22-inch Rotary Cutting Unit

This blade was designed to provide excellent lift and dispersion in almost any condition. If more or less lift and discharge velocity is required, consider a different blade.

Attributes: Excellent lift and dispersion in most conditions

The blade generally performs best in lower heights of cut—1.9 to 6.4 cm (3/4 to 2-1/2 inches).

Attributes:

• Discharge remains more even at lower heights of cut.

• Discharge has less tendency to throw left and thus a cleaner look around bunkers and fairways.

• Lower power requirement at lower heights and dense turf.

The blade generally performs better in the higher heights of cut—7 to 10 cm (2 to 4 inches).

Attributes:

• More lift and higher discharge velocity

• Sparse or limp turf is picked up significantly at higher heights of cut

• Wet or sticky clippings are discharged more efficiently reducing congestion in the deck

• Requires more horsepower to run

• Tends to discharge further left and can tend to windrow at lower heights of cut

This blade was designed to provide excellent leaf mulching.

Attribute: Excellent leaf mulching

Mow either in the late morning to avoid the dew, which causes grass clumping, or in late afternoon to avoid the damage that can be caused by direct sunlight on the sensitive, freshly mowed grass.

Remove no more than approximately 25 mm (1 inch), or 1/3 of the grass blade when cutting. In exceptionally lush and dense grass, you may need to raise your height-of-cut setting.

A sharp blade cuts cleanly and without tearing or shredding the grass blades. A dull blade, which tears and shreds grass, causes grass to turn brown at the edges. This impairs grass growth and increases susceptibility to diseases. Ensure that the blade is in good condition and that there is a full sail.

Ensure that the chambers of each cutting unit are in good condition. Straighten any chamber-component bends to ensure the correct blade tip/chamber clearance.

To ensure that optimum performance is met, clean the underside of mower housing. If you allow residue to build up in mower housing, cutting performance will decrease.

The rotary deck comes from the factory preset at 5 cm (2 inches) height of cut and blade rake of 7.9 mm (0.310 inch). The left and right heights are also preset to within ± 0.7 mm (0.030 inch) of the other.

The cutting deck is designed to withstand blade impacts without deformation of the chamber. If a solid object is struck, inspect the blade for damage and the blade plane for accuracy.

Replace the blade if it hits a solid object, is out of balance, or is bent. Always use genuine Toro replacement blades to ensure safety and optimum performance.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, raise the cutting unit to the transport position, engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

   Note: Block or lock the cutting unit to prevent it from accidentally falling.

2. Grasp the end of the blade using a rag or thickly-padded glove.

3. Remove the blade bolt, anti-scalp cup, and blade from the spindle shaft (Figure 16).

   

   Figure 16

   1. Blade bolt
   2. Anti-scalp cup

4. Install the blade, anti-scalp cup, and blade bolt and tighten the blade bolt to 115 to 149 N∙m (85 to 110 ft-lb).

   Important: The curved part of the blade must be pointing toward the inside of the cutting unit to ensure proper cutting.

   Note: 7After striking a foreign object, torque all spindle-pulley nuts to 115 to 149 N∙m (85 to 110 ft-lb).

1. Raise the cutting deck to the transport position, turn the key in the ignition switch to the OFF position, and engage the parking brake.

2. Block the cutting deck to prevent it from falling accidentally.

3. Examine the cutting ends of the blade carefully, especially where the flat and curved parts of the blade meet (Figure 17).

   Note: Since sand and abrasive material can wear away the metal that connects the flat and curved parts of the blade, check the blade before using the machine.

4. If wear is noticed (Figure 17), replace the blade; refer to Servicing the Blade Plane.

   Danger

   If the blade is allowed to wear, a slot will form between the sail and flat part of the blade (Figure 17). Eventually a piece of the blade may break off and be thrown from under the housing, possibly resulting in serious injury to yourself or bystanders.

   • Inspect the blade periodically for wear or damage.

   • Always replace a worn or damaged blade.

   

   Figure 17

   1. Cutting edge
   2. Sail
   3. Wear/slot/crack

5. Inspect the cutting edges of all blades. Sharpen the cutting edges if they are dull or nicked. Sharpen only the top of the cutting edge and maintain the original cutting angle to make sure that it is sharp (Figure 18).

6. If dull or nicked, sharpen only the top cutting edge while maintaining the original cutting angle (Figure 18).

   Note: The blade will remain balanced if the same amount of metal is removed from both cutting edges.

   

   Figure 18

   1. Sharpen at this angle only

7. To check the blade for being straight and parallel, lay the blade on a level surface and check its ends.

   Note: Position the ends of the blade slightly lower than the center, and the cutting edge lower than the heel of the blade. This blade produces a good quality of cut and requires minimal power from the engine. By contrast a blade that is higher at the ends than the center, or if cutting edge is higher than the heel, the blade is bent or warped and must be replaced.

   

   Figure 19

   1. Cutting edge
   2. Heel

8. Install the blade, sail facing toward cutting deck, with the anti-scalp cup and blade bolt. Torque the blade bolt to 115 to 149 N∙m (85 to 110 ft-lb).

The blades of the cutting deck should come to a complete stop in approximately 5 seconds after you shut down the cutting-deck-engagement switch.

Note: Make sure that the decks are lowered onto a clean section of turf or hard surface to avoid thrown dust and debris.

1. Have a second person stand back from the deck at least 6 m (20 feet) and watch the blades on 1 of the cutting decks.

2. Shut the cutting decks down and record the time it takes for the blades to come to a complete stop.

   Note: If this time is greater than 7 seconds, the braking valve needs adjustment. Call your authorized Toro distributor for assistance in making this adjustment.

1. Remove the roller-mounting bolt (Figure 20).

2. Insert a punch through the end of the roller housing and drive the opposite bearing out by alternating taps to the opposite side of inner bearing race. There should be a 1.5 mm (0.060 inch) lip of inner race exposed.

   

   Figure 20

   1. Front roller
   2. Mounting bolt
   3. Bearing
   4. Bearing spacer

3. Push the second bearing out in press.

4. Inspect the roller housing, bearings, and bearing spacer for damage (Figure 20). Replace any damaged components and assemble them.

1. Press the first bearing into the roller housing (Figure 20). Press on the outer race only or equally on the inner and outer race.

2. Insert the spacer (Figure 20).

3. Press the second bearing into the roller housing (Figure 20). Pressing equally on the inner and outer race until the inner race contacts the spacer.

4. Install the roller assembly into the cutting-unit frame.

5. Verify that there is no more than a 1.5 mm (0.060 inch) gap between roller assembly and the roller mount brackets of the cutting-unit frame. If there is a gap over 1.5 mm (0.060 inch), install enough 5/8-inch diameter washers to take up the slop.

   Important: Securing the roller assembly with a gap larger than 1.5 mm (0.060 inch) creates a side load on the bearing and can lead to premature bearing failure

6. Torque the mounting bolt to 108 N∙m (80 ft-lb).