Z Master® Professional 5000 Series Riding Mower

The fuel gauge is located within the hour meter, and the bars light up when the key switch is in the ON position (Figure 6).

The indicator light appears when the fuel level is low (approximately 1 gallon remaining in the fuel tank).

There are symbols on the hour meter that indicate with a black triangle that the interlock component is positioned correctly (Figure 7).

If you turn the key switch to the ON position for a few seconds, the battery voltage displays in the area where the hours are normally displayed.

The battery light turns on when the key switch is turned on and when the charge is below the correct operating level (Figure 6).

The electronic-control unit (ECU) continuously monitors the operation of the EFI system.

If a problem or fault within the system is detected, the malfunction-indicator light (MIL) illuminates.

The MIL is the red light located in the right console panel.

Once the MIL illuminates, make initial troubleshooting checks; refer to the MIL section under .

If these checks do not correct the problem, further diagnosis and servicing by an Authorized Service Dealer is necessary.

The LED is multi-colored to indicate the system status and is located on the right side of the panel.

• Solid Green—indicates normal operating activity.

• Blinking Red—indicates a fault is active.

• Blinking Green and Orange—indicates a clutch reset is required.

• Solid Red—indicates maintenance is required.

Refer to the Software Guide for more information.

When the fuel-tank level is low, the LED status light flashes a red light and the fuel-level symbol on the screen flashes.

Refer to the Software Guide for more information.

There are symbols on the hour meter that indicate with a black bar that the interlock component is positioned correctly (Figure 7).

Before starting the machine each day, perform the Each Use/Daily procedures listed in .

New engines take time to develop full power. Mower decks and drive systems have higher friction when new, placing additional load on the engine. Allow 40 to 50 hours of break-in time for new machines to develop full power and best performance.

The seat can move forward and backward. Position the seat where you have the best control of the machine and are most comfortable (Figure 12).

Figure 12

To unlatch the seat, push the seat latch forward (Figure 13).

Figure 13

1. Seat latch
2. Seat

The seat is adjustable to provide a smooth and comfortable ride. Position the seat where you are most comfortable.

To adjust it, turn the knob in front either direction to provide the best comfort (Figure 14).

Figure 14

1. Seat-suspension knob

Always engage the parking brake when you stop the machine or leave it unattended.

Engaging the Parking Brake

Park the machine on a level surface.

Figure 17

Disengaging the Parking Brake

Figure 18

The blade-control switch (PTO) starts and stops the mower blades and any powered attachments.

Engaging the Blade-Control Switch (PTO)

Note: Engaging the blade-control switch (PTO) with the throttle position at half or less causes excessive wear to the drive belts.

Figure 19

Disengaging the Blade-Control Switch (PTO)

Figure 20

You can move the throttle control between FAST and SLOW positions (Figure 21).

Always use the FAST position when engaging the PTO.

Figure 21

Important: Do not engage starter for more than 5 seconds at a time. If the engine fails to start, wait 15 seconds between attempts. Failure to follow these instructions can burn out the starter motor.

Note: You may need multiple attempts to start the engine the first time after adding fuel to an empty fuel system.

Figure 22

Figure 23

Important: Make sure that the fuel-shutoff valve is closed before transporting or storing the machine, as fuel leakage may occur. Engage the parking brake before transporting. Make sure that you remove the key as the fuel pump may run and cause the battery to lose charge.

The drive wheels turn independently, powered by hydraulic motors on each axle. You can turn 1 side in reverse while you turn the other forward, causing the machine to spin rather than turn. This greatly improves the machine maneuverability but may require some time for you to adapt to how it moves.

The throttle control regulates the engine speed as measured in rpm (revolutions per minute). Place the throttle control in the FAST position for best performance. Always operate in the full throttle position when mowing.

The mower has a hinged grass deflector that disperses clippings to the side and down toward the turf.

Mount the skids in the lower position when operating in height of cuts higher than 64 mm (2-1/2 inches) and in the higher position when operating in height of cuts lower than 64 mm (2-1/2 inches).

Note: When the skids become worn, switch the skid to the opposite sides of the mower, flipping them over. This allows you to use the skids longer before replacing them.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Remove the carriage bolts and nuts from each skid (Figure 34).

   

   Figure 34

   1. Carriage bolt
   2. Skid
   3. Nut

4. Move each skid to the desired position and secure them with the carriage bolts and nuts.

   Note: Only use the top or center sets of holes to adjust the skids. The bottom holes are used when switching sides on the mower deck, at which time they become the top holes on the other side of the mower.

5. To prevent damaging the skid, torque the carriage bolts and nuts for each skid to 12.4 to 14.7 N∙m (110 to 130 in-lb).

This procedure applies only to machines with the flow baffle knob. Certain models have nuts and bolts instead of the flow baffle knob that you can adjust the same way.

You can adjust the mower discharge flow for different types of mowing conditions. Position the knob and baffle to give the best quality of cut.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Loosen the knob.

4. Slide the knob to the desired position.

5. Tighten the knob.

The following figures are recommendations only. Adjustments vary by grass type, moisture content, and the height of the grass.

Note: If the engine power draws down and the mower ground speed is the same, open the baffle.

Position B

Use this position when bagging. Always align it with the blower opening.

Figure 36

The fuel-shutoff valve is located under the seat. Move the seat forward to access it.

Close the fuel-shutoff valve for transport, maintenance, and storage.

Ensure that the fuel-shutoff valve is open when starting the engine.

Figure 38

1. ON position
2. OFF position

The drive-wheel-release valves are located in the back of each hydraulic-drive unit, under the seat.

Note: Make sure that the release valves are in the fully horizontal position when operating the machine; otherwise, severe damage to the hydraulic system can occur.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Rotate the release-valve levers vertically to push the machine (Figure 39).

   Note: This allows hydraulic fluid to bypass the pump, enabling the wheels to turn.

4. Disengage the parking brake before pushing the machine.

   

   Figure 39

   1. Vertical to push the machine
   2. Horizontal to run the machine

5. Rotate the release valve levers horizontally to run the machine (Figure 39).

Use a heavy-duty trailer or truck to transport the machine. Use a full-width ramp. Ensure that the trailer or truck has all the necessary brakes, lighting, and marking as required by law. Please carefully read all the safety instructions. Knowing this information could help you or bystanders avoid injury. Refer to your local ordinances for trailer and tie-down requirements.

Selecting a Trailer

Warning

Loading a machine onto a trailer or truck increases the possibility of tip-over and could cause serious injury or death (Figure 40).

• Use only a full-width ramp; do not use individual ramps for each side of the machine.

• Do not exceed a 15-degree angle between the ramp and the ground or between the ramp and the trailer or truck.

• Ensure that the length of the ramp is at least 4 times as long as the height of the trailer or truck bed to the ground. This ensures that the ramp angle does not exceed 15 degrees on flat ground.

Figure 40

1. Full-width ramp in stowed position
2. Side view of full-width ramp in loading position
3. Not greater than 15 degrees
4. Ramp is at least 4 times as long as the height of the trailer or truck bed to the ground
5. H=height of the trailer or truck bed to the ground
6. Trailer

Grease the machine more often in dirty or dusty conditions.

Grease Type: No. 2 lithium or molybdenum grease

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Clean the grease fittings with a rag.

   Note: Scrape any paint off the front of the fitting(s).

4. Connect a grease gun to the fitting.

5. Pump grease into the fittings until grease begins to ooze out of the bearings.

6. Wipe up any excess grease.

Use light oil or spray lubricant to lubricate the deck-lift pivots.

Figure 43

Machine with Side Discharge Shown

Figure 44

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Grease the mower deck idler-pulley pivot until grease comes out the bottom (Figure 45 or Figure 46).

   

   Figure 45

   Machine with Side Discharge Shown

   

   Figure 46

   Machine with Rear Discharge Shown

4. Grease the drive-belt idler arms (Figure 47).

   

   Figure 47

5. Grease the deck-belt idler arms (rear discharge machines only) as shown in Figure 48.

   

   Figure 48

   Machines with Rear Discharge Only

6. Remove the dust cap and adjust the caster pivots.

   Note: Keep the dust cap off until greasing is done.

7. Remove the hex plug.

8. Thread a grease fitting into the hole.

9. Pump grease into the fitting until it oozes out around the top bearing.

10. Remove the grease fitting in the hole.

11. Install the hex plug and dust cap (Figure 49).

    

    Figure 49

12. Grease the caster-wheel bearings (Figure 49).

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Remove the dust cap and adjust the caster pivots and keep the dust cap off until greasing is done; refer to Greasing the Mower Deck.

4. Remove the hex plug.

5. Thread a grease fitting into the hole.

6. Pump grease into the fitting until it oozes out around the top bearing.

7. Remove the grease fitting from the hole. Install the hex plug and cap.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Raise the mower for access.

4. Remove the caster wheel from the caster forks.

5. Remove the seal guards from the wheel hub.

   

   Figure 50

   1. Seal guard
   2. Spacer nut with wrench flats

6. Remove a spacer nut from the axle assembly in the caster wheel.

   Note: Thread-locking compound has been applied to lock the spacer nuts to the axle.

7. Remove the axle (with the other spacer nut still assembled to it) from the wheel assembly.

8. Pry out seals and inspect bearings for wear or damage and replace if necessary.

9. Pack the bearings with a general-purpose grease.

10. Insert 1 bearing and 1 new seal into the wheel.

11. If the axle assembly is missing both spacer nuts, apply a thread-locking compound to 1 spacer nut and thread it onto the axle with the wrench flats facing outward.

    Note: Do not thread the spacer nut all of the way onto the end of the axle. Leave approximately 3 mm (1/8 inch) from the outer surface of the spacer nut to the end of the axle inside the nut.

12. Insert the assembled nut and axle into the wheel on the side with the new seal and bearing.

13. With the open end of the wheel facing up, fill the area inside the wheel around the axle full of general-purpose grease.

14. Insert the second bearing and new seal into the wheel.

15. Apply a thread-locking compound to the second spacer nut, and thread it onto the axle with the wrench flats facing outward.

16. Torque the nut to 8 to 9 N∙m (75 to 80 in-lb), loosen the nut, then torque it to 2 to 3 N∙m (20 to 25 in-lb).

    Note: Make sure that the axle does not extend beyond either nut.

17. Install the seal guards over the wheel hub, and insert the wheel into the caster fork.

18. Install the caster bolt and tighten the nut fully.

Important: To prevent seal and bearing damage, check the bearing adjustment often. Spin the caster tire. The tire should not spin freely (more than 1 or 2 revolutions) or have any side play. If the wheel spins freely, adjust the torque on the spacer nut until there is a slight amount of drag. Apply another layer of thread-locking compound.

Use the following graphic to identify the engine you have and proceed to the section listed below for service (Figure 51).

Figure 51

1. Kawasaki engine
2. Kohler engine

• For Kawasaki engine maintenance, refer to Servicing a Kawasaki® Engine.

• For Kohler engine maintenance, refer to Servicing a Kohler® Engine.

This section is only for machines with Kawasaki engines. If your engine looks like the one shown in Figure 52, you have a Kawasaki engine.

Important: Refer to your engine owner’s manual for additional maintenance procedures.

Figure 52

Servicing the Engine Oil

Maintenance Service Interval	Maintenance Procedure
Before each use or daily	For Kawasaki engines—check the engine-oil level.
Every 100 hours	For Kawasaki engines—change the engine oil(more often in dirty or dusty conditions).
Every 200 hours	For Kawasaki engines—change the engine-oil filter(more often in dirty or dusty conditions).

Engine-Oil Specifications

Oil Type: Detergent oil (API service SF, SG, SH, SJ, or SL)

Crankcase Capacity:

• Models 72932, 72936, 72949, 72949HD, and 72950—2.3 L (78 fl oz) with a filter change; 2.1 L (71 fl oz) without a filter change

• Model 72952—2.1 L (71 fl oz) with a filter change; 1.8 L (61 fl oz) without a filter change

Viscosity: See the table below.

Figure 54

Note: Although 10W-40 engine oil is recommended for most conditions, you may need to change oil viscosity to accommodate atmospheric conditions. Using 20W-50 engine oil in higher ambient temperatures can reduce oil consumption.

Checking the Engine-Oil Level

Note: Check the oil when the engine is cold.

Important: If you overfill or underfill the engine crankcase with oil and run the engine, you may damage the engine.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

   Note: Ensure that the engine is cool so that the oil has had time to drain into the sump.

3. To keep dirt, grass clippings, etc., out of the engine, clean the area around the oil-fill cap and dipstick before removing it (Figure 55).

Figure 55

Changing the Engine Oil

Note: Dispose of the used oil at a recycling center.

1. Start the engine and let it run for 5 minutes.

   Note: This warms the oil so that it drains better.

2. Park the machine so that the drain side is slightly lower than the opposite side to ensure that the oil drains completely.

3. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO) and engage the parking brake.

4. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

5. Drain the oil from the engine (Figure 56).

   

   Figure 56

6. Slowly pour approximately 80% of the specified oil into the filler tube and slowly add the additional oil to bring it to the Full mark (Figure 57).

   

   Figure 57

7. Start the engine and drive to a flat area.

8. Check the oil level again.

Changing the Engine-Oil Filter

1. Drain the oil from the engine; refer to Changing the Engine Oil.

2. Change the engine-oil filter (Figure 58).

   

   Figure 58

   Note: Ensure that the oil-filter gasket touches the engine, and then turn the oil filter an extra 3/4 turn.

3. Fill the crankcase with the proper type of new oil; refer to Changing the Engine Oil.

Servicing the Spark Plug(s)

Maintenance Service Interval	Maintenance Procedure
Every 100 hours	For Kawasaki engines—replace or clean and gap the spark plug.

Ensure that the air gap between the center and side electrodes is correct before installing the spark plug. Use a spark plug wrench for removing and installing the spark plug and a gapping tool or feeler gauge to check and adjust the air gap. Install a new spark plug if necessary.

Type of Spark Plug: NGK^® BPR4ES or equivalent

Air Gap: 0.75 mm (0.03 inch)

Removing the Spark Plug(s)

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Clean the area around the base of the plug to keep dirt and debris out of the engine.

4. Locate and remove the spark plug(s) as shown in Figure 59.

   

   Figure 59

Checking the Spark Plug(s)

Important: Do not clean the spark plug(s). Always replace the spark plug(s) when it has a black coating, worn electrodes, an oily film, or cracks.

If you see light brown or gray on the insulator, the engine is operating properly. A black coating on the insulator usually means the air cleaner is dirty.

Set the gap to 0.75 mm (0.03 inch).

Figure 60

Installing the Spark Plug(s)

Figure 61

This section is only for machines with Kohler engines. If your engine looks like the one shown in Figure 62, you have a Kohler engine.

Important: Refer to your engine owner’s manual for additional maintenance procedures.

Figure 62

Servicing the Engine Oil

Maintenance Service Interval	Maintenance Procedure
Before each use or daily	For Kohler engines—check the engine-oil level.
Every 100 hours	For Kohler engines—change the engine oil(more often in dirty or dusty conditions).
Every 200 hours	For Kohler engines—change the engine-oil filter(more often in dirty or dusty conditions).

Engine-Oil Specifications

Oil Type: Detergent oil (API service SJ or higher)

Oil Capacity: 1.8 L (61 fl oz) with a filter change; 1.6 L (54 fl oz) without a filter change

Viscosity: See the table below.

Figure 65

Checking the Engine-Oil Level

Note: Check the oil when the engine is cold.

Important: If you overfill or underfill the engine crankcase with oil and run the engine, you may damage the engine.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

   Note: Ensure that the engine is cool so that the oil has had time to drain into the sump.

3. To keep dirt, grass clippings, etc., out of the engine, clean the area around the oil-fill cap and dipstick before removing it (Figure 55).

Figure 66

Changing the Engine Oil

Note: Dispose of the used oil at a recycling center.

1. Start the engine and let it run for 5 minutes.

   Note: This warms the oil so that it drains better.

2. Park the machine so that the drain side is slightly lower than the opposite side to ensure that the oil drains completely.

3. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO) and engage the parking brake.

4. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

5. Drain the oil from the engine (Figure 67).

   

   Figure 67

6. Slowly pour approximately 80% of the specified oil into the filler tube and slowly add the additional oil to bring it to the Full mark (Figure 68).

   

   Figure 68

7. Start the engine and drive to a flat area.

8. Check the oil level again.

Changing the Engine-Oil Filter

Maintenance Service Interval	Maintenance Procedure
Every 200 hours	For Kohler engines—change the engine-oil filter(more often in dirty or dusty conditions).

1. Drain the oil from the engine; refer to Changing the Engine Oil.

2. Change the engine-oil filter (Figure 69).

   

   Figure 69

   Note: Ensure that the oil-filter gasket touches the engine, and then turn the oil filter an extra 3/4 turn.

3. Fill the crankcase with the proper type of new oil; refer to Engine-Oil Specifications.

Servicing the Spark Plug

Maintenance Service Interval	Maintenance Procedure
Every 200 hours	For Kohler engines—check the spark plug(s).
Every 500 hours	For Kohler engines—replace the spark plug(s).

Type: Champion XC12YC

Air Gap: 0.76 mm (0.03 inch)

Removing the Spark Plug

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Clean the area around the base of the plug(s) to keep dirt and debris out of the engine.

4. Locate and remove the spark plug(s) as shown in Figure 70.

   

   Figure 70

Checking the Spark Plug

Important: Do not clean the spark plug(s). Always replace the spark plug(s) when it has a black coating, worn electrodes, an oily film, or cracks.

If you see light brown or gray on the insulator, the engine is operating properly. A black coating on the insulator usually means the air cleaner is dirty.

Set the gap to 0.76 mm (0.03 inch).

Figure 71

Installing the Spark Plug

Figure 72

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the PTO, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Wait for the muffler to cool.

4. If you see any breaks in the screen or welds, replace the arrester.

5. If the screen is plugged, remove the arrester, shake loose particles out of the arrester, and clean the screen with a wire brush (soak the screen in solvent if necessary).

6. Install the arrester on the exhaust outlet.

This machine contains an electronic fuel-injection system. It controls the fuel flow under different operating conditions.

The electronic-control unit (ECU) continuously monitors the operation of the EFI system.

If a problem or fault within the system is detected, the LED status light illuminates. The MIL is the red light located on the right side of the hour meter.

Once the light illuminates, make initial troubleshooting checks; refer to the LED status light section under .

If these checks do not correct the problem, further diagnosis and servicing by an Authorized Service Dealer is necessary.

The fuel filter is located near the engine on the front or rear side of the engine.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Wait for the machine to cool down.

4. Close the fuel-shutoff valve under the seat (Figure 73).

   

   Figure 73

   1. Fuel filter
   2. Hose clamp
   3. Fuel line to the engine
   4. Fuel line from the fuel tank

5. Squeeze the ends of the hose clamps together and slide them away from the filter (Figure 73).

6. Remove the filter from the fuel lines.

7. Install a new filter and move the hose clamps close to the filter (Figure 73).

8. Open the fuel-shutoff valve.

Important: Install the fuel line hoses and secure with plastic ties the same as they were originally installed at the factory to keep the fuel line away from components that can cause fuel line damage.

Do not attempt to service the high-pressure fuel filter. The high-pressure filter is integrated within the fuel-pump module. The fuel filter and other components inside the fuel-pump module are not serviceable.

Important: Do not attempt to open the fuel-pump module.

Ensure that an Authorized Service Dealer replaces the fuel-pump module with the high-pressure fuel filter.

Do not attempt to drain the fuel tank. Ensure that an Authorized Service Dealer drains the fuel tank and services any components of the fuel system.

The electrical system is protected by fuses. It requires no maintenance, however, if a fuse blows check the component/circuit for a malfunction or short.

The fuses are located on the console to the right of the seat (Figure 77).

1. To replace the fuses, pull out on the fuse to remove it.

2. Install a new fuse (Figure 77).

   

   Figure 77

   1. Optional accessory (15 A)
   2. Charge (25 A)
   3. PTO (10 A)
   4. Main (25 A)
   5. Console

The electrical system is protected by fuses. It requires no maintenance, however, if a fuse blows check the component/circuit for a malfunction or short. The fuses are located on the console to the right of the seat (Figure 78).

To replace the fuses, remove the cover, pull out on the fuse to remove it, and install a new fuse.

Figure 78

1. Auxiliary, 15 A
2. Main, 20 A
3. Start relay
4. Open

1. Check and clean corrosion from the battery terminals before jump-starting. Ensure that the connections are tight.

   Caution

   Corrosion or loose connections can cause unwanted electrical voltage spikes at any time during the jump-starting procedure.

   Do not attempt to jump-start the machine with loose or corroded battery terminals, or damage to the engine or EFI may occur.

   Danger

   Jump-starting a weak battery that is cracked or frozen or has a low electrolyte level or an open/shorted battery cell can cause an explosion, resulting in serious personal injury.

   Do not jump-start a weak battery if these conditions exist.

2. Make sure that the booster battery is a good and fully charged lead-acid battery at 12.6 V or greater.

   Note: Use properly sized jumper cables with short lengths to reduce voltage drop between systems. Make sure that the cables are color coded or labeled for the correct polarity.

   Caution

   Connecting the jumper cables incorrectly (wrong polarity) can immediately damage the EFI system.

   Be certain of battery-terminal polarity and jumper-cable polarity when hooking up the batteries.

   Warning

   Batteries contain acid and produce explosive gases.

   • Shield your eyes and face from the batteries at all times.

   • Do not lean over the batteries.

   Note: Ensure that the vent caps are tight and level. Place a damp cloth, if available, over any vent caps on both batteries. Also ensure that the machines do not touch and that both electrical systems are off and at the same rated system voltage. These instructions are for negative ground systems only.

3. Connect the positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the discharged battery that is wired to the starter or solenoid as shown in Figure 79.

   

   Figure 79

   1. Positive (+) cable on discharged battery
   2. Positive (+) cable on booster battery
   3. Negative (–) cable on the booster battery
   4. Negative (–) cable on the engine block
   5. Booster battery
   6. Discharged battery
   7. Engine block

4. Connect the other end of the positive cable to the positive terminal of the booster battery.

5. Connect the black negative (–) cable to the other terminal (negative) of the booster battery.

6. Make the final connection on the engine block of the stalled machine (not to the negative battery post), away from the battery, and stand back (Figure 80).

   

   Figure 80

   1. Engine block
   2. Negative (–) cable

7. Start the machine and remove the cables in the reverse order of connection (disconnect the negative cable from the engine block first).

Inspect the seat belt for wear, cuts, and proper operation of the retractor and buckle. Replace the seat belt if it is damaged.

• Check that both the mounting hardware and the knobs are in good working condition.

• Make sure that the knobs are fully engaged with the roll bar in the raised position.

  Note: The upper hoop of the roll bar may need to be pushed forward or pulled rearward to fully engage both knobs (Figure 81 and Figure 82).

Figure 81

1. Roll bar in the upright position
2. Roll-bar knob in the latched position
3. Pull the roll-bar knob out and rotate it 90 degrees.
4. Rotate the roll-bar knob 90 degrees.
5. Roll-bar knob in the unlatched position
6. Roll bar in the folded position

Figure 82

1. Engaged
2. Partially engaged—do not operate with the roll bar in this position.

1. Disengage the blade-control switch (PTO).

2. Drive to an open flat area, move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position.

3. Move the throttle midway between the FAST and SLOW positions.

4. Move both motion-control levers all the way forward until they both hit the stops in the T-slot.

5. Check which way the machine tracks.

6. Engage the parking brake, shut off the engine, and remove the key.

7. Adjust the stop plates as needed.

   • If the machine tracks to the right, loosen the bolts and adjust the left stop plate rearward on the left T-slot until the machine tracks straight (Figure 83).

   • If the machine tracks to the left, loosen the bolts and adjust the right stop plate rearward on the right T-slot until the machine tracks straight (Figure 83).

8. Tighten the stop plate (Figure 83).

   

   Figure 83

   Left control lever shown

   1. Control lever
   2. Bolt
   3. Stop plate

Maintain the air pressure in the rear tires at 90 kPa (13 psi). Uneven tire pressure can cause uneven cut. Check the tires when they are cold to get the most accurate pressure reading.

Figure 84

Check and torque the wheel lug nuts to 122 to 129 N∙m (90 to 95 ft-lb).

Check and ensure that the torque of the slotted nut is 286 to 352 N∙m (211 to 260 ft-lb).

Note: Do not use anti-seize compound on wheel hub.

Figure 85

1. Slotted nut

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Remove the dust cap from caster and tighten the locknut (Figure 86).

4. Tighten the locknut until the spring washers are flat, and then back off a 1/4 turn to properly set the preload on the bearings (Figure 86).

   Important: Make sure that the spring washers are installed correctly as shown in Figure 86.

5. Install the dust cap (Figure 86).

   

   Figure 86

   1. Spring washers
   2. Locknut
   3. Dust cap

Some later model year units have been built with clutches that contain a brake shim. When the clutch brake has worn to the point where the clutch no longer engages consistently, you can remove the shim to extend the clutch life.

Figure 87

1. Armature
2. Field shell
3. Rotor
4. Brake-mounting bolt
5. Brake spacer
6. Re-gap shim
7. Brake pole

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Using an air compressor, blow out any debris from under the brake pole and around the brake spacers (Figure 88).

   

   Figure 88

4. Check the condition of the wire-harness leads, connectors, and terminals.

   Note: Clean or repair as necessary.

5. Verify that 12 V is present at the clutch connector when the blade-control switch (PTO) switch is engaged.

6. Measure the gap between the rotor and armature. If the gap is greater than 1 mm (0.04 inch), do the following steps:

   1. Loosen both brake-mounting bolts 1/2 to 1 full turn as shown in Figure 89.

      Note: Do not remove the brake pole from the field shell/armature. The brake pole has worn to match the armature and needs to continue to match after you remove the shim to ensure proper brake torque.

      

      Figure 89

      1. Brake-mounting bolt

   2. Using needle-nose pliers, or by hand, hold the tab and remove the shim (Figure 90).

      Note: Do not discard the shim until the clutch is functioning properly.

      

      Figure 90

      1. Shim

   3. Using a pneumatic line, blow out any debris from under the brake pole and around the brake spacers.

   4. Torque each bolt (M6 x 1) to 12.3 to 13.7 N∙m (9.5 to 10.5 ft-lb).

   5. Using a 0.25 mm (0.01 inch) thick feeler gauge, verify that a gap is present between the rotor and the armature face on both sides of the brake pole as shown in Figure 91 and Figure 92.

      Note: Due to the way the rotor and the armature faces wear (peaks and valleys) it is sometimes difficult to measure the gap accurately.

      

      Figure 91

      1. Feeler gauge
      

      Figure 92

      1. Feeler gauge

      • If the gap is less than 0.25 mm (0.01 inch), then install the shim.

      • If the gap is sufficient, proceed to the safety check in step 6.

   6. Perform the following safety check:

      1. Sit on the seat and start the engine.

      2. Make sure that the blades do not engage with the blade-control switch (PTO) in the OFF position, and that the clutch is disengaged.

         If the clutch does not disengage, install the shim again.

      3. Engage and disengage the blade-control switch (PTO) 10 consecutive times to ensure that the clutch is functioning properly.

Remove any buildup of grass, dirt, or other debris from the oil cooler and the engine screen (Figure 93).

Figure 93

Remove any buildup of grass, dirt, or other debris from the engine screen. This helps ensure adequate cooling and correct engine speed and reduces the possibility of overheating and mechanical damage to the engine (Figure 90).

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Remove the air-intake screen, the recoil starter, and the fan housing (Figure 94).

4. Clean the debris and grass from the engine parts.

5. Install the air-intake screen, the recoil starter, and the fan housing (Figure 94).

   

   Figure 94

   1. Engine guard
   2. Engine air-intake screen
   3. Bolt
   4. Fan housing
   5. Screw

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Move the seat forward.

4. Clean the debris and grass from the hydraulic-unit shrouds (Figure 95).

5. Position the seat.

   

   Figure 95

   1. Hydraulic-unit shrouds

Check to ensure that parking brake is adjusted properly. This procedure must be followed after the first 100 hours or when a brake component has been removed or replaced.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Raise the rear of the machine up and support the machine with jack stands.

4. Remove the rear tires from the machine.

5. Remove any debris from the brake area.

6. Release the drive wheels; refer to Using the Drive-Wheel-Release Valves.

7. Disengage the parking brake.

8. Remove the spring clevis pin from the rear linkage and caliper (Figure 96).

   

   Figure 96

   1. Rear linkage
   2. Jam nut
   3. Spring clevis pin
   4. Caliper
   5. Wheel hub

9. Loosen the jam nut on the rear linkage.

10. Push the caliper lever forward with finger pressure until the brake pad contacts the hub rotor.

11. Adjust the rear linkage until the spring clevis pin can be inserted in the hole in the caliper lever.

    Note: To lengthen the linkage, rotate the clevis 1 turn outward.

12. Tighten the jam nut on the rear linkage (Figure 96).

13. Ensure that the wheel hub moves freely between the caliper brake pads.

14. Repeats steps 8 to 13 for the right side.

15. Rotate the drive wheel release handle to the operating position; refer to Using the Drive-Wheel-Release Valves.

16. Install the rear tires and torque the lug nuts to 129 N∙m (95 ft-lb).

17. Remove the jack stands.

Replace the belt if it is worn. The signs of a worn belt include squealing while the belt is rotating; the blades slipping while cutting grass; and frayed edges, burn marks, and cracks on the belt.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Lower the mower to the 76 mm (3 inch) height of cut.

4. Remove the belt covers (Figure 97).

   

   Figure 97

   1. Push the tab down.
   2. Remove the belt cover.

5. Use a ratchet in the square hole in the idler arm to remove tension on the idler spring (Figure 98).

6. Remove the belt from the mower-deck pulleys.

7. Remove the belt guide on the spring-loaded idler arm (Figure 98).

8. Remove the existing belt.

9. Install the new belt around the mower pulleys and the clutch pulley under the engine (Figure 98).

   

   Figure 98

   1. Clutch pulley
   2. Mower belt
   3. Spring-loaded idler pulley
   4. Ratchet
   5. Square hole in the idler arm for the ratchet
   6. Idler-grease fitting
   7. Belt guide

10. Install the belt guide on the idler arm (Figure 98).

11. Using the ratchet in the square hole, install the idler spring (Figure 98).

    Note: Make sure that the spring ends are seated in the anchor grooves.

12. Install the belt covers (Figure 99).

    

    Figure 99

    1. Position the belt cover.
    2. Slide the belt cover under the side catches.
    3. Ensure that the tab is under the metal catch.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Remove the mower belt; refer to Replacing the Mower Belt for Side-Discharge Mower Decks or Replacing the Mower Belt for Rear-Discharge Mower Decks.

4. Raise the machine and support it with jack stands (Figure 104).

   

   Figure 104

   1. Idler pulley
   2. Clutch pulley
   3. Pump-drive belt
   4. Right hydraulic-pump pulley
   5. Left hydraulic-pump pulley
   6. Square hole in the idler arm
   7. Idler spring

5. Use a ratchet in the square hole in the idler arm to remove the idler spring (Figure 104).

6. Unhook the idler spring from the frame (Figure 104).

7. Remove the belt from the hydraulic-unit-drive pulleys and the engine pulley.

8. Install the new belt around engine pulley and the 2 drive pulleys.

9. Using a ratchet in the square hole in the idler arm, install the idler spring to the frame (Figure 104).

10. Install the mower belt; refer to Replacing the Mower Belt for Side-Discharge Mower Decks or Replacing the Mower Belt for Rear-Discharge Mower Decks.

There are 2 height positions for the control levers—high and low. Remove the bolts to adjust the height for the operator.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Loosen the bolts and flange nuts installed in the levers (Figure 105).

4. Align the levers in the front-to-rear position by bringing the levers together to the NEUTRAL position, and slide them until they are aligned, then tighten the bolts (Figure 106).

   

   Figure 105

   1. Bolt (2)
   2. Handle
   3. Control lever
   4. Nut (2)
   

   Figure 106

5. If the ends of the levers hit against each other, refer to Adjusting the Motion-Control Neutral-Lock Pivot.

6. Repeat to adjust the control levers.

Located on either side of the machine, below the seat, are the pump-control linkages. Rotating the end nut with a 1/2-inch deep socket wrench allows fine tuning adjustments so that the machine does not move in neutral. Any adjustments should be made for neutral positioning only.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), move the motion-control levers to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Push the deck-lift pedal, remove the height-of-cut pin, and lower the mower deck to the ground

4. Raise the rear of the machine up and support it with jack stands (or equivalent support) just high enough to allow the drive wheels to turn freely.

5. Remove the electrical connection from the seat safety switch, located under the bottom cushion of the seat.

   Note: The switch is a part of the seat assembly.

6. Temporarily install a jumper wire across the terminals in the connector of the main wire harness.

7. Start the engine, run it at full throttle, and disengage the parking brake.

   Note: Before starting the engine, ensure that the parking brake is engaged and that the motion-control levers are out. You do not have to be in the seat.

8. Run the machine at least 5 minutes with the drive levers at full forward speed to bring the hydraulic fluid up to the operating temperature.

   Note: The motion-control levers must be in neutral while you are making any adjustments.

9. Bring the motion-control levers into the NEUTRAL position.

10. Adjust the pump-control-rod lengths by rotating the double nuts on the rod in the appropriate direction until the wheels slightly creep in reverse (Figure 107).

    

    Figure 107

    1. Double nuts

11. Move the motion-control levers to the REVERSE position and while applying slight pressure to the lever, allow the reverse-indicator springs to bring the levers back to neutral.

    Note: The wheels should stop turning or slightly creep in reverse.

12. Shut off the machine.

13. Remove the jumper wire from the wire harness and plug the connector into the seat switch.

14. Remove the jack stands.

15. Raise the mower deck and install the height-of-cut pin.

16. Check and ensure that the machine does not creep in neutral with the parking brake disengaged.

You can adjust the top damper-mounting bolt to obtain the desired motion-control lever resistance. Refer to Figure 108 for mounting options.

Figure 108

Right Motion Control Shown

1. Torque the locknut to 23 N∙m (17 ft-lb). The bolt must protrude past the end of the locknut after torquing.
2. Most resistance (firmest feel)
3. Damper
4. Medium resistance (medium feel)
5. Least resistance (softest feel)

You can adjust the flanged nut to obtain the desired motion-control lever resistance when moving it to the NEUTRAL-LOCK position. See Figure 109 for adjustment options.

1. Loosen the jam nut.

2. Tighten or loosen the flanged nut to the desired feel.

   • For more resistance, tighten the flanged nut.

   • For less resistance, loosen the flanged nut

3. Tighten the jam nut.

   

   Figure 109

   1. Flanged nut
   2. Jam nut

Hydraulic-Fluid Type: Toro^® HYPR-OIL^™ 500 hydraulic fluid or Mobil^® 1 15W-50.

Important: Use the specified fluid. Other fluids could damage the hydraulic system.

Each Hydraulic-System Fluid Capacity: 1.5 L (52 fl oz) per side with filter change

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Allow the engine and the hydraulic system to cool for 10 minutes.

   Note: The oil level on the dipstick is incorrect when the oil is checked and the machine is hot.

4. Move the seat forward.

5. Clean the area around the dipsticks of hydraulic-system reservoirs (Figure 110).

6. Remove 1 dipstick from the hydraulic reservoir (Figure 110).

7. Wipe the dipstick off and thread the dipstick into the reservoir.

8. Remove the dipstick and look at the end (Figure 110).

   Important: Do not overfill the hydraulic units with fluid, as damage may occur. Do not run the machine with fluid below the add mark.

9. If the fluid level is at the add mark, slowly pour only enough fluid into the hydraulic reservoir to raise the level to the full or H line.

10. Install the dipstick.

11. Repeat the procedure for the opposite dipstick.

    

    Figure 110

    Either dipstick is used in the machine

    1. Full
    2. Add
    3. H —means high level
    4. Dipstick locations under seat

To replace the hydraulic fluid, the filters need to be removed. Replace both at the same time; refer to Hydraulic-Fluid Specifications for fluid specifications.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Raise the machine and support it with jack stands (Figure 111).

   

   Figure 111

   1. Jack stands

4. Remove both the mower belt and the pump-drive belt; refer to Replacing the Mower Belt and Replacing the Hydraulic Pump-Drive Belt.

   Note: This prevents fluid from getting on the belts.

5. Place a drain pan under the filter, remove the old filter, and wipe the surface clean (Figure 112).

   

   Figure 112

   Bottom view of the machine

   1. Filter locations
   2. Hydraulic filter

6. Apply a thin coat of hydraulic fluid to the rubber gasket on the replacement filter (Figure 112).

7. Install the replacement hydraulic filter.

8. Install the pump-drive belt and the mower belt.

9. Remove the jack stands and lower the machine (Figure 111).

10. Add fluid to the hydraulic reservoir and check for any leaks.

11. Clean up any spilled fluid.

12. Start the engine and let it run for about 2 minutes to purge air from the system.

13. Shut off the engine and check for leaks.

14. Check the fluid level while the fluid is cold.

15. If required, add fluid to the hydraulic reservoir.

    Note: Do not overfill.

To ensure a superior quality of cut, keep the blades sharp. For convenient sharpening and replacement, you may want to keep extra blades on hand.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Check the tire pressure in the drive tires; refer to Checking the Tire Pressure.

4. Position the transport lock in the latching position.

5. Push the deck-lift pedal all the way forward and the deck latches at the 14 cm (5-1/2 inch) transport position (Figure 123).

   

   Figure 123

   1. Deck-lift pedal
   2. Height-of-cut pin
   3. Transport lock

6. Insert the height-adjustment pin into the 7.6 cm (3 inches) cutting-height location.

7. Release the transport lock and allow the deck to lower to the cutting height.

8. For side-discharge machines, raise the discharge chute.

9. On both sides of the deck, measure from the level surface to the front tip of the blade (Postion A) as shown in Figure 124.

   Note: The measurement should read 7.6 mm (3 inches)

   

   Figure 124

   1. 7.6 cm (3 inch) at position A is correct
   2. 8.3 cm (3-1/4 inch) at position B is correct
   3. Measure here from the blade tip to the hard surface
   4. Measure at position A and B on both sides

10. Fine-tune the adjustment nut on the front deck-lift assembly by turning it (Figure 125 or Figure 126).

    Note: To increase the height, turn the adjustment nut clockwise; to decrease the height, turn the nut counterclockwise.

    Note: If the front deck links do not have enough adjustment to achieve accurate cut height, you can use the single-point adjustment to gain more adjustment.

    

    Figure 125

    5000 Series Machines

    1. Adjustment nut
    2. Jam nut
    3. Rear deck adjustment
    4. Front deck adjustment
    

    Figure 126

    6000 Series Machines

    1. Adjustment nut
    2. Jam nut
    3. Rear deck adjustment
    4. Front deck adjustment

11. To adjust the single-point system, loosen the 2 bolts at the bottom of the height-of-cut plate (Figure 127).

    Note: For rear-discharge machines, the mower deck is attached in the back holes at the factory. Refer to Figure 128. If needed, use the front holes for further adjustment when leveling the mower deck.

    

    Figure 127

    1. Bolts at the bottom of the height-of-cut plate
    

    Figure 128

    Rear-Discharge Machines Only

    1. Mower deck
    2. Front hole
    3. Back hole

12. If the deck is too low, tighten the single-point-adjustment bolt by rotating it clockwise. If the deck is too high, loosen the single-point-adjustment bolt by rotating it counterclockwise (Figure 129).

    Note: Loosen or tighten the single-point adjustment bolt enough to move the height-of-cut plate mounting bolts at least 1/3 the length of the available travel in their slots. This regains some up and down adjustment on each of the 4 deck links.

    

    Figure 129

    1. Single-point adjustment bolt

13. Tighten the 2 bolts at the bottom of the height-of-cut plate (Figure 127).

    Note: In most conditions, the back blade tip should be adjusted 6.4 mm (1/4 inch) higher than the front.

14. Torque the 2 bolts to 37 to 45 N∙m (27 to 33 ft-lb).

15. On both sides of the deck, measure from the level surface to the back tip of the blade (postion B) as shown in Figure 124.

    Note: The measurement should read 8.3 cm (3-1/4 inches)

16. Fine tune the screw adjuster by turning it to get 8.3 mm (3-1/4 inches) height (Figure 126).

    To increase the height, turn the adjustment nut clockwise; to decrease, turn counterclockwise.

17. Measure until all 4 sides are the correct height.

18. Tighten all of the nuts on the deck-lift-arm assemblies.

19. For side-discharge machines, lower the discharge chute.

Lock out the spring-loaded deck arms before servicing or removing the mower deck.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Place the height adjustment pin in the 7.6 cm (3 inch) cutting-height location.

   Note: This locks the deck-lift arms in the lowest position when the deck is removed and the stored energy in the deck spring is released.

4. Remove the belt covers.

5. Lift up the floor pan and insert a ratchet into the square hole in the deck idler (Figure 130 or Figure 131).

6. Rotate the deck idler clockwise, lift up on the belt-guide tab (rear-discharge machines only), and remove the mower belt (Figure 130 or Figure 131).

   

   Figure 130

   Side-Discharge Machines

   1. Clutch pulley
   2. Mower belt
   3. Spring-loaded idler pulley
   4. Ratchet
   5. Square hole in the idler arm for the ratchet
   6. Idler grease fitting
   7. Belt guide
   

   Figure 131

   Rear-Discharge Machines

   1. Clutch pulley
   2. Mower belt
   3. Spring-loaded idler pulley
   4. Ensure that the belt-guide tab hits against the pivot hub.
   5. Belt guide
   6. Spring-loaded idler pulley
   7. Square hole in the idler arm for the ratchet
   8. Spring

7. Remove and retain the hardware on both sides of the deck as shown in Figure 132.

   

   Figure 132

   1. Right stabilizer
   2. Deck strut (right side shown)
   3. Remove the shoulder bolt and nut.
   4. Remove the shoulder bolt and nut.

8. Raise the deck struts and secure them in the raised position.

9. Slide the deck out to the right side of the machine.

1. Remove the locknut, bolt, spring, and spacer holding the deflector to the pivot brackets (Figure 133).

2. Remove the damaged or worn grass deflector (Figure 133).

   

   Figure 133

   1. Bolt
   2. Spacer
   3. Locknut
   4. Spring
   5. Spring installed
   6. Grass deflector
   7. J-hook end of spring

3. Place the spacer and the spring onto grass deflector.

4. Place 1 J-hook end of the spring behind the deck edge.

   Note: Make sure that 1 J-hook end of the spring is installed behind the deck edge before installing the bolt as shown in Figure 133.

5. Install the bolt and the nut.

6. Place 1 J-hook end of the spring around the grass deflector (Figure 133).

   Important: The grass deflector must be able to rotate. Lift the deflector up to the full open position and ensure that it rotates into the full down position.

1. Park the machine on a level surface, disengage the blade-control switch (PTO), and engage the parking brake.

2. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating position.

3. Raise the mower deck to the TRANSPORT position.

Engine oil, batteries, hydraulic fluid, and engine coolant are pollutants to the environment. Dispose of these according to your state and local regulations.