can result in irreparable damage to the transaxle drive system.

Figure 92

1. Raise the rear of machine and support it with jack stands (or equivalent support) just high enough to allow the drive wheels to turn freely.

   

   Figure 93

   1. Jacking points

2. Start the engine, move the throttle control ahead to the 1/2 throttle position, and disengage the parking brake.

   1. Move the bypass levers into the pushing the machine position. With the bypass valves open and the engine running, slowly move the motion-control levers in both forward and reverse 5 or 6 times.

   2. Move the bypass levers into the operating the machine position.

   3. With the bypass valve closed and the engine running, slowly move the control lever in both forward and reverse directions 5 to 6 times.

3. Repeat step 2 until all the air is completely purged from the system.

   Note: When the transaxle operates at normal noise levels, moves smoothly forward, and reverses at normal speeds, it is purged.

4. Check the fluid level; refer to Checking the Hydraulic-Fluid Level.

Check to ensure that the mower deck is level any time you install the mower or when you see an uneven cut on your lawn.

Check the mower deck for bent blades prior to leveling, and remove and replace any bent blades; refer to Checking for Bent Blades before continuing.

Level the mower deck side-to-side first; then you can adjust the front-to-rear slope.

Requirements:

• The machine must be on a level surface.

• All tires must be properly inflated; refer to Checking the Tire Pressure.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Check the tire pressure in the drive tires; refer to Checking the Tire Pressure.

4. Position the mower deck in the transport-lock position or the highest height-of-cut setting.

5. Carefully rotate the blades from side to side.

6. Measure between the blade tip and the flat surface (Figure 102). If both measurements are not within 5 mm (3/16 inch), adjust the leveling; continue with this procedure.

   

   Figure 102

   1. Blades side to side
   2. Blade tip
   3. Measure from the tip of the blade to the flat surface here.

7. Check the front-to-rear blade level (Figure 103). Ensure the front blade tip is lower than the rear blade tip as shown in the block height and rake table. If adjustment is needed, continue with this procedure.

   

   Figure 103

   1. Blades front to rear
   2. Blade tip
   3. Measure from the tip of the blade to the flat surface here.

8. Set the anti-scalp rollers to top holes or remove them completely for this adjustment.

9. Raise the deck to the transport position (127 mm or 5 inches).

10. Slowly loosen the adjusting screw on the lift-assist spring until you can remove the screw (Figure 104).

    Note: Save the screw for installation.

    

    Figure 104

    1. Adjusting screw
    2. Bracket
    3. Set the gap to 22 to 29 mm (7/8 to 1-1/8 inches).

11. Place 2 blocks (see Block Height and Rake Table) under the rear edge of the cutting deck skirt; 1 on each side of the cutting deck (Figure 105).

12. Set the height-of-cut lever to the 76 mm (3 inches) position; refer to Adjusting the Height of Cut.

13. Place 2 blocks under each side of the front edge of the deck, but not under the anti-scalp roller brackets or welds.

    

    Figure 105

    Bottom view

    1. Block—73 mm (2-7/8 inches)
    2. Welds

    Block Height and Rake Table

    Deck Size	Front Block Height	Rake
    All mower decks	73 mm (2-7/8 inches)	4.8 to 6.4 mm (3/16 to 1/4 inch)

14. Carefully rotate the blades side to side (Figure 102).

15. Lower the mower deck to the 76 mm (3 inches) position; refer to Adjusting the Height of Cut.

16. Loosen the bolts (Figure 106) on all 4 corners and ensure that the mower deck is sitting securely on all 4 blocks.

17. Remove any slack from the deck hangers and make sure the deck-lift foot lever is pushed back against the stop.

18. Tighten the 4 bolts.

    

    Figure 106

    1. Deck-lift arm bolts

19. Ensure that the blocks fit snugly under the deck skirt and that all attachment bolts are tight

20. Continue leveling the deck by checking the front-to-rear blade slope.

21. Check the blades for levelness and repeat deck leveling procedure if necessary.

22. Raise the deck to the transport position (127 mm or 5 inches).

23. Install the lift-assist spring adjusting screw previously removed in step 10.

24. Set the gap between the spring and the bracket to 22 to 29 mm (7/8 to 1-1/8 inches).

Before servicing or removing the mower deck, lock out the spring-loaded deck arms.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Place the height-adjustment pin in the 76 mm (3 inches) cutting-height location.

4. Remove the belt covers.

5. Loosen the mower deck idler and remove the mower belt; refer to Belt Maintenance.

6. Remove the bolts and nuts from the front of the plate under the footrest.

7. Remove and retain the bolts and nuts on both sides of the machine (Figure 107).

8. Slide the deck out to the right side of the machine.

   

   Figure 107

   1. Remove the nuts and bolts here.

1. Remove the locknut, bolt, spring, and spacer holding the deflector to the pivot brackets (Figure 108).

2. Remove the damaged or worn grass deflector (Figure 108).

   

   Figure 108

   1. Bolt
   2. Spacer
   3. Locknut
   4. Spring
   5. Spring installed
   6. Grass deflector
   7. J-hook end of spring

3. Place the spacer and the spring onto grass deflector.

4. Place 1 J-hook end of the spring behind the deck edge.

   Note: Make sure that 1 J-hook end of the spring is installed behind the deck edge before installing the bolt as shown in Figure 108.

5. Install the bolt and the nut.

6. Place 1 J-hook end of the spring around the grass deflector (Figure 108).

   Important: The grass deflector must be able to rotate. Lift the deflector up to the full open position and ensure that it rotates into the full down position.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Raise the mower deck to the TRANSPORT position.

Use compressed air to clean the suspension system.

Note: Do not clean the shock assemblies with pressurized water (Figure 109).

Figure 109

Engine oil, batteries, hydraulic fluid, and engine coolant are pollutants to the environment. Dispose of these according to your state and local regulations.